TaylorMade Burner 2.0 Irons - Forum Testing Review

Have any of you noticed problems hitting your wedges from a tight lie? I ask this because yesterday I had a few shots one about 30 yds out from dead grass almost like I was hitting the ball off of concrete, I used my 58* cleveland wedge and had no problem getting it up in the air. A few holes later I had a similar lie but further out and had to use my AW. I bladed my first attempt and while I tried again and opened the face of the club up I just couldnt get under the ball with this wedge. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Or is it just mechanical error??

I have not had any issues with the PW-SW from tight lies. I've had opposite experiences actually, where the wedges were so reliable from all lies, I went out and bought a matching Burner 2.0 AW. This was a different experience I see with my CG Gold irons, where I would carry Vokey GW, SW, and LWs.

I find myself using the thought process of hitting down on these tight shots to help the ball get airborne. I know its counterintuitive, but it seems to work for me. I often practice these types of shots at the end of my range session when I have a nice section of divots cut out of the tee.
 
Question for the testers and other 2.0 owners....I have tried searching the tread and didnt see anything so I apologize if this is a skim post.

Have any of you noticed problems hitting your wedges from a tight lie? I ask this because yesterday I had a few shots one about 30 yds out from dead grass almost like I was hitting the ball off of concrete, I used my 58* cleveland wedge and had no problem getting it up in the air. A few holes later I had a similar lie but further out and had to use my AW. I bladed my first attempt and while I tried again and opened the face of the club up I just couldnt get under the ball with this wedge. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Or is it just mechanical error??

I only have only demo'd the a wedge but with the sole and cavity I don't think I could ever get under a ball from a tight lie. Someone else might be able to manipulate the club head to do it, but its my thought that these weren't designed for that shot.

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tapatalk
 
I find myself using the thought process of hitting down on these tight shots to help the ball get airborne. I know its counterintuitive, but it seems to work for me. I often practice these types of shots at the end of my range session when I have a nice section of divots cut out of the tee.

This!! I too have found this the much more effective and repeatable shot with the 2.0's.

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tapatalk
 
Question for the testers and other 2.0 owners....I have tried searching the tread and didnt see anything so I apologize if this is a skim post.

Have any of you noticed problems hitting your wedges from a tight lie? I ask this because yesterday I had a few shots one about 30 yds out from dead grass almost like I was hitting the ball off of concrete, I used my 58* cleveland wedge and had no problem getting it up in the air. A few holes later I had a similar lie but further out and had to use my AW. I bladed my first attempt and while I tried again and opened the face of the club up I just couldnt get under the ball with this wedge. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Or is it just mechanical error??

I haven't really seen any issues with hitting off a tight lie. I focus on hitting down very sharply when its a tight lie and making sure that I catch the ball first. Using this process, I have had no trouble at all getting the ball airborn. I just focus on really trying to pinch the ball between the turf and the club face and it leaps off and upwards.
 
Question for the testers and other 2.0 owners....I have tried searching the tread and didnt see anything so I apologize if this is a skim post.

Have any of you noticed problems hitting your wedges from a tight lie? I ask this because yesterday I had a few shots one about 30 yds out from dead grass almost like I was hitting the ball off of concrete, I used my 58* cleveland wedge and had no problem getting it up in the air. A few holes later I had a similar lie but further out and had to use my AW. I bladed my first attempt and while I tried again and opened the face of the club up I just couldnt get under the ball with this wedge. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Or is it just mechanical error??

I have to agree with the others that have said to make sure you are hitting down on the ball. If you hit the ball first, I think you will no longer see an issue with this, but if you are trying to sweep through the ball, you will continue to have this problem.
 
I have to agree with the others that have said to make sure you are hitting down on the ball. If you hit the ball first, I think you will no longer see an issue with this, but if you are trying to sweep through the ball, you will continue to have this problem.

Exactly. The larger base seems like it would have a tendency to bounce off the hard ground into the middle of the ball. Really try to focus on making contact with the ball first and I think this problem will correct itself.
 
Exactly. The larger base seems like it would have a tendency to bounce off the hard ground into the middle of the ball. Really try to focus on making contact with the ball first and I think this problem will correct itself.

well said all. I am 100% positive I am trying to sweep when I really think I am trapping the ball. I think I just have this flop shot mentality when it comes to wedges. I guess I need some range work on hitting down on the ball with my wedges. We have talked about it in the other 2.0 thread about how the sole prevents from getting under tha ball and I had gotten around that on thicker lies by open up the club face.
 
well said all. I am 100% positive I am trying to sweep when I really think I am trapping the ball. I think I just have this flop shot mentality when it comes to wedges. I guess I need some range work on hitting down on the ball with my wedges. We have talked about it in the other 2.0 thread about how the sole prevents from getting under tha ball and I had gotten around that on thicker lies by open up the club face.

Let us know how it works out for you. I would be shocked if this didn't completely fix this issue for you. Good luck
 
Question for the testers and other 2.0 owners....I have tried searching the tread and didnt see anything so I apologize if this is a skim post.

Have any of you noticed problems hitting your wedges from a tight lie? I ask this because yesterday I had a few shots one about 30 yds out from dead grass almost like I was hitting the ball off of concrete, I used my 58* cleveland wedge and had no problem getting it up in the air. A few holes later I had a similar lie but further out and had to use my AW. I bladed my first attempt and while I tried again and opened the face of the club up I just couldnt get under the ball with this wedge. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Or is it just mechanical error??

I know you've already got your answer, but I'll chime in anyway since I was in class. While I agree with the others, I actually prefer my JAWS wedge over the SW from the set. I haven't really topped a lot with it or anything like that, but I feel more versatile with my normal wedge. It is the opposite though with tight lies. My wedge has too much bounce, and I usually can't get under the ball, so in this case I have actually liked hitting the stock SW.
 
Question for the testers and other 2.0 owners....I have tried searching the tread and didnt see anything so I apologize if this is a skim post.

Have any of you noticed problems hitting your wedges from a tight lie? I ask this because yesterday I had a few shots one about 30 yds out from dead grass almost like I was hitting the ball off of concrete, I used my 58* cleveland wedge and had no problem getting it up in the air. A few holes later I had a similar lie but further out and had to use my AW. I bladed my first attempt and while I tried again and opened the face of the club up I just couldnt get under the ball with this wedge. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Or is it just mechanical error??

From a tight lie I much prefer an aftermarket blade style wedge. I have a 50*, 54*, and 58* TM Z wedges that I love from tight lies. The PW or SW are not my favorites in this sitiation. From the rough yes I like them, tight lies not so much. I guess I feel like I have to pick it so clean with the large sole of the 2.0 wedges that I often hit it super thin.
 
From a tight lie I much prefer an aftermarket blade style wedge. I have a 50*, 54*, and 58* TM Z wedges that I love from tight lies. The PW or SW are not my favorites in this sitiation. From the rough yes I like them, tight lies not so much. I guess I feel like I have to pick it so clean with the large sole of the 2.0 wedges that I often hit it super thin.

that is the same feeling i get as well and it will throw me off every time.
 
Quick question, if any of the reviewers have the 2.0 "A" Wedge;

I currently game the xFT 52* and 56*, and hate the 7* gap between the 2.0 PW and my 52*

I am trying to decide if I should get the 52* bent to a 50*, or pickup the A wedge from the 2.0 set. Anyone use the A wedge a good bit and have a preference for it? Or vice versa, does anyone use a 50* wedge over the A wedge, and for what reasons?

Appreciate the insight.
 
I have the same question. Just got the 2.0s and have a set of 52*, 56*, and 60* wedges that I have been playing for a few years (old Tommy Armour Pro Spins). I have a pretty big distance issue between the Burner PW and the 52* - probably 20 to even 25 yards if I hit both clubs "good". Was thinking about going with a set of 50*, 54*, and 58* as I don't use the 60* much anyway. But don't know if I should buy the A wedge to match the Burners or go with a 3-wedge set in those lofts that are more matched to each other. So part of my question is the same (what do you guys think about the A wedge), but the other part is if you don't like it what wedge set would you recommend in the 50/54/58 combo?
 
I have the same question. Just got the 2.0s and have a set of 52*, 56*, and 60* wedges that I have been playing for a few years (old Tommy Armour Pro Spins). I have a pretty big distance issue between the Burner PW and the 52* - probably 20 to even 25 yards if I hit both clubs "good". Was thinking about going with a set of 50*, 54*, and 58* as I don't use the 60* much anyway. But don't know if I should buy the A wedge to match the Burners or go with a 3-wedge set in those lofts that are more matched to each other. So part of my question is the same (what do you guys think about the A wedge), but the other part is if you don't like it what wedge set would you recommend in the 50/54/58 combo?

Quick question, if any of the reviewers have the 2.0 "A" Wedge;

I currently game the xFT 52* and 56*, and hate the 7* gap between the 2.0 PW and my 52*

I am trying to decide if I should get the 52* bent to a 50*, or pickup the A wedge from the 2.0 set. Anyone use the A wedge a good bit and have a preference for it? Or vice versa, does anyone use a 50* wedge over the A wedge, and for what reasons?

Appreciate the insight.

First off, I'll forgive you guys for missing it in the 45+ pages so far, but I discussed this same thinking in a previous post in July :D.

http://www.thehackersparadise.com/forum/showthread.php?22106-TaylorMade-Burner-2.0-Irons-Forum-Testing-Review&p=795576&viewfull=1#post795576

I had a VERY same situation as you guys describe. My other wedges are blade style Vokey Spin 52, 56, 60. The Burner 2 wedges are 50, 55, and 60 of loft. I even had my local shop bend the 56 to 55 to match the Burner 2 SW so I could do a true head to head comparison.

After about 50 balls or so, I saw similar distance, trajectory, spin, and dispersion on well struck full shots with both clubs. The mishits are where the clubs separated themselves. I just couldnt justify the loss of distance on mishits I was seeing with my Vokeys, it was far and away subpar to the results from the Burner 2 SW. My toe misses with the B2 SW just flew further then the same toe mishit from the vokey. The trajectory on Vokey mishits was lower than that of the B2 mishit.

I was so impressed, I went back to my shop and had them order me a custom 50* Burner 2 AW matched to my specs. I am not a low handicapper, so I dont NEED a blade style AW & SW. I did keep my Vokey 60* LW due to the performance on short chips & out of the sand.

I am not a club fitter in anyway but I would recommend starting closest to the green and find out what club you rely on the most. For me, it is my 60*, so I didnt swap it out. I would then move backward and address where your full wedge shots miss. If you're like me, the Burner 2 cavity back might help make your misses, miss less.

Regardless of what you decide (blade style versus cavity style), I HIGHLY recommend taking the time to measure and address your distance gaps. My shop charged me $4 to bend my 56 to 55 for my test. I tried not to use my best shots as a determine factor, but instead used my average shots.

I hope this helps, feel free to let me know if this makes sense, makes it more confusing, or if it just raised more questions.
 
Quick question, if any of the reviewers have the 2.0 "A" Wedge;

I currently game the xFT 52* and 56*, and hate the 7* gap between the 2.0 PW and my 52*

I am trying to decide if I should get the 52* bent to a 50*, or pickup the A wedge from the 2.0 set. Anyone use the A wedge a good bit and have a preference for it? Or vice versa, does anyone use a 50* wedge over the A wedge, and for what reasons?

Appreciate the insight.

i have a A wedge from my Burner 2.0 set and a 52* Xft they go the same distance and i hit the xft really well and i like chipping with it better than the A wedge. just my opinion so i took the A wedge out of my bag. i thought about getting it bent also but ive had some change in my distances lately so after i see where they settle i may have it bent.
 
First off, I'll forgive you guys for missing it in the 45+ pages so far, but I discussed this same thinking in a previous post in July :D.

http://www.thehackersparadise.com/forum/showthread.php?22106-TaylorMade-Burner-2.0-Irons-Forum-Testing-Review&p=795576&viewfull=1#post795576

I had a VERY same situation as you guys describe. My other wedges are blade style Vokey Spin 52, 56, 60. The Burner 2 wedges are 50, 55, and 60 of loft. I even had my local shop bend the 56 to 55 to match the Burner 2 SW so I could do a true head to head comparison.

After about 50 balls or so, I saw similar distance, trajectory, spin, and dispersion on well struck full shots with both clubs. The mishits are where the clubs separated themselves. I just couldnt justify the loss of distance on mishits I was seeing with my Vokeys, it was far and away subpar to the results from the Burner 2 SW. My toe misses with the B2 SW just flew further then the same toe mishit from the vokey. The trajectory on Vokey mishits was lower than that of the B2 mishit.

I was so impressed, I went back to my shop and had them order me a custom 50* Burner 2 AW matched to my specs. I am not a low handicapper, so I dont NEED a blade style AW & SW. I did keep my Vokey 60* LW due to the performance on short chips & out of the sand.

I am not a club fitter in anyway but I would recommend starting closest to the green and find out what club you rely on the most. For me, it is my 60*, so I didnt swap it out. I would then move backward and address where your full wedge shots miss. If you're like me, the Burner 2 cavity back might help make your misses, miss less.

Regardless of what you decide (blade style versus cavity style), I HIGHLY recommend taking the time to measure and address your distance gaps. My shop charged me $4 to bend my 56 to 55 for my test. I tried not to use my best shots as a determine factor, but instead used my average shots.

I hope this helps, feel free to let me know if this makes sense, makes it more confusing, or if it just raised more questions.

Nice post dude!:good:
 
First off, I'll forgive you guys for missing it in the 45+ pages so far, but I discussed this same thinking in a previous post in July :D.

http://www.thehackersparadise.com/forum/showthread.php?22106-TaylorMade-Burner-2.0-Irons-Forum-Testing-Review&p=795576&viewfull=1#post795576

I had a VERY same situation as you guys describe. My other wedges are blade style Vokey Spin 52, 56, 60. The Burner 2 wedges are 50, 55, and 60 of loft. I even had my local shop bend the 56 to 55 to match the Burner 2 SW so I could do a true head to head comparison.

After about 50 balls or so, I saw similar distance, trajectory, spin, and dispersion on well struck full shots with both clubs. The mishits are where the clubs separated themselves. I just couldnt justify the loss of distance on mishits I was seeing with my Vokeys, it was far and away subpar to the results from the Burner 2 SW. My toe misses with the B2 SW just flew further then the same toe mishit from the vokey. The trajectory on Vokey mishits was lower than that of the B2 mishit.

I was so impressed, I went back to my shop and had them order me a custom 50* Burner 2 AW matched to my specs. I am not a low handicapper, so I dont NEED a blade style AW & SW. I did keep my Vokey 60* LW due to the performance on short chips & out of the sand.

I am not a club fitter in anyway but I would recommend starting closest to the green and find out what club you rely on the most. For me, it is my 60*, so I didnt swap it out. I would then move backward and address where your full wedge shots miss. If you're like me, the Burner 2 cavity back might help make your misses, miss less.

Regardless of what you decide (blade style versus cavity style), I HIGHLY recommend taking the time to measure and address your distance gaps. My shop charged me $4 to bend my 56 to 55 for my test. I tried not to use my best shots as a determine factor, but instead used my average shots.

I hope this helps, feel free to let me know if this makes sense, makes it more confusing, or if it just raised more questions.

Thanks for the reply, it's much appreciated.

It made perfect sense, and I have been pondering doing the exact same thing you did. Thanks again.
 
In response to the AW question:

I actually prefer the feel and control I get with my Callaway wedges. The irons I was gaming prior to these had the same lofts, so here is what I did. I bought three different JAWS wedges, and went with 52, 54, and 58. From here, I went and had the 52 bent to a 50, making my bounce go from 12 to 10 degrees. This gave me something I can hit off of tighter lies, and I can always choke up on it or take half swings for shorter distances. With this being my setup, I now have the 45* PW, then go to the three wedges. No real big gaps anywhere, and it is working out perfectly.

The only problem I see with you bending your 52 to a 50, would be the fact that you leave yourself with another hefty gap between it and your SW. Purchasing an AW would not be a bad idea, but then your kind of in the same boat as far as a gap between it and your SW.
 
In response to the AW question:

I actually prefer the feel and control I get with my Callaway wedges. The irons I was gaming prior to these had the same lofts, so here is what I did. I bought three different JAWS wedges, and went with 52, 54, and 58. From here, I went and had the 52 bent to a 50, making my bounce go from 12 to 10 degrees. This gave me something I can hit off of tighter lies, and I can always choke up on it or take half swings for shorter distances. With this being my setup, I now have the 45* PW, then go to the three wedges. No real big gaps anywhere, and it is working out perfectly.

The only problem I see with you bending your 52 to a 50, would be the fact that you leave yourself with another hefty gap between it and your SW. Purchasing an AW would not be a bad idea, but then your kind of in the same boat as far as a gap between it and your SW.

You're right, having the PW at 45*, and getting the 52* bent to 50* would then leave me with a 6* gap to the 56*.

Not sure what I'm going to do...


...just tap it in...
 
You're right, having the PW at 45*, and getting the 52* bent to 50* would then leave me with a 6* gap to the 56*.

Not sure what I'm going to do...


...just tap it in...

You could always bring that 56* to a 55* to give you a consistent gap between each wedge.
 
Re Wedges
I find the AW falls perfectly between my PW and SW distances.
I have said before, I have big gaps (around 25yards!) between most of my irons. Yet the 2.0 wedges have half this club gap for me (so I get PW125 - AW112.5 - SW100). I almost wish there was a little more distance gap, to make club selection more obvious. I'm on the verge of buying the 2.0 LW, because I'm struggling at <40yards with the SW.

I also have another example of how thinned shots with the 2.0s don't necessarily punish you...
In a previous post I told how I put a SW to 5-10 feet on a 105yard par3. The shot had flown outstandingly high. It was actually my 2nd ball. The 1st couldn't have been more different, thinned terribly and scorched through the green (clearing it) landing on a downslope behind, with thick bushes beyond. I assumed it would be lost, but was amazed to find it within ten yards of the green! I've said before I firmly believe-in, but can't get my head around, TM's engineered raised centre of gravity in shorter irons. Having played many low (almost thinned) 9i shots, which travelled only 10yards too long, and which somehow stopped dead! I'm not 100% sure if this design carries through to SW and LW, but it appeared to do so for me last round. As to whether that's a good thing for a wedge, you guys will know better than me!

I'm probably getting the 2.0 LW without even considering whatever else is on the market, to have a nice matching set to learn with. Like I've said before, why would TM make something that wasn't perfectly usable? But I am a little intrigued and anxious that the 2.0 design might not suit the most lofted wedge.
 
I'm probably getting the 2.0 LW without even considering whatever else is on the market, to have a nice matching set to learn with. Like I've said before, why would TM make something that wasn't perfectly usable? But I am a little intrigued and anxious that the 2.0 design might not suit the most lofted wedge.

Glad you like the wedges so much, but I would test out a few different wedges (other TM wedges and other OEMs) before committing. While having a nicely matched set looks nice, nothing looks nicer than golf shots that end up close to the hole. I use my LW for such a variety of shots, I couldnt justify diving into the B2 LW just to have it match.
 
You could always bring that 56* to a 55* to give you a consistent gap between each wedge.

That is what I am thinking may be the easiest to do, bent the 52* down to a 50*. Then bend the 56* to a 55*.

I need to get the 2.0 "A" wedge out on the course for some demo time (it's the only club I havent hit out of the 2.0s when I demo'd them). I am curious if the 2.0 A Wedge would benefit me more over my xFT 52* (soon to be 50*).
 
i have a A wedge from my Burner 2.0 set and a 52* Xft they go the same distance and i hit the xft really well and i like chipping with it better than the A wedge. just my opinion so i took the A wedge out of my bag. i thought about getting it bent also but ive had some change in my distances lately so after i see where they settle i may have it bent.

you interested in getting rid of the A wedge?
 
Quick question, if any of the reviewers have the 2.0 "A" Wedge;

I currently game the xFT 52* and 56*, and hate the 7* gap between the 2.0 PW and my 52*

I am trying to decide if I should get the 52* bent to a 50*, or pickup the A wedge from the 2.0 set. Anyone use the A wedge a good bit and have a preference for it? Or vice versa, does anyone use a 50* wedge over the A wedge, and for what reasons?

Appreciate the insight.

Little bit late to answer but....

I was in the same position as you are. I have bent my 52* to 50*. This is allowing for comfortable gaps between all my clubs. My PW goes 135 and now my 50* goes 125.

The only club in set that I don't care for much is the SW. The club hits fine out of the rough and fairway but I just don't like it out of the sand. It feels very awkward to try and open the face with that club. I have given some practice in a bunker and was much more reliable with my blade 60* wedge. On a few occasions, I even shanked the SW in the sand. I feel like the large flange on the bottom is preventing me from really opening the face with ease.
 
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