Car Detailing Thread

[GraniteRoost]

Ive usually been on top of my cars with basic wash, clay, polish and wax but gotten a little away this last year.

Im going to jump into a polisher with the Port Cable one and start there. My question is on the pads I need to use for each process after clay?

This was going to be my process, please advise if I need to change.

Griot One step
Jesco Power Lock
Colinite 845

Thanks in advance

Like everything, "it depends". You can use a heavier pad with the one step and help it cut faster, or I would probably start off with a light polishing pad and the one step to see how well it does. If you are not getting swirls out with that setup, maybe re-evaluate.

The last two you want a finishing pad or waxing pad.

I have a good selection of Lake and Griots pads... mostly foam for general use, a couple microfiber for faster correcting. I picked one OEM (i.e. Lake) as a start, and learned their system...

 

[tahoebum]

I've usually been on top of my cars with basic wash, clay, polish and wax but gotten a little away this last year.

Im going to jump into a polisher with the Port Cable one and start there. My question is on the pads I need to use for each process after clay?

This was going to be my process, please advise if I need to change.

Griot One step
Jesco Power Lock
Colinite 845

Thanks in advance

Griot One-Step is a 2-in-1 polish and synthetic wax so it may interfere with the Jesco Power Lock if you don't remove it before applying the Jesco. I like to use a solvent-based wax/adhesive remover after the polish and clay bar step and before applying any sealant or wax just to make sure the clear coat is completely clean and free of any contaminants. You may want to go with the Griots correcting cream instead of the one step. If it's a darker color paint I'd use their perfecting cream as well after the correcting cream. All of the polishes and compounds out there have abrasives in them and every company makes at least a few different ones that are courser(coupounds) to finer(polishes). Think of a compound as having 2000-5000 grit abrasive in it, a polish is about 4000-8500 grit. A handful of compaines make super fine polishes(over 10,000 grit) for use as a final polish step on darker colored cars such as black or midnight blue that show swirls easier. By far the most used super fine polish by professional detailers and body/paint shops is 3M Ultrafine Machine Polish but it is expensive - about $32 for a pint. You don't need an ultrafine polish on a medium or lighter paint color. Be careful when using a machine polish especially on a rotary buffer, you can do a lot damage quickly and burn right through the clearcoat if you don't what your doing. DIYers should really stick to a random orbit polisher. A decent corded one can be had for $150 and the good cordless ones are about $500.

I'm not familiar with the Jesco Power Lock or Colinite 845. Are they Ceramic or Graphene infused Ceramic? I had my wife's car ceramic coated almost 3 years ago, and it just started losing its hydrophobic properties in the last few months.

I've about to do a full detail/polish/ceramic coating on all four of our vehicles and have ordered some new ceramic coatings I haven't tried before.

So far, I've selected Meguiars Hybrid Ceramix Liquid Wax, Adams Ceramix Paint Coating Kit, and Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic+ Graphene paste wax. I'm going to add another one, but I'm waiting to hear back from an old customer from California who owns his own detail shops for his recommendation. I spent most of my career working for 3M Automotive Aftermarket, calling on about 400 body/custom paint shops, detail shops, and paint protection installers and I'd be silly not to tap into the knowledge of my customers that make their living detailing, painting, and customizing cars.

I might select a couple more products and do a couple of cars with one coating on the drivers side and another on the passenger side to see how they compare six months or a year down the road.

 

[Tj_11]

Like everything, "it depends". You can use a heavier pad with the one step and help it cut faster, or I would probably start off with a light polishing pad and the one step to see how well it does. If you are not getting swirls out with that setup, maybe re-evaluate.

The last two you want a finishing pad or waxing pad.

I have a good selection of Lake and Griots pads... mostly foam for general use, a couple microfiber for faster correcting. I picked one OEM (i.e. Lake) as a start, and learned their system...

I ordered a 6 pack, 2 orange, blue, green and 2 blacks.

To tahoe bums comment, the Colinite is a carnauba wax and the Jescar is a synthetic blend. Thanks for correcting me in the Griots all in one, I misread it as a 1st step so I assumed it was a light compound.

I don't know enough about the ceramic stuff, except for a buddy had his whole truck done. Ill look into them more for protection later on.

 

[Mark_UK]

Ive usually been on top of my cars with basic wash, clay, polish and wax but gotten a little away this last year.

Im going to jump into a polisher with the Port Cable one and start there. My question is on the pads I need to use for each process after clay?

This was going to be my process, please advise if I need to change.

Griot One step
Jesco Power Lock
Colinite 845

Thanks in advance

Im not familiar with Griot One Step, but it appears to be a sealant. So the process you have at the moment is sealant, followed by sealant, followed by polish. Depending on the colour of the car, my step was always, wash, clay, wash, polish, glaze then wax or sealant.
I assume you are planning to use a porter cable DA polisher? With those products you’ve listed, you won’t get any benefit in using the DA other than saving some elbow grease. If you are planning to get the paintwork popping again, you should be looking at a polishing pad and polish (nothing too aggressive if you are fairly new to machine polishing, although it’s difficult to screw up with a DA). www.detailingworld.co.uk is an excellent rescourse.

 

[JB]

The One Step is an AIO (All in One) that delivers light polish, gentle cleaning and then a sealant.
If your plan is to use that, go with that first, followed by Power Lock and then after curing, add the 845, which is still a fantastic wax. Collinite works great, but is a bear to use compared to many out there. It's definitely a final step product.

The One Step won't completely rid of swirls or light scratches, but does have some polish to it. It will also fill well, so its not a bad base. Similar to Klasse AIO but easier to work with for those that remember that product from years ago.

 

[GraniteRoost]

Im not familiar with Griot One Step, but it appears to be a sealant. So the process you have at the moment is sealant, followed by sealant, followed by polish. Depending on the colour of the car, my step was always, wash, clay, wash, polish, glaze then wax or sealant.
I assume you are planning to use a porter cable DA polisher? With those products you’ve listed, you won’t get any benefit in using the DA other than saving some elbow grease. If you are planning to get the paintwork popping again, you should be looking at a polishing pad and polish (nothing too aggressive if you are fairly new to machine polishing, although it’s difficult to screw up with a DA). www.deatilingworld.co.uk is an excellent rescourse.

Griots One Step is a polish and sealant. I used a similar product, Griot's Finishing Sealant from their BOSS system last fall on my wife's car. I wanted a quickie touch up and seal, and to try something new. It works pretty decent on the smaller stuff.

 

[Mark_UK]

Sealant under wax, especially one like Collinite is pretty much a redundant measure. Extra work for no benefit. I’d make the top product either a sealant or a wax personally.

 

[JB]

Sealant under wax, especially one like Collinite is pretty much a redundant measure. Extra work for no benefit. I’d make the top product either a sealant or a wax personally.

Sealant won't bond to most waxes, so the only option generally speaking is as a top coat. By doing so, it offers a bit of what purists call the "warm look".

 

[Mark_UK]

Sealant won't bond to most waxes, so the only option generally speaking is as a top coat. By doing so, it offers a bit of what purists call the "warm look".

I never mentioned putting sealant over a wax. One or the other. If you put a wax over a sealant, you get no extra benefit as the sealant will be removed when prepping the paint work for the new layer of wax. Heard of a wet look, never a warm look.
If people thought shafts were a rabbit hole, try getting into detailing LOL.

 

[JB]

I never mentioned putting sealant over a wax. One or the other. If you put a wax over a sealant, you get no extra benefit as the sealant will be removed when prepping the paint work for the new layer of wax. Heard of a wet look, never a warm look.
If people thought shafts were a rabbit hole, try getting into detailing LOL.

Warm and glow are commonly used with carnauba. When I did cars through college (and after) at our shop, it was nearly always our final step. Back then it was P21S or 845 on top of Zaino, FMJ or Klasse. Depending on products used, wax can bond to a sealant, but rarely the other way. Tons of great wax toppers for those that like the look.

 

[Mark_UK]

Warm and glow are commonly used with carnauba. When I did cars through college (and after) at our shop, it was nearly always our final step. Back then it was P21S or 845 on top of Zaino, FMJ or Klasse. Depending on products used, wax can bond to a sealant, but rarely the other way. Tons of great wax toppers for those that like the look.

Must be an American thing. I’ve always heard it referred to as a wet look, as it looks like the paint is literally dripping off the car. Victoria concours was always my favourite. Great finish, pretty good durability and I loved applying it using my hands rather than a pad.

 

[Tj_11]

Ok so if I replace the Griots all in one with the Griots Correcting cream I will have something with a little bit more bite to take our the swirls and minor imperfections?

Then to follow with the Jescar and Colinite gives me a good starter combination.

 

[TRyan]

@JB What are you using for your foam cannon currently? I got a cheap one off of Amazon, and while it has served its purpose, it doesn't really distribute foam all that well, and runs out of liquid before it even makes a full pass on my truck.

Curious if you are enjoying the one you are using, and which brand it is.

 

[JB]

@JB What are you using for your foam cannon currently? I got a cheap one off of Amazon, and while it has served its purpose, it doesn't really distribute foam all that well, and runs out of liquid before it even makes a full pass on my truck.

Curious if you are enjoying the one you are using, and which brand it is.

I normally would use our pressure washer, which is a Green Works electric 2300 psi. Its not whisper quiet, so when I want to wash outside early on the weekend, I will use the Torq Professional Snow Foam or even have the Torq R1, which is a cheap model. They work. Not great, but they work and are better than not having one at least for sudsing the vehicle.

Much of the year, I use Optimum No Rinse however and do it right in the garage. If this is a method one likes, I strongly suggest a detail seat, because of the awkward angles. Then again at my age, I recommend them to anybody just for wheels and tires alone.

 

[TRyan]

I normally would use our pressure washer, which is a Green Works electric 2300 psi. Its not whisper quiet, so when I want to wash outside early on the weekend, I will use the Torq Professional Snow Foam or even have the Torq R1, which is a cheap model. They work. Not great, but they work and are better than not having one at least for sudsing the vehicle.

Much of the year, I use Optimum No Rinse however and do it right in the garage. If this is a method one likes, I strongly suggest a detail seat, because of the awkward angles. Then again at my age, I recommend them to anybody just for wheels and tires alone.

I have the exact same Pressure Washer. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[gkeller813]

One day and 2 nights to wash, clay bar, polish, glaze and ceramic boost to finish the truck. Takes a long time to detail the outside of a full size truck, but love the way it looks in the end. Sorry for the pictures, bad lighting in the garage by the time the sun goes down.

 

[Motopilot]

Just did this car yesterday. Never been touched in 4 years. Maybe was waxed once. Foam wash, clay, polish, and then a hyper wax semi ceramic I’ve been using from chemical guys. Car looked amazing. I’m doing his Maserati next week.

 

[campilobaxter]

I just washed my car today. Meguiar's gold wash, two bucket method. Nothing else, just removing a lot of dust and other junk. Problem is, I collected something strange on the car a few weeks ago, must have been while at work. It looked like an over-spray of some kind, I don't know what it is.

Anyway, about half of it still remained on the car after the wash. I didn't scrub it, but it seems like it would take a lot of elbow grease to completely remove. Any recommendations for a product and/or method to remove something stubborn like that?

 

[JB]

I just washed my car today. Meguiar's gold wash, two bucket method. Nothing else, just removing a lot of dust and other junk. Problem is, I collected something strange on the car a few weeks ago, must have been while at work. It looked like an over-spray of some kind, I don't know what it is.

Anyway, about half of it still remained on the car after the wash. I didn't scrub it, but it seems like it would take a lot of elbow grease to completely remove. Any recommendations for a product and/or method to remove something stubborn like that?

Do you have a rotary or polisher? Start light with something like an all in one and if it doesn’t work go to a light compound?

 

[tahoebum]

I just washed my car today. Meguiar's gold wash, two bucket method. Nothing else, just removing a lot of dust and other junk. Problem is, I collected something strange on the car a few weeks ago, must have been while at work. It looked like an over-spray of some kind, I don't know what it is.

Anyway, about half of it still remained on the car after the wash. I didn't scrub it, but it seems like it would take a lot of elbow grease to completely remove. Any recommendations for a product and/or method to remove something stubborn like that?

I would try a little lacquer thinner on a clean detail cloth and if that doesn't work the @JB recommendation above should work as well. Some of the compounds and polishes have a hot enough solvent in them to remove over-spray even by hand.

 

[Junkyard]

I just washed my car today. Meguiar's gold wash, two bucket method. Nothing else, just removing a lot of dust and other junk. Problem is, I collected something strange on the car a few weeks ago, must have been while at work. It looked like an over-spray of some kind, I don't know what it is.

Anyway, about half of it still remained on the car after the wash. I didn't scrub it, but it seems like it would take a lot of elbow grease to completely remove. Any recommendations for a product and/or method to remove something stubborn like that?

Get yourself a clay bar and lube. If it's overspray the clay will take care of it. Bonus is it'll also get everything else that's landed on and bonded to the paint. Even a "brand new" vehicle will turn a new piece of clay dark brown at minimum. Your paint will feel smooth as glass when you're done.

 

[JB]

Fresh off a drive to FL and back, the car was dirty. Quick wash outside and all clean again. Driving to Chicago next week, so on Saturday will put another layer of Adam’s Graphene Spray.

 

[JB]

Sealant done. Ready for drive to Chicago next week.

 

[Kmench]

Hey @JB with using the Adams spray have you seen where it has protected the paint from a scratch or anything? Really looking into the ceramic and graphene coatings and a lot of reviews Im seeing is saying how awesome the graphene is but time will tell if it holds up. The Ethos brand says it last for 3 yrs, and Adams for about 7, but they are not the spray. This stuff is kinda confusing lol.

 

[JB]

Hey @JB with using the Adams spray have you seen where it has protected the paint from a scratch or anything? Really looking into the ceramic and graphene coatings and a lot of reviews Im seeing is saying how awesome the graphene is but time will tell if it holds up. The Ethos brand says it last for 3 yrs, and Adams for about 7, but they are not the spray. This stuff is kinda confusing lol.

The spray is just a more diluted version. Regardless if it is ceramic or Graphene. The reason I went graphene is because ceramic was prone to water spotting for me. In several months and a lot of miles, I have not had that with the graphene as of yet.

FWIW those year numbers are a bit misleading regardless of ingredients. That would be garage kept and never encountering any elements. Expect most ceramics to last over a year. Same with graphene ceramic, if not longer.