On of the biggest contributors to distance is accuracy, that is, hitting the middle of the club face. Nearly any shot shape can be accounted for if you're finding the middle of the club face every time.
Distance or accuracy?
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- #27
Alez go try the M1 with a different shaft. I've been thinking about this a lot because it was so bizarre to me. Fuji pro and M1 Over 2-3 dozen shots not one had a ball speed over 126, which is terribly inefficient for me. I tried a bunch of other combos M1(kuro kage), M1(D+), 816 alpha(rogue silver), 915 D4(rogue silver), and vapor flex(D+) and with all of those I was seeing ball speeds in the high 140s-low 150s.
I really can't explain what it was, but I just couldn't hit that pairing. At first I thought the monitor was broken but other combos gave me regular numbers.
I really can't explain what it was, but I just couldn't hit that pairing. At first I thought the monitor was broken but other combos gave me regular numbers.
Golf 'N Gator
Formally HoosierGolfer
So true. Bottom line is that if I have to give up a few yards for the sake of accuracy, I will. It is nice to have both, and many players do and my current clubs have given me some added distance without any real lose of accuracy, so I'm happy, but the OEM's still have everyone chasing distance with today's marketing, while many should be more worried about accuracy.
Den60
New member
I find it easier to play in the short stuff.
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- #31
If you are picking up 15 mph of ball speed with different swings, it's not because of the shaft, it's because of the swing and contact.
What you are speaking about is smash factor (the efficiency part) and seeing a difference like that because of a shaft change should be showing more that each of your swings is repeatable different.
And for the sake of the debate, let's say the shaft would cure this smash factor dilemma, in doing so it would take the longer driver and make it straighter. Now I do not think either is really the case to the extent some are seeing, but to use the description used, it would work both ways.
Hope this helps.
It isn't inconsistency looking at that face.... looks pretty good to me.
I would say you're at the opposite ends of the spectrum with these two clubs.... obviously not every shaft with every head will play the same....
Wish there was an easy answer but we wouldn't be typing away if there was... bottom line to your answer....
FAIRWAY all day long with a longer club unless I am playing just stupid long courses and am probably playing off the wrong tees then....
-David
I would say you're at the opposite ends of the spectrum with these two clubs.... obviously not every shaft with every head will play the same....
Wish there was an easy answer but we wouldn't be typing away if there was... bottom line to your answer....
FAIRWAY all day long with a longer club unless I am playing just stupid long courses and am probably playing off the wrong tees then....
-David
I know it isn't the shaft itself, but how I swung it. I couldn't find the center of the face at all. Launch was all over the place with that combo. I just couldn't control that pairing. Maybe with more time I'd adjust my swing.
I'd expect a robot test to show little difference, but for me it was huge. I get lots more distance from shorter and heavier shafts because I swing them better.
The club he is hitting further has a different type of shaft, I was suggesting he try the same type of shaft in the club he isn't hitting as far. It made a big difference for me, it may or may not for him, but it is worth trying.
- Thread starter
- #35
I was just texting a buddy about this. His recommendation was to find the 70g shaft I've been using in the M1 and try it in softer flex in XR
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Mach2
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With both drivers, and 20 yards difference, I'll take accuracy.
If you hit both drivers with a push and the shorter driver ball is on the very right side of the fairway in the short grass, that means the longer driver ball is at least 10 yards into the right rough. You have an unhindered second shot with the shorter driven ball, and may at best have to hit out to the fairway for a second shot with the longer ball.
Accuracy.
If you hit both drivers with a push and the shorter driver ball is on the very right side of the fairway in the short grass, that means the longer driver ball is at least 10 yards into the right rough. You have an unhindered second shot with the shorter driven ball, and may at best have to hit out to the fairway for a second shot with the longer ball.
Accuracy.
In this day and age with so many great options out there I would hesitate to willfully give up either distance or accuracy.
There is a club/combo out there that will give you both - you just need to find it.
There is a club/combo out there that will give you both - you just need to find it.
nwgolfr
New member
I agree completely. I'm using a driver that I know is too long for me, but choking down and smoothing out my transition has helped my drives fly straighter, and 15-25 yards further. I just take a stronger grip to avoid my dreaded fade/slice
theoverswinger
New member
There might be an explanation for the inaccuracy.
From what I know, golf shafts have a natural axis of vibration where the motion of the waggle is just back and forth. When a shaft behaves this way, in my place, we call it "pured". If it isn't pured, when pulled back, the shaft vibrates in a circular motion rather than a back and forth motion. You can imagine, as you swing the club, if it vibrates in a circular motion, how this will impact accuracy.
The fitter mounts the grip of the club on a tabletop vice grip, with the clubface facing forward. As he pulls back the clubhead a bit and lets go, the shaft vibrates. If it goes back and forth, it's pured, if it's a circular motion, it isn't.
This can be more complicated with an adjustable club. For example, I got an old 910D2 that I wanted the shaft replaced. The fitter first made the setting to B2 per my specs, then fitted the adapter to a pured shaft, and then added the clubhead. You can imagine that if I changed the setting and twisted the shaft, it will lose its pured axis.
From what I know, golf shafts have a natural axis of vibration where the motion of the waggle is just back and forth. When a shaft behaves this way, in my place, we call it "pured". If it isn't pured, when pulled back, the shaft vibrates in a circular motion rather than a back and forth motion. You can imagine, as you swing the club, if it vibrates in a circular motion, how this will impact accuracy.
The fitter mounts the grip of the club on a tabletop vice grip, with the clubface facing forward. As he pulls back the clubhead a bit and lets go, the shaft vibrates. If it goes back and forth, it's pured, if it's a circular motion, it isn't.
This can be more complicated with an adjustable club. For example, I got an old 910D2 that I wanted the shaft replaced. The fitter first made the setting to B2 per my specs, then fitted the adapter to a pured shaft, and then added the clubhead. You can imagine that if I changed the setting and twisted the shaft, it will lose its pured axis.
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- #40
Years ago that was very necessary.
In today's day and age, with the progress and technical advances of materials and process, I have yet to speak to a single shaft expert that deems it necessary even at the highest level.
In today's day and age, with the progress and technical advances of materials and process, I have yet to speak to a single shaft expert that deems it necessary even at the highest level.
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I would go for the distance and work on the accuracy.
UVaWahoo
New member
Unfortunately, I don't have a choice. My lack of distance requires that I be as accurate as possible. Getting old has some benefits, it's the excuse I'm sticking with and I get to use the Senior tees. I must also have faith that the old saying "drive for show, but putt for dough" is, in fact, reality.
BlueScot
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I would ask which driver produces the lowest scores for you on the courses you play? On the other hand you may want to play the driver that is the most enjoyable for you.
I would tend toward distance first. It might be easier to hit the green with a 9 iron from the rough rather than a 5 iron from the fairway, hoping the distance difference between these two drivers is that much. The more you play the bomber I would think that more accurate it would become.
I would tend toward distance first. It might be easier to hit the green with a 9 iron from the rough rather than a 5 iron from the fairway, hoping the distance difference between these two drivers is that much. The more you play the bomber I would think that more accurate it would become.
jmaier
New member
^^This. My best friend and I play most rounds together. I half-wedge/chip a bit better than he does. His mid-irons and full wedges are better. Putting is a push. But off the tee, he hits 3-4h most of the time -- chokes on his driver. I'm in the fairway just as often and am any where from 25-70 yards in front. He has yet to be within 6 strokes of me over 18 holes in 100+ rounds. Find a club you can hit long and grove your swing.
I experimented with 3w and mini off the tee but they weren't noticeably more accurate than my driver. Get your swing on plane and let 'er rip.
-J
Wakit300
Active member
This exactly
Cdpkook132
Active member
You can't really control distance in my opinion. Your going to hit it as long as you can. Accuracy is something you can control and will go a lot longer in lowering your score then distances
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I had a similar situation, but not to the extent of 20 yards. My Ping g30 with stock stiff isn't as long as my cobra flyz+ with Tour AD was on my best swings. My miss with the g30 is a fade into the light rough that is easily playable. My miss with the flyz was a slice into the next fairway. The ping was an easy winner for me and I'm loving hitting more fairways.
SaffaClint
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This old chestnut ay? It's always a fairly even split, some want distance, others want accuracy, others want a bit of both.
ProZoneGolf
Clubmaker/Fitter
The shafts are quite different. The Fuji Pro is X flex, and the D+ is stiff, Perhaps your not loading the X fflex as much. Also you have added hotmelt to the XR adding head weight further enhancing distance with head weight, and also making the stiff shaft kick more. Weigh the heads, match the M1 head weight with hotmelt/lead tape and install the D+ shaft in the M1, or just get another D+ shaft /tip easier. Try to match length & SW as close as you can.
XR is a cup face, it may be hotter by design...Most Fuji's are tight dispersion so also consider a stiff flex like Pro 70s, 7.1s, Fuel 70s TS, 661 Evo stiff.