One time iron set reshaft tools needed

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dthrog00

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I think the Dynamic Golds I have in my irons may be too heavy and I'd benefit from using graphite. I'd plan to reshaft 4-GW and a 56* wedge that I have. Reputable shops around me cost $20/club for the service and once you add shafts + grips I would be better off buying new clubs as my irons are not expensive.

The useful tools I already have are an air compressor and electric drill with bits.

I'd be happy to take advice from anyone who has experience with the tooling and supplies necessary. I've watched some McClub videos to get some background.

Shaft removal:
Heat gun is $30 at Golfworks. I also saw a Youtube video where a guy used his stove top also, but I'm married and think my wife would wish bodily harm on me if I tried this.
Might need a knife to remove the ferrule although I think I can improvise and figure something out for this step.

Prep:
Brush bit to clean out the hosel, I need to figure out what this is. I might be able to use a drill bit as an alternative?
Rod saw bit for hacksaw and masking tape to cut the shafts, will probably get from hardware store. Get shafts back to square with sandpaper.
Sand paper to prep the shaft.

Assembly:
Need shafts, grips, and ferrules.
Epoxy, 50 mL cartridge is $6.49 @ GW.
Sand paper and acetone for the ferrule

Grips:
Plan to use air compressor, don't have a vice so will need to figure out how to support the club.

Thoughts/comments?

Dave
 

OGputtnfool

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Box cutter will take care of the ferrule. The stove could work, but the heat gun is a good idea. A vise with a clamp is the preferred method, but if you wanna go cheap, you're pulling steel shafts, and you have access to a helper, then you could heat and pull the steel shafts without the vise, if necessary. You'll obviously need epoxy. The sand paper should make quick work of prepping the steel shaft and if you get the ferrules to match the irons, then you may not need to worry about turning them down.

I have successfully regripped a club (putter) with help from my son using an air compressor. Not the preferred method and will take a bit longer, but doable.
 

Junkyard

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Since you're pulling steel shafts, you could probably get away with a propane torch if you already have one. That would save you the cost of the heat gun, although once you go graphite you'll love the heat gun when it comes time to re-grip. A second person with a welding glove on can remove the head whilst you wield the torch, or vice versa.
 

dthrog00

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I've cooled on the idea of reshafting. I'm going to stick with what I have or buy the rest of a set of a demo club I have coming. I've been hitting the DGs fairly well lately and I want to leave that set intact.

Dave
 

OGputtnfool

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I've cooled on the idea of reshafting. I'm going to stick with what I have or buy the rest of a set of a demo club I have coming. I've been hitting the DGs fairly well lately and I want to leave that set intact.

Dave
That was quick. ;)

No rush. Just start dabbling and before you know it, you'll be hooked.
 

dthrog00

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I had a range session this afternoon and was hitting it really well. I thought to myself afterwards what in the heck am I doing? Why take apart clubs that are working so well?

I think I'd like to get a work bench and a vice in the garage that would things like regripping easy to do at home.

Dave
 

Knot Right

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I had a range session this afternoon and was hitting it really well. I thought to myself afterwards what in the heck am I doing? Why take apart clubs that are working so well?

I think I'd like to get a work bench and a vice in the garage that would things like regripping easy to do at home.

Dave
Get a 4" vise and add a set of these Bessey soft jaws.

Money well spent.
 

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jbuck31

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You can pick up a heat gun at Harbor Freight for under $10.
A box cutter or utility knife will cut the ferrules, get a hook blade too for removing grips on graphite.
You can also get a portable vice (clamps onto a work bench or table) at HF pretty cheap.
A plumbers brush will work quite well to clean and prep the hosels.
I would also suggest a rubber vice clamp.
Sand paper to prep the shat tips before install.

If you decide to go down the path of the-shafting, you can pull the steel shafts pretty easily with out any assistance or a shaft puller. Graphite on the other hand, you don’t want to twist the shaft so you will need a puller to do it correctly.
 

AuzzieMatt

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If you eventually go down the reshaft road, besides what's already been suggested, you'll want to get a hosel honing wire brush to clean out the hosel after you remove the shafts.
 

JB

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whether you do or not, don’t spend $30 for a Golfworks best gun. We have tested that multiple multiple times and works the same as the Harbor Freight model that we paid $10 for. Both have the same 2 heat settings.
 

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Golfers Anonymous

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Most of the “generic tools” from GolfWorks are Harbor Freight specials you can get anywhere really, I will state like anything you get what you pay for. Most items have been mentioned and you could look at the attached and run down what could be found cheaper elsewhere.

 

JimmyRussell

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I’m curious. Decades ago, I wanted to build a couple of clubs. I posted my intention on one of the forums at the time and asked for advice or direction. I was told I needed a swing weight scale, would need to spine the shafts, and maybe was told the shafts needed to be pured. And last, I would need a scale for weighing the shafts and grips.
My question is, are shafts made today, built to much tighter tolerances making spining unnecessary? Some people feel that puring is marketing hype. I don’t know, but I think it would be cool to build a couple of golf clubs.
 

FairwayGreen

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I’m curious. Decades ago, I wanted to build a couple of clubs. I posted my intention on one of the forums at the time and asked for advice or direction. I was told I needed a swing weight scale, would need to spine the shafts, and maybe was told the shafts needed to be pured. And last, I would need a scale for weighing the shafts and grips.
My question is, are shafts made today, built to much tighter tolerances making spining unnecessary? Some people feel that puring is marketing hype. I don’t know, but I think it would be cool to build a couple of golf clubs.
No, that stuff still applies, especially with swingweight when you switch from steel to graphite. Maybe not the spining/puring (I spine and FLO everything). Most graphite shafts Spine and Flo properly at logo down now though so that's good.

I've pulled D2 irons apart, thrown in graphite dry-fitted only to see them swingweight at C8 or so. Might also be why the graphite "Standard" length was/is 1/2" longer than steel.

The bad part is if the OP takes his clubs to a shop, some shops don't SW the clubs either, they just assemble and hand them back.
 

templeton80

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I use a torch and just twist them off by hand if steel shafts.
 

GolfTravelDude

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I think the Dynamic Golds I have in my irons may be too heavy and I'd benefit from using graphite. I'd plan to reshaft 4-GW and a 56* wedge that I have. Reputable shops around me cost $20/club for the service and once you add shafts + grips I would be better off buying new clubs as my irons are not expensive.

The useful tools I already have are an air compressor and electric drill with bits.

I'd be happy to take advice from anyone who has experience with the tooling and supplies necessary. I've watched some McClub videos to get some background.

Shaft removal:
Heat gun is $30 at Golfworks. I also saw a Youtube video where a guy used his stove top also, but I'm married and think my wife would wish bodily harm on me if I tried this.
Might need a knife to remove the ferrule although I think I can improvise and figure something out for this step.

Prep:
Brush bit to clean out the hosel, I need to figure out what this is. I might be able to use a drill bit as an alternative?
Rod saw bit for hacksaw and masking tape to cut the shafts, will probably get from hardware store. Get shafts back to square with sandpaper.
Sand paper to prep the shaft.

Assembly:
Need shafts, grips, and ferrules.
Epoxy, 50 mL cartridge is $6.49 @ GW.
Sand paper and acetone for the ferrule

Grips:
Plan to use air compressor, don't have a vice so will need to figure out how to support the club.

Thoughts/comments?

Dave
Going from Dynamic Gold to Graphite is a massive leap. I'd visit some retailers and swing a few options prior to making that leap. I have swung Graphite irons for 28 years...after a bad wrist injury took 15mph from my swing and mishits were painful. But in that time and I was in Dynamic Gold prior....I have moved from 100g to 65g currently.
 

Stryker

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Depending on the manufacturer, you may be able to send the set back and have them reshaft it for a fee. Cobra did a set for me about a year and a half ago. I went to Steelfiber shafts too which is usually a pretty expensive shaft and I think I paid $40 per club and that included 2 day shipping both ways.
 

Arlo

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I’m curious. Decades ago, I wanted to build a couple of clubs. I posted my intention on one of the forums at the time and asked for advice or direction. I was told I needed a swing weight scale, would need to spine the shafts, and maybe was told the shafts needed to be pured. And last, I would need a scale for weighing the shafts and grips.
My question is, are shafts made today, built to much tighter tolerances making spining unnecessary? Some people feel that puring is marketing hype. I don’t know, but I think it would be cool to build a couple of golf clubs.
some shafts have proven not to need puring. eg Nunchuk for woods and irons.
 

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