Woodworking / Furniture Building

Yep. HEPA-certified filter media - 99.97% efficiency at 0.3 microns.

It just looks like the perfect solution for the small shop that only will use 1 tool at a time. But still (outside of cost), what is the catch? I know it's extremely noisy but with it being in another room and floor, that is not a major issue.
Dust collection in general is noisy. If you can site it in your garage somewhere that you can enclose it that will help a lot with the noise abatement.
 
On another note - this is the best $109 I've spent in a long time -- https://www.lowes.com/pd/Werner-Aluminum-Work-Platform-225lb-Load-Capacity/1002981294

If you don't have one, get one. I know it's just a work platform. But of all the platforms, ladders, scaffolding, planks that I've owned, this this it the best engineered and most convenient one I've ever used!!!!
Haha I bought this when I started doing my drywall for my ceiling. It was a total game changer! I was ready to call someone after one day of drywall without it. Then I went and picked it up and it made the ceiling drywall so much easier!
 
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I'm in.... my last larger build i completed last month (Jan 2021) was my new workbench. My last one was a double MDF top.
 
These arrow of light scout awards are now complete.
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Now it’s time for the pinewood derby trophies. I have this 6/4 cherry thst I picked up yesterday.
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Pretty nice drawers you got there. I’m also a leg (vise) man myself:
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My first leg vise and i live it, im sure you will too.

As far as my drawers, lol, whel thats my design flaw. Hardwood dovetail with ball bearing slides....whoops, didnt realize it until it was too late in the build, and my attitude was to just get it done!
 
My first leg vise and i live it, im sure you will too.

As far as my drawers, lol, whel thats my design flaw. Hardwood dovetail with ball bearing slides....whoops, didnt realize it until it was too late in the build, and my attitude was to just get it done!
Plenty of workshops are outfitted with such learning opportunities. Think nothing of it.
 
The supercell dust collector is ordered. However, it will probably be early April before arriving.
 
I will never sand drywall mud again without wearing a dust mask. I’m pulling mud boogers out of my nose all night. But on a positive not the shop looks dang good. One more light coat of mud and it’s ready for priming and paining.
 
👆🏻 That’s where I stand.
Drywalling is one of those things I always say I am never going to do again and yet for the last 20 years every time I need to do drywall I end up doing it.
 
Big fan of Norfab QC ducting. It’s like adult legos. I like being able to try different combos to figure out how I like it.
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Drywalling is one of those things I always say I am never going to do again and yet for the last 20 years every time I need to do drywall I end up doing it.
I just finished up a family room in an unfinished basement. I hung the drywall and having never mud or taped drywall I said "oh I can do it" as time went on I ended up paying someone to do the mud and tape and watching him do it, it was the best money I ever spent!
 
Need to know if there is a fix around this? I have finished up the poplar railing and my wife, who is still undecided on stain color or paint color mentioned something to me. She noticed when I had her stain a plywood board, where I left some residue wood glue it didn't stain at all and it is a major eyesore. Now, I have some residue glue on my handrail and I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to make sure that this glue is either removed so that it does stain? Is the only option really just sanding it down? I would hate to do that as I'm afraid it will ruin my round over edge and my router now will not get into the corners. There are also places where sanding isn't the best option. Honestly my wife has ruled out staining the wood because of the residue glue and she wants black paint. I hate painting and I love wood grain so I would prefer to do stain but she has a point.

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Need to know if there is a fix around this? I have finished up the poplar railing and my wife, who is still undecided on stain color or paint color mentioned something to me. She noticed when I had her stain a plywood board, where I left some residue wood glue it didn't stain at all and it is a major eyesore. Now, I have some residue glue on my handrail and I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to make sure that this glue is either removed so that it does stain? Is the only option really just sanding it down? I would hate to do that as I'm afraid it will ruin my round over edge and my router now will not get into the corners. There are also places where sanding isn't the best option. Honestly my wife has ruled out staining the wood because of the residue glue and she wants black paint. I hate painting and I love wood grain so I would prefer to do stain but she has a point.

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If you’ve got a card scraper you can use that to remove the residual glue. Make sure you get it all by testing with mineral spirits to see if it colors evenly. Once you have that done sand everything again lightly with the highest grit you used.

The beauty of painting is you can use filler for any gaps in your joints, plus you know she’ll be happy which is always a bonus no matter how you slice it.
 
If you’ve got a card scraper you can use that to remove the residual glue. Make sure you get it all by testing with mineral spirits to see if it colors evenly. Once you have that done sand everything again lightly with the highest grit you used.

The beauty of painting is you can use filler for any gaps in your joints, plus you know she’ll be happy which is always a bonus no matter how you slice it.

Agree with this. Card scraper and sanding. Honestly, I wouldn’t worry too much about slightly distorting the round over. It won’t be very noticeable in that corner if the profile only changes a little bit. Working with only hand tools has taught me that slight imperfections like that are much less noticeable than our “machine perfect” focused brains think they are.

You definitely want to get as much of that glue off as possible. The glue will have penetrated into the pores somewhat though. If you scrape/sand it down, but still end up with a lighter spot there after staining, you can try spot staining more coats on just the light areas with a cotton swab. As long as those areas are accepting some stain, you should be able to eventually get a decent color match with some patience.

I would definitely try to fix it and stain first. Paint can always cover the stain if it doesn’t work out.
 
There could be a compromise for the both of you... you can get your wood grain and your wife can get her paint...

Use a milk paint... or some paint that's been diluted... put it on, then almost immediately wipe it off. There will be "some" color on the wood but it won't be 100% total coverage like you'd get with a coat of paint and the wood grain would still show through.
 
I just finished up a family room in an unfinished basement. I hung the drywall and having never mud or taped drywall I said "oh I can do it" as time went on I ended up paying someone to do the mud and tape and watching him do it, it was the best money I ever spent!
Drywall, mudding and taping sucks. You are smart.
 
Any product suggestions on getting down to bare wood of a stained table?
 
Been busy the last two weeks working on this. Still some touch up, another coat or two of paint & lights under each shelf.
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