When pulling graphite shafts...how much heat?

[V14_Heels]

Are you using direct flame for 30 seconds?

A heat gun? If a heat gun what setting, most have a low medium and high?

Are you keeping the shaft pull pressure on it as you heat or heating first then pulling?

Any and all tips appreciated.

 

[DNice26]

Heat gun and as little heat as is possible. I’m no expert but this approach has worked for me. I also prefer to pull shaft adapter tips off as opposed to pushing them off.

 

[Bosco...]

I don’t think a heat gun is the best bet. I swear I think I remember an Off Course where one of the Callaway guys mentioned that’s an easy way to ruin graphite and that a micro torch was better.

 

[MemeMaynard]

I always use a propane torch and a shaft puller.

 

[JB]

As little heat as possible and the most strength from a puller as possible.

if someone hits a shaft with heat for 30 seconds, that shaft is ruined

 

[leftybob]

The budget shaft puller from golfworks is a great investment if you’re regularly working on graphite shaft. The shaft puller makes it easy to use the least amount of heat possible.

I use a tiny butane kitchen torch for heat

 

[MacTourney]

Are you using direct flame for 30 seconds?

A heat gun? If a heat gun what setting, most have a low medium and high?

Are you keeping the shaft pull pressure on it as you heat or heating first then pulling?

Any and all tips appreciated.

Stay with thread theme. You might also try picking up a few graphite shafted clubs in a thrift store for a few dollars more and see what it takes.

 

[V14_Heels]

As little heat as possible and the most strength from a puller as possible.

if someone hits a shaft with heat for 30 seconds, that shaft is ruined

When you say ruined, help me understand that a bit. If I’m looking at used graphite shafts and it looks there could have been a layer of graphite stripped does that truly alter it he performance a great deal, or is it more along the lines of it’s simply more prone to breakage than it would have been?

 

[JB]

When you say ruined, help me understand that a bit. If I’m looking at used graphite shafts and it looks there could have been a layer of graphite stripped does that truly alter it he performance a great deal, or is it more along the lines of it’s simply more prone to breakage than it would have been?

Yes.
There is far more da
age than just a single layer at that much heat

 

[JTinMO]

Spring loaded puller, and a butane micro torch. It only takes about 15 seconds of heat at most on the hosel and it starts moving.

 

[CorvetteGuy]

Once you get a feel for it one may not need to do this trick -- but using a heat source of your choice - as you heat the adapter or head hosel up -- drop a few drops of water on the area - if it does not sizzle - it may be too cool but as soon as it sizzles it is the correct temperature - remove he heat and the adapter epoxy bond should be broken.

 

[Just_Brad]

I use a propane torch, with as little exposure as possible.

My experience is more for items I am experimenting with, and am not shook if it gwts ruined. For important stuff, that I really want pulled properly, I would go to a shop (even though they may be more haphazard with it than I am).

 

[golfs_happy]

As little as possible!

 

[MGoBlue]

I use a micro butane torch at home, and a heat gun for graphite at PGATSS. In either case, as much pull pressure as possible right from the beginning. That way you know as soon as the epoxy breaks.

 

[JTinMO]

I use a propane torch, with as little exposure as possible.

My experience is more for items I am experimenting with, and am not shook if it gwts ruined. For important stuff, that I really want pulled properly, I would go to a shop (even though they may be more haphazard with it than I am).

If you have good equipment I am a million percent sure you would take more care and better care when working on your stuff. It’s natural. Shops are out to get it done. Not get it done with extreme care and good finishing. the finishing is where they have fallen short for me. Slightly crooked grips, grip tape sticking out the end of the grip. Epoxy out the top of adapters, epoxy on club heads from fingers, etc.

 

[CorvetteGuy]

If you have good equipment I am a million percent sure you would take more care and better care when working on your stuff. It’s natural. Shops are out to get it done. Not get it done with extreme care and good finishing. the finishing is where they have fallen short for me. Slightly crooked grips, grip tape sticking out the end of the grip. Epoxy out the top of adapters, epoxy on club heads from fingers, etc.

Above is correct and that is why years ago I started doing all my own club work - and fitting myself to what is best for me.

 

[badolds]

I use the golfworks graphite shaft puller. I put it under full tension before applying any heat. I use direct high heat on the hosel until the epoxy breaks lose then quickly remove the iron head or shaft tip. I can touch the graphite shaft with my bare hand immediately so I know the heat did not wick into the shaft. It is warm to the touch but not hot. I have a heat gun but I feel like it works too slow.

 

[CorvetteGuy]

I prefer no heat gun since the size of the heat circle it makes is too large.. a torch with a fine needle point flame is best so to concentrate it right at the center of the adapter. The Shaft above the adapter or hosel never sees any heat. additionally, after the shaft is free I stick a small diameter steel rod about 2 feet long into the shaft from the grip end and use that to remove the small amount of epoxy inside the shaft. The shaft must have a free air passage thru the grip end before and when installing the shaft on a new adapter or club.

 

[MGoBlue]

If you have good equipment I am a million percent sure you would take more care and better care when working on your stuff. It’s natural. Shops are out to get it done. Not get it done with extreme care and good finishing. the finishing is where they have fallen short for me. Slightly crooked grips, grip tape sticking out the end of the grip. Epoxy out the top of adapters, epoxy on club heads from fingers, etc.

Then you’re going to the wrong shop. Out PGATSS shop doesn’t tolerate that stuff.

 

[CorvetteGuy]

Then you’re going to the wrong shop. Out PGATSS shop doesn’t tolerate that stuff.

True - Golf shops are similar to Auto repair shops.. there are some that are dedicated to doing a good job and proud of customer satisfaction.. and there are some auto shops that should not be doing anything more than oil changes and vacuuming interiors.

 

[golfinnut]

Heat gun with a shaft puller keep rotating the heat around the hosel as much as possible

 

[JTinMO]

Then you’re going to the wrong shop. Out PGATSS shop doesn’t tolerate that stuff.

Good to hear. I gave up going to shops a few years ago after letting three different ones do work for me within a year, and all had what I described. Some minor grip change issues I can almost understand as they probably are done by the rookie techs. It was the epoxy not fully cleaned up and residue on my heads that put me over the top. I started buying my own tools that night.

Part of my distain is also the cost. It’s tough for me to pay the up charge for something I can do myself.

 

[rallo]

I use a torch while keeping constant aggressive tension on my shaft puller so the shaft spends the least amount of time possible with the heat. It usually doesn’t take more than 10 seconds and. *knock on wood* haven’t damaged a shaft yet.

It’s also good to have some shop cloths around and your hosel brush as this is the best time to gently clean the spent epoxy off of the shaft and hosel.

 

[JonMA1]

Thanks for asking this question, @V14_Heels. After trying and failing to make one myself, I need to just buy a budget shaft puller from GolfWorks and stop applying so much heat.

 

[dozer933]

micro butane torch, maybe 15 seconds is needed. The shaft tip will come out warm to touch at most. I stay away from heat guns with graphite.