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What are you building? (Club style)

Arlo said:
Adams CBI have very little offset, relatively little bounce; so I use a sharp hand file if bounce is more than comfortable.
Would only do this on soft forged carbon steel irons. they bend easily and soft enough to file .
With good stout graphite shaft tips, I bend with a bending bar and butt end on the floor. You learn the limit of flexing the shaft. I have broken a couple of shafts over the years, so probably not a recommended practice.
Im a little neurotic about getting them just the way I want them and enjoy doing it.
specs including offset without the other website stuff.+ pics to show offset and bounce after bending

RE loft
Loft is increased when bent to remove offset. More or less equally down the line, I would say a little closer to old school lofts.
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Good to know! Very cool that you're able to make those changes on your own. How do you know the loft/lie are correct? I was going to get a clamp and bending bar, but adding a measuring device was going to push me over budget for my home repairs. Plus loft/lie changes are only a few bucks a head at my local shop so didn't think it was worth it.

Also, are you concerned about losing too much head weight when you're grinding the heads down for bounce? Do you have to compensate with lead tape or powder? I got some Zipcore Tour Raw wedges with the specialty grinds, and was surprised how much lighter the heads were compared to stock due to the grinding. Thankfully I play my wedges pretty long or else it would have taken a bunch of lead powder to get them back to normal.
 
Evolvingwildes said:
Thanks for sharing the thread! Just read through a few pages...how had I never heard of these irons until now?! And what's the deal with Adam's these days? Did they switch to a DTC model? I haven't seen their offereing in the golf shop in a long time.
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Adams was run by Chip Brewer. Head of design was Michael Vrska. SR VP was Tim Reed.

Chip left to run Callaway and Tim Reed went with him. Michael Vrska ran innovation for Wilson and then worked with THP (lots of videos and content) and is now working with Chip and Tim at Callaway. You can actually hear from Michael Vrska in the latest podcast episode of Off Course on the right hand side of the forum.

The brand started struggling at that point and was purchased by TaylorMade Golf, who still owns it and is putting out entry level bargain clubs DTC.
 
Evolvingwildes said:
Good to know! Very cool that you're able to make those changes on your own. How do you know the loft/lie are correct? I was going to get a clamp and bending bar, but adding a measuring device was going to push me over budget for my home repairs. Plus loft/lie changes are only a few bucks a head at my local shop so didn't think it was worth it.

Also, are you concerned about losing too much head weight when you're grinding the heads down for bounce? Do you have to compensate with lead tape or powder? I got some Zipcore Tour Raw wedges with the specialty grinds, and was surprised how much lighter the heads were compared to stock due to the grinding. Thankfully I play my wedges pretty long or else it would have taken a bunch of lead powder to get them back to normal.
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There is no generally accepted standard for lofts, for better or worse.
IMO, the most important of the variables is lie angle. I bend lie angle to be consistent throughout all the clubs.
ie hands are in same position above the ground. With sole flat on the ground, I have butt end of the grip the same height from the ground for all my clubs.*
I dont know if that coincides with industry standards, but seems to suit me and it takes a minute to check one against another.

I find that lie angle on soft forged carbon steel irons, need constant maintenance. For that reason alone, suggest to buy a bending bar.

I never clamp when I am bending with a bending bar. I let the graphite shaft bend as I am bending the head or hosel. Scary, eh?
The most filing of bounce, after taking out offset, Ive done is with my Vokey wedges. With those wide soles bounce can get out of hand. I posted pics of the CMB 6 iron after taking out offset, with no filing of bounce angle necessary.
I would not try to zero out offset with steel shafts. I tried with a Scratch SW and snapped the steel shaft.

*George Knudson's comment about golf club design always stuck with me.
"design of the golf club, has butt end the same distance from the ground for all clubs"

14:10
 
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Arlo said:
There is no generally accepted standard for lofts, for better or worse.
IMO, the most important of the variables is lie angle. I bend lie angle to be consistent throughout all the clubs.
ie hands are in same position above the ground. With sole flat on the ground, I have butt end of the grip the same height from the ground for all my clubs. I dont know if that coincides with industry standards, but seems to suit me and it takes a minute to check one against another.

I find that lie angle on soft forged carbon steel irons, need constant maintenance. For that reason alone, suggest to buy a bending bar.

I never clamp when I am bending with a bending bar. I let the graphite shaft bend as I am bending the head or hosel. Scary, eh?
The most filing of bounce, after taking out offset, Ive done is with my Vokey wedges. With those wide soles bounce can get out of hand. I posted pics of the CMB 6 iron after taking out offset, with no filing of bounce angle necessary.
I would not try to zero out offset with steel shafts. I tried with a Scratch SW and snapped the steel shaft.
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So you're just clamping the irons via the shaft in a vice, and then bending the head? Maybe I'm misunderstanding, as it seems like the shaft would break before the head bends. Looks like that's the case with steel shafts, and graphite it's mostly fine? That's also counterintuitive to me :LOL:

And not going to lie (no pun intended), your concept of using the hand height off the ground as the basis for lie angle changes seems pretty ingenious. I wonder if that's typically how length + lie angle works anyways for stock irons sets, and I've just never realized that. I'm going to go check right now haha.

Just out of curiosity, what makes you go with "sole flat on the ground" versus dynamic lie angle which takes into account shaft deflection during the swing? I typically have an upright lie angle, even though I think the toe kinda sits above the ground, as it ends up flat when I'm swinging the club.
 
Evolvingwildes said:
So you're just clamping the irons via the shaft in a vice, and then bending the head? Maybe I'm misunderstanding, as it seems like the shaft would break before the head bends. Looks like that's the case with steel shafts, and graphite it's mostly fine? That's also counterintuitive to me :LOL:

And not going to lie (no pun intended), your concept of using the hand height off the ground as the basis for lie angle changes seems pretty ingenious. I wonder if that's typically how length + lie angle works anyways for stock irons sets, and I've just never realized that. I'm going to go check right now haha.

Just out of curiosity, what makes you go with "sole flat on the ground" versus dynamic lie angle which takes into account shaft deflection during the swing? I typically have an upright lie angle, even though I think the toe kinda sits above the ground, as it ends up flat when I'm swinging the club.
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RE : bending forged carbon steel irons without vice.
The shafts I use are Nunchuk, probably as stiff a tip in the business. the hole in the tip is as a pin hole, all composite.
( called Tri modal: flexible section is located near mid point, slo mo on Nventix website)
There is virtually no kick, no twist, no dip, no gear effect, at impact. it returns to square more consistently, by design, so less prone to needing dynamic lie angle adjustment IMO.
You can be sure Nventix wont suggest my method of bending. LOL

Assembled with the shaft, I use hand held bending bar to bend to reduce offset and lie angle bracing the butt end of the grip against the floor/ground. Of course the shaft bends but I stop and repeat as often as needed to achieve final orientation of the head. Steel shafts dont give and break quicker.

PS When ever I check other players clubs, have found one or two clubs that they dont hit well , have a different lie angle than the others. Check your own and let us know what you find. Will be interesting, since note your a + hdcp.
 
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Adding adapters to these

91B2B648-B2BD-452C-8934-4636CE4FF746.jpeg
 
Arlo said:
RE : bending forged carbon steel irons without vice.
The shafts I use are Nunchuk, probably as stiff a tip in the business. the hole in the tip is as a pin hole, all composite.
( called Tri modal: flexible section is located near mid point, slo mo on Nventix website)
There is virtually no kick, no twist, no dip at impact. it returns to square more consistently, by design, so less prone to needing dynamic lie angle adjustment IMO.
You can be sure Nventix wont suggest my method of bending. LOL

Assembled with the shaft, I use hand held bending bar to bend to reduce offset and lie angle bracing the butt end of the grip against the floor/ground. Of course the shaft bends but I stop and repeat as often as needed to achieve final orientation of the head. Steel doesnt give and breaks quicker.

PS When ever I check other players clubs, have found one or two clubs that they dont hit well , have a different lie angle than the others. Check your own and let us know what you find. Will be interesting, since note your a + hdcp.
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Lots of interesting stuff to digest here, appreciate you answering all my questions!

Now I know if I tried that same bending technique I'd probably wack myself in the nether regions and break the golf club myself. If I ever do end up getting a bending bar in the future (very real possibility) then I will of course VERY tentatively see if I can figure out how that method works.

As for lie angles, I actually already went and checked a couple of my sets. I noticed that one set had my hands much higher in the long irons, likely due to being too upright. The other set I checked were very close from short to long-irons. Both are relatively new builds, so can't really say for sure if performance is better/worse in either case, but will report back as they get more playing time.
 
Evolvingwildes said:
Lots of interesting stuff to digest here, appreciate you answering all my questions!

Now I know if I tried that same bending technique I'd probably wack myself in the nether regions and break the golf club myself. If I ever do end up getting a bending bar in the future (very real possibility) then I will of course VERY tentatively see if I can figure out how that method works.

As for lie angles, I actually already went and checked a couple of my sets. I noticed that one set had my hands much higher in the long irons, likely due to being too upright. The other set I checked were very close from short to long-irons. Both are relatively new builds, so can't really say for sure if performance is better/worse in either case, but will report back as they get more playing time.
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Appreciate the feedback. Curious if lie angles are mostly the same comparing one set to the other.
For years I would find one or two clubs I hit better than others. When I found out why, I check lie angle before
anything else, when things seem to go bad.
BTW I use same hand position for irons and woods. Is that bass ackward.
 
YukonLiving said:
Hello! Love me some blue!

What adapters are being fitted?
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Tour Edge on one and Callaway on the other. We will have some good content on these in a couple of weeks
 
Got the adapter installed on the MMT. Down side is since it’s a Callaway pull there is still a 1/4” sanded area showing but doesn’t look terrible and prior to installing the adapter I had just flipped the shaft and heard something inside the shaft. I was like what the heck?!?! Well I had to cut the pretty much brand new grip off and it was a piece of epoxy from the old adapter. So had to order tape and a new grip….oh well, the LIN-Q purple needed a new grip anyways so it’s all good. 632D17CF-43F0-4F2C-A8FF-10AAC9DD4691.jpeg
 
baylrballa said:
View attachment 9023295

Now I need to learn how to turn ferrules one day. 🤔
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Nice choice!

I saw the photo and after admiring the colour and pattern, I thought “oh, I hope the next step is for those ferrules to get turned”.

I turn mine by hand. I wrap the hosel and shaft with a piece of masking tape to prevent marring and knock down some of the extra ferrule material with a higher grit sandpaper - like 200 grit or so. Then grab a rag and dab it with acetone. I pinch the shaft under my arm and twirl using the club head with one hand while gently applying the acetone rag to the ferrule with the other. Trick is to just keep the club spinning while the rag is touching the ferrule. It really doesn’t take much to smooth them out.
 
baylrballa said:
Now I need to learn how to turn ferrules one day. 🤔
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YukonLiving said:
Nice choice!

I saw the photo and after admiring the colour and pattern, I thought “oh, I hope the next step is for those ferrules to get turned”.

I turn mine by hand. I wrap the hosel and shaft with a piece of masking tape to prevent marring and knock down some of the extra ferrule material with a higher grit sandpaper - like 200 grit or so. Then grab a rag and dab it with acetone. I pinch the shaft under my arm and twirl using the club head with one hand while gently applying the acetone rag to the ferrule with the other. Trick is to just keep the club spinning while the rag is touching the ferrule. It really doesn’t take much to smooth them out.
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Same boat here @baylrballa - never turned a ferrule as I've been too worried about screwing it up and having to redo the build.

@YukonLiving seems straightforward enough though, appreciate you describing how to do it! I'll give it a shot on some older builds, and if it turns out okay then I'll do my new set with BB&Fs.
 
JB said:
Adams was run by Chip Brewer. Head of design was Michael Vrska. SR VP was Tim Reed.

Chip left to run Callaway and Tim Reed went with him. Michael Vrska ran innovation for Wilson and then worked with THP (lots of videos and content) and is now working with Chip and Tim at Callaway. You can actually hear from Michael Vrska in the latest podcast episode of Off Course on the right hand side of the forum.

The brand started struggling at that point and was purchased by TaylorMade Golf, who still owns it and is putting out entry level bargain clubs DTC.
Click to expand...

Wow never knew any of this stuff, but makes sense now why we don't see Adams in the stores any more. Thanks for the background, and I will definitely check out the podcast!
 
I replaced the 7-PW with Z Forged heads that I played last season.
 
If you are a club builder, you will NOT want to miss Off Course this Friday.
 
Finished off switching back to the Z Forged irons in the 5 & 6 and put a VA Raijin 74 in the 3 wood.
 
Just tried out the 7i I built the other night and it felt great. Maltby KE4 Tour + and Maltby MPF Pro Series R Flex graphite shaft. While I'm not a serious club builder, it sure is nice to have the ability and option to throw a shaft on a club head.

My bag is pretty much where I want it even though I'm only using 12 clubs. Every club from GW to Driver are a matching set - with the exception of a recent change to an S flex on the driver. The LW and SW have steel shafts and that part of my game is as solid as it's ever been. I haven't hit many with the new driver yet but I'm optimistic - or at least hopeful - the new shaft will help keep more balls in play off the tee.
 
I'm building some T100 tonight with hard stepped IO 6.5, and it's gonna be GLORIOUS.
 
OldandStiff said:
I'm building some T100 tonight with hard stepped IO 6.5, and it's gonna be GLORIOUS.
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The more tipping, the more weight is added to the butt for counter balancing and butt stiffness, with mid flex .... thats a good thing.
 
YukonLiving said:
Those are going to be STOUT! Grips?
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I grabbed some black (and silver and whatever other nonsense is on them) Super Stroke Cross Comfort for about $3 each, so if I can stand them, I'll use them. If not I have Z Softs, and 360 blackout velvet, and a bunch of other options. I'm hoping I can stand the CC. I love Z Softs, but I think the harder rubber (I used to mostly play wraps) is taking a toll on my hands.
 
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