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Unless it was vacum sealed they are exposed.Doesn't the eraser get hard because it's exposed to the air? The ball's case is hardly exposed to the air.
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Unless it was vacum sealed they are exposed.Doesn't the eraser get hard because it's exposed to the air? The ball's case is hardly exposed to the air.
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You can extend the shelf life of your balls if you keep them covered and stored in a dry, dark cool place at the ideal temperature range of between 45 - 55 degrees F
Its kind of a tough question to answer. Speaking to someone in the space it will depend on what level of performance you are okay with as it will change at different stages of life. I asked if 5 years was a fair number and the response was "If you have 5 year old golf balls, you should buy new ones".
But wouldn't you buy new ones just because the technology was better? Not just because they were old?
Sure if your the guy who runs out the minute a new model is released. I'm the guy who usually buys last year's model because it's a lot cheaper.
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I have had much better results with the TM M1 than I did with the M3. Granted the M1 is a 440 and the M3 was a 460, but I'd think that difference is minimal.Absolutely. But let me ask this. As a golf equipment guy, would you be interested in jumping on that 5-6 year old driver because it is even cheaper? Do you think its as good as the current crop or even last year's crop of products?
I have had much better results with the TM M1 than I did with the M3. Granted the M1 is a 440 and the M3 was a 460, but I'd think that difference is minimal.
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I guess. My previous driver was a 2007 TM Burner TP.Not to derail the thread but if the difference is minimal between 5 year old drivers, why are we constantly switching & getting the newest clubs? Because we can?
I have had much better results with the TM M1 than I did with the M3. Granted the M1 is a 440 and the M3 was a 460, but I'd think that difference is minimal.
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I agree with everything you said in the quoted post.Because you hit one better does not mean that the advances don't exist. It could be as little as grip one day or as much as better fit.
Advancements in golf balls over a 5 year period have been fairly large by every single company.
I think there is a point of diminishing returns but a 1 year old driver/ball is good enough for me.Absolutely. But let me ask this. As a golf equipment guy, would you be interested in jumping on that 5-6 year old driver because it is even cheaper? Do you think its as good as the current crop or even last year's crop of products?
Depending on the price point, I don't know why not.just curious, would anybody buy headphones or computer speakers that are 10-15 years old?
I hate it when that happens.Something went wrong with my post. Disregard.
I could see Urethane cover balls degrading much faster than Surlyn cover balls, but even at that, I can't see them degrading that quickly. Persoanlly I can't see the polymers under the covers degrading much if at all...certianlly not appreciable within 5 years.
I work in the polymer industry, we produce polymer components that are subject to much higher stresses than what a golf balls sees (imagine that ), and we give a shelf life of 10 years on most parts (kept out of he sun in dry room temp conditions). As a matter of fact, parts kept in a dry, temp controlled enviroment away from UV light will last much longer than even that...but we have to give a shelf life, so we use 10 years. My background is polymers and my knowledge of them (including Urehtanes) would lead me to say, 5 years is ridiculously conservative if balls are in the packaging in a dark space in room temps.
Now, when we introduce high humidity to Urethane or worse yet, put them in water....forget about it. Urethanes are acutely sensative to water and are affected by a phenominom called Hydrolysis. This is when the Urethanes chains begin to break down and become brittle. Surlyn will not be affcted by water to much degree as it has a very low permiation rate to water (hence why a lot of packaging wrap is Surlyn). UV is bad, for both Urethane and Surlyn. Another myth is keeping balls in a cold area. Warming and cooling of a ball within a range of winter temps to summer highs has very little affect. So as an example, keeping your balls in a cold garage in the winter is no big thing if you leave them there (in a dark space) and there is not too much humidity. Even if the ball is in -40F as an example (at -40F, you mercifully won't have humidity either LOL) and the polymers the ball is comprised of fall below their glass transition temperature, as long as you don't try to use the ball, the balls will normalize when they warm back up and will be no worse for wear.
Basically sun and water are bad, but dark, dry cool places not so much. If you ask me, I don't see how a ball wouldn't last decades in ideal storage conditions. Just my 0.02$
Manufacturers have taken a fresh swing at the chemistry of golf balls in recent years to make balls that suit every golfer, from the duffers that shank them out of bounds to the latest hot shots who bend them around bunkers on the pro tour.
Much of the latest chemistry is designed to make balls that are more controllable or fly farther—or both. Softer balls typically give golfers better control, while harder balls travel faster. The latest golf ball brand names (Max, Rush, TruSpeed, and Velocity) hint at where the technology is headed.
About 1.2 billion golf balls are produced every year. There are more than 80 different types of balls of varying construction materials and designs.
Although major changes have taken place in ball formulation recently, golf ball technology has been on an upswing for more than 500 years; that is, ever since the game was invented on the eastern coast of Scotland sometime in the 15th century. Back in the day, golfers played with wooden clubs and made their balls from local hardwoods such as beech.
In 1618, golf ball technology really began to take off with the creation of the featherie, a leather pouch stuffed with boiled feathers from chickens or geese. The featherie-making process was lyrically described in “The Goff,” a 1743 poem by Thomas Mathison. The feathers and leather started wet and as the leather dried, it shrank to create a tightly packed ball.
By 1848, the featherie was dropped and the gutty came on the scene. The ball was made from gutta-percha, a type of coagulated latex, likely from Palaquium gutta, a fruit originating from the Yucatan. When gutta-percha was heated in water and rolled into a sphere, it formed a virtually indestructible ball. Historians widely attribute the gutty’s creation in the 1840s to Robert Adams Paterson, a divinity student at the University of St. Andrews in Scotland.
With the advent of industrialization in the late 1800s, companies began producing rubber balls from molds. In 1898, Ohio-based tire and rubber producer B.F. Goodrich introduced the first ball that had rubber threads wound around a natural rubber core, all encased in a gutta-percha sphere.
The wound ball went through a number of incarnations—including one with a compressed air core that tended to explode—before manufacturers adopted a design that replaced the gutta-percha cover with balata, a form of natural rubber obtained from a South American tree. Throughout much of the early 20th century, gutta-percha and balata balls became the weapons of choice for most golfers, pro and amateur alike.
These days, a golf ball is typically made of a butadiene rubber center surrounded by one or more rubber mantles and topped off with a tough skin. These outer layers are made from blends of high-performance ethylene copolymers known as ionomeric resins, which harden through ionic crosslinking between negatively charged acid groups and positively charged metal salts, such as zinc and sodium salts.
This design is favored because the resulting balls have a hard core with an outside that is compressible, or soft, according to the website of DuPont, which has been high on the leader board for golf ball technology for more than 50 years. DuPont’s technology, for example, is being used by Nike under the brand name Speedlock RZN.
Other rubber and polymer producers are also collaborating with golf ball manufacturers to make a ball that really flies. Japanese golf ball maker Kasco has been using polymer producer Lanxess’s neodymium polybutadiene rubber in the core of its balls. This material efficiently converts impact energy into kinetic energy and thus enhances flying distance, Lanxess’s website claims.
Perhaps the most quintessential part of a golf ball is its pitted coating, which affects how the ball rolls and how it feels when it is hit by a golfer’s club. Dimples also reduce a ball’s drag as it flies through the air. Manufacturers alter the size and number of dimples to adjust performance.
PPG, among others, has produced coatings for golf balls. The company has been producing a range of proprietary coating formulations, including scratch-resistant ones made from polyurethane, for companies such as the Titleist balls producer Acushnet for more than a decade.
Absolutely. But let me ask this. As a golf equipment guy, would you be interested in jumping on that 5-6 year old driver because it is even cheaper? Do you think its as good as the current crop or even last year's crop of products?