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Woodworking / Furniture Building

Probably in these 52 pages - so apologies if already discussed.

Can someone suggest the best equipment and video to refinishing a kitchen table.

I have a really nice table and just have no desire to try and find something new...especially since mine is solid wood. Refinishers are asking a crazy price.

thanks
 
lockstockrye said:
Probably in these 52 pages - so apologies if already discussed.

Can someone suggest the best equipment and video to refinishing a kitchen table.

I have a really nice table and just have no desire to try and find something new...especially since mine is solid wood. Refinishers are asking a crazy price.

thanks
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Are you stripping to bare wood, repairing damage, etc., or just looking to freshen up an existing finish that has some rough spots?
 
Going to get back into woodworking and doing small projects this winter - finally got around a thorough cleaning/tossing out of my shop area of my garage and now I have plenty of room again! I don't do anything fancy just basic stuff that looks good stained and sealed!
 
JohnSinVA said:
Are you stripping to bare wood, repairing damage, etc., or just looking to freshen up an existing finish that has some rough spots?
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LOL!!! Thanks @JohnSinVA --- precisely why I need expert advice. I have no clue.

So there is no "damage", in the sense no gouges, cuts, etc. The "damage" I would say is that the finish is gone in many places from sliding, sitting, etc. And I would call it more than some spots. It is a lot. So I am thinking it needs to be a stripping to bare wood. The top - not sure I want to strip every leg, nook and cranny. I will post a picture when I get a break.
 
lockstockrye said:
LOL!!! Thanks @JohnSinVA --- precisely why I need expert advice. I have no clue.

So there is no "damage", in the sense no gouges, cuts, etc. The "damage" I would say is that the finish is gone in many places from sliding, sitting, etc. And I would call it more than some spots. It is a lot. So I am thinking it needs to be a stripping to bare wood. The top - not sure I want to strip every leg, nook and cranny. I will post a picture when I get a break.
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My uncle used to have a furniture refinishing business. He had tanks to be able to dunk whole parts when needed.

Take a look at the table and you will see where it comes apart and from there, you can generally just refinish what is needed, the high wear areas. Go get some good stripper and take your time doing it, then sand properly (multiple grit levels), clean the surfaces very well and re-apply a good finish.

I have been very happy with Deft lacquer in rattle cans with jobs I have done, since I never bought a sprayer like what my mom has.
 
latest Cutting board / Charcuterie Board. Walnut and BirdsEye Maple.

thumbnail_IMG_2574.jpgthumbnail_IMG_2573.jpg
 
CorvetteGuy said:
latest Cutting board / Charcuterie Board. Walnut and BirdsEye Maple.

View attachment 9236903View attachment 9236904
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Is it reversable?

Just an opinion as a chefish person - on your next project add in the grooves, trench, etc...whatever you craftsmen would call it; to catch liquids. They are a very underrated feature that people don't think about until you don't have them.

You can try one out and I'll buy it and you can solicit me as the official tester.

But to the main point - that is beautimous! Many claps!
Well Done Reaction GIF
 
lockstockrye said:
Is it reversable?

Just an opinion as a chefish person - on your next project add in the grooves, trench, etc...whatever you craftsmen would call it; to catch liquids. They are a very underrated feature that people don't think about until you don't have them.

You can try one out and I'll buy it and you can solicit me as the official tester.

But to the main point - that is beautimous! Many claps!
Well Done Reaction GIF
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Thanks...Yes bottom can work as a dual cutting board - as all my boards - both sides are equal. I put a liquid groove in one I did - and that is all I need the rest are for display on the kitchen wall..

thumbnail_IMG_1677.jpgthumbnail_IMG_2199.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1251.jpg
 
lockstockrye said:
I couldn't glue 2 toothpicks together with a full bottle of glue and 50 toothpicks!!
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ok step at a time - just take one toothpick and put a little glue on the tip.. - continue this step for 20 toothpicks in a row without an error ... then we will try two toothpicks.
 
JohnSinVA said:
I dunno, I could buy a lot of furniture with what I have tied up in my shop.
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Ok - I would assume you could use your shop to glue two toothpicks together - unlike the guy above. :ROFLMAO:
 
Has anyone been following along with the SawStop '840 patent being announced that it would be available for public use? Just stumbled across it this morning after a couple videos on YouTube talking about it.

“We work to protect and inspire all woodworkers, from novice hobbyists to professional craftspeople.
Opponents of the proposed rulemaking have identified this patent as their key obstacle to offering safer saws,” said Matt Howard, CEO, SawStop. “We invest heavily in safety innovation, and our patents have real value. Even so, we will not allow this patent to be an obstacle to a safer future. To that end, SawStop is prepared to dedicate this ‘840 patent to the public upon the effective date of a rule requiring active injury mitigation technology on all table saws. Although such a rule is likely many years away from an effective date, we at SawStop are determined to seek a win-win balance between our mission and our business responsibilities.”

Awesome for saw safety, just maybe not amazing for the hobbyist woodworker on a cost standpoint.
 
Sawstop originally wanted to license the patent a long time ago and nobody wanted it, which is why they built their own saw.

We actually discussed this in my MBA ethics class back in 2009 and it was an interesting discussion. Once it becomes public domain and if manufacturers don’t start implementing it or another similar system, it will eventually be mandated.
 
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