Why am I pulling with this shaft?!?!?!?

Nippon Shafts

Shank Aaron

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Apologies in advance for the long post, but this is driving me nuts.

Driver- Mavrik Standard 9* 10 gram sole weight.
Usual shaft- Rogue White 60X
Swing Speed- 105-108
Usual ball flight- straight, 10 yard cut/fade
Usual miss- Hardcore slice
Handicap- 15 as of yesterdays update....don't judge me, its been a strange year.

Let me preface this by saying that I was only tinkering with this shaft based on my club fitters (and best friends) recommendation. I'm not displeased with the stock shaft, and wasn't on the warpath to change it, but I'm also not married to it if something else performs better for my swing and game. The post you will read below is more me trying to satisfy my own OCD in figuring out WHY I'm doing what I do with this shaft. It really has me twisted up in my own head, and my fitter/buddy is unavailable to answer this for me for at least another week.

So, I get the Fuji Motore X F3 x-stiff from my buddy to test out and see what happens last week. I took it out to the range on Tuesday and Thursday to get a feel for it, and gamed it Friday and yesterday for 18 each day. From the first ball on the range Tuesday to the last ball on Saturday all I could do consistently was pull the ball hard left. No curve, no hook. Just straight left with a ton of speed and even more distance. Lets get one thing very clear. I am a classic over-the-top swinger and have worked hard to minimize that to the point where that path nets me a pretty consistent 5-15 fade shot shape. I NEVER go left, not even by accident. With this shaft all I did was pull the ball.

I went out to the range this morning just to make sure I wasn't crazy with a game plan. I hit the Motore and the stock Rogue White 10 straight shots, then put them both down and hit a 7 iron for 5 shots just to reset. Then I hit both shafts 10 more times alternating every 5 shots. I only counted shots that were consistent with my usual performance, and did not measure any data, only flight path and direction. Here's what I got.

1st 10
Motore- 8 of 10 shots were left of center from 25-75 yards all straight pulls. Mid-High shot height, seemed very long. If pressed, I'd have to guess avg. of 260. Consistent center of face contact.
Rogue White- 4 shots straight, 5 shots were 5-10 cuts, 1 hard slice off the toe. Mid/High ball flight, consistently landed at the 250 marker. Consistent center of face contact.

2nd 10
Motore- 3 of 5 were more of the hard pulls in the first 10, second 5 were not as far offline, but still straight pulls.
Rogue- Both sets were within my usual expected ball flights. Nothing new here.

At the end of this mornings session, I also took 10 shots each with the Ventus Blue, and the Speeder Evo VI 661 that I have for this driver with very similar results to the Rogue's results. So the main question is this- why am I pulling this shaft so consistently when I have similar performance out of the stock Rogue, the Ventus Blue, and the Speeder Evo VI 661. The Motore isn't THAT much different from the other two Fuji shafts I have, is it? Anyone have experience with something like this happening to them, or with the Motore X? Thanks in advance.
 

Knot Right

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Different (balance points - bend points - kick points) between shafts can wreak havoc with your rhythm, tempo, and release.

It takes a lot of hitting balls to get used to one shaft, never mind trying 4 or 5 manufacturers at the same time. They will all feel and load differently
 

Smiter

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Different (balance points - bend points - kick points) between shafts can wreak havoc with your rhythm, tempo, and release.

It takes a lot of hitting balls to get used to one shaft, never mind trying 4 or 5 manufacturers at the same time. They will all feel and load differently
What he said. I have a feeling that you’re feeling it load differently and altering your swing subconsciously to try to fight it. I can have some really varied results with different shafts, even of the same profile. But to be that far offline, it has to be mechanical.
 

Smiter

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One more thought just because I got taken for this once....

Is it possible that you have a counterfeit shaft? Was it bought from a reputable dealer or an eBay seller?

Quick Edit-there are reputable eBay sellers too and even if bought from a reputable dealer I’ve seen stranger things than them inadvertently selling you a counterfeit.
 

Shank Aaron

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One more thought just because I got taken for this once....

Is it possible that you have a counterfeit shaft? Was it bought from a reputable dealer or an eBay seller?

Quick Edit-there are reputable eBay sellers too and even if bought from a reputable dealer I’ve seen stranger things than them inadvertently selling you a counterfeit.
Good point to bring up, for sure. I got it from my fitter who's an authorized Fuji dealer, among other brands. Appreciate your input, bud.
 

-CRW-

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It’s probably your swing with the torque differences in the shafts. Softer torque allows the head to twist which results in anywhere from the fade to a slice.

The pull is the same swing but with a square face. The lower torque of the stiffer shaft will keep the head squared longer resulting in the pull.
 

blueonblack

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Not sure how the new iteration plays compared to the previous Motore profiles, but I liked the F1 75x as a 3W/fairway shafft. I tried the F1 65x as a driver shaft and experienced much the same as you are experiencing. Very stable butt ends on those shafts, which lends me to believe more butt end weighting than some, and the tip is fairly active. It definitely had an extra gear to it.
I tended to want to hit down on my 3W and de-lofted some, so it worked out in that sense. So many profiles with F1, F3, etc.
Original UST Attas comes to mind as kind of similar. If you don't like/need counterbalancing, it helps swing more from the inside, so it can give the lefts for sure.
 

PapaJohick

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As others have said it’s just a different shaft profile and it doesn’t fit your swing. Whether it’s “stiffer quote or different torque or kick point or whatever. Just doesn’t fit you.

i’m not a huge shift person, but don’t force a chef to work for you just because it’s the latest and greatest. Get back to your old one that you’re comfortable with and if you feel like you need to MoveOn then test some different ones out
 

GolfMT36

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It’s probably your swing with the torque differences in the shafts. Softer torque allows the head to twist which results in anywhere from the fade to a slice.

The pull is the same swing but with a square face. The lower torque of the stiffer shaft will keep the head squared longer resulting in the pull.
Torque is primarily about feel. You are not going to see ball flight changes based on torque. Torque is the last spec anyone should really pay attention to when looking at shafts. Get the weight, balance, profile/feel, cost, appearance all figured out and then go with whatever the torque is that the manufacturer decided on.
 

-CRW-

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Torque is primarily about feel. You are not going to see ball flight changes based on torque. Torque is the last spec anyone should really pay attention to when looking at shafts. Get the weight, balance, profile/feel, cost, appearance all figured out and then go with whatever the torque is that the manufacturer decided on.
That is incorrect. Plenty of tests out there proving otherwise. I’ve even done my own testing with the UST VTS line.

 

GolfMT36

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That is incorrect. Plenty of tests out there proving otherwise. I’ve even done my own testing with the UST VTS line.

There is a whole lot of marketing hype in this.

Not sure how you isolate torque from the other variables to be able to test it. The torque is tied into the other specs. Low launch and heavy shafts are going to have lower torques to match up with stronger golfers. High launch, light weight will do the opposite. Again, pick the shaft that has the correct weight and balance, then profile and flex. If those are correct, the torque will be fine. You don't fit for torque, it goes along for the ride.

Marketing hype on full display.
 

-CRW-

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There is a whole lot of marketing hype in this.

Not sure how you isolate torque from the other variables to be able to test it. The torque is tied into the other specs. Low launch and heavy shafts are going to have lower torques to match up with stronger golfers. High launch, light weight will do the opposite. Again, pick the shaft that has the correct weight and balance, then profile and flex. If those are correct, the torque will be fine. You don't fit for torque, it goes along for the ride.

Marketing hype on full display.
Again, I’ve personally spent time testing on Trackman with the UST VTS line. You can/could get the same weight/flex shaft in different torque values. They produced different ball flights and distances for me and my swing with similar looking swings on video. Just because you haven’t tested it doesn’t make it untrue.
 

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