Jaybanks9

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I have a r11 with the stock blur stiff shaft. Whenever I try to hit it hard since I bought it, it results in a hook. If I baby it it's decent. Could this be that the flex is too weak? I've never had this issue. Never even hit a hook before this driver
 
I have a r11 with the stock blur stiff shaft. Whenever I try to hit it hard since I bought it, it results in a hook. If I baby it it's decent. Could this be that the flex is too weak? I've never had this issue. Never even hit a hook before this driver

Not familiar with the specific weight configurations, but the weights in the heel and toe may be off. Talk to someone familiar with the club to tell you what weights to use. I know TGW sells the weights. Is the ASP closed? Loft lowered? If you set everything to neitral and have the weights the same sizes, might be a swing fault.
 
I have an R11s with the Miyazaki White shaft. I have the face on O+ and if I get after it my miss is a big hook. I have a G20 with the TFC Tour shaft and my miss is a high fade. I have yet to hit a hook with the G20. I do have the tendency to come inside a little too much, which results in a heavy draw or a hook. Shaft flex will have a little to do with it, imo. A bigger factor will be the torque rating on a shaft. The higher the torque, the easier the head is to turn/release. I don't remember off hand as to what the torque rating is on the Blur. I've put several shafts in my R11s...The Miyazaki has a higher torque and turns over a lot easier than my Kai'li which has a lower torque, thus resulting in two different misses. Miyazaki = left, and Kai'li = right. The shafts do have a different weight as well, Miya = 56, Kai'li = 70.
 
Thanks guys. I'll try a different shaft at a shap to see and work on making sure to swing thru. I have my r11 set to heavy weight in the heel, open face, and std loft (9*).
 
Thanks guys. I'll try a different shaft at a shap to see and work on making sure to swing thru. I have my r11 set to heavy weight in the heel, open face, and std loft (9*).

Swap the weights so that the heavier weight (should be 10 grams) is in the toe and the lighter weight (should be 1 gram) is in the heel, that will give your club fade bias instead of draw bias. That may improve things for you.
 
I have a r11 with the stock blur stiff shaft. Whenever I try to hit it hard since I bought it, it results in a hook. If I baby it it's decent. Could this be that the flex is too weak? I've never had this issue. Never even hit a hook before this driver

Could you possibly be coming over the top on the hard swings causing a smother-hook?

I know this was/is the problem with mine when I try to hit it hard, but that was the case with any driver I ever had. I have the heavy weight on the toe and I play the ball further forward if I feel the need to hit it hard.Playing the ball up front more makes you swing down the line and hold off the hit.
 
I think you could be right hitman. I did work on addressing the ball with my arms further away from my body and it did help. I'll get it figured out sooner than later.
 
Could you possibly be coming over the top on the hard swings causing a smother-hook?

I know this was/is the problem with mine when I try to hit it hard, but that was the case with any driver I ever had. I have the heavy weight on the toe and I play the ball further forward if I feel the need to hit it hard.Playing the ball up front more makes you swing down the line and hold off the hit.

I was going to say that...when I really try to go after a shot right now I get too much over the top and hit a pull hook...for me, tempo is everything.
 
I find when I get after it with my old R11 with the Blur, if my wrist broke down even slightly at the top, I would hook the crap out of it. With the R11S, the shaft seems better (I have always hit Aldila shafts and loved them). The NV was a great shaft that seemed to fit me well.
 
I have noticed the wrist breakdown issue. I think I've straightened it out by standing further away from the ball, stand a tad open, and work on the wrists at the top. It's been better after 100's of balls with my driver this weekend. I've at least taken the hook out. Occasionally it's a big fade. I'm looking forward to getting fitted for something soon.
 
Try this on the range - open the face a little at address, that's all. This allows you to still line up 'square' which is probably actually closed, and hit that hook when you want to but keep it straighter the rest of the time with a slightly open face.
 
Shaft flex and swing (coming over the top) probably have more to do with it, but for me a closed clubface or an open clubface will cause me to start my swing different than usual. For me an open clubface will cause a big hook ( maybe see it open and make sure I close it) a closed clubface doesn't cause a fade but not a big hook either.
 
Shaft flex and swing (coming over the top) probably have more to do with it, but for me a closed clubface or an open clubface will cause me to start my swing different than usual. For me an open clubface will cause a big hook ( maybe see it open and make sure I close it) a closed clubface doesn't cause a fade but not a big hook either.

This affects me the same way. Anytime I try to set up with an open or closed face, my subconscious tries to square it back up at contact causing all sorts of problems.
 
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