Off-set and adjustable drivers

luvagoodshot

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Can a person use an off-set driver to help eliminate his slice?
Secondly, if a person sets their adjustable driver to the draw position will that help him/her to eliminate slices?
 
Can a person use an off-set driver to help eliminate his slice?
Secondly, if a person sets their adjustable driver to the draw position will that help him/her to eliminate slices?
My father in law only plays offset drivers and he's eliminated the right side of the field with his in to out path.
 
I have my driver set to "double draw" (hosel and weights) and it helps a lot. Nothing is perfect, but it's a lot better.
 
I’ve had offset fixed hosel drivers as well as adjustable drivers with a draw setting.

If you are over the top, you can still slice the ball off the face of the planet.

If your swing is decent but you tend to leave the face open, draw settings can definitely help.


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No driver will fix a slice. Those technologies can start the ball left of the target line, which can help the golfer keep the ball in play.

Of the two, the offset models are more successful at doing that because they are often 3-7 degrees closed at the face angle, and are a bit more up right in the lie angle. That makes it more left side biased than any "closed" position/draw weight.

The bad thing about those is that they increase launch angle and spin more. I think they have vanity lofting (i.e. a 9 is really an 11) which makes it worse. The golf companies seem to think that anyone who wants to go left also needs more launch and more spin. I don't think that is the case.

My ideal driver would meld the closed face of the offset models with a low spin, heel weighted profile with about a 9 degree head. I'd be fine with looking at offset to get it. No one makes that though.
 
Can a person use an off-set driver to help eliminate his slice?
Secondly, if a person sets their adjustable driver to the draw position will that help him/her to eliminate slices?

No club will "eliminate" a slice. You can, at best, negate a few yards of movement by moving the weight heel or toe side. The purpose of "offset" is to move the CG further back to increase launch angle, that doesn't negate slice either.

Setting the driver to a "draw" position will only close the face angle of the club. That also won't fix the problem if the person swinging the club delivers an open face to path.

If a slice could be fixed by a club, nobody would be slicing the ball anymore.
 
It wont offset a bad swing, but they can encourage the club face to be more square at impact.
 
The answer has been covered very well already. I'll only add that years ago I turned my slice into a helacious hook in one off-season. Accomplished this simply by swinging an old, weighted Momentus-like training club everyday for a few minutes.

I never did hit the range so I had no idea about any progress, change, whatever.

Never aiming for swapping flaws of course but I previously thought that I'd prefer the hook to the slice. Definitely a case of 'be careful what you wish for,' took a looong while to straighten out that mess.
 
For several years I had my Callaway Xtreme Razr Fit driver set to a closed face, and with a 15 gram weight in the heel, to counter my slice ... with limited success. A few weeks ago, I belatedly had some lessons and, after the very first one, I set the driver to standard and have been driving straight ever since. My advice is to solve your slice by having a pro sort out your swing.
 
The answer to the whole field of questioning "will this club fix my hook/slice?" is always go see an instructor....
 
No club will "eliminate" a slice. You can, at best, negate a few yards of movement by moving the weight heel or toe side. The purpose of "offset" is to move the CG further back to increase launch angle, that doesn't negate slice either.

Setting the driver to a "draw" position will only close the face angle of the club. That also won't fix the problem if the person swinging the club delivers an open face to path.

If a slice could be fixed by a club, nobody would be slicing the ball anymore.

The draw setting on Callaway on the adapter changes the lie angle upright which makes it go more left I believe.


As for the answer to op depends on how you are slicing. If you just aren't squaring the face to the but not way over the top then sure it will help. Now if you are super over the top with the slice that starts left then goes right then you will most likely turn that slice to a snap hook or pull by closing it a bunch.
 
I prefer to sort things out without bias. Any compensating design elements are going to, eventually, become problematic if you are diligent enough to make progress with your swing. To hit a straight ball, with a draw biased club, requires that the club face be slightly open...the very thing you have been knocking your brains out trying to get rid of.
 
To hit a straight ball your path and face angle need to be the same. There is also nothing wrong with having a driver with bias, or having the face more closed or open if your swing is consistent. Fit the driver to the swing to get optimal launch conditions with a shot shape you want.
 
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