Car Detailing Thread

Put the boat away for the winter. Used some Optimum No Rinse and then some Boat Bling Hot Sauce just to make sure the water spots were gone before putting her to bed.

ONR is just so good. I have a friend that sweares by the Boat Bling Hot Sauce on his boat. Uses it 4 times a year.
 
ONR is just so good. I have a friend that sweares by the Boat Bling Hot Sauce on his boat. Uses it 4 times a year.

It makes it so easy to wash it in the garage. Especially when it is cold up here. Really no excuse to wash your vehicle when it is that easy.
 
It makes it so easy to wash it in the garage. Especially when it is cold up here. Really no excuse to wash your vehicle when it is that easy.

Darn right. I did the MKZ yesterday in about 15 minutes. Then put a sealant on it and should be good to go. But ONR is the star here.
 
I stepped out of full corrections years ago, now I mostly dabble in time to time touch ups and maintaining swirl free paint before cars go up for sale. ONR is a lifesaver on cars the just you just can't really get wet.


Untitled by Erik, on Flickr
 
I think you make some good points here and it seems like you deal with mostly volume operations. These people are in the business of making money not perfecting cars. A good detailer is in a different league than one of these places.

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Although most of my customers are production body shops, I have 40 or so custom restoration shops that are in my territory. Most of them won't paint a car for less than $20,000. Body labor is extra which means their average job is $35,000-$70,000. I have 5 or 6 custom shops that I call on whose average restoration is over $100,000. I also have plenty of specialty body shops where 90% of their business is high end imports. They are in business because they specialize in pleasing customers that demand that their super cars look better than they did pre-accident. Last week one of my customers had 5 Porsches, 2 Maserati's, a Ferrari, and a McClaren in his shop being repaired. They use the exact same paint finishing products as the production shops, they just add a few sanding and buffing steps to ensure a perfect paint finish.

Here's a recent restoration from one of my largest customers. One of the fun parts of my job is seeing cars like this almost every week in various stages of repair. These custom shops have a passion for car restoration and will go to amazing lengths to make the car and paint look perfect. The paint finishing is the easy part after they have hundreds of hours of labor into the frame, engine, and body.

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What a great thread! I just bought a 2013 Mustang Convertible this last week and I think I am going to have to take it in to a professional detailer. The day I purchased it it had been raining so I didn't get a great idea of what the paint looked like. Well, I learned my lesson. I brought it home, washed it up and low and behold there were terrible water spots etched in to the paint. I did my best to work them out: started with Meguiar's clay bar, followed with a round of Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 and ended with Meguiar's NXT wax. It does look better and the spots are less noticeable, but they are definitely still there. I'm going to have to find a good detailer in my area to see if they can get these out. I am pretty meticulous with my vehicles and this is driving me nuts!
 
Going to need something powered to take those out. Be it a rotary or random orbital. If you do not know how to use one, definitely take it to a professional.
 
Like JB said, I would take it to a competent detailer to machine polish/buff the water spots off and properly protect the paint from further issues.
I actually have been so lax this year with protecting my personal vehicles, before the winter hits I have to re-buff my S2000 and seal it with my 22ple products. Also my Fusion needs some winter protection love before the snow flies!
 
I detail my SS every 4-5 days. And every 4th wash I apply paint sealant. Spray paint won't even stick to my paint. It's awesome stuff. Plus bugs just spray off with a hose.

Paint sealant stops water spots. Just wash car and chamois dry. Works perfect.
 
What a great thread! I just bought a 2013 Mustang Convertible this last week and I think I am going to have to take it in to a professional detailer. The day I purchased it it had been raining so I didn't get a great idea of what the paint looked like. Well, I learned my lesson. I brought it home, washed it up and low and behold there were terrible water spots etched in to the paint. I did my best to work them out: started with Meguiar's clay bar, followed with a round of Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 and ended with Meguiar's NXT wax. It does look better and the spots are less noticeable, but they are definitely still there. I'm going to have to find a good detailer in my area to see if they can get these out. I am pretty meticulous with my vehicles and this is driving me nuts!

Many water spots can be taken out with a acid based wheel cleaner but you have to be super careful to mask off all the glass on the vehicle because any acid hitting the glass will etch the glass. Water spots that are really etched into the paint will come out quickly with a 2000 or 3000 grit sanding disc on a 3/16" or 5/16" DA sander. My preferred method is a 3000 grit disc followed by a 5000 grit disc and 2 polishing steps. As others have said, etched water spots are best left to a professional.

If anyone is interested in how a professional would use 5000 grit in the paint finishing process, here's a couple of videos.





 
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Going to need something powered to take those out. Be it a rotary or random orbital. If you do not know how to use one, definitely take it to a professional.

for someone that doesn't know what they are doing, you can burn through the paint pretty quickly. So, get help if needed. Paint fixes aren't cheap. Plus they never blend exactly right.
 
Going to need something powered to take those out. Be it a rotary or random orbital. If you do not know how to use one, definitely take it to a professional.

I had actually used a buffer when I was going through the process but I am definitely not a professional. It's definitely going to take someone that is much more skilled than myself to handle this project. Now I just have to figure out who is good in town. I appreciate the responses everyone!
 
I had actually used a buffer when I was going through the process but I am definitely not a professional. It's definitely going to take someone that is much more skilled than myself to handle this project. Now I just have to figure out who is good in town. I appreciate the responses everyone!

And depending on power it might not have been enough. Then add that for strong spots you will need a cutting type material like a compound rather than just a chemical cleaner like what you were using.

Pro will get it fixed in no time.
 
I had actually used a buffer when I was going through the process but I am definitely not a professional. It's definitely going to take someone that is much more skilled than myself to handle this project. Now I just have to figure out who is good in town. I appreciate the responses everyone!

I would ask around for a recommended detailer in your area or check Yelp or Angie's list - at least that might filter out the bad detailers. Many body shops would be willing to do water spot removal but most will charge $350-$500 to do an entire car.
 
I just picked up a Meguiar's Heavy Duty Headlight repair kit, time to buff out those lenses. Got me thinking about a similar repair method for my windshields. With the road salt and sand in my region, it doesn't take long for a windshield to get pitted. I see that such repair kits exist, anyone here try one?
 
I just picked up a Meguiar's Heavy Duty Headlight repair kit, time to buff out those lenses. Got me thinking about a similar repair method for my windshields. With the road salt and sand in my region, it doesn't take long for a windshield to get pitted. I see that such repair kits exist, anyone here try one?

Plastic headlights are worlds different than a glass windshield. You can't really wet sand or remove a layer from glass like you can plastic or paint.
I would be pretty weary about those windshield repair kits. Also when you use any type of headlight repair kit, make sure it comes with some type of sealant or coating. Without that, your headlights will just fog back up and turn yellow in no time.
 
Plastic headlights are worlds different than a glass windshield. You can't really wet sand or remove a layer from glass like you can plastic or paint.
I would be pretty weary about those windshield repair kits. Also when you use any type of headlight repair kit, make sure it comes with some type of sealant or coating. Without that, your headlights will just fog back up and turn yellow in no time.
I forget which one I used, but I've used it twice and both times the headlights have gone back to being fogged. It came with a sealer but it didn't seem to matter.

When I worked for Saturn, I'd wash and quick wax my car at least once a week. Might as well take advantage of what available to you. One of the nice perks when I worked there.

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Plastic headlights are worlds different than a glass windshield. You can't really wet sand or remove a layer from glass like you can plastic or paint.
I would be pretty weary about those windshield repair kits. Also when you use any type of headlight repair kit, make sure it comes with some type of sealant or coating. Without that, your headlights will just fog back up and turn yellow in no time.

Yup, thanks! I got the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kit which comes with a UV protective sealant.
 
I would disagree about burning through paint easily, if you purchase a DA polisher you can stand on those things and they wont burn through paint, you would really have to do something awful to do it. Rotary polishers are most likely to do it but with proper practice they aren't dangerous. I use one most of the time to be honest, I love it. Only drawback is really some holograms you can leave behind. For most DIY guys a dual action such as a porter cable or rupes (pricey) are fine.
 
Plastic headlights are worlds different than a glass windshield. You can't really wet sand or remove a layer from glass like you can plastic or paint.
I would be pretty weary about those windshield repair kits. Also when you use any type of headlight repair kit, make sure it comes with some type of sealant or coating. Without that, your headlights will just fog back up and turn yellow in no time.

Windshields are pretty simple to polish as well. A rayon buffer pad and ceriglass polish will take wiper grooves out in a few minutes with the proper technique.
 
I will be detailing my car tomorrow using the 21ES. I can't wait!!! I will let you know how I like it.
 
Any Other Car Detailing Fanatics?

You won't burn through the paint with a dual action polisher unless you are a complete plank, and even then it will be severely difficult. My last car in the UK was covered in swirl marks when I bought it, made worse the fact it's black. A bit of research and elbow grease later and the car looked like it had just left the showroom. It was 2 days of hard work, but boy was it satisfying knowing I had done it myself. There's a lot of mystique and bs around detailing cars, but it really is fairly straightforward. Then again, if you don't have the time to commit to it, then take it to a pro.
Just to pick up on a previous comment, I personally would never use an acid based product, even on my wheels. There are plenty of non acid based products out there that will do a great job.
 
I put about 4 hours into my car this weekend with a pre-winter wax of Mother's Ultimate Wax. I didn't prep the paint but damn, it came out sweet. 2006 Acura TL in Antracite Gray with 140K miles on it. I've done some research and will be claying and full paint-prep in the spring. Trying to decide on a good foam-canon and I also picked up a Porter Cable 7424XP DA with my wife's work discount for around $50 vs $130 MSRP will get some appropriate pads for and will be ready to go.

Back in the day when I participated in car audio shows, I'd spend days getting the car ready including using Zymol polish. For kicks I just went to their web site...what a bunch of pompous arrogant asses. http://www.zymol.com/royale.aspx
 
I put about 4 hours into my car this weekend with a pre-winter wax of Mother's Ultimate Wax. I didn't prep the paint but damn, it came out sweet. 2006 Acura TL in Antracite Gray with 140K miles on it. I've done some research and will be claying and full paint-prep in the spring. Trying to decide on a good foam-canon and I also picked up a Porter Cable 7424XP DA with my wife's work discount for around $50 vs $130 MSRP will get some appropriate pads for and will be ready to go.

Back in the day when I participated in car audio shows, I'd spend days getting the car ready including using Zymol polish. For kicks I just went to their web site...what a bunch of pompous arrogant asses. http://www.zymol.com/royale.aspx
TBH foam cannons are kind of a waste of time/$$$ unless your detailing very dirty cars on the regular. The only ones I have seen that were worth the cash is the foam lance paired with a pressure washer.
Also if your doing winter prep, I would advise using a good sealant vs. just wax. Wax is not nearly as durable as sealant, especially in the winter months. Then you can apply wax over the sealant, just not the other way around.
Here are some pictures of my summer ride after an end of the season paint correction:
Did the whole car with Menzerna PF2500 and light cutting orange pads. Then sealed it with a semi-permanent product by Gtechniq called Liquid Crystal.

In Progress
MeFekArl.jpg


Done
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That S2K doesn't suck. Thanks for the info on the foam canon. I do have a pressure washer but might just go with the foamer thing you can put on a hose for $50. I will admit that I've gotten a bit OCD with the videos of this stuff I've seen on YouTube...

So, since I just waxed, would I have to strip the wax to get the sealant down properly or can I go over the new wax?

Thanks Man!
 
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