What do you look for in your clubs?

I wouldn't buy a club from our local shop for anything, but they are jerks. I'd rather spend it at Dicks or online.
 
You walk into a big box store and you start looking around. What catches your eye? Once the visual is taken care of what do you look for in your clubs? Is it ball flight? Is it workability? Forgiveness? Distance? Are you a numbers person and must get on the monitor? Or are you shooing on price?
I look for irons that are somewhat classic looking but still have somewhat of a cavity and a mid-width sole with a slight amount of offset. Then I like to test the clubs on a launch monitor because at the end of the day, the monitor never lies. Price isnt really factor for me.

Now you have purchased your club and you head to the course. What happens if it doesn't do what you wanted? Do you give up? Get lessons? Buy a new club?
I typically give myself at least a few rounds with a new club before I expect results with it. I find that with any new club that it takes me a while to adjust to it. If the club worked well on a monitor and doesnt work on the course, its almost always me. A club doesnt suddenly fail on you once you get on the course. I feel that we put pressure and expectations on ourselves after spending all this money on a new club and that causes tension and pressure in our swing, which can be very harmful to our game.
 
First thing I look for is "how does it set up at address". If it does not give me confidence when standing over a shot, then I move right on to the next club. Next thing I look for is accuracy/forgiveness. I am not one to shape my shots, so I would prefer that my club has a good amount of forgiveness. Next it would be feel. If I find two clubs that are tied in the first two categories, I go with the one that feels the best. Last for me would be distance. I am a fairly long hitter, so I would not necessarily need irons that are geared towards extra distance. Also, I have a rather high ball flight, so I don't generally need extra assistance in getting the ball in the air.

In the end, it all comes down to price. I often try to find last-years top equipment discounted once the new lines start hitting the shelves. That is unless one of the newer sets of clubs really bowls me over.

Next big purchase for me is irons, so I will be sure to post an update of how and why I selected the set that I end up getting.
 
For me, the look is important somewhat. I like irons that are pretty classic looking. Nothing too busy. This is pretty much how I feel about all clubs, but I'm starting to go away from that a little bit with clubs like the RBZ 3W, Classic and Mashie FWs. Though, the old school look appeals to me so it isn't too much of a stretch with the CG stuff. I've only ever been fully fit for a set of irons, but I usually at least try to get simulator numbers against my current clubs. Numbers absolutely trump looks, but how a club looks to me affects comfort and confidence on the course a little.

Once on the course, I give things a few rounds to work out. I've only ever had one club that I did this with that didn't pan out. It was a driver that I just never got comfortable with.

Now all that said, I have made a number of purchases without hitting first, or received gifts without trying. Sometimes it works (Betti SS11, J40 wedges) and sometimes it doesn't (Callaway JAWS, insert ebay'd driver here).
 
Not to bash you but I am amazed at how anyone can buy a club "by how it looked in a magazine" or on a website. You know they have these great places where you can see stuff first hand and hold them and even ........hit them. It's called a local shop. It's the newest and greatest thing. And buying from them helps your local economy and has a better chance of getting back to you!

Hope you know I'm just bustin' your chops.

I would love to buy from a local shop. WE DON"T HAVE ONE WITHIN 200 MILES! Our local pro sho has a very minimal amount of product. The carry a bit of Taylormade (won't buy), Nike (won't buy), cleveland and ping. Everything is marked up so much and i don't feel like getting bent over that much. Case in point, they have a cleveland classic and it was priced at $350. Everyone knows you can buy them for $150-$200.

Buying clubs based on pictures isn't ideal but what choice do we have? I can tell you, it really sucks to drop $400 on a driver you've never hit. I would love to test some Piretti, Bettinardi, SeeMore putters but I don't know them. If you think about it, i have $1600 in gamer clubs in my bag i never tested. That's not including driver and 4 vokey i carry. If you don't like the club, you buys something else, and try to sell the club on eBay and minimize the loss. It's maybe why i'm brand loyal and won't use certain OEMs.
 
The only thing I look for in a golf club is a balanced feel. If this is correct then everything else falls into place.
 
Feel the club.

I don't think about forgiveness, workability or distance when I check out clubs, it's all about the feel, how it feels when I hold it, swing it, and hit it. If I can't feel the love from the club, I'll leave it be. At the point when the feel has been found, I start to think about details, but at that point it's just making the club feel even better. Looks are of course a big part, it's the first contact...if it's ugly, I cant find the feeling, but sometimes even the prettiest club can feel dull and unexciting. If I find a beautiful club, and we have feelings, I can adjust the trajectory and some other things by changing lie angels, grip, (seldom flex, I feel up only stiffs) or even the loft. It's all in the fingertips. I love my clubs.
 
Great idea for a thread
After the looks are taken care of I go over to the sim and the club just has to feel right in my hands and when I hit the ball it has to feel good off the face and I don't want it to be shorter than my old irons. It needs to be smooth through the entire swing and have a high ball flight. Even though I buy in winter and don't get accurate distance and ball flight on the range when spring does come around and I get to the course with the new sticks I have yet to have a club not work for me so I have yet to come into the decision of sell it or return it or keep them as a back up.

In short
Smooth
Confidence
Distance
Overall feel
 
Feel and Looks almost totally. I have been fit before and sometimes haven't been fit, but it doesn't seem to matter, as when I am fit it is always "normal", with no change in lie or length. I put an iron (or wood) in my hand and give it a few waggles. For irons, I will waggle a long, mid, and short iron. If the club feels like it fits, like it "was made for me", then it will wind up in my bag. No matter what I buy, there is always a break-in period, and it takes a few rounds, but it almost always works out. An hour on a simulator with a new club before I buy it doesn't tell me anything. If I could try and buy (for a 3-4 week period, maybe I would do that, but then that is a waste of time. Buy what feels go, then "Commit" to them!
 
When I walk into a store and start looking, the first thing I look for is chrome or brushed steel, although I enjoy the looks of clubs with a little colorI prefer a full chrome club with just the logo and number coloring. Next is a small clubhead, I love a compact head with a narrow sole and as close to zero offset as possible. For me it's less margin for error lol, I want to know where my misses are. As far as functionality is concerned I really like a mid trajectory and that's my starting point, I can get it high if I want to or knock it down when needed, but a boring mid trajectory is my preferance. From there I like the TTDG S-300, it's a shaft I know and like and I have a ton of faith in it. I'm pretty boring as a golfer, I don't change gear often, I'm not overly worried about distance, and I love the confidence I get when standing over an Iron I like, you can feel the shot before you hit it.
 
Lots of great answers and some suspect ones as well...I kid of course.

How many but based on reviews from your fellow THPrs? I know I'm influence by some of the reviews and interactions I've had on and off THP. The opinions in this forum are some of the most accurate in the industry. Outside if the experts that design and create the clubs. I trust the reviews I have read on here. Not everything will work for me but it will work for someone.
 
Lots of great answers and some suspect ones as well...I kid of course.

How many but based on reviews from your fellow THPrs? I know I'm influence by some of the reviews and interactions I've had on and off THP. The opinions in this forum are some of the most accurate in the industry. Outside if the experts that design and create the clubs. I trust the reviews I have read on here. Not everything will work for me but it will work for someone.

That definitely plays a role for me. See the witb sig. :D No way I would have been exposed to some of those clubs if not for THP.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

EDIT for typo. Dog? Really Samsung? LOL
 
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Are you saying the 'feel' of holding the club in your hands?

No, I mean the feel off the face and also the weight of the club, a lot to do with shaft I know, but a light club head doesn't do it for me.
 
Seeing as I don't get to hit many clubs since I'm a lefty, most of it comes from reviews from THPers or aesthetics. Also price. I can't afford to pay full retail price for clubs, so I usually go used or if I can find something marked down for a good price I'll snag it.
 
Hi I'm Justin and I'm a club ho.

It's a feel thing for me. I have to hit the club to know how I feel about it. So I buy and sell clubs all the time, just trying new things to see if they work for me.
 
Woods: feel, sound, and look are paramount importance, price doesn't matter to me too much if I really like it. On the course as long as its not ballooning on me everything else is under my control, and I'll work on it. Forgiveness on toe hits also important since that's my main miss.

Irons: I must have a classic thin topline iron. Iron price has to be moderate. And again its all feel and must have dynamic gold s300. Forgiveness is not a priority BC I want a blade or muscle back type iron. I want instant feedback so I can correct the problem.

tapp tapp tapp tappatalk
 
Woods: feel, sound, and look are paramount importance, price doesn't matter to me too much if I really like it. On the course as long as its not ballooning on me everything else is under my control, and I'll work on it. Forgiveness on toe hits also important since that's my main miss.

Irons: I must have a classic thin topline iron. Iron price has to be moderate. And again its all feel and must have dynamic gold s300. Forgiveness is not a priority BC I want a blade or muscle back type iron. I want instant feedback so I can correct the problem.

tapp tapp tapp tappatalk

I'm curious why you feel you can't get forgiveness and instant feedback from a non-blade or muscle back
 
I would have to say initial appearance is big and what catches my eye. Muscleback blades have always drawn me in. I'm a traditionalist
 
Boy where to start, my tastes are pretty specific...

Driver - head combination that suits my desired launch, and plays forgiving. I do a lot of experimenting here.
Driving 3W - Use this on short, tight courses - deep face, titanium. I'm pretty much limited to TEE, Adams and Taylormade here.
Woods - I prefer shallow face to flight and get off the turf easy. Pair this with a low launch shaft.
Hybrids - I look for small heads, good heal toe relief, and rounded sole/camber.
Irons - Thin sole, thin top line. I have since ventured into something more forgiving only 2 weeks ago to practice with this offseason. See how I like it.
Wedges - I think this is the most important club people never think about. I play high bounce, and C sole on my 54* and 60*. Gives me a lot of versatility from the 40yd - 100yd range. I am always testing new grinds, but until I change my approach and technique C sole it is.
 
I'm curious why you feel you can't get forgiveness and instant feedback from a non-blade or muscle back

thin cavity back I can do as well should state that as well (cleveland 588's), since that's what my current irons are.

for example I20's are very soft and forgiving but I couldn't instantly feel misshits.
 
thin cavity back I can do as well should state that as well (cleveland 588's), since that's what my current irons are.

for example I20's are very soft and forgiving but I couldn't instantly feel misshits.
I somewhat agree. I'm experimenting with the Razr X tours I bought earlier this year and I can't tell if every shot has been flush, or if it's due to it being a forgiving iron. Toe shots even come off as full shots.

My primary set is an Adams Pro gold and has the typical players iron characteristics: thin topline, thin sole, shallow cavity. I can tell when I hit the ball a hairline thick.

I haven't played in GI iron in 5+ years and forgot what the difference in feel is.
 
I somewhat agree. I'm experimenting with the Razr X tours I bought earlier this year and I can't tell if every shot has been flush, or if it's due to it being a forgiving iron. Toe shots even come off as full shots.

My primary set is an Adams Pro gold and has the typical players iron characteristics: thin topline, thin sole, shallow cavity. I can tell when I hit the ball a hairline thick.

I haven't played in GI iron in 5+ years and forgot what the difference in feel is.

Exactly. Although I do love the look of RAZR black irons , not too big not too thick not too offset and black. Good feel overall and more feedback than most irons in that class for me. I could game it.

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