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Car Detailing Thread

OK, so speaking of swirls, what do I need to do/learn to get the smooth back in this paint?
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It still looks good after a good cleaning, but I see those swirls and it irks me a bit.
 
I used to detail boats for a summer job as a teenager but haven't been detailing too much at home since I drive a company car that gets replaced every 18 months. My wife's car I will detail a couple times a year but I planning on a lot more detailing when we take delivery of our Tesla at the end of March.:act-up:

i have found the fastest and easiest way to get a show car finish is to use a 6" DA sander with an interface pad and 3M Trizact 3000 and 5000 grit abrasives followed by 3M polishes and wax/sealer. If I have any deep scratches to remove I'll use a 1500 and or 2000 grit abrasive first. The 3M Trizact abrasives are super expensive and only available at an Automotive paint store but they save a bunch of time. I have Flex and Makita buffers and use 3M 6" dual action sander with a 5/16" throw and also a 3M 3" DA. The 6" DA makes quick work of applying wax as well.
 
T0AD said:
OK, so speaking of swirls, what do I need to do/learn to get the smooth back in this paint?
196012_547152217246_4920313_n_zps5565d082.jpg


It still looks good after a good cleaning, but I see those swirls and it irks me a bit.
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Rotary is the easiest way, but there is a learning curve and more damage can be done. A Porter Cable can get rid of swirls with a good use of effort as well as the right supplies. If you want to try it yourself, I recommend getting a good filler instead of removal at first. Try something like a glaze or AIO (all in one) product and then top it with a sealant. You will get weeks of coverage looking swirl free and a simple rinse is all that you will need.

If you want to try your hand at removal, you are going to need a device (mentioned above) and some sort of light abrasive (very light). The Porter Cable is idiot proof in a lot of ways because burning or further damage is tough to do.
 
JB said:
Rotary is the easiest way, but there is a learning curve and more damage can be done. A Porter Cable can get rid of swirls with a good use of effort as well as the right supplies. If you want to try it yourself, I recommend getting a good filler instead of removal at first. Try something like a glaze or AIO (all in one) product and then top it with a sealant. You will get weeks of coverage looking swirl free and a simple rinse is all that you will need.

If you want to try your hand at removal, you are going to need a device (mentioned above) and some sort of light abrasive (very light). The Porter Cable is idiot proof in a lot of ways because burning or further damage is tough to do.
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Good advice hear. Rotary buffers take some practice and can burn through the paint if you don't have good technique. The porter cable is a great way to start. Stay away from the last half inch of the edge of any panel or better yet using masking tape to protect the edges when your first starting. The porter cable can remove swirls with the right products but will take at least 2 steps. Mequiars and many others make good products that are widely available for someone new to detailing and most have an informative website showing you how to use the products.

The quickest way to remove swirls is with a DA sander and wet abrasive but this is best left to a body shop or a good professional detailer. IMO, good detail shops are hard to find. If you were going to pay someone to detail your car, A reputable body shop is more likely to be able to deliver a swirl free finish because they are dealing with new paint jobs where waxes that hide swirls can't be used. It's easy to hide a swirl but takes more steps, expertise, and better products to remove a swirl.
 
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A rotary buffer is by far the quickest way to remove paintwork defects, but as mentioned, these should really not be used by someone just starting out. The plate spins on its axis meaning it's terribly easy to burn the paint if you don't know what your doing as said above.
A Dual Action polisher is far safer. Porter Cable's as have been mentioned were the first popular brand to enter the market, other companies have now released their own DA polishers, notably Meguiars. The Dual Action polisher oscillates as it spins. This means less heat build up which in turn means a safer process. It does also mean a slower process though.
Then there are the pad polish combinations to consider. Different manufacturers have different levels of paint hardness. BMW and VW for instance are renowned for having a hard paint that will take a more aggressive combination to correct. Honda is known for having softer paint and does not require the cutting power needed to correct a VW. A great resource is www.detailingworld.com ;)
 
JB said:
I got a list covered for you brother. You are going to love the Porter Cable. While I switched to Rotary for a while, the PC is a machine that is near effortless.
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Man, I never pegged you for a detailer. Not in any negative way but just because I figured golfing related things took up a majority of your time. I guess there was life before THP though!


I agree with you on the rotary, it is the quickest but has the steepest learning curve. I always recommend someone picks up a junkyard panel to practice on. You do have machines like the Rupes and Flex which offer excellent correction without as much danger. My go to now is Makita for heavy correction followed by the Rupes to remove holgraming or compounding marring. Hell, rupes even has the 1 step compounding/finishing product available now.

For any beginner, a DA (dual action) such as Porter Cable, Griots Garage or Meguiar's are excellent option. Orange and white lake country polishing pads 2-3 of each and something like Meguiars M105 and M205 are a good starting point. There are plenty of guides that can walk you through it.
 
Anybody use a wash method like "The Garry Dean wash method" with a very small amount of water:

 
If I recall the original GD method was basically one pre soak, one bucket and a bunch of microfiber? I've used it and it works, I think the main key in this is that the surface is well lubricated. If the surface is super soapy its going to help prevent any marring from rubbing dirt and grime around on the paint.
 
I haven't heard specifically of GD method or infinite use detail juice. But it seems like Optimum No Rinse...which I have used before. I've only done it in the winter when it was too cold out to wash and could only do a hose-less wash in the garage. I also only did it on my car that was relatively clean...not caked with rd salt. My method is two buckets with grit guards. Pre soaked each panel with no rinse solution in a garden sprayer. Washed down panel with soaked microfiber wash mitt and dry with MF waffle weave towel. You just have to make sure you rinse your mitt frequently and you should be fine as far as minimizing swirl marks. Nothing's safer than actually using a hose to prevent swirl marks. But if you are limited on water. This method isn't bad....as long as you don't have caked on dirt.
 
Haven't read much of this thread, can't imagine liking washing a car let alone waxing it. Bought a new car in October and it got washed when the dealer serviced it. I believe in a good protective coat of dirt, did have a Vette once that got washed a few tomes. Rather be playing golf!
 
Howzat said:
Anybody use a wash method like "The Garry Dean wash method" with a very small amount of water:

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Look up a product we called ONR. Optimum No Rinse.
When I lived up north, this is all I would use.
 
As a Jeep owner, this does not appeal to me. I wash my Jeep with mud, tree limb scratches and rock rash... She doesn't like clean water.


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Colt said:
As a Jeep owner, this does not appeal to me. I wash my Jeep with mud, tree limb scratches and rock rash... She doesn't like clean water.


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What kind of Jeep are you driving these days.
 
Wake said:
What kind of Jeep are you driving these days.
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Just a Wrangler Sport 2 door. Been adding in to it a bit. Just bought a Dana 44 for the front that I'll be installing once I get down to Tennessee. After I get that, it's 37's and a RIPP Supercharger going in soon thereafter!


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Colt said:
Just a Wrangler Sport 2 door. Been adding in to it a bit. Just bought a Dana 44 for the front that I'll be installing once I get down to Tennessee. After I get that, it's 37's and a RIPP Supercharger going in soon thereafter!


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Sounds like fun. My dad bought one last year, I've had the bug since.
 
Wake said:
Sounds like fun. My dad bought one last year, I've had the bug since.
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They're awesome. Best part is that they don't require detailing!


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Everyone has one but me.
 
Wake said:
Everyone has one but me.
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It's ok, buddy.

I wish I never would have gotten rid of my Wrangler a few years back. Loved it, but with all the interstate travelling I was doing at that time, it didnt make sense.
 
Waiting for the sealant to dry:

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The old RX7 is looking good. I will give you some cool ideas and tips when in MSP in a few weeks.
 
I went to town on my grandma-mobile the other day with the wash/wax/claybar etc...and then I drove it through a rain storm.

#crap
 
JB said:
The old RX7 is looking good. I will give you some cool ideas and tips when in MSP in a few weeks.
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Not too shabby for 28 years old.

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Not too bad at all.
 
Not too bad at all. Would look even better with some paint correction.
 
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