Car Detailing Thread
Wash Day!
I have had good use of clay mitts in addition to the traditional clay. Works great for an in between full clay barring.
Foam cannon is so good!
maxw72
Well-known member
Overdraw18;n8637287 said:
What foam cannon do you use?
maxw72
Well-known member
choppstixxx
AK Look-a-like
- Thread starter
- #307
Been awhile but finally got the time to decon/clay/paint correct/seal my Q5. Just have not had a free weekend in forever. Honestly paint was not in bad shape at all, just needed some TLC to get jeweled up.
For those wondering what products I used:
Main buffer is a Flex XC3401 with both a 6" and 5" backing plate. Also a Flex Kompakt PE8 rotary for smaller areas like the pillars etc. using 1"/2"/3" backing plates.
For pads I used mostly Meguiars DMC5 microfiber cutting and Lake Country Orange light cutting pads.
For polish I used Meguiars M100 (only did a one step because I wasn't trying to get the paint 100% perfect, M100 does a great job finishing down)
Sealant was Jescar Powerlock+ topped off with Turtle Wax Ice Seal N Shine (stuff is amazing for the price)
Clay bar was Meguiars C-2000 Professional Detailing Clay Mild (another ridiculously good product that people overlook)
For those wondering what products I used:
Main buffer is a Flex XC3401 with both a 6" and 5" backing plate. Also a Flex Kompakt PE8 rotary for smaller areas like the pillars etc. using 1"/2"/3" backing plates.
For pads I used mostly Meguiars DMC5 microfiber cutting and Lake Country Orange light cutting pads.
For polish I used Meguiars M100 (only did a one step because I wasn't trying to get the paint 100% perfect, M100 does a great job finishing down)
Sealant was Jescar Powerlock+ topped off with Turtle Wax Ice Seal N Shine (stuff is amazing for the price)
Clay bar was Meguiars C-2000 Professional Detailing Clay Mild (another ridiculously good product that people overlook)
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Does the snow foam actually work better?
I like foam better as you spray on and let it "soak" for a minute or two. For me, I use foam as an initial soak and then use my sponge to wash the car. I feel it gets more grime off the car before you put a sponge on it. More grime off the car, the less chance to get any surface scratches etc.
choppstixxx
AK Look-a-like
- Thread starter
- #312
Foam def. is a nice way to pre-soak a dirty car, but find it overkill most of the time. I too have one of the "cheap" Amazon ones which works fine, the real key to good foam is your pressure washer's GPM rating. Higher GPM's = thicker better foam. This year I have been doing Optimum No Rinse washes 90% of the time tho, uses a lot less water and takes me 1/3 the time than a regular "hose" wash. That goes with saying my car is properly coated and protected so any grime comes off with ease.
maxw72
Well-known member
Looking for some help getting some car detailing inventory. What does everyone like? I've been on a Chemical Guys kick lately as I just bought some interior stuff from them but I'm looking at some waxes for the exterior of my two black cars. Any suggestions?
choppstixxx
AK Look-a-like
- Thread starter
- #314
Like golf clubs, sticking to one manufacturer won't necessarily give you the best value/results. Not to sound harsh but I would categorize Chemical Guys products as a gimmicky/middle of the road manufacturer.
What skill level would you categorize your auto detailing prowess? More of a novice or do you have experience with paint decontamination/paint correction & buffing?
Being someone that has owned two black vehicles and professionally detailed for 16+ yrs, getting the most out of black paint has to do with getting it properly paint corrected first and foremost. After that I could suggest some products/methods to properly maintain it.
maxw72
Well-known member
So I'm very much a novice when it comes to car detailing. With one car being a 2012 that is the one that I think needs the most work as I have probably just done the basic wax on it two times a year as it was my wife's car. That car has now become mine when we purchased her 2020 this past month and that is really what I'm looking for, just wanting to keep that investment looking sharp!
choppstixxx
AK Look-a-like
- Thread starter
- #316
Completely understand.
I highly recommend looking up some YouTube videos/info online on using the Porter Cable 7424 random orbital buffer, one of the most easy to use dummy proof entry level buffers out there. I started out with one and loved it, will allow you to tackle not only paint correction but applying sealants/waxes. You usually can buy a kit that gives you a variety of different buffing pads that will get you up and running.
For correction polishes, I always recommend the Meguiars M105/M205 combo. Inexpensive and gets the job done with ease, also Griots Garage makes a nice set of polishes as well.
For a durable sealant, nothing beats Jescar Powerlock+ and then top it off with Collinite 845 liquid wax.
The sooner you get to re-setting your paint by decontaminating/buffing/protecting it properly the easier future maintenance gets.
Here's some pics of my daily Audi Q5 after I decon'd/paint corrected/protected it this past Summer:
And my 17+ yr old Honda S2000 which is Berlina Black. When I bought it 9 yrs ago the paint was hammered:
Also my old Audi A4 which was Moonlight Blue Metallic:
What's a good product to get stains out of seats? I've got a 2011 taurus with the cloth interior. There has been some iced tea spilled on the passenger seat bottom and it stained. The interior is kind of a beige/black/putty gray mix with the seat upholstery being the putty gray.
choppstixxx
AK Look-a-like
- Thread starter
- #318
I live and die by Folex, it works great on pretty much any fabric. I use it on golf hats a lot to get out dirt stains. I've even used it on my microfiber couch etc. You can pick it up locally at Walmart I think.
maxw72
Well-known member
I'll second what Choppstixxx suggested. Folex is a staple in our house with two dogs. It has also gotten grease from a plumbers tool box out of our carpet. It is an amazing product for any stains!
maxw72
Well-known member
Basically. For a deep stain you may want to leave on there for a minute or so but it usually can just be sprayed and wiped.
Awesome!
choppstixxx
AK Look-a-like
- Thread starter
- #323
I always spray on then use my fingernail to agitate and blot dry for smaller stains. If it's a bigger stain I use a soft bristle brush for the agitation.
just8abug
The gene pool could use a little Clorox
What do you recommend for aluminum rims without getting into the sanding down approach? something that's not super labor intensive. I've got a motorcycle with rims that have seen better days but don't have much access to the back rim without taking it off so a lot of rubbing would be a pain. TIA
choppstixxx
AK Look-a-like
- Thread starter
- #325
With polishing motorcycle rims, removing them from the frame makes it the easiest IMO. If you arn't mechanically inclined to do that, you could also put it on a motorcycle jack so it is up a bit higher (so you arn't bending over). Also a foam polishing cone like this in conjunction with an aluminum mag safe polish will probably be your best friend, however you will still have to do some tighter areas by hand. Lastly if they have a lot of tar/build up on them, I would clay bar them before you do any cleaning/polishing.
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