Cutting down shaft length on driver

Sorry for the thread bump. I am cutting my driver and woods about one inch. Is there any other way to add swingweight back besides putting leadtape on the head? Tape just doesnt seem to work on the sole of woods or am I off on this?

If you have a club builder around, they would likely be able to hot melt the head to add some weight internally rather than with lead tape.
 
Sorry for the thread bump. I am cutting my driver and woods about one inch. Is there any other way to add swingweight back besides putting leadtape on the head? Tape just doesnt seem to work on the sole of woods or am I off on this?

Some drivers, woods and hybrids like the Ping G30 and new G have weight plugs that are removable. I think Billy Bobs sells heavier weights.
If not eBay.
 
Some fitters, like Club Champion, use tungsten powder poured down the shaft that is packed and held in place with a cork. They sell the stuff at Golf Works and other club builder websites.
 
Some fitters, like Club Champion, use tungsten powder poured down the shaft that is packed and held in place with a cork. They sell the stuff at Golf Works and other club builder websites.

You don't want to do this with a graphite shaft. The inner diameter is very small so your weight will ride up well above the hosel, and you cannot get a cork down into the narrow neck without damaging the shaft.

The result is likely a shaft snapping at the cork in the near future.
 
I cut my driver shafts down about 1 1/2"(44" playing length.) I changed the sole weight and added 3g to offset the difference in weight. But honestly, I couldn't feel the difference with or without the weight change. You should be fine with an inch.
 
One thing to consider when adding weight to the head is it will make the shaft play weaker. Unless you pull the shaft and tip it accordingly to how much weight you add.
 
I have trimmed my last three drivers to 45". Works great for me and never had to add weight, probably because I have the swing speed of an 80 year old!
 
I've had two drivers cut to 44" and hot melt to set the swingweight to D2. I did this to two Nike drivers and I had a left over HL head that I did not all weight to. I think the tech I used (ex Adams Champions Tour tech/PGA professional) told me that after the cut, the swingweight was C10.

On a lark, I tried the HL driver the other day and I will say that it was real easy to accelerate. If you cut, one idea might be to try the club at a lower swingweight for a bit, use some lead to play with the weight to see where you'd like it and then get the hot melt when you lock it down.
 
You don't want to do this with a graphite shaft. The inner diameter is very small so your weight will ride up well above the hosel, and you cannot get a cork down into the narrow neck without damaging the shaft.

The result is likely a shaft snapping at the cork in the near future.

I've read that before (mostly in posts on forums), but that's standard practice for Club Champion. I've also never seen/heard of one that actually snapped either. My last iron set with UST Recoil 125 F4 shafts were swing weighted by Club Champion using the tungsten powder and they are going on 6+ months of use without issue (a friend is playing them currently). I don't have a steep swing though, so that may have helped minimize wear on the shaft tip.
 
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I went the other way and I am playing a 47" driver. Just taking a shaft and just not cutting it down any.

Right now I am playing a Black Tie Regular flex with a Big Bertha head and I am hitting farther than ever. Misses are no worse than when I used a normal length. I'm not ever going to be a 300 yard bomber but I think I have gained 20 yards easy on my good hits. I just need to work on getting more of those.
 
Thinking about shortening my driver by an inch
 
Thinking about shortening my driver by an inch

You'll likely hit it more consistently and straighter...

Go for it.

Don't fuss around with swingweight or anything else until after you've shortened it and played it. Just remove the grip, cut off an inch and regrip.

If after you've spent some time with it if you think it feels too stiff or you want a heavier head feel, then add weight with lead tape on the sole or heel.
 
Thinking about shortening my driver by an inch

I did this about a month ago, was the best driver change I made in a long time...
 
Did this to my driver yesterday. Only took 1/2" off but though I'd rather start there than do more! I will report after my range session tonight.
 
Thinking about shortening my driver by an inch

I have been thinking about this exact same thing. Ever since finding out my driver is playing at 46" a few weeks ago its in my head. I might just have to do it.
 
I have been thinking about this exact same thing. Ever since finding out my driver is playing at 46" a few weeks ago its in my head. I might just have to do it.

Choke down on it to start, you might try putting a few rubber bands at the length you think you want it to be. Then swing it and see if you like that feel and control better.
 
I cut all mine down to 44.25 ~ 44.50.
I always drops the SW to C-5~9.
I like D1 or 2.
Always have to add weight in.
Luckily it is easy with a M2, just install RBZ weights.
I poured in some hot melt in my SLDR but it was much more of a chore to do, and more permanent.
 
As of right now I try to play my drivers around 45", which these days means cutting them down at least a half inch. I do have one shaft though that plays around 44.5-44.75 depending on the head use on it though and I don't really feel like I lose much if any distance with it.
 
One thing to consider when adding weight to the head is it will make the shaft play weaker. Unless you pull the shaft and tip it accordingly to how much weight you add.
Cutting the shaft shorter will make the shaft play slight stiffer, adding the weight will offset that some.

However it's important to mention that most shafts will have a preset weight it's intended for, drivers around 205g and 3 woods 215g, this is the reason why 3 wood shafts are tip trimmed driver shafts due to the heavier weight and weaker flex. With the drivers today I believe they don't all weight 205g therefore it's pretty much a result driven exercise at this point. In other words, set it up and play it, if it works then no reason to fuss about the flex or weight or otherwise. With that said I've brought my R15 up to 205g by changing out the weights, the driver was playing at 195g standard. I believe this will offset the playing length I've got around 44.75"

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Just bought a hacksaw just for this purpose... Going to chop my G30 down to 3W length to mess around with. Wish I had a higher loft than 11.5, but it will do for the purposes of my testing.
 
Cutting the shaft shorter will make the shaft play slight stiffer, adding the weight will offset that some.

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I agree with you that they usually stiffen up a little when shortening if you don't add weight to the head. but I've had a club builder also tell me that the butt end is the stiffest part of the shaft and by butt trimming, the shaft with actually cpm weaker after. For what it's worth.
 
As for anyone wanting to try a shorter driver. Go into the store and chuck a 3w shaft in the driver head. Most oems are all adjustable these days.

It will play around 43.5" and should give you an indication of you are prone to swing weight issues. And if you like the shorter length.

Recently I put a stock Alta 3w shaft in a Ping G driver head. It measured C6.5 and I hit it so well I actually built my G with Tour 80 R to play at 43.5". Loving this combo.

Also hit a Great Big Bertha driver well with a stock Kuro Kage 3w shaft. Measured C5 at 43 5/8". Once prices come down I'll probably build one of these too.
 
Cutting down shaft length on driver

I am playing my fly z head in my old 3 wood ltd shaft. 70 gram regular shafted aldilla. It has been super straight and a good option off the tee. Not super long but 200-215 and straight which is what I need.


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yeah but trimming will make it weaker cpm wise, tip will make it stronger cpm wise. Just make sure the tip has a long enough parallel section if you tip trim it.
 
I finally cut my driver shafts down from 45.5" to 44.5" and it has made a world of difference with accuracy with minimal loss in distance! Totally worth it in my opinion but it all depends on how well you can control the face at impact. It comes down to whether or not you can make solid contact with the center of the clubface.
 
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