Moving Driver Shafts

Nippon Shafts

sherwoodnatl

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Hello all

I was wondering if you could tell me if I could move the shaft in my driver to another driver. I plan on buying a Titleist 910 D3 and want to move the Blue Board in it.
Will I have to fork over the 300 for a new one, or can I move it?
 

Bridges

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Do you know the tip size of your blue board? If you can get me that or tell me the exact name of the shaft I can tell you.

Edit: Well looks like from the posts below me that you should be good to go. I was just going to try to fine out the tip dia of that shaft and find the specs on the D3 to see if they matched up. Goodluck, hope it works for you!
 

Puttin4Bird

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I can't speak about the Titleist 910 specifically but I have swapped after market shafts in drivers before with no issues at all. I was under the impression that it was a one and done sort of thing but was later educated that a good club maker/repairman shouldn't have an issue with this. Good luck, you're going to have quite a whipping stick!!
 

jholm007

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You can definately move it, but if the shafting depth of the Titleist head is shorter than your TM, it may look a little funny. You may have to tip trim the old shaft to make it look correct. It will make the shaft play stiffer as well. Best bet is to get with a knowledgable club fitter and have him pull the old shaft and then tell you. He may even be able to use a ferrule to make it look right. May cost you $50 bucks or so, but it would be worth it to not have to buy another shaft.
 

Chawnm

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My curiousity comes in regards to the adjustable sleeves on the 910. My understanding, even with the FCT sleeve, is they are a PAIN to remove without ruining the sleeve or keeping it in presentable condition. With that in mind, I would be careful. First off, if the club-maker makes a mistake and ruins the sleeve, THEN WHAT? Not sure Titleist is going to cover that under their warranty.

I seen those new Titleist SureFit sleeves, and they are huge in size compared to TM's FCT sleeve.

As much as we want to save money, there is the risk of LOSING IT as well. Not sure about Titlest policy, but if similar to TM, you lose you warranty on club once custom work is done by anyone besides them. Of course, on the lines of removing SureFit sleeve, not simply changing grips. If someone knows otherwise, then please post facts in this regard. As I am very interested in this driver myself, but have a particular shaft i would like installed in it.
 

JB

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I have removed FCT sleeves and put them on new shafts a dozen times. You can also buy a new tip at a few places now which means you do not have to worry too much about removal and keeping it perfect. Remove and replace is always easier. With the Titleist sleeve, I would be SHOCKED if they sold them aftermarket at the launch of the driver.

Its funny you say that, because the local pro here plays a blue board and on the launch monitor could not get that combination working right (blue board & 910) when we did our driver test last week.
 

Chunkylover77

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There is a guy who I have purchased stuff from before who is selling 910 tips. They are pretty expensive though. If you are ordering the driver new the upcharge for the BB is $150 which is not terrible.
 

TC

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There is a guy who I have purchased stuff from before who is selling 910 tips. They are pretty expensive though. If you are ordering the driver new the upcharge for the BB is $150 which is not terrible.
yeah, the 910 tips are out there, but they're gonna cost you a pretty penny. i agree w/CL, order your 910 w/ the blueboard already in it. the upcharge for that shaft will cost you what it will for the tip, which you then have to have put onto your existing shaft, blah, blah, blah. just makes more sense to order your 910 w/ the shaft you want, and it's just as cost effective if not more. that makes your 910 about a $550 driver, and imo, no way it's worth that.
 

GolfTEC

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I have spoken fairly in depth with our local rep and he told me the difference between the stock Blue Board that says "built for Titleist" and the after market, $300, Blue Board are almost the same shaft. The difference between the two is that they have different torque readings for different flexes. If you compare a stiff BB to an after-market stiff BB, they are almost identical. What happens in the Titleist version is that the torque increases in the R flex a bit more than in the after-market. That helps the slower swinger square the club face. If you aren't playing the 83 gram version of the aftermarket BB, you can get the one that comes in the driver and you shouldn't see a difference.
 

TC

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I have spoken fairly in depth with our local rep and he told me the difference between the stock Blue Board that says "built for Titleist" and the after market, $300, Blue Board are almost the same shaft. The difference between the two is that they have different torque readings for different flexes. If you compare a stiff BB to an after-market stiff BB, they are almost identical. What happens in the Titleist version is that the torque increases in the R flex a bit more than in the after-market. That helps the slower swinger square the club face. If you aren't playing the 83 gram version of the aftermarket BB, you can get the one that comes in the driver and you shouldn't see a difference.

it sure is nice having you around. i appreciate you taking the time out to share your wisdom. i think people get caught up in the "made for" or after market differences.
 

Chunkylover77

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I have spoken fairly in depth with our local rep and he told me the difference between the stock Blue Board that says "built for Titleist" and the after market, $300, Blue Board are almost the same shaft. The difference between the two is that they have different torque readings for different flexes. If you compare a stiff BB to an after-market stiff BB, they are almost identical. What happens in the Titleist version is that the torque increases in the R flex a bit more than in the after-market. That helps the slower swinger square the club face. If you aren't playing the 83 gram version of the aftermarket BB, you can get the one that comes in the driver and you shouldn't see a difference.
I have read that if you tip the made for shafts an inch that they will play closer to the real deal. Would you happen to know if that is true? Thanks
 

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