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Parallel tip vs. tapered tip

Nippon Shafts
tequila4kapp

tequila4kapp

Tom Watson called to say “Hi”
Albatross 2024 Club
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I see these terms used in assorted listings. I think the meanings are (hopefully) self evident. But here's my question - do you have to match tapered tip to tapered head and parallel tip to parallel head? Or can you put one in the other? And how do you figure out if the head/tip require one vs the other? (I had thought 'tapered' referred to the kick-point and not the tip...)
 
A lot to answer here and I'll just give a quick response. Taper and parallel shafts are quite different in a key way, which lies in how the shafts are tipped for their stiffness. If you buy a set of taper tip shafts (which will have a diameter measurement of .355 at the tip), each shaft corresponds to a particular iron. As you probably know, iron head weight is not constant but gets heavier as you go up in loft. So your 7 iron shaft has already been "tipped" by the manufacturer for the 7 iron head weight. You simply cut the butt to get to your desired playing length. When you hear the term "soft stepped" that applies to taper tip shafts where you put say the 7 iron shaft in the 8 iron head. Since the 8 iron head is heavier than the shaft tip was designed for, the shaft will actually play a little weaker to its stated flex (about 1/3 flex).

With parallel shafts (which are .370) you get a set of shafts that are completely the same. You then cut the shaft tip the corresponding amount to match the head weight of whatever iron you are building. By varying the amount of tipping you can affect the flex (so no need for "soft stepping" with parallels). After getting the shaft tip where you want it, you cut the butt to the playing length.

Interestingly, some shafts have differences in their bend profiles when you look at the taper tip versus parallel version. Make sure that when you are fit, you are fit with the type of shaft that you will ultimately buy.

Can you use either shaft in a .355 or .370 bore head? Yes, if you know enough about clubmaking. Would I recommend it? Not really as you sort of are trying to make a round peg fit a square hole. Golfworks, btw, offers all their heads in a universal bore, meaning you can use either type of shaft without modification.


tequila4kapp said:
I see these terms used in assorted listings. I think the meanings are (hopefully) self evident. But here's my question - do you have to match tapered tip to tapered head and parallel tip to parallel head? Or can you put one in the other? And how do you figure out if the head/tip require one vs the other? (I had thought 'tapered' referred to the kick-point and not the tip...)
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the terms refer to the tip of the shaft. Taper tip can be be used in both size .370 (with shim) and .355. Parallel tip can only be used in .370 heads. You can order either one uncut and customize the lengths for each club or you can set the length when you order.

If you order stiff flex you won't want to cut the tip as it will make the shafts stiffer. Always cut the butt end to maintain your ordered flex.

tequila4kapp said:
I see these terms used in assorted listings. I think the meanings are (hopefully) self evident. But here's my question - do you have to match tapered tip to tapered head and parallel tip to parallel head? Or can you put one in the other? And how do you figure out if the head/tip require one vs the other? (I had thought 'tapered' referred to the kick-point and not the tip...)
Click to expand...
 
Great overviews above; I thnk they give you everything you need to know.

Just one additional point though... bellairemi mentioned it in passing, but hopefully the explanation below will bring it to life.

Let's use KBS as an example (all numbers are approximate, so apologies in advance if I'm out by a tenth or two).

A taper tip KBS Tour shaft in regular flex is 5.0 fcm (a measure of stiffness). Sofstepping that shaft or hardstepping that shaft would result in 4.7 or 5.3 fcm, whilst double softstepping or double hardstepping that shaft would result in 4.4 or 5.6 fcm.

With the equivalent parallel tipped shaft, there is a greater level of flexibility when building the club. Tipping the shaft for its respective head by a given amount will also result in 5.0 fcm. However, you can undertip or overtip by 3/16" to get 4.9 or 5.1 fcm, or by 3/8" to get 4.8 or 5.2 fcm, or by 9/16" to get 4.7 or 5.3 fcm... and so on.

Effectively, it is easier to get specific flex frequencies throughout the set using parallel shafts and it is possible to get perfect flex consistency by tweaking the tipping amounts accordingly to address any 'manufacturing tolerances' (which is not an option for taper tip).

However, there are perceived downsides such as greater weight inconsistency as the shorter the iron the lighter the shaft (as the shafts are identical and you basically cut more of it off for your pw vs. your 3 iron) whereas some prefer constant shaft weighting of tapers.
 
Ps. Note that this is relevant only to us mere mortals; any perceived advantages of parallel over taper simply aren't relevent to those at the top of the game.

Any and all issues can be overcome. They can choose from an infinite inventory of tapered shafts to ensure perfect frequency matching, they can cherry pick club heads to a certain weight (or manipulate head weight by grinding, etc.) to ensure perfect frequency matching, and so on... plus no doubt loads of other things I can't even think of.
 
Your DPC heads are Tapered (.355). Your RBladez heads are Parallel (.370). .355 shafts go into .355 heads and .370 shafts go in .370 heads.
 
Oregon Jack said:
Your DPC heads are Tapered (.355). Your RBladez heads are Parallel (.370). .355 shafts go into .355 heads and .370 shafts go in .370 heads.
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I shim .355 shafts into .370 all the time, easy and NO issues.
 
Jman said:
I shim .355 shafts into .370 all the time, easy and NO issues.
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I will be doing this for the first time hopefully next week. .355 KBS 90's into .370 Cleveland MT's.

Tequilla, obviously you can't put parallel shafts into a taper head without boring the head. Something you wouldn't want to try yourself.
 
Ps. Measure and mark the insertion depth as it can be a very tight fit with shims, making you think you've fully inserted the shaft when, in fact, you haven't.

Also, if you google, you can find alternative shim options such as drywall tape or soda cans.

Good luck!
 
Is there any performance differences between a parallel vs as taper tip in a set of irons?
 
Scrap Iron said:
Is there any performance differences between a parallel vs as taper tip in a set of irons?
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Hi. I think from a robot testing point of view, the answer is no. If you tip trimmed properly, weight sorted and frequency matched the raw shafts before the trimming started. The performance is the same.
For a human aspect, there will be a weight difference between the shaft weight of the 3 iron to the 9 iron. Parallel tip shafts become descending weight after trimming. Meaning the 9 iron weight less than the 3 iron shaft.
Taper tip shafts are constant weight, the 3 iron shaft weight the same as the 9 iron.
In side by side comparisons, a 3 iron taper tip to a 3 iron parallel tip shaft the weight difference can be significant.
Granted we are only talking about grams, but people are very sensitive to 15 gram weight differences.
In side by side testing, people that are weight sensitive, they hit the taper tip 3 iron straighter, than a parallel tip 3 iron.
The total weight of the club can change the wrist release timing for some people.
 
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