maxw72
Well-known member
Ken, That is on the list of new tools I would like to purchase. I currently have a miter saw but I'd like to move to a larger, more quality saw.
Woodworking / Furniture Building
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2013
- Messages
- 14,140
- Reaction score
- 11,863
- Location
- Usually on an airplane
- Handicap
- 2 Children
I picked up a Kobalt 10" dual bevel miter saw a couple of years ago for light work. It has really become the work horse of my garage. I use it for all kinds of cuts, and it has saved my ass many times.
maxw72
Well-known member
Off the top of my head I believe I have a 10" but I don't have the dual bevel which makes it difficult to do any larger cuts. The dual bevel is vital!
Got back to this to finish up shaping the seat
Slow progress. Leg joints have been cut and fit to mark the transitions into the seat:
Nicegy525
Well-known member
I’m not very talented and working with wood but I enjoy it. My buddy and I made a work bench for me drill press and band saw because the cheap plastic table they were on was sagging big time in the middle making it dangerous to use.
It isn’t much but what’s notable is we were both pretty drunk while making it and it still turned out pretty sturdy lol!
2’x4’ with a 3/4” plywood top. Hung two 2x4’s in the middle like floor joists for extra middle support.
It isn’t much but what’s notable is we were both pretty drunk while making it and it still turned out pretty sturdy lol!
2’x4’ with a 3/4” plywood top. Hung two 2x4’s in the middle like floor joists for extra middle support.
Back legs taking shape:
And getting glued onto the seat:
Next up is to shape and attach the front legs.
And getting glued onto the seat:
Next up is to shape and attach the front legs.
The front legs get shaped. The blocks on top will join the legs to the arms:
The transition blocks get sawn to make blending them into the arms a bit easier, and then the front legs get glued into place.
The transition blocks get sawn to make blending them into the arms a bit easier, and then the front legs get glued into place.
Back to work on the crest rail (headrest). It began as six blocks coopered to form a rough curve
The initial form will get sawn into a smooth curve 11/4” thick using the bandsaw. It can be done by hand but this typically leaves a wavy surface needing a lot of finishing work get smooth. To avoid this extra work I built a curve cutting jig:
The upper part of the fixture carries the rough headrest and swings through an arc. There are two holes 1 1/4” apart on the lower part of the fixture that the pin on the upper drops into. The rough part is fixed to the angles with some double sticky tape and then “tack welded” with hot melt glue. Here is the backside (pin in farthest hole) ready to cut:
Sawing the backside is as simple as swinging the upper fixture around the pin. Once the back is cut the fixture can be moved to the inside pin location to complete sawing the curves:
There is still sanding to be done, but much less than if I had tried to cut this by hand. Next will be cutting this to final dimensions for fitting to the back legs.
The initial form will get sawn into a smooth curve 11/4” thick using the bandsaw. It can be done by hand but this typically leaves a wavy surface needing a lot of finishing work get smooth. To avoid this extra work I built a curve cutting jig:
The upper part of the fixture carries the rough headrest and swings through an arc. There are two holes 1 1/4” apart on the lower part of the fixture that the pin on the upper drops into. The rough part is fixed to the angles with some double sticky tape and then “tack welded” with hot melt glue. Here is the backside (pin in farthest hole) ready to cut:
Sawing the backside is as simple as swinging the upper fixture around the pin. Once the back is cut the fixture can be moved to the inside pin location to complete sawing the curves:
There is still sanding to be done, but much less than if I had tried to cut this by hand. Next will be cutting this to final dimensions for fitting to the back legs.
The headrest has been cut and fitted to the back legs. Now I need to do some more layout work for shaping the top and bottom edges, and for laying out and drilling the holes to accept the back splats.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2015
- Messages
- 24,445
- Reaction score
- 13,062
- Location
- Southeast, South Dakota
- Handicap
- 7.6
Do any of you guys have experience with a wood CNC machine like X Carve or Shapeoko? I'm pondering something like that just curious if anyone has used one.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2015
- Messages
- 24,445
- Reaction score
- 13,062
- Location
- Southeast, South Dakota
- Handicap
- 7.6
Christmas gift time.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2015
- Messages
- 24,445
- Reaction score
- 13,062
- Location
- Southeast, South Dakota
- Handicap
- 7.6
That is done really impressive work!
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2015
- Messages
- 24,445
- Reaction score
- 13,062
- Location
- Southeast, South Dakota
- Handicap
- 7.6
Just one or two end grain cutting boards for our parents. After that I need to break down and finally build my mobile bench.
Probably missed the post but what Wood species you using
Maple with some walnut accent on the back splats.
SIL still looking for that rocking chair....
Got some cherry waiting but I don’t think I have templates for a chair that small ?
Add a booster seat I guess