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Supertri MWT Setup

SuperStroke
Just wanted to chime in here and say that 8-1-8 helped bring down my launch angle a lot as compared to 1-16-1. Not sure about spin (this is informal testing on the range, not with a launch monitor) but my overall ball fliht is much nicer. I had a lot of trouble with ballooning with this driver last year.
 
SamYYZ said:
Just wanted to chime in here and say that 8-1-8 helped bring down my launch angle a lot as compared to 1-16-1. Not sure about spin (this is informal testing on the range, not with a launch monitor) but my overall ball fliht is much nicer. I had a lot of trouble with ballooning with this driver last year.
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thanks for the tip, my ball flight has been pretty inconsistent lately (probably more due to swing) so I'll give this a try. I think i have t2, c8, h1 in it right now.
 
A weight setup of 2-8-1 would make the driver head considerably lighter than stock. The total is 11g in weights for that setup vs. 18g stock (1-16-1). Not sure how much that would affect swing consistency, etc but it's something to consider. I find the head nice and stable with 8-1-8.
 
SamYYZ said:
A weight setup of 2-8-1 would make the driver head considerably lighter than stock. The total is 11g in weights for that setup vs. 18g stock (1-16-1). Not sure how much that would affect swing consistency, etc but it's something to consider. I find the head nice and stable with 8-1-8.
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Thanks for the tip, I will swap these out and try your 8-1-8 when I get home tomorrow. My schedule is pretty clear this weekend, so I hope to at least hit the range if not get 9-18 in.
 
I had read this chart before, and when brought up in Florida i was questioned.

I said that closing the head, to the L setting increased loft, while setting it towards R, decreased loft.

I know it's backwards of everything you've heard since you open a wedge and it increases loft.

Anyone able to explain this?
 
The amount of spin effected is good to know as i'm looking to lower my spin rate but promote a draw. So i'll try the shaft at neutral to open and weight the heel. I was also wondering how decreasing/increasing the total weight effected the performance of the club. Since they have been out for awhile, I was hoping to hear from someone who has played quite a bit with the adjustments.
 
milehighgolfer said:
The amount of spin effected is good to know as i'm looking to lower my spin rate but promote a draw. So i'll try the shaft at neutral to open and weight the heel. I was also wondering how decreasing/increasing the total weight effected the performance of the club. Since they have been out for awhile, I was hoping to hear from someone who has played quite a bit with the adjustments.
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Do you know what your spin rate is now?
 
milehighgolfer said:
The amount of spin effected is good to know as i'm looking to lower my spin rate but promote a draw. So i'll try the shaft at neutral to open and weight the heel. I was also wondering how decreasing/increasing the total weight effected the performance of the club. Since they have been out for awhile, I was hoping to hear from someone who has played quite a bit with the adjustments.
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I have settled on 10g/4g/8g heel to toe in my ST after many trials. With this setup I have brought my spin rate down and by swapping out the 1g weights the head feels more solid. The reason I added 4g of weight to the stock option was to keep my swingweight the same. My clublength is 45", not the 45 1/2" stock length. 4g of added head weight equals 1/2" in length in a 55g - 65g weighted shaft.

If playing aroung with weights remember 2g of head weight equals 1 swingweight. Lead tape might be the way to go if you want to experiment with weight without having to buy a weight set. They sell stick on weighted buttons which works well. Good luck!

mullie
 
I will be in Golf Galaxy tomarrow and might spend the $20 to go through their monitor session to get all my swing numbers. I set it today at NU and 16-1-1 and hit some dead straight rifle shots. I really liked the ball flight I was getting with the total setup (loft, fct,shaft, ball). I will look for some of the weight buttons to see how a heavier clubhead feels. Are they small enough to fit right on the head of the weights?
As for swingweight, I added length to 45", increased shaft weight to 71 grams, and have midsize grips. What did all that do to my swingweight?

Thanks
 
milehighgolfer said:
I will be in Golf Galaxy tomarrow and might spend the $20 to go through their monitor session to get all my swing numbers. I set it today at NU and 16-1-1 and hit some dead straight rifle shots. I really liked the ball flight I was getting with the total setup (loft, fct,shaft, ball). I will look for some of the weight buttons to see how a heavier clubhead feels. Are they small enough to fit right on the head of the weights?
As for swingweight, I added length to 45", increased shaft weight to 71 grams, and have midsize grips. What did all that do to my swingweight?

Thanks
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Get the length, total weight of your club, and the swing weight when you go to GG. You will need a reference point before you start tinkering. You mention added length to 45", but the stock length is 45 1/2" so did you shorten it to 45"?

Also keep in mind that as a general rule 9g of shaftweight equals 1 swingweight point. However, shafts have different balance points. So a shaft with a high balance point wont add much to the swingweight as anticipated.

Grip weight too will also affect swingweight. Heavier grip = lighter swingweight. Lightweight grip = heavier swingweight.

Again with all the variables I would first find a reference point of your "starting club specs" then start tinkering. My suggestion for MWT clubs is to tie down your length, static weight, and swingweight first. One you get that set, then start moving the weights around to fine tune. It took me 2 months to finally get settled on my "likes", but it was worth it. I haven't tinkered since. Once I found that 22g of added weight worked best for me, I moved weight around and fine tuned. You will notice a different feel with every combination.

The weights I used were about a 1/2" square. Didn't put them on the screws, but close to them.

Good luck!

mullie
 
I just remeasured my club and it is 45" total length. I added 1/2" to the stock shaft that came out of it thinking I would be at the 1/2 over length I wanted. The club I bought must have had a cut down shaft. Guess it I deserve that for not doing my homework first. I might buy another shaft now and have it cut longer to see how it plays at 46 or 46.5". How much distance would I pick up with another inch of shaft? Hopefully Golfsmith still has the Proforce V2's for $16!
At least I have a point I can fall back on now that I feel good with.
 
I just changed from a 8t-1c-6h to 8t-4c-6h setup to hopefully add a bit more spin to let the ball fly a bit higher. Will report back my findings
 
I jhang changed mine all summer. Back in the spring I had it to stop my fade/slice but now if anything I hook/draw the ball so I'm about to mix and match with it for my range session later
 
dubbledxu said:
I just changed from a 8t-1c-6h to 8t-4c-6h setup to hopefully add a bit more spin to let the ball fly a bit higher. Will report back my findings
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I took my new 8-4-6 weight layout to the range Thursday and I was KILLING it. The added weight to the center port helped get the ball a bit higher. While its only a range session, I cant wait to get this out on the course to see how it holds up.
 
You guys have me thinking and that's spawned a few questions... Can someone remind me what comes standard? Is it two 1's and an 8? I think I've got it set 1-8-1 cause I wanted higher trajectory. What weights should I pick up to give me some more options? Does anyone know if these weights would work in the ghost spider putter if I buy it? Hate to have to buy another over-priced weight kit.
 
Flooder said:
You guys have me thinking and that's spawned a few questions... Can someone remind me what comes standard? Is it two 1's and an 8? I think I've got it set 1-8-1 cause I wanted higher trajectory. What weights should I pick up to give me some more options? Does anyone know if these weights would work in the ghost spider putter if I buy it? Hate to have to buy another over-priced weight kit.
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1-16-1 is standard, and, the weights will work in the spider putters, or, you could pilfer the weights from a spider, if you have a spider, and, just wanted to do a little testing
 
bellken said:
1-16-1 is standard, and, the weights will work in the spider putters, or, you could pilfer the weights from a spider, if you have a spider, and, just wanted to do a little testing
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Thanks, that helps. I guess I should pick up some 4's and 8's to have some different options.
 
Understanding the chart:

Understanding the chart:

:call-me:FACT: When you open the club face you increase loft, when you close the club face, you decrease loft.FCT Adjustments:Golfers here miss the vital point of how the adjustment actually works.. All the FCT adjustment results are paramount to having the club face square at address to the intended line of swing.So if you make an adjustment to OPEN the club face, you will notice the "club face open" at address when the club head is rested behind the ball for your intended line of swing.To make your adjustment work, you will physically have to roll the club face closed to square the club face on the intended line of swing.This result is a decrease in loft . The opposite is true for closing the club face with the FCT adjustment.F.Y.I The base plate on the R11 is adjustable to allow the club to look square when placed behind the ball after a shaft position change. It saves the golfer having to make the adjustment to square the club to the target at address.
Bomb_n_Gouge said:
1. The chart above says opening the face decreases effective loft and vice versa. This is completely counterintuitive to what I know about all other clubs so is it wrong or am I?The chart is correct2. If both N and NU give you a square face but NU has a 2* upright lie angle, am I correct that like irons, that more upright setup would encourage more of a draw/straighten out a fade?Upright lies will give you a slight draw bias3. What have people found works best with the weights for different issues?Weights move the center of gravity, think of it as where you move the center of gravity is where the ball will fly4. Any good links to charts/instructions?trial by error :D5. Other things I should know?not really anything I can think of, if you are looking for more spin keep the COG back in the head and maybe look into a different shaft. Great thing about the R line is being able to change out shafts easily.Good luck!
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R9 Supertri MWT:

R9 Supertri MWT:

I have persevered with this club for some time now, to try and stop the ballooning of the shot and promote more roll. This club by nature is a back-weighted club that promotes high launch and high spin rates. Before you put the club in the bin ( I was very close) I swapped to a stiffer tip shaft Aldila VS Proto "By You" 60-R, and configured the club as follows: 10grm H; 1 gm C; 8 grm T and went to +1 deg on the FCT.
This has given the club some good feel, while trying to keep close to the original 18 grm (16+1+1) setup. The ball flight has been lowered and the roll has been increased remarkably. Definitely the 10 grm H and the 8grm T made it a much better club as compared with the 16-1-1 set-up. The moral of the story is, if you've got ballooning and no run, keep the weight away from the centre port apart from the 1 grm to plug the hole. Try some different Heel and Toe weights but keep in mind the swing weight and balance of the club when selecting weights.
 
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