M2Giles

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Albatross 2021 Club
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For the past few months I've been dealing with a toe side miss with my longer clubs.

It's gotten to the point that I have put lead tape on the toe of my 3 worst offenders (3 longest clubs in the bag).

But it's started to get me thinking that I should actually get a fitting done in the next few months (since equipment fixes swing flaws /sarcasm).

The two things I'll probably look at most is club length. Driver and fairways are all pretty short compared to standard and maybe a club head that has movable CG that can be placed toe side.

Any other thoughts or should I just continue rocking lead tape and get a lesson?
 
Lead tape has been used to adjust shaft flex/load traditonally. If you want to lower flight, less clubhead weight. Raise flight with more shaft flex/load, add weight to the clubhead.

Are your irons the Cobras in your sig? I have a set of the Forged CB's and they're a short blade length. Not a lot of room to miss. (y)
 
Are you holding your right shoulder back on the downswing? That solves my toe misses. Not holding it back
 
Lead tape has been used to adjust shaft flex/load traditonally. If you want to lower flight, less clubhead weight. Raise flight with more shaft flex/load, add weight to the clubhead.

Are your irons the Cobras in your sig? I have a set of the Forged CB's and they're a short blade length. Not a lot of room to miss. (y)

Irons have been fine. Occasionally have a toe miss, but iron play has been pretty good lately. It's mostly my driver, 3 wood, and 5 wood. It's to the point that I tee off with my 4 iron a lot.

Unsure about the shoulder now that I think about it. I have been thinking that there is something going on with me not extending through impact.
 
For the past few months I've been dealing with a toe side miss with my longer clubs.

It's gotten to the point that I have put lead tape on the toe of my 3 worst offenders (3 longest clubs in the bag).

But it's started to get me thinking that I should actually get a fitting done in the next few months (since equipment fixes swing flaws /sarcasm).

The two things I'll probably look at most is club length. Driver and fairways are all pretty short compared to standard and maybe a club head that has movable CG that can be placed toe side.

Any other thoughts or should I just continue rocking lead tape and get a lesson?

What’s the shot shape with the toe strike? As I’ve said in other threads, the typical answer you’ll hear is heel/toe strikes mean you need to check the length of the club. However, I see more cases where it’s a swing flaw rather than a club length issue.

Toe strikes can come from the face being closed at impact or the hands raising through impact causing the club head to shift towards you. Those are the most typical causes that I see. Lead tape can indirectly help in some cases because the added weight can cause the swing to shallow out (move more right for a right handed player). However, golfers don’t respond to weight the same. Some are effected easily by it while others subconsciously fight it hard.

My suggestion is to only change one thing at a time, so you know what the fix was. I also would suggest getting on a launch monitor if you have a place near you. That will tell you almost instantly what the cause is.
 
Shot shape is a push/block and if a bad toe strike a toe hook. Toe hooks usually are usually low leading me to believe that I've closed the face.

Pretty sure a portion of it is club length. Driver is 44", 3 wood is 42", and 5 wood is 40". I think it's more swing related, but definitely will probably go half inch longer next year.
 
Shot shape is a push/block and if a bad toe strike a toe hook. Toe hooks usually are usually low leading me to believe that I've closed the face.

Pretty sure a portion of it is club length. Driver is 44", 3 wood is 42", and 5 wood is 40". I think it's more swing related, but definitely will probably go half inch longer next year.

Has the issue always been around or just started recently? Without knowing you as a golfer or seeing your swing/data, my guess would be with the longer clubs you have a tendency to lift the hands through impact, bringing the club towards you. That would cause the block right and the occasional low left (left comes from when you get the club face square or left of path). However, that is just an educated guess at best. I wouldn't really even call it a swing flaw to be honest. If the typical miss it block/push, I wouldn't look into adding more weight to the head, as that typically (not always) causes the swing to shallow out more, and from what I'm hearing you don't need that help. Do you know the swing weight of your clubs?
 
Started about 2 months ago.

Swingweight of Driver is D6 right now.
3 wood and 5 wood are D4.

I noticed since adding lead tape, strikes feel more centered. Sorry I answered what poor swings cause which are push/block or toe hook. Ball draws as stock shape right now and the thought was lead tape to calm the draw and make toe strikes feel better.
 
Do you mean the finished/playing length of your driver/fw's is a little shorter than standard?
If so, the toe misses make sense. Too long, your pattern will be near the heel, too short, the toe.
Are you pretty tall?
 
Opposite. I'm 5'7". Those are the playing length of my clubs and what I've been playing length wise for the past 2 years.
 
One last thought:
3 different shaft profiles and balance points in your woods are confusing things? Isn't the HZRDS Yellow counter balanced?
 
Orange and Yellow are counterbalanced, white is not. Orange and white are pretty similar profile wise besides balance point. Smoke Yellow is kinda like a blue profile with less kick. Besides the yellow I've been playing both of those the past 2 years (switched at times between orange and white in driver, white has been in fairway for quite a while now)

Im likely to replace the yellow with another pro white since the yellow is my least favorite of the 3 profiles. Or look at something completely different for all three when I do a fitting.
 
One last thought:
3 different shaft profiles and balance points in your woods are confusing things? Isn't the HZRDS Yellow counter balanced?

You typically are not going to see the same profiles in driver through fairway woods. The swing is different. With driver you're hitting up on it and with fairway woods, you're hitting down on it. We want the shafts to do different things, so we aren't matching profiles majority of the time.

Opposite. I'm 5'7". Those are the playing length of my clubs and what I've been playing length wise for the past 2 years.

I don't think it's the length of the club, otherwise it would have manifested the day you changed it. Has anything in your golf bag changed at all in the last few months?

Also, a SpeedZone Extreme with a Tensei Pro Orange playing 44" at D6 means you've added a very large amount of weight to the head. Do you know by chance how much you've added?
 
The only changes in the bag has been stopping play for a bit when I switched jobs about 3ish months ago and didn't swing too much for about a month. Noticed strike moved towards the toe when coming back and has been there consistently July and August. When the toe strikes started I lofted up the driver from the lowest setting to the STD setting.

Headweight of the driver head is about 214g not including adapter. So roughly 222g including the adapter.
 
That's mongo weight. That will tire you out if anything during the course of a round. I'd start fresh and lose the lead tape.
If they worked at one point, they can again.
 
The only changes in the bag has been stopping play for a bit when I switched jobs about 3ish months ago and didn't swing too much for about a month. Noticed strike moved towards the toe when coming back and has been there consistently July and August. When the toe strikes started I lofted up the driver from the lowest setting to the STD setting.

Headweight of the driver head is about 214g not including adapter. So roughly 222g including the adapter.

Lofting the driver up with close the toe in, not exactly what you're after. Also, a driver headlight at 222g is extremely heavy. The load you're putting on the shaft is also going to cause some fairly large droop/deflection etc. A lot is being changed with that amount of head weight. While you may have seen some improvements, I would say its mostly from just the fact of change in general causing some swing dynamic changes, but over the long haul it probably won't be effective.
 
While equipment/fitting can play a role in a toe side miss, I’d look at the swing too.

Two common contributors to a toe side miss are coming too much from the inside and early extension.
 
When my tempo was too fast and I was swinging X flex rebar, super heavy setups forced me to slow down, but they can make for all sorts of bad habits too. Maybe your setups are just plain getting too heavy? Or stiff (new job, not as much play as you said.)
I looked at the iron shafts in your sig and see 130g there.
Are you using weight as a sort of swing bandaid? Been there.
Went from 110 stiff aerotechs down to 95 reg in my irons and the toe strikes were lessened quite a bit. Too heavy and stiff was doing it to me.
 
When my tempo was too fast and I was swinging X flex rebar, super heavy setups forced me to slow down, but they can make for all sorts of bad habits too. Maybe your setups are just plain getting too heavy? I looked at the iron shafts in your sig and see 130g there.
Are you using weight as a sort of swing bandaid? Been there.

I have a quick tempo and the weight helps me swing with a bit more control. When I got the SpeedZone Xtreme I stepped back down to a 60g class driver shaft from 70g class that i used with the F9. With F9 last year I ended up with a 10g and 18g weight in the head.

I had one fitting that put me in a lighter iron shaft weight, but that was a one off and I switched out of those irons within 4ish months. Usually if modus 130 is an option I usually end up with them. If not it's usually project x or ctaper. Feel wise I like modus the best. Don't have too much of strike issue with irons/wedges right now and my yardages have been pretty easy to hit.

Driver fittings I usually get handed a 70g class shaft to help control my lack of tempo.
 
I have a quick tempo and the weight helps me swing with a bit more control. When I got the SpeedZone Xtreme I stepped back down to a 60g class driver shaft from 70g class that i used with the F9. With F9 last year I ended up with a 10g and 18g weight in the head.

I had one fitting that put me in a lighter iron shaft weight, but that was a one off and I switched out of those irons within 4ish months. Usually if modus 130 is an option I usually end up with them. If not it's usually project x or ctaper. Feel wise I like modus the best. Don't have too much of strike issue with irons/wedges right now and my yardages have been pretty easy to hit.

Driver fittings I usually get handed a 70g class shaft to help control my lack of tempo.
Sounds all very similar. (y)C-tapers and PX are sitting unused in the basement now. Best round ever came with 70g stiff driver shaft.
Its a lot of weight you're moving in the swing and adding to the heads, and it does affect the shaft droop, face closure rates, etc.
Even if you enjoy playing heavier setups, I think you've moved to the extreme end of the spectrum with all that lead tape.
Peel some/all of that off of there and give the pro a call for some tempo assistance. (y)
 
By chance, is the toe strike worse with driver and 5 wood than it is with the 3 wood?

Yes. 3 wood is slight toe side but no crazy toe hooks. 5 wood and driver are more toe side, but center strikes usually end up with a closed face. Driver is on STD setting and 5 wood is on +1* setting.

The driver was working well in the spring. 5 wood the change is from an Atmos TS Blue to the Hzrdus Smoke Yellow to remove a bit of the kick feeling.

Sounds all very similar. (y)C-tapers and PX are sitting unused in the basement now. Best round ever came with 70g stiff driver shaft.
Its a lot of weight you're moving in the swing and adding to the heads, and it does affect the shaft droop, face closure rates, etc.
Even if you enjoy playing heavier setups, I think you've moved to the extreme end of the spectrum with all that lead tape.
Peel some/all of that off of there and give the pro a call for some tempo assistance. (y)

That's probably the answer always. Go see a pro.
 
Have you tried standing an inch closer to the ball?

Sometimes fixes are easy, usually they’re not.
 
Have you tried standing an inch closer to the ball?

Sometimes fixes are easy, usually they’re not.

That's what I was trying yesterday during a practice round. 3 wood and 5 wood were not as noticable for toe strikes. Driver still was toe side.
 
If the 3 wood is not as prevalent, we need to have you feel the head more. That’s been made obvious by the rest of your bag, and your desire to add weight to the head. However, we are going about it wrong. You’re setups are fighting themselves. A counter balanced shaft is not what I would put you into since we need to get you feeling that head more. Do you have any backup shafts available that aren’t counterbalanced? I would try moving the head weight back to the 205-208g range and playing it at 44.75-45” with a non counter balanced shaft.
 
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