Replacement for Scratch 8620

[ParThenBar]

The time has come to replace my wedges. I’m currently rocking a Scratch 8620 D/S 56 with TNC Grind and D/S 60 with EGG Grind. If Scratch was still around I would buy new ones, but that’s not possible.

I’ve searched every forum and article I can find, but I can’t find the specs to determine what the bounces are.

About a year ago I switched to the MD4s with an S Grind but I never could get a feel for them and I recently went back to my Scratch wedges.

I did see a few references to Vokeys being a good alternative and it looks like the 56.08 M Grind and 60.04 L Grind would be the most similar. Can anyone confirm?

I’ve also considered having them refurbished, but I’m seeing a lot of mixed reviews about Iron Factory, Golf Garage, etc. and a lot of these guys seem to be focused on putter customization. Has anyone had any luck going this route with an old club? Who did you use?

 

[Desmond]

Find new wedges - my 8620's wore down after one season about a decade ago. Had the EGG and Driver/Slider type grind. Don't redo them. Lots of inconsistent stories with these guys, including some environmental violations over a decade ago in CA, and the guy then moved to another State. I'd say it's best to move on and forward.

Lots of peeps have an M type and C Grind - Mizuno MP T20 come to mind in low and high bounce - see their spec sheets; Titleist M Grind is good if 8 of bounce is enough. They also have a D Grind, which is an M Grind with more bounce (12 deg). Callaway has a C Grind. But you tried the MD 4. The Mizunos, like Scratch, are a real forging as opposed to the cast Titleist.

 

[B81Smith]

I had 1018’s and then 8620’s in 50/54/58 all dd grind. Looked everywhere and went with titleist sm7’s in ss grind in all but 58 went with D grind. I take big divots and need bounce. The unique clean shape and grinds of the scratch wedges can be achieved if you say buy from anyone who can grind a wedge. Some club champions could probably grind. Joe Kwok comes to mind. That’s an expensive route though. I’d say adjust to the titleist and they make small changes each year but you can always get new ones. Not going out of business anything soon.


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[B81Smith]

One more thing. If you can go to a titleist Thursday event - see their website. Pre covid they did them every week at various clubs around the country. Go to a decent place so you can get fit off grass using trackman. Then take them over to green and chip out of right lies rough sand etc. that’s what I did. Sounds expensive but it was FREE!!! Google titleist Thursday and you could find some more info out if they’re still doing them.


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[ParThenBar]

Find new wedges - my 8620's wore down after one season about a decade ago. Had the EGG and Driver/Slider type grind. Don't redo them. Lots of inconsistent stories with these guys, including some environmental violations over a decade ago in CA, and the guy then moved to another State. I'd say it's best to move on and forward.

Lots of peeps have an M type and C Grind - Mizuno MP T20 come to mind in low and high bounce - see their spec sheets; Titleist M Grind is good if 8 of bounce is enough. They also have a D Grind, which is an M Grind with more bounce (12 deg). Callaway has a C Grind. But you tried the MD 4. The Mizunos, like Scratch, are a real forging as opposed to the cast Titleist.

Hadn’t consider Mizuno, I’ll check them out. I think my problem with the MD4s is too much bounce (they’re 10 deg). I play mostly in Texas where the turf is usually pretty firm (especially this time of year). I don’t really take a divot to speak of, and my most common mishit is coming down a little too far behind the ball. With my Scratches, my mishits most likely turn into me leaving the ball short and not getting as much flight as I would have otherwise. Same mishit with the MD4s and I most likely blade the ball into oblivion.

 

[ParThenBar]

Find new wedges - my 8620's wore down after one season about a decade ago. Had the EGG and Driver/Slider type grind. Don't redo them. Lots of inconsistent stories with these guys, including some environmental violations over a decade ago in CA, and the guy then moved to another State. I'd say it's best to move on and forward.

Lots of peeps have an M type and C Grind - Mizuno MP T20 come to mind in low and high bounce - see their spec sheets; Titleist M Grind is good if 8 of bounce is enough. They also have a D Grind, which is an M Grind with more bounce (12 deg). Callaway has a C Grind. But you tried the MD 4. The Mizunos, like Scratch, are a real forging as opposed to the cast Titleist.

My Scratches are also 10 seasons old. The beauty of non-conforming grooves is they’re probably worn to conformity by now haha.

 

[ParThenBar]

One more thing. If you can go to a titleist Thursday event - see their website. Pre covid they did them every week at various clubs around the country. Go to a decent place so you can get fit off grass using trackman. Then take them over to green and chip out of right lies rough sand etc. that’s what I did. Sounds expensive but it was FREE!!! Google titleist Thursday and you could find some more info out if they’re still doing them.


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Thanks. I’ll check that out.

 

[bueshy]

Take a look on ebay. Scratch heads can be found pretty cheap

 

[Desmond]

Hadn’t consider Mizuno, I’ll check them out. I think my problem with the MD4s is too much bounce (they’re 10 deg). I play mostly in Texas where the turf is usually pretty firm (especially this time of year). I don’t really take a divot to speak of, and my most common mishit is coming down a little too far behind the ball. With my Scratches, my mishits most likely turn into me leaving the ball short and not getting as much flight as I would have otherwise. Same mishit with the MD4s and I most likely blade the ball into oblivion.

I play in North Texas on firm ground and thin lies. My MP T20 is 53/11 with an M Grind, and 58/12 with a C Grind. If I hit fat, I want the club to glide, so I want bounce. I don't take much soil - just the top of the grass when all is cooking. I also bought a MP T20 60/06 in a demo sale to see if I can handle a low bounce wedge and see if I can come in really shallow - it's diffferent. If you hit it fat, less bounce is no bueno. It digs unless you come in really shallow.

 

[ParThenBar]

I play in North Texas on firm ground and thin lies. My MP T20 is 53/11 with an M Grind, and 58/12 with a C Grind. If I hit fat, I want the club to glide, so I want bounce. I don't take much soil - just the top of the grass when all is cooking. I also bought a MP T20 60/06 in a demo sale to see if I can handle a low bounce wedge and see if I can come in really shallow - it's diffferent. If you hit it fat, less bounce is no bueno. It digs unless you come in really shallow.

Same. I really wish I knew what my current bounce is so that I would have a reference point. The closest thing I’ve come to finding out was an old review describing them as “moderate.” My guess is that means 10 deg +\-, so that’s I’m why I went with 10s on the MD4s.

 

[Desmond]

Same. I really wish I knew what my current bounce is so that I would have a reference point. The closest thing I’ve come to finding out was an old review describing them as “moderate.” My guess is that means 10 deg +\-, so that’s I’m why I went with 10s on the MD4s.

Well, as you know, bounce is only a number - it's the grind that make that bounce of 10-12 more playable on thin lies and firm ground. The grind cuts down the 10-12 to a lesser number in terms of playability. A heel grind and trailing edge grind allows you to open up without adding bounce - cutting off bounce at the back of the sole - trailing edge grind - allows you sit the club down with the leading edge still staying close to the ground. So you might have bounce where you need it, at the front of the sole, then it bounce legs are cut with the grind. That's why M and C grinds are popular. But it also depends on whether it's an aggressive M or C grind, too. You have bounce where you need it and less bounce where you don't want it so the wedge is more versatile.

But if you're stuck on no grass and hard ground, then you need to take out the bounce by adjusting ball position and strategy.