The Home Renovation Thread

[J4U]

Not really wanting to or nice enough weather to take the 8 new doors off and to garage for painting. Have 8 more upstairs to replace so using that excuse, all or nothing!

With the knee ready for some muscle building and the boss not liking to go to gyms...guess what. Yup, turning a downstairs bedroom into a home gym.

Fortunately had already changed the pinkish paint in the room. Have enough baseboard material to replace the oak. Door frames and doors will have to wait.

Was a little nervous taking up the carpet not wanting to see movement in concrete or water stains.

Pleasantly surprised and just had to feather out the joints to eliminate the ridge where they did it before carpet.

 

[J4U]

 

[J4U]

Floor will be all 5/16 gym rubber, a perk building gyms is I get any extra if I want. Two rolls were from different periods in time and they changed the red mixture from 20% down to 10%. Not complaining as that stuff isn't cheap.

Waiting for mat tape to be delivered tomorrow as I don't want to glue it down. Cut the rubber and fits like a glove. Pulled it up again to let the feather patches dry completely.

The higher red mix in the middle to break it up instead of on the end. Baseboards are cut and painted and will go down after rubber is secured.

Equipment will arrive sometime in the next 5-7 days. Gives me ample time to button up the floor and hang an old TV up in a corner. The room is 9X16 and thought there would be plenty of room. Upon actually measuring, going to be more filled than I thought.

Off air HD antenna in route as we didn't want to increase cable boxes. Plus house is wired for both cable and one other source in each room. Pre wire for antenna in the attic so terminated and all rooms located and connected in tec box.

EDIT:
The 2hr turning into much longer syndrome taking hold.

Went to test fit baseboard and oh my is the floor unlevel. Carpet hid the gaps before but the rubber won't.

Primer put down and waiting to dry to start throwing some leveler on it. knew it was going to easy...lol

 

[xThor]

What I really want is to add giant evergreen's or bushes to block my neighbors, but I am pretty sure I would need to take out a second mortgage for that.

I absolutely empathize with this. This has been a huge point for the wife and I here. We have a couple trees that are no help, and a long row of vibernums that are great and fully shield one side, but as they are deciduous our winters leave us with less privacy.

Buying already tall can get expensive quickly for sure. If you’ve got time though, there are some fast growers that can be inexpensive, but look great as they grow.

As for an evergreen type, I’ve grown partial to the Nellie R Stevens Holly, having planted 5 in the last year. They grow exceptionally fast, I got them at about 3’, and they are already up to 5’. Very easy low maintenance.

Leyland Cypress is another good every green, very hardy, grows quickly (not as quick as a Nellie r though), and looks good as well.

both of those are decently priced, as I started off at about 3’ tall each. Only issue has been deer, but I’ve taken some time to stake and cage them off when the deer get active.

Long term, I’ve planted 7 cedars, but I think only 4 or 5 will make it, but they will take years to mature to offer privacy our house needs. We don’t have that time here, as we know we won’t be living here long term, so the leyland and nellie have been some great additions for the short term.

 

[GolferGal]

I absolutely empathize with this. This has been a huge point for the wife and I here. We have a couple trees that are no help, and a long row of vibernums that are great and fully shield one side, but as they are deciduous our winters leave us with less privacy.

Buying already tall can get expensive quickly for sure. If you’ve got time though, there are some fast growers that can be inexpensive, but look great as they grow.

As for an evergreen type, I’ve grown partial to the Nellie R Stevens Holly, having planted 5 in the last year. They grow exceptionally fast, I got them at about 3’, and they are already up to 5’. Very easy low maintenance.

Leyland Cypress is another good every green, very hardy, grows quickly (not as quick as a Nellie r though), and looks good as well.

both of those are decently priced, as I started off at about 3’ tall each. Only issue has been deer, but I’ve taken some time to stake and cage them off when the deer get active.

Long term, I’ve planted 7 cedars, but I think only 4 or 5 will make it, but they will take years to mature to offer privacy our house needs. We don’t have that time here, as we know we won’t be living here long term, so the leyland and nellie have been some great additions for the short term.

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it! We are actually going to look at plants this weekend.

 

[Gyro25]

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What's up there now? We live in a Van Patten colonial and I put R-30 rolls of fiberglass over blown-in cellulose, aka recycled newsprint, flame-resistant dust. It took me an afternoon to unface, roll out and trim about 875 sf. If you do it at a time like next week, it won't be too bad temperature wise, but you'll want to wear long sleeves and a dust mask, especially if your attic is unused, because it will be dusty and if critters have been in there, well . . . . A few things I can tell you:

• Don't remove the shrink wrap from the roll until you have it in the attic.
• If you can wear a hard head covering, it will help you, because you will probably bump your head on the roof, and probably a roofing nail.
• A head lamp will be helpful.
• If you get rolls, make sure they are unfaced, even if you have to add multiple layers to get to the R-value you want. The facing is a vapor barrier, and if it is between, or even on top of, existing insulation, it's a recipe for trapping moisture and growing mold. If you can only get faced insulation, remove it, most easily done by peeling back the kraft or foil and slicing it off the facing as you go with a long blade. There will probably be an adhesive residue on the fiberglass. If it looks solid in any place, poke holes in it with a utility knife.
• If you're replacing insulation, use faced stuff for the layer contacting the ceiling and the facing goes down, ON THE WARM (LIVING) SIDE
• Something like this makes the trimming go a lot faster than using a utility knife: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wiss-8-5-in-All-Purpose-Utility-Shears-CW812S/313485219
• If you're installing over fiberglass rolls, install the new insulation perpendicular to the old.
• Your soffit (under the eaves) is probably vented with little perforations. Don't cover those with insulation. That allows ventilation in the roof.

It sounds like a PITA, and it is an afternoon shot, but it's well worth it. It's tediious, not difficult. I would do it again. Blown-in insulation sounds like it should work really well if you have enough room to maneuver, but I never have so I've never tried it.

Thanks That was super helpful, & thanks to ddec for asking as well! This came up in my home energy audit, which revealed i have r11 on the ceiling 0 for the roof... I'm apparently supposed to be at r49 ... soooo just a little bit off

NJ has a program for grants where they pay up to half the price and I can finance the rest interest free on my gas bill, but would still be about 2500

there's an extra roll or two up there so maybe for now I can do the perpendicular thing you said.




Mulling over having the hvac ductwork re worked. It gets way too hot upstairs with the heat on, even with the vents closed, and the AC feels like its struggling in hotter temps. Apparently my ductwork is maybe original, from 1988, and kind of falling apart, unsealed, etc. Single zone in a 2 story as well .. got this quote I'm trying to negotiate (2nd one came in at 5400, but this one sounds more thorough), especially if they'll do cash payment plan over like 8-12 months.. anyone have any thoughts on this?



I just can't seem to stick to our housing budget haha

 

[Reframmellator]

I’m no forced air HVAC guy but I did read recently about a duct spray sealant that is applied from the inside. This is in addition to the mastic you were quoted. It’s supposed to reduce leaks significantly. May be worth picking their brains on it.

 

[Gyro25]

I’m no forced air HVAC guy but I did read recently about a duct spray sealant that is applied from the inside. This is in addition to the mastic you were quoted. It’s supposed to reduce leaks significantly. May be worth picking their brains on it.

I'll check with them, but as it all needs to be reworked to add the dampers and zones, it'll all have to be new ducta anyways.

 

[Mark_UK]

Now that the inside of the house is done, time to sort the back yard. The back is one giant sand dune, and coupled with the fact neither of us are gardeners, we are removing one of the sandy steps to move the patio out further. A new retaining wall will go in against the rear step.

 

[Jman]

Two coats of Kilz on, first coat of ceiling paint (ultra flat, ultra white) on. All new lights trimmed in. Fancy shmancy new dimmer switch installed.

Now I need the effing shiplap to deliver.

I do get to go buy a new nail gun today though!

 

[Reframmellator]

Two coats of Kilz on, first coat of ceiling paint (ultra flat, ultra white) on. All new lights trimmed in. Fancy shmancy new dimmer switch installed.

Now I need the effing shiplap to deliver.

I do get to go buy a new nail gun today though!

When I was building my deck, my neighbor loaned me his Paslode butane-powered nail gun for the trim. That was enough to make me buy an air compressor/nail gun kit.

 

[Jman]

When I was building my deck, my neighbor loaned me his Paslode butane-powered nail gun for the trim. That was enough to make me buy an air compressor/nail gun kit.

Hahaha, I bet!

Good or bad, I’m pretty much all DeWalt, it was ingrained in me by my grandpa, so I’ve got plenty of their battery packs, likely to go with a 16ga. finish nailer I think.

 

[Reframmellator]

Hahaha, I bet!

Good or bad, I’m pretty much all DeWalt, it was ingrained in me by my grandpa, so I’ve got plenty of their battery packs, likely to go with a 16ga. finish nailer I think.

I don't think you can go wrong with DeWalt. They have a lot of options within their cordless offerings.

 

[Jmk202]

I'm nearly done with the Drywall Tape and floating of my un-remodel and the drywall portion is a BEAR. Just sanded down 90% of it this weekend, and that is one hell of a mess, glad I tapped up tarps to isolate the area. This Friday I'm rending a texture sprayer from Home Depot to try and spray my own orange peel texture to match the existing. I'm enjoying this finishing process (i'm new to it) but it is a LOT of work and time.

 

[Jman]

I'm nearly done with the Drywall Tape and floating of my un-remodel and the drywall portion is a BEAR. Just sanded down 90% of it this weekend, and that is one hell of a mess, glad I tapped up tarps to isolate the area. This Friday I'm rending a texture sprayer from Home Depot to try and spray my own orange peel texture to match the existing. I'm enjoying this finishing process (i'm new to it) but it is a LOT of work and time.

The sanding sucks so so so so bad. Might check and see if there’s a local rental company, they’re cheaper than Home Depot if that matters at all.

 

[Jmk202]

The sanding sucks so so so so bad. Might check and see if there’s a local rental company, they’re cheaper than Home Depot if that matters at all.

Good Idea, I'll check around. Yeah the sanding was not fun. I'm struggling a bit cuz I can only put in 2-3 hours at a time (after morning golf rounds ) and the progress is so slow. It looks/feels good and is quick to hang the sheets, but then its been 2 months of slowly making taping/floating progress. Looking forward to getting the texture on the walls so I can prime then then start building the built in shelves and countertop.

 

[Greg Kulbick]

Two coats of Kilz on, first coat of ceiling paint (ultra flat, ultra white) on. All new lights trimmed in. Fancy shmancy new dimmer switch installed.

Now I need the effing shiplap to deliver.

I do get to go buy a new nail gun today though!

The best part of our move was new tools for the projects. I ended up with a Hitatchi battery nail gun that worked amazingly doing the boards for our fence. Only gripe was capacity. Had to reload it more often than I would have liked.

 

[J4U]

First leveling of entire floor completed and waiting for it to dry. Feathering out the joints in the middle just didn't cut it. If thought out better, I would have just used the self leveling mix for the whole floor to begin with.

Need to add more in far right corner and in the middle.

Didn't get one of the bags mixed thoroughly for the middle and have some little mound waves. Glad I added a little more water to the mix. Flowed really well when mixed thoroughly and am happy with results.

 

[Gyro25]

How close together can drywall anchors be for something light, like a shower curtain rod? Right now, each side has 2 of the screw-type anchors, but I want to move it an inch or 2 over. If I leave the old anchors in (and just spackle and paint to hide it best as possible) think it'll hold?

Two coats of Kilz on, first coat of ceiling paint (ultra flat, ultra white) on. All new lights trimmed in. Fancy shmancy new dimmer switch installed.

Now I need the effing shiplap to deliver.

I do get to go buy a new nail gun today though!

I do want to get a nail gun just to have, I could've used it a few times already with the cabinet job.. plus its just hella fun!

 

[J4U]

Hahaha, I bet!l
Good or bad, I’m pretty much all DeWalt, it was ingrained in me by my grandpa, so I’ve got plenty of their battery packs, likely to go with a 16ga. finish nailer I think.

Have you looked at the 18g brad nailer? Much smaller impact zone and can go up to 2" brads. Less finish work on other projects like baseboards and will hold the shiplap just fine. Options are good and tool shopping is fun!

 

[captaincaution]

How close together can drywall anchors be for something light, like a shower curtain rod? Right now, each side has 2 of the screw-type anchors, but I want to move it an inch or 2 over. If I leave the old anchors in (and just spackle and paint to hide it best as possible) think it'll hold?

For something light like that, you can probably get pretty close (that's an exact measurement!). Alternatively, can you get a new tension rod style curtain rod?

 

[Gummi Bear]

I've lived in my house since August of 2000, it was built in 1951.

I did the first renovation in 01-02. It was basically a complete gut-n-go. The only thing that didn't change was the outside walls. The previous owner was "special" and had used things like extension cord and speaker wire in the walls to wire in receptacles and lighting. There was garden hose used to fix broken water pipes under the house (pier and beam). It was basically crap. I moved several walls to make a better floor plan (added washer dryer closet, tripled the kitchen counter space, etc). Replaced all the windows, had the floors refinished, added central heat and air (window units before) and stuff like that. All new wiring and plumbing, drywall, I subbed out the refinish of the floors and the paint.

Now, it needs some repair. There is some wood siding that needs replacing (apparently 70 years is all that it will last), and fresh paint.

I started in the fall with replacing the bad siding on the north side of the house, it was the worst side. Took a couple of days to remove the old, install the new, and get a coat of primer on it. After that I rebuilt my shed. My neighbor's tree dropped a limb in a storm, which punched a big hole in the roof. That was a big project. First, I had to replace the T111 siding that was weather beaten and some rot (bad install when it was built) then it was on to a new roof. Complete tear off of old shingles and felt, then the decking. I replaced a couple of stringers, then decking. Added felt, and nailed on shingles over the next few evenings. I started, and the girls finished the caulking on the shed. I painted it a couple of weeks ago. It soaked up all the paint I could spray, and I ran out. Yesterday, I picked up another 5 gallon bucket of paint, and resprayed it last night. Now it looks much better. Just have to paint the trim (that's a ways down the road, when I finish the house)

In between rebuilding the shed and getting it painted, I had to build a loafing shed (small barn) for my daughter's 4H calf. That took a few days, and with help of Mrs and daughter, plus my dad, we got it knocked out. Dixie loves her barn.

I've bought a bunch of new 105 siding for the rest of the house repairs, will be working on that in the evenings over the next few weeks. Gonna have the girls put a coat of primer on them before I install. Fun fact - 105 siding is not the same dimensions as it was 70 years ago. It's a lot of puzzle fitment then caulk the gaps to make it match existing. It's a task I dread, a terrible pain in the butt. Also need to rebuild the electrical service, it's way past due.


I really should be less lazy about taking pictures. I'm too busy working, and when I'm done, I don't wanna mess with it.

 

[Reframmellator]

How close together can drywall anchors be for something light, like a shower curtain rod? Right now, each side has 2 of the screw-type anchors, but I want to move it an inch or 2 over. If I leave the old anchors in (and just spackle and paint to hide it best as possible) think it'll hold?

It will very probably hold. A failure in that case is not likely to be a big problem. Depending on how large the anchors were/how strong the drywall looked, I might go with small toggle bolts.

What kind of anchors are you leaving? If it's the plastic anchors, I've never had much success spackling those over. They always show. If you remove the anchors and want to go full-on overkill, cut a popsicle stick down so you can fit it through the hole and in the gap. Tie a string around the center of the stick, and apply construction glue/Elmer's glue to both sides of the stick. Fish the stick through the hole, pull it taut against the drywall. Tie the other end to a pencil and roll up the string on the pencil until the pencil is flush against the outside of the wall. Once the glue has dried, cut the string inside the hole and spackle. But even I would not use this method, unless the drywall is in sad shape, or it's a big hole (in which case I use cardboard cut to the right size instead of a stick).

 

[Gyro25]

It will very probably hold. A failure in that case is not likely to be a big problem. Depending on how large the anchors were/how strong the drywall looked, I might go with small toggle bolts.

What kind of anchors are you leaving? If it's the plastic anchors, I've never had much success spackling those over. They always show. If you remove the anchors and want to go full-on overkill, cut a popsicle stick down so you can fit it through the hole and in the gap. Tie a string around the center of the stick, and apply construction glue/Elmer's glue to both sides of the stick. Fish the stick through the hole, pull it taut against the drywall. Tie the other end to a pencil and roll up the string on the pencil until the pencil is flush against the outside of the wall. Once the glue has dried, cut the string inside the hole and spackle. But even I would not use this method, unless the drywall is in sad shape, or it's a big hole (in which case I use cardboard cut to the right size instead of a stick).

Its the screw type anchors and yeah they tend to show. I was going to lightly hammer them in to be at/just below surface then spackle them. If I remove them I know the drywall strength is less, but could cut out a small piece of drywall or like some wood and glue it in there as you mentioned. Just didn't want to go through all that and the wall still be weak, but its just a shower curtain and the rod, maybe what 10 lbs? And the new anchors would be 4 of the screw in anchors as well.

Also doing the shelves later, my wife's going to have a breakdown with all the dust and cleanup that'll be needed tonight

 

[Jman]

Have you looked at the 18g brad nailer? Much smaller impact zone and can go up to 2" brads. Less finish work on other projects like baseboards and will hold the shiplap just fine. Options are good and tool shopping is fun!

Is that enough even going through Sheetrock to the studs? I’ve read mixed things and you know how that goes....hahaha