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Reshafting my irons

Nippon Shafts
SW

SW

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For about 3 months I've been mulling over new irons and I've tried out countless different models, however I think I'm going to take some good advice and stick with what I have.

That being said after swinging all those irons I've come to the conclusion that I would be well off to put new shafts in my slingshots and truly get something that fits me best. Went through some online fittings today to help narrow it down a bit, came back with two choices from true temper the dynamic gold hl and rifle 5.0. I would also like to try the kbs hi rev.

Made a few calls today to set something up and ran into a wall, just about everyone wants around $20 per club to install whatever the new shafts that work best for me. Added up with grips it comes to around $60ish a club on the high end.

Is that charge inline with the average? I ask because after seeing JB pop a head off in a matter of minutes it just seems high to me.


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If you mean 20$ just in labor yes that is very high. Atleast for here. I think the local guys here charge 4$ a club?
 
Yes, just labor. The testing is free since I'm buying shafts.

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Re shafting irons is not rocket science but to get the swing weights correct and making sure you have the heads and new shafts prepped does take some time. I honestly think just about anyone can do it as long as you have a few of the required tools.
 
That sounds way more expensive than my reshafting experience. I think it cost me around $25 per club for pulling and installation. I would shop around man.
 
Let's see If i read this right, $20 to pull old shaft-then prep new shaft,cut to correct length,not long or short but spot on.Then install ferrule and dry fit club with grip to check for swingweight.Once that is correct then epoxy head onto shaft with ferrule and tip weight if needed.Then tape and install grip once epoxy had dried then clean up ferrule to smooth up edges.$20 doesn't sound too much for a job spot on,but $20 is high for someone to just install shaft with no regards to swingweight and correct final length.

Now, if this was my job,Shaft would be spine/aligned as well.

Now, you must do this correct for all 8 -11 irons.This is where precision comes into play on having all clubs SW correctly and having the correct flow for lengths.I'm a firm believer on you get what you pay for.
 
^
$20 to remove old and install new. Nothing more nothing less.

I will have gone through the fitting process prior which will provide specs for the shafts that best suit me.

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$20 per club sounds like a lot. I had my driver reshafted - which of course included a grip install - for $10 labor at Golf Galaxy a couple of years ago.
 
SW FLA said:
^
$20 to remove old and install new. Nothing more nothing less.

I will have gone through the fitting process prior which will provide specs for the shafts that best suit me.

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Click to expand...

Ok, why pay for an incomplete job?Wouldn't you want your clubs to have the correct SW?Proper lengths being consistent all 1/2" apart and not one 3/8" longer or 5/8"? Or am I reading too much into this? Sure IMHO,anybody can pull and install shafts,but can they guarantee the job being done correctly?
 
BigLeftyinAZ said:
Ok, why pay for an incomplete job?Wouldn't you want your clubs to have the correct SW?Proper lengths being consistent all 1/2" apart and not one 3/8" longer or 5/8"? Or am I reading too much into this? Sure IMHO,anybody can pull and install shafts,but can they guarantee the job being done correctly?
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Hence the fitting to provide the complete specs for the installer (complete being the word used by the fitter in describing the process to me). I'm not complaining about paying for getting the work done, I just do not want to over pay for something that honestly is totally foreign to me.

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SW FLA said:
Hence the fitting to provide the complete specs for the installer (complete being the word used by the fitter in describing the process to me). I'm not complaining about paying for getting the work done, I just do not want to over pay for something that honestly is totally foreign to me.

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I understand,but fitting and then building set to correct specs are two different animals.Fitting is to find the best specs that will perform best for you.
as I stated before,If the builder is doing all the correct things to have the finished product as it is meant to be,then no $20 isn't too much,IMHO.But, if the builder is charging $20 for no care in obtaining the proper specs,then yes $20 is too much.

Maybe I'm not explaining myself correctly,$20 for an iron that is being built to obtain certain specs is not too much.If the guy is just epoxying in a shaft and cutting close to length and not trying to achieve the desired swing weight,then $20 is too much cause it's not what you wanted.

Also, With your new specs do your lie angles have to be adjusted?If,yes then you are getting a steal.
 
I think your doing a great job left. I've gotten a few more question to ask about just from reading your replies. which in part was the point of this thread, make me a better informed purchaser so that I get the most out of this.

As to the lie angles, yes they will be adjusted...again :) Essentially I am going through what amounts to getting a new set of irons fit to my needs without buying new irons, just shafts. All the measurements and lie board analysis then go from that point. The same guy who I take lessons from will do all that, then the club guys will do the Reshafting to his specifications. Length and lie etc...I'll ask about weights cause that's new stuff to me.


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hey buddy, there was a guy selling shafts in the THP marketplace that might be right up your alley, and I think for a great price.
 
Don't mean to necro this thread but thought I would ask this here rather than starting a new one.

I'm gonna attempt to reshaft my wedges after the 2 terrible experiences I've had locally. At 20$ a club I can get the supplies for less than that, and know (hope) the job is done correctly.

Here is my list can anyone let me know if I forgot something.

Epoxy
Shaft Beads
Ferrules
Grips
Shaft Cutter
Emory paper
Vise
Grip Tape
Grip Solvent
Heat Gun
Torch (If needed)

Only thing I don't have is a shaft puller. Do I really need one? I have an entire auto shop full of tools and various pullers. I'm sure I could engineer something. I just wanna know if I am forgetting anything!

Thanks for the help!
 
I don't know if you have looked at the KBS site as yet. The KBS shaft is all the rage for some folks at present. There technology is quite different if I am not mistaken. I think you may want to make sure to cover that base before installing them on your iron heads.

BigLefty is way knowledgable in these areas. If I am misspeaking hopefully he will chime in and doink me on the head.
 
They are actually royal precision rifle spinners .355 taper tip. I randomly necro'd this thread, maybe I should have started a new one.
 
Probably, my threads suck :beat-up: sounds like a great learning experience though


JRod said:
They are actually royal precision rifle spinners .355 taper tip. I randomly necro'd this thread, maybe I should have started a new one.
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It depends on what the installer does: spining, FLOing, frequency matching, swing weighting, lengths, grips, lie angle, checking lofts, etc., than $20 isn't too much. If it's just removing a shaft and sticking in a new one than $20 is too much.
 
Sean said:
It depends on what the installer does: spining, FLOing, frequency matching, swing weighting, lengths, grips, lie angle, checking lofts, etc., than $20 isn't too much. If it's just removing a shaft and sticking in a new one than $20 is too much.
Click to expand...

I agree. $20 to stick a new shaft in with doing none of the needed things to make them correct for you is high. Does Nike offer this service? I play Ping and have had them reshaft for me in the past and they did a complete job for less than that.
 
Don't know if you can play golf in the winter, but I've take to doing some stuff like that myself to stay busy. I may not be an expert but so far so good. I've read up a lot on the subject and am constantly tinkering (for the record, I'm not usually good at that kind of stuff since I work in front of a computer). It's not very expensive and easy to learn if you're willing to take a chance and try. You'll eventually get better and best of all you will save money in the long term and will be confident it has been done right. Be warned though, it gets addicting!
 
JRod said:
Don't mean to necro this thread but thought I would ask this here rather than starting a new one.

I'm gonna attempt to reshaft my wedges after the 2 terrible experiences I've had locally. At 20$ a club I can get the supplies for less than that, and know (hope) the job is done correctly.

Here is my list can anyone let me know if I forgot something.

Epoxy
Shaft Beads
Ferrules
Grips
Shaft Cutter
Emory paper
Vise
Grip Tape
Grip Solvent
Heat Gun
Torch (If needed)

Only thing I don't have is a shaft puller. Do I really need one? I have an entire auto shop full of tools and various pullers. I'm sure I could engineer something. I just wanna know if I am forgetting anything!

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

The only things I see missing from your list would be a rubber vise clamp (so you don't damage the shaft when put into a vise, and a catch tray for the solvent when installing the grips.

There's some good information on GolfSmith's website at GolfSmith Videos
 
Ok so pulling the shafts was about 10 times easier than I expected. I cleaned.the hosel with a brass hone, my question is this. The shafts seem to wobble a lot in The clubhead , is this normal? I assume the epoxy will take up the space it just seems odd. I would have expected a lot tighter of a fit.
 
JRod said:
Ok so pulling the shafts was about 10 times easier than I expected. I cleaned.the hosel with a brass hone, my question is this. The shafts seem to wobble a lot in The clubhead , is this normal? I assume the epoxy will take up the space it just seems odd. I would have expected a lot tighter of a fit.
Click to expand...

You might be installing a .355 shaft into a .370 hosel.If that is the case,you will need to pick up some brass shims.

Brass shims
 
It's a vokey spin milled which according to golfworks is a 355 taper tip which is what I ordered. the old shaft in it that came from Titleist is the same way. Just seems like it is gonna be a pain to get centered? Does the taper tip ferrule center the shaft on the cluibhead?

Edit: I cleaned the hosel out with a brass hone, the brass isn't harder than the steel is it? No metal dust came out of the hosel just epoxy.
 
Has anybody had their clubsfitted at Dick's? Bought my irons from them and they said to bring them back and they will fit them.
 
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