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Thread: TaylorMade Releases RocketBallz RBZ Driver & Tour Driver

  1. #316
    Mayor of The Woodshed Ole Gray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kujan View Post
    Where do those weights go? Seems like if your cutting down the shaft that you'd want to add weight near the grip.
    With the R11 driver you add the weight to the sides/back of the clubhead. The torque wrench you receive to change the loft/lie also works to add or subtract weight to the club. It's a great idea. You can also use lead tape to a driver head however to me, it's a non attractive option.
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    It really depends on whether or not you are going to make up the swingweight you lose when you cut the shaft. If we assume the RBZ at 46" with a D4 SW (TM's number) then once you cut off 1.5", you'll have a SW around C5. If you are not sensitive to that, you could leave the setup alone and see very little difference in shaft performance. You may, however, see a decreased launch angle from the original 46" shaft - this is not universal but common due to the shorter swing arc. If you add the weight back on the head with lead tape, you'll need about 18 grams which would soften your shaft almost a full flex. If you go with a heavier than stock shaft, you will gain 1 SW point per 9 grams of additional shaft weight. You can also tinker with grip weight but I have not found that effective with my customers. Please note SW is only a number and not something you may be sensitive to!

    Honestly, I would not see the RBZ as a good head for that length of driver.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Gray View Post
    If I decided to go with one of the new RBZ drivers it would have to be cut down to at least 44.5. Now with the R11S driver you can add weight to get the balance back but how would you correct the shaft trimming for a RBZ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by aslxa View Post
    It really depends on whether or not you are going to make up the swingweight you lose when you cut the shaft. If we assume the RBZ at 46" with a D4 SW (TM's number) then once you cut off 1.5", you'll have a SW around C5. If you are not sensitive to that, you could leave the setup alone and see very little difference in shaft performance. You may, however, see a decreased launch angle from the original 46" shaft - this is not universal but common due to the shorter swing arc. If you add the weight back on the head with lead tape, you'll need about 18 grams which would soften your shaft almost a full flex. If you go with a heavier than stock shaft, you will gain 1 SW point per 9 grams of additional shaft weight. You can also tinker with grip weight but I have not found that effective with my customers. Please note SW is only a number and not something you may be sensitive to!

    Honestly, I would not see the RBZ as a good head for that length of driver.
    I appreciate your reply and you know your stuff
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    You are welcome - good luck on the search. BTW, that 910 head you have now is one of the best to play with at sub 45" lengths of the current OEMs given the weight and loft adjustability.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Gray View Post
    I appreciate your reply and you know your stuff

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    Quote Originally Posted by aslxa View Post
    You are welcome - good luck on the search. BTW, that 910 head you have now is one of the best to play with at sub 45" lengths of the current OEMs given the weight and loft adjustability.
    good to know, in case I gotta start chopping!
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    Amateur Kujan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aslxa View Post
    If you add the weight back on the head with lead tape, you'll need about 18 grams which would soften your shaft almost a full flex.
    So is that 12 grams per inch cut off?

    Say I want to go from the factory club length 46 to 44 (take 2 inches off the shaft). Would I put 24 grams of lead tape on the head?

    If I did this with a regular flex would it remain regular after applying the lead tape?

    If no, could I start with a stiff flex, apply the lead tape, and end up with a regular flex?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kujan View Post
    Say I want to go from the factory club length 46 to 44 (take 2 inches off the shaft). Would I put 24 grams of lead tape on the head?
    http://www.golf-components.com/swing...art-woods.html

    According to this chart if I went from 46 to 44 I'd have to add 16 grams to keep it at D4.
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    I'm kind of jealous of those of you who have hit this. I've stopped by three local shops, (Galaxy, Smith, mom/pop) and none of them had this or the R11 S to try. The local Galaxy is having a mid-night release on the 3rd, which I think is a little quirky, but who am I? Anyway - I'm a little anxious to give this a try against my 2.0. I'm in the market for a new 3 wood too, so my expectations are a little high for that as well.

    Curious as to whether there will be any different shaft offerings with this.
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  9. #324
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    I think that chart is a little light as it does not match up to our experience - you really have to weigh each of the components if you want to be exact. You would "weaken" your shaft flex by a full flex even with just 16 grams. You can see with that amount of lead tape why we usually use component driver heads which can be tip weighted and often come heavier for shorter builds. Most OEM heads just do not weigh enough (except for the weight adjustable). There are a few others that weigh out pretty heavy - the Ping G20 has been coming at 205 grams and one of the Cobras (either the LV4 or 5) was also in that ballpark. Heads in the low to mid 190s, which you need to build at 46", are a problem at 44".


    Quote Originally Posted by Kujan View Post
    http://www.golf-components.com/swing...art-woods.html

    According to this chart if I went from 46 to 44 I'd have to add 16 grams to keep it at D4.

  10. #325
    Amateur Kujan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aslxa View Post
    Heads in the low to mid 190s, which you need to build at 46", are a problem at 44".
    I see your point. It is disappointing as I had my eye on that RBZ! What about the R11? That can be had for $300.

    Interesting about the G20 head being on the heavier side. What about the G15 that I have. Is that heavy enough to cut down 1.75 inches to 44?

    O yeah also, what about the RBZ tour - is it heavy enough to cut down?
    Last edited by Kujan; 01-31-2012 at 09:53 PM. Reason: one more...LOL
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    I see the G15 is 202 and the G20 204

    One other thing, what about just cutting the RBZ down to 44 and not adding weight. Would that not be a good idea?
    Last edited by Kujan; 01-31-2012 at 10:12 PM.
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    This whole business of shortening the club and dealing with the change in swingweight is confusing as hell!

    I'm thinking, get the club you want, at the length you want, and apply lead tape sparingly until you get the feel you want.

    Here's an interesting comment I found on GolfReWound:

    "After altering a few weights on my R7, for example, I decided to trim the shaft a bit more to get it down to 44-inches. Naturally, this threw off the swingweight and rather than get into a whole big thing with the head weights, I just whipped out the old lead tape and applied it to the back curve of the clubhead. When I was done, it was seamless and I'll bet that I could hand that club to anyone and have them look it over and at first glance they wouldn't even notice that there was any tape there at all."
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    You could certainly cut it down and not readd the weight. If you are not sensitive to the swingweight change (which would be substantial), then no problem. Not every player I fit really senses swingweight. If you do not mind the cosmetics, adding lead tape is fine. You can do it gradually until you reach a point where you are having the best results - that might be at C9 or might be at D4 or you may not notice any difference.



    Quote Originally Posted by Kujan View Post
    I see the G15 is 202 and the G20 204

    One other thing, what about just cutting the RBZ down to 44 and not adding weight. Would that not be a good idea?

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    One other note about cutting down a shaft that is not swingweight related. If you cut 2" off of your driver, you MIGHT see a lower launch angle. In some players I fit, we have to add loft to accomodate the shorter shaft due to the shorter swing arc. Please note that this does not apply to everyone. This is another reason why it is hard to buy a major OEM driver at sub 45" inches - you cannot demo them at that length.


    Quote Originally Posted by Kujan View Post
    I see the G15 is 202 and the G20 204

    One other thing, what about just cutting the RBZ down to 44 and not adding weight. Would that not be a good idea?

  15. #330
    Amateur Kujan's Avatar
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    Thanks asixa for your invaluable advice. C9 might be just right. That looks to be about 6 grams. My plan is to have Golfsmith cut down my G15 from 45.75" to 44". This way - at a small expense - I can see how I like the shorter length and experiment with lead tape.
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