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F350s need load range E tires if you are going to use it near GVWR as designed. E tires are harsh riding due to very stiff load carrying sidewalls and suck in the snow and off road because the heat resistant compound is hard. If you aren't going to load it so heavily look at LT tires. Just don't overload them.
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Definitely going with E, it's a work truck.
I was actually looking at those earlier. Thank you sir
Wish I remembered what I put on my Ridgeline ( just traded in for EV). Maybe Bridgestone. Had really deep Snow in MO to point where State Blow got stuck on our Hill and I drove Ridgeline down Hill to help out. If there were an Apocalypse I'd want a 1st Gen Ridgeline, it went thru everything with stock tires.
Ok so over the weekend I changed the front brakes on my wife's 2013 Kia Sorento, pretty easy overall but now she notes so steering wheel shaking when driving at fair speed like 40-60, and smell of some "burnt rubber."
It seems it's the front right tire, which I had a small issue with as I couldn't figure out how to recess the caliper piston at first and I think loosened the brake fluid nut at first so got some brake fluid all over the place. I then found out how to to the caliper recessed and got everything on. The brakes went on well, they weren't too tight, and seemed to slide ok, but I did not add the slim flexible metal clip things, I left the old ones on.
So the issue I'm finding is that when I have the car in drive and simply take the foot off the brake, the car does not move. The brakes are "too pressed" and seems to be engaged on the rotor all the time.
I plan on trying to fix this on Friday, any suggestions?
Edit- on the left side, which is don't think has an issue, I had trouble getting the caliper back on as the nut on the back of the caliper with that rubber piece that compressed was stuck, so after a ton of squeezing with the clamp it finally loosened where I could get the caliper back on and over the rotor. Think I should check that side too?
It seems it's the front right tire, which I had a small issue with as I couldn't figure out how to recess the caliper piston at first and I think loosened the brake fluid nut at first so got some brake fluid all over the place. I then found out how to to the caliper recessed and got everything on. The brakes went on well, they weren't too tight, and seemed to slide ok, but I did not add the slim flexible metal clip things, I left the old ones on.
So the issue I'm finding is that when I have the car in drive and simply take the foot off the brake, the car does not move. The brakes are "too pressed" and seems to be engaged on the rotor all the time.
I plan on trying to fix this on Friday, any suggestions?
Edit- on the left side, which is don't think has an issue, I had trouble getting the caliper back on as the nut on the back of the caliper with that rubber piece that compressed was stuck, so after a ton of squeezing with the clamp it finally loosened where I could get the caliper back on and over the rotor. Think I should check that side too?
How many miles? Sounds like Piston binding in Bore due to corrosion. You had to retract Piston to fit the larger Pads. Old school would have you hone Bore and check Piston for pitting. Of course now a days its just replace Caliper. If you do that, replace both.
88k ish
I retracted the pistons using a c clamp and the old brake pad, and it retracted pretty easily once I used the proper tool.
But I see what you mean about pitting, I didn't check for anything like that
This issue of brakes being too tight did not exist before the new pads, if that makes any difference
It does. Rest of Piston was bathing in Brake fluid keeping it smooth. You retracted the part that was weathered, even though there was a boot on it
I have no idea what my wife is talking about with the steering column shaking on accelerating a normal drive, took it up to 100 and nothing but there is definitely steering column shaking when I did some pretty moderate to heavy braking to come down from that speed.
And the car being stuck even in drive as if the brakes were engaged was not present when I just turned it on, off
Maybe a dumb question but the tire doesn't have to go back on in the same exact position it was when I took it off right? Thinking of the little weights for balancing if those get out of position could that have an impact?
The wobble on breaking and for a little while afterwards make me think it's the rotor though
What can happen is rust builds up on Spindle. Did you clean contact points on Rim and Spindle?
That's a big nope, I didn't do anything with the rotors originally
Drove the whole way home and no burning smell, rotors seem quite smooth, the brakes were not tight preventing the roll etc. will see how it is tomorrow, but I think on the weekend I'll retrace my steps and see if there's anything needing cleaning and such as a start
Sounds like either the piston on the caliper is/was stuck or the caliper pins on the left caliper. The caliper pin should slide freely to allow the caliper to move as necessary. If that sticks, it could cause the conditions you described. Also, as far as the smell, if you got any brake fluid on the pads or the rotor and it wasn't cleaned off completely, you'll experience that "burning" smell which can be quite unpleasant until it's all burned off.
If you're checking it out again this weekend, I would definitely look at the pins again and also make sure the piston is able to be retracted completely with little effort. If either appears to be stuck, it might be worth replacing the associated caliper.
Good Luck
Got a question regarding my Audi. 2018 A5 Quattro 2.0t. 86,400 miles or so. I'm getting a drive system malfunction error. It happens typically when I accelerate. Fortunately the car isn't put into limp mode or safe mode; it's drivable but there's no telling for how long.
I had an Audi dealer look at it and they said the turbo shaft has some end play due to actuator shaft or something like that. Recommend replace the turbo. Their price is more than I'm willing to pay... (Audi dealer, extortion, almost $5k)
According to some of the videos I'm seeing on youtube, it's because the wastegate is sticking open or closed and causing issues and is a common problem with these engines.
It's a job I might be able to do but the removal of the heatshield screws, nuts holding the catalytic converter to the turbo housing, and the bolts holding on the array above the heatshield scare me and I don't want to break one of those off. I'm also concerned about the banjo bolts for the oil lines and cooling lines too. I don't want any leaks or broken parts or extra parts.
I've got the part number for turbo from the dealer but don't know if it'll translate to something useful on google. I also don't know who is the quality company to get a replacement from.
Any recommendations for an independent Audi repair shop or Audi mechanic in or around Columbia Sc?
I'll be rolling in a Kia or Titan since the Audi is parked until I get it fixed (it was diagnosed Friday).... so there's not a ton of urgency but it is my daily driver and I'll miss my car. Titan is a gas sucking pig and will cost me $$... the Kia is @dutchie's car when she's here visiting me, plus it's not my Audi. There's just no VROOM when I step on the go pedal. It's not a gutless wonder but there IS a difference... I want my A5. Help?
I had an Audi dealer look at it and they said the turbo shaft has some end play due to actuator shaft or something like that. Recommend replace the turbo. Their price is more than I'm willing to pay... (Audi dealer, extortion, almost $5k)
According to some of the videos I'm seeing on youtube, it's because the wastegate is sticking open or closed and causing issues and is a common problem with these engines.
It's a job I might be able to do but the removal of the heatshield screws, nuts holding the catalytic converter to the turbo housing, and the bolts holding on the array above the heatshield scare me and I don't want to break one of those off. I'm also concerned about the banjo bolts for the oil lines and cooling lines too. I don't want any leaks or broken parts or extra parts.
I've got the part number for turbo from the dealer but don't know if it'll translate to something useful on google. I also don't know who is the quality company to get a replacement from.
Any recommendations for an independent Audi repair shop or Audi mechanic in or around Columbia Sc?
I'll be rolling in a Kia or Titan since the Audi is parked until I get it fixed (it was diagnosed Friday).... so there's not a ton of urgency but it is my daily driver and I'll miss my car. Titan is a gas sucking pig and will cost me $$... the Kia is @dutchie's car when she's here visiting me, plus it's not my Audi. There's just no VROOM when I step on the go pedal. It's not a gutless wonder but there IS a difference... I want my A5. Help?
Good day with the QX60 today, new slotted & drilled rotors with ceramic pads all round plus the obligatory rotation. Not 100% happy with pedal feel, need to get them hot & bedded in properly and still option of of full fluid change as final fix.
Did the front brakes on my son's Forester yesterday and went to do the rears and found a seized slide pin on the drivers side. I'm not going to play with it so I ordered 2 new rear calipers.
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2011 Honda Pilot with @145 miles. It’s the daughter’s driver now. She’s had a few instances of the car driving somewhere and being shut off, then not starting. Symptoms are classic dead battery...except the battery and alternator test as good. The car does not make sounds like it’s the starter. Once jumped the car runs great without issue, until the “battery” issue happens again a month or so later. If it’s not the battery, alternator or starter…I’m thinking maybe something with the key or ignition, or maybe she’s not inserting the key properly. Thoughts?
Electrical gremlins suck. I’d look at the ignition key cylinder being worn, I’ve seen them release the key early (in the aux position) which then drains the battery.
Maybe try a fresh battery in the fob?
Take me back to the days of no fobs and separate keys for the doors and the ignition.
Send me a PM tomorrow and I’ll look it up on Alldata when I’m at work. Depending on where the turbo sits (front or back of the engine) it could be fairly easy or a PITA. I don’t know any good shops in Columbia, but I knew of an Audi/VW shop in Wilmington behind the airport that was really good. I’ll see if they’re still around.