Awesome. Will be picking one up then. Finally I'll be able to do anything I want.Easy peasy.
Club in, secured, use jack to apply pressure, heat, apply more pressure, head/adapter off.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
Awesome. Will be picking one up then. Finally I'll be able to do anything I want.Easy peasy.
Club in, secured, use jack to apply pressure, heat, apply more pressure, head/adapter off.
Easy peasy.
Club in, secured, use jack to apply pressure, heat, apply more pressure, head/adapter off.
Awesome. Will be picking one up then. Finally I'll be able to do anything I want.
And this will be here Wednesday. ?Most will tell you Roberts, but they have been few and far between as far as finding one goes the past few months. My old puller died and I got tired of waiting so I went with this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLF-SHAFT-...828875?hash=item25c17a9f8b:g:Y2AAAOSwu4BVwOys
Its really freaking good, incredibly sturdy, can be mounted or operated as is.
I figured out why the epoxy failed on my HZRDUS shaft in the callaway adapter - shaft .355, adapter .370. Reinstalled with a shim and it should be good to go.
Easy peasy.
Club in, secured, use jack to apply pressure, heat, apply more pressure, head/adapter off.
I always do both when building my clubs. I'm waiting on a shaft from Golf works for my Titleist. Have a bunch of adapters so I can do some tinkering.I actually had two epoxy fails in callaway adapters this year. One I put in and another a vendor installed prior to shipping. In both cases, just needed to better prep the shaft. I also like to rough up the inside of the adapter a bit too.
Put a new shaft in my driver...
Yessir, just not the ferrulesCan you reuse the adapters?
Can you reuse the adapters?
Unless you are me. Doh! Ruined 2 adapters I tried to pull off. Need to use the heat gun and just bide my time. Mini torch is not a good idea.Yessir, just not the ferrules
Can you reuse the adapters?
I have one of those adaptor savers from Golf works. If very careful with the heat, can save and reuse both adaptor and ferruleYessir, just not the ferrules
This sounds like a good idea. Adaptors are not cheap. would be good to reuse themI have one of those adaptor savers from Golf works. If very careful with the heat, can save and reuse both adaptor and ferrule
Going to shorten a putter shaft this weekend and throw a new grip on. What do you guys use to cut down steel shafts? I've heard of people just using a hacksaw, will that work?
Going to shorten a putter shaft this weekend and throw a new grip on. What do you guys use to cut down steel shafts? I've heard of people just using a hacksaw, will that work?
Anyone ever have an issue with epoxy curing on a driver head/shaft? I have built clubs for a few years now and never had an issue up until my current build.
I am doing a AeroBurner TP driver head on an LZ shaft.
My process:
I prep the shaft by sanding it down to remove any old epoxy and to expose the raw graphite.
Then I have a drill adapter that uses a sandpaper "roll" to clean/prep the driver hosel.
I made sure the hosel was showing exposed metal and was roughed up nicely.
The first time I put it together the club was usable for like 10 hits at the range, then the head completely turned like the epoxy never set right. Then the second time I let the club cure for a few days and I went to hit it at the range last night. The head literally slipped off the shaft clean after one hit! Both times I was using the longer setting (4hr set time, 24hr use) Golfworks epoxy which I have only used twice on a wedge and an iron. Both were fine and didn't have this issue.
Last night I went back to my old 15 min set time Brampton's epoxy, to see if it is an issue with the other epoxy never really setting up right. Hopefully this will do the trick! So frustrating.
The epoxy I used is brand new, maybe a few months old. I don't clean the hosel out with anything but a dry cotton swab b/c I worry if I use a chemical it might weaken the bond. I use a nice thin layer of epoxy both on the shaft/in the hosel. I usually toss the mixing piece after I am done, but def. a good idea I never though of. The hosel fit on this particular one is a little lose, but no where near the need for a shim etc. I also use glass shafting beads to help. I do this in my living room that stays around 70ish degrees.Could be a few things. Is the epoxy you're using a little older or is it fairly new stuff? Do you clean the inside of the hosel after sanding with acetone, or another substance?
Your process looks right on paper, are you using enough epoxy? do you let the leftover epoxy cure on the side on to see what it looks like after? Is the hosel fit snug or sloppy? And what room/temperature are you letting the club sit in to cure?
The epoxy I used is brand new, maybe a few months old. I don't clean the hosel out with anything but a dry cotton swab b/c I worry if I use a chemical it might weaken the bond. I use a nice thin layer of epoxy both on the shaft/in the hosel. I usually toss the mixing piece after I am done, but def. a good idea I never though of. The hosel fit on this particular one is a little lose, but no where near the need for a shim etc. I also use glass shafting beads to help. I do this in my living room that stays around 70ish degrees.
I honestly just think the epoxy never quite cured right, we'll see what happens with my quick set job.
yeah the process sounds ok, maybe perhaps try a slight bit more epoxy on the club. You can clean the hosel out with acetone on a cotton swab, that's no issue there.
With the rest of that info sounding good, it really sounds probably like a bad mixing of the epoxy. Really work that stuff for a good solid minute (use a timer) and make sure it's really well mixed. Another thing to consider is that if you're only mixing enough for a small amount like a driver repair, its very tough to measure out a perfect 50/50 of your epoxy. Perhaps next time make a bigger batch, it becomes easier to get it closer to a true 50/50 mix and really be able to stir it up well especially if it doesn't seem to be curing.