Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Regular vs Stiff for driver shaft

Collapse

Below Nav Bar Ad

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Regular vs Stiff for driver shaft

    Hoping you guys can help settle this debate for me. I am currently looking at a new driver (G30). My swing speed is right on the border between stiff and reg. But usually fitting into stiff every time i buy clubs. However, i am pushing the ball right with almost every driver i own. I have started to transition my swing to a more relaxed controlled swing (smooth) over my 101-104 mph average swing speed. I am now swinging around 95-96 mph.

    I had one fitter at Golfsmith tell me stiff is better as it promotes a draw, and one fitter at GGalaxy tell me i should maybe try regular if i am hitting to the right -slight fade or slice. Now, i am working with a new instructor who is not a fitter, on my driver swing. The last few years i have been pretty straight off the tee, but this year something happened that i can't figure out (after a long cold winter). Everything is pushing or slicing right. My thought is maybe my controlled swing needs a regular shaft.

    Anyway, can someone help settle this debate? My thought would be a regular shaft would keep the face open a bit at my swing speed but the guy at GG is saying that's not the case.

    i am also looking for shaft recommendations for my swing.

  • #2
    Really need to just get on a launch monitor with the same driver head with 2 different shafts and see what the numbers say.
    Driver: Great Big Bertha 10.5*
    Fairway Wood: Covert 2.0 - 3 & 5 Wood
    Hybrid: Idea Super S 4 Hybrid.
    Irons: Apex Cf16 5 - PW
    Wedges: Vokey SM6 52*, 56* & 60*
    Putter: 35" Select Fastback

    Comment


    • #3
      Slice or push usually means open clubface at impact. That also usually means your arms haven't returned the clubface to square at impact. So either your body turn is too fast, or your arms aren't turning over fast enough. Next time, try being more aggressive in squaring the clubface as you turn. That usually works for me. But definitely fix the swing first before getting the shaft. The regular shaft will need even more aggressive squaring of the clubface at impact to prevent a slice.
      You can also mess with your ball position at address, meaning positioning your ball more towards your left foot at address. I swing at around the same speed as you do, I just personally like stiff shafts because I don't like the feel of the clubhead lagging behind in regular shafts.
      That said, regular shafts may add more distance with slower swing speeds as they accentuate the "snap", provided you can square the clubface at impact.
      You can also try a regular shaft with a draw-bias head.
      Still, always better to fix the swing first before buying new gear.
      Last edited by theoverswinger; 07-28-2015, 09:57 AM.
      Alpha 815 Driver
      M1 3-Wood
      i25 3-Wood
      i20 5-Wood
      R11 4 Hybrid
      Jetspeed 5 hybrid
      VRS Covert Forged
      Vokey SM-05 Wedge 50 Satin, SM 06 54 Tour Chrome
      Karsten TR Putter
      Tour V2
      Pro-V1x

      Comment


      • #4
        As far as I know shaft flex has more to do with how you load he shaft not as much to do with swing speed. But I could be wrong
        What's in the bag

        Driver: M1 Hzrdus black 6.5 62g
        3W: M1 rogue silver
        2h: F7 hzrdus black 85g
        Irons: 4ir 716 t-mb 5-pw 716 mb LZ steel 6.5
        Wedges: SM6 52*f, 56*S,60*M
        Putter: itsy bitsy

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by theoverswinger View Post
          You can also mess with your ball position at address, meaning positioning your all more towards your left foot at address.
          You can play with the ball position, but you'll want to move the ball farther back towards your right foot. This will make you swing farther in to out, and provided you can square the club face with your hands, will help you straighten the slice and maybe even hit a draw. When you move the ball too far forward, you have to almost lunge at it to make good contact, which opens your shoulders and causes you to swing out to in, causing a cut/slice.

          Originally posted by Hox30 View Post
          As far as I know shaft flex has more to do with how you load he shaft not as much to do with swing speed. But I could be wrong
          I know a guy who has a SS of about 80, but he casts the club and plays an extra stuff shaft because it's more stable for him through impact. Using a launch monitor would be a best case scenario, but swing speed definitely is not the only factor when choosing shaft flex. Conventional wisdom says to play the most flexible shaft you can, but it all depends on your swing and what you're looking for.
          Driver: Tour Issue Tour Burner, TP RE*AX SuperFast by
          Wood: 909F2 with Prototype 6X3
          Hybrid: Rescue '09 TP 17*, TP Aldila VooDoo
          Hybrid: Rescue '09 TP 22*, TP Fujikura Motore F1
          Irons: Tour Preferred Forged MC '11 5-PW, KBS C-Taper 120 S
          Wedge: Vokey: SM4 50*, 1999 Prototype 54*, Oil Can 58*
          Putter: California Sonoma
          Balls: Tour Preferred X

          Comment


          • #6
            The problem with golf, or rather golf swings, is that no two are alike and each of us 'normal' players rarely get two consecutive swings the same. This alone can be a nightmare for any fitter. These guys would generally have an easy day fitting Westie or Poulter etc as their swings are more consistent.

            When it comes to shafts, that is yet anotehr variable in the pot. Firstly there is no such thing as Reg, Stiff or XStiff. Yes they all have these words emblazened in the paint job, but there is no standard anywhere for shafts. One company's Reg is like another's Stiff. For this reason shafts might just as well not come with any flex codes at all if a player is going to get fitted for them.

            Head shape/size will also have a bearing on SS, which will then poss change the type/flex required.

            Ultimately you need a proper fitting where you can get feedback from numbers with lots of combos, and then once numbers are okay, hit that combo outdoors as launch monitors are only any good up to a point, and need to be judged together with the type of flight/spin/roll you will get in the RW rather than the software world. If you can get to one of the Hackers Driver days I am sure JB would be able to give you some feedback.

            Essentially what I am trying to say is don't get hung up on the numbers(flex, SS or launch numbers) as these are only really a starting point. If you are still having the lessons, stick with them until things calm down in your swing as putting a good shaft on a work in progress swing will not cure very much.

            Driver:
            M1 Rogue Silver 125 70
            Fairway Wood: RBZ Stage 2 14.5 with ATX Tour Blue
            Hybrids: UDI 3 cranked to 18 degrees
            Irons: TP Tour MB with NS Pro Modus 3 125 Prototype
            Wedges: Vokey 52, Cleveland 56 RTX2
            Putter: FGP
            Ball: B-330S


            sigpic : @stourport_photo

            Comment


            • #7
              The one thing that helped me with the slicing is my grip. I never realized what A weak grip I had, I rolled both of my hands over a few inches and it really helped.

              Comment


              • #8
                I don't think flex and clubhead speed should really be anything more than a loose guide. I have a clubhead speed around 104, but Stiff flex always feel kinda loose and whippy to me, But X-Flex I feel like it loads and uncoils through the ball, even when I lay off a bit. I think it has more to do with timing and release than overall speed.
                In Da Bag
                Vapor Speed 9.5
                J40 14
                Bio Cell 3i, Bio Cell+ 4i-pw
                50 Vokey SM5
                54 & 60 X tour Forged
                Anser

                Comment


                • #9
                  Like others have posted before I don't think the shaft flex is really the issue. I recently got fitted for new irons and I ended up not needing new irons but heavier shafts. So I had the fitter look at my driver numbers. I use a stiff flex stock shaft Cobra Fly-Z driver. He found exactly what I knew that I was leaving my face open at impact. We changed to a draw biased which helped and it did sort of. Then we started playing with different shafts. He gave me a heavier shaft and it really helped me smooth out my tempo. It's crazy that a 10 grams heavier shaft would make a world of difference.

                  This post is not to say get a heavier shaft but figure out your issue and get whatever you need to help you.

                  My instructor noticed that my driver swing is less aggressive on the downswing before I even told him about my new shaft. He was working with me to slow my tempo down and to be less jerky on the downswing and take the club head back slower on the back swing. The heavier shaft helped with both.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You got a bunch of horsesh!t advice at the stores.

                    You swing fast enough for stiff. If it feels good, use that. If you like it softer, go regular.
                    G30 SF Tec 10
                    CP1 SuperSpoon 16.5
                    Aeroburner 3h
                    Vapor Flex 25
                    Gmax 4-PW
                    TK 15 48-60
                    Studio Stock 2
                    Pro V1

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jody Keith Wong View Post
                      Really need to just get on a launch monitor with the same driver head with 2 different shafts and see what the numbers say.
                      Agree 100%.

                      Driver: Taylor Made SLDR Mini 12*
                      Woods: Cleveland Black CG 3 (16*) & 7 (20*)
                      Hybrids: Titleist 913H 24* & 27*
                      Irons: Titleist DCI990 6 thru PW
                      Wedges: Titleist Vokey Spin Milled 54* & 56*
                      Putter: MEC Handmade
                      Ball: Callaway Supersoft

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Launch monitor. It will help tremendously.

                        Jack

                        816 BBA DBD 9+1 Fujikura Speeder Pro XLR8 Stiff shaft
                        815 Alpha -14 3 wood- Diamana D+ stiff shaft.
                        2014 big bertha 3 wood set at 16*-Fubuki Z50 stiff shaft.
                        2014 big bertha 5 wood set at 19*-Fubuki Z50 stiff shaft
                        S59 irons- Ping-AWT x stiff shafts 5- pw
                        50 CG 12 wedge
                        53 diadic RTG rusty 588 wedge
                        57 RTG 588 wedge
                        Sabertooth White Ice putter
                        callaway diablo rangefinder

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by theoverswinger View Post
                          Slice or push usually means open clubface at impact.

                          That also usually means your arms haven't returned the clubface to square at impact. So either your body turn is too fast, or your arms aren't turning over fast enough. Next time, try being more aggressive in squaring the clubface as you turn. That usually works for me. But definitely fix the swing first before getting the shaft. The regular shaft will need even more aggressive squaring of the clubface at impact to prevent a slice.

                          You can also mess with your ball position at address, meaning positioning your ball more towards your left foot at address. I swing at around the same speed as you do, I just personally like stiff shafts because I don't like the feel of the clubhead lagging behind in regular shafts.

                          That said, regular shafts may add more distance with slower swing speeds as they accentuate the "snap", provided you can square the clubface at impact.
                          You can also try a regular shaft with a draw-bias head.

                          Still, always better to fix the swing first before buying new gear.

                          Lots of good counsel here.

                          About 85% of where a ball starts is from where the face is pointing at impact. Sounds as if you are open.

                          Open can be okay if your swing path has a 2:1 ratio to the amount of open face.

                          Problem with moving the ball back is that the face will be even more open although you may get a draw because the path is more in to out.

                          BUT if you fix the face and move the ball back, you are looking at disaster, and you've made your angle of attack more negative, meaning more spin. With today's drivers, you want more launch, less spin (tee it so it hits center face at an upward angle of attack)

                          I would relax the arms, move the ball up towards the left toe and synch your arms and body -- that's why you have an instructor -- to help with the swing. There is a drill for closing the face at impact. With relaxed arms, you essentially (flatten the left wrist) turn down the left wrist slightly towards the ground.

                          Shaft Flex - at 95-98 mph (like me) and a moderate transition and load (not too quick, not keeping the lag forever), a stiff flex will offer you more consistency.

                          Try punching drivers on the range at 50-75% speed and 3/4 swing to drill instead of full swings.

                          Good luck with drill and lessons.
                          "It is good sportsmanship not to pick up lost balls while they are still rolling. Mark Twain

                          Once you drive TexPress at an exhilarating 95-105 mph on an almost vacant tollway in the middle of Dallas, you will miss your exit. You're going too fast and not many exits.

                          Jerry -

                          Driver: Ping G400 or Max 9/TPTGolf 17 LKP
                          Fairways: Tour Edge EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd
                          ; GD AD F 55 & 65
                          Hybrid: PXG 22 Hybrid CK Pro Red 70
                          Irons: Mizuno JPX919 Forged 5-GW/Accra 80i
                          Wedges: Titleist SM7 Raw HG 55M, 59D
                          Putter: (Evnroll ER8 To BOS), Bettinardi BB39

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I am in the bracket to be playing X Flex shafts (110mph SS with driver), and I still prefer stiff on all but my 3 wood. I think that it just depends on your preferred feel and what gives you the best results.
                            What's In The Four Five Bag
                            Driver: Big Bertha Alpha 816 DBD w/ Tour AD-BB 6S
                            Fairway Wood Great Big Bertha 816 w/ Tour AD-DI 7X
                            Hybrid: 915H 24* w/ Tour AD-DI 85X
                            Irons: 714 AP2 w/ Tour V
                            Wedges: Edel Custom w/ DG Tour Issue S400
                            Putter: Edel Custom

                            Comment

                            Above Footer Ad

                            Collapse
                            Working...
                            X