We've launched the new forums! Read more here

Advise me - Equipment for reshafting irons

Nippon Shafts
GraniteRoost

GraniteRoost

Flying Rocks
Albatross 2023 Club Albatross 2024 Club
Joined
Apr 22, 2016
Messages
11,489
Reaction score
14,500
Location
NH/VT
Handicap
6 Grint
I'd like to rally the collective experience of all of the home club builders here. What equipment (specific favorites) does a person need to successfully pull and replace iron shafts? I have good shop aptitude (hands on mech engineer) so it should be a relative breeze. I like good value for high quality, and may not be able to buy the whole shop all at once, so emphasis on starter kit and items that will last/worth purchasing upfront.

My general areas of interest/recommendations:
- shaft puller / heating method - is a heat gun sufficient? Favorite pullers? Other?
- reaming tool for cleaning up old epoxy
- way to turn ferrules - thinking acquisition of bench belt grinder may be best here?
- swingweighting - appropriate measurement tool seems essential for successful building, am i right?
- preferred swingweight adjustment methods
- epoxy type - does it matter

--> What else?

I've already got re-gripping covered. Trying to figure out the relative investment in decent tools vs. paying the labor on reshafting i.e. trying to justify tools :alien:

Thanks!
 
Your list is good. Don't forget the ferrules that need to be turned down though..haha. The only other thing may be a supply of brass shims in case installing a .355 shaft in a .370 head. Also, a swing weight scale if you don't have one.

1. I use a Roberts shaft puller. Only one I have owned and it seems to be a good one. I only use a heat gun for all pulls. No torch.
2. I turn down ferrules manually. Fine grit sandpaper then acetone to finish it off. Belt sander would be quicker and easier but with the amount I do, never saw the need for the expense.
3. Only use high density lead tape for swingweighting. Quick and easy. Also, don't do tip weights because I don't need to add any weight to the heal end of the club head as I already fight a hook.
4. I use the 2 part 24 hour epoxy from GolfWorks. Allows plenty of time to work before starting to set up.
 
If you want high quality stuff, look no further than GolfMechanix. They have everything you need and it's all very nice stuff.

Epoxy: the best stuff out there is Scotch Weld Dp810

A 1 inch belt sander is best for turning ferrules

A propane or map/pro torch is your best friend. Just don't use it on graphite.

Torching makes pulling heads a breeze-just hit the hosel with the torch for a few seconds and twist the head right off.

Graphite shafts you're best off with a shaft extractor. We use the hydraulic variety.



Posted on Tapatalk via my Motorola RAZR
 
pretty much second what everybody else said. If you are just doing steel iron shafts, you don't need a puller...a small bench vise with plastic/rubber protectors will work fine. If you want to go with a puller, I have the spring loaded version from Golfworks. I think it is normally about $200 but it is always part of their 20% off tool sale so you can get it for around $160. Well worth the money IMO.

I prefer to use a small butane torch for my heat source. Works faster than a heat gun (by a long shot) and only a hair slower than a propane torch. I even use the butane torch on graphite, but I wouldn't recommend that for beginners.

I use tip weights for swingweight adjustments in irons but just use lead tape in hybrids and woods. I'm not overly concerned with aesthetics though so you may not like the lead tape route. I have a simple/cheap balance scale I picked up from Golfsmith years ago that works fine for me.

Turning ferrules is an art that takes practice. The hand sanding method works but is slow. I use a small belt sander from Harbor Freight fitted with the blue finishing belt from Golfworks. The blue belt doesn't take off as much material as the linen belt so it is a little more forgiving. Finish it off with an acetone soaked piece of newspaper. Why newspaper? No lint.

You may want to think about a small chop saw. It makes cutting 7-8 steel shafts a breeze. I tried pipe cutters but then tend to move some which can throw lengths off a touch (not really enough to matter but enough to aggravate me). Again, I went the Harbor Freight route to save money and it's still working fine 6 years later.

Golfworks has these brush drill bits that I really like for cleaning out old epoxy.

Don't forget gripping supplies (grip tape and solvent/mineral spirits) unless you are going the air install route.
 
As said, if you're not pulling graphite, you don't need a puller, just a vise and a decent clamp to hold the shaft while you twist the head off. I use a heat gun on everything. It's a little slower, but far less chance of ruining shafts. I've only ever ruined less than a handful of shafts and they were all because I got too greedy with the heat torch. Never lost a graphite shaft with the heat gun. I've used tip weights and lead (or preferably tungsten) powder in steel shafts. Tip weights are simpler, but powder is far more accurate if you're a little OCD about that stuff. You can use lead tape if you're not too picky about the appearance. Get golf shafting epoxy. You can probably get by with other stuff, but why go there when there's a product made for what you're trying to do.
 
Sox Fan said:
Your list is good. Don't forget the ferrules that need to be turned down though..haha. The only other thing may be a supply of brass shims in case installing a .355 shaft in a .370 head. Also, a swing weight scale if you don't have one.

1. I use a Roberts shaft puller. Only one I have owned and it seems to be a good one. I only use a heat gun for all pulls. No torch.
2. I turn down ferrules manually. Fine grit sandpaper then acetone to finish it off. Belt sander would be quicker and easier but with the amount I do, never saw the need for the expense.
3. Only use high density lead tape for swingweighting. Quick and easy. Also, don't do tip weights because I don't need to add any weight to the heal end of the club head as I already fight a hook.
4. I use the 2 part 24 hour epoxy from GolfWorks. Allows plenty of time to work before starting to set up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this response, I'm in a similar position as I bought some used Mizuno iron heads that were their lighter version heads without knowing it. I may rebuild some irons with tip weights but had a lot of questions about Epoxy. This helps a lot! I was a bit anxious about buying just any Epoxy as I've never done this before.
 
I'm resurrecting this thread as I am diving into the hobby this winter. I have a couple of main purchases to start - I would love to hear feedback on these choices and if anyone has further suggestions:

Swingweight Scale - I dunno why, by I can't deal with the though of trying to build clubs without knowing S/W. It a digitial one worth it over simpler designs? I tend to like nice tools, so I might lean this way over analog. And Which one... Maltby? Auditor? Other?

1" Belt Sander - For shaft prep and ferrules. Overkill, but I like tools. I am torn between golf specific setup with 1x30" with cutoff wheel, vs. something more universal like a Grizzly 1x42" + 8" disc combo. I am leaning toward the latter, as I already have a 10" miter saw for which I could get an abrasive blade for shaft use.

Shaft Puller - kind of hoping to get away without one... but if I do, what is everyone's favorite?

Shopping cart at Golf Works is full of things like hosel brushes and shafting epoxy. Let's go!
 
I will add to the above.

Best General Purpose Golf Vise - this could take a lot of forms... standard bench vise with rubber insert, special jaws, or even there are some golf specific models with special jaws. At current I have a bench vise with one of those $4 rubber inserts... its is OK for regripping but barely.... underwhelming a bit in overall security.
 
I have a crazy basic setup in the basement with effectively my only 'stations' being a hydraulic puller and a grip station. You can absolutely get by going that route, and that includes ignoring swing weight (which I've done for years now with zero remorse).

If I were to add things at this point, a combo belt sander/grinder would absolutely top the list.
A good measuring tool would be next.

Shaft pullers are... interesting.
 
I am considering building my own club measuring tool in the machine shop at work. Seems simple... I'll find a way to make it hard :ROFLMAO:
 
You switched to graphite shafts at the recent THP Experience the Graphite Challenge. Invest in a puller unless you are ditching composite materials.
 
JB said:
You switched to graphite shafts at the recent THP Experience the Graphite Challenge. Invest in a puller unless you are ditching composite materials.
Click to expand...

:eek: Those shafts are NOT being pulled!! More like switching all my other steel shafts over to graphite :) But you are right I will probably need a puller sooner than later.
 
I also want to add. The machines cost more, but if you can afford to go Mitchell, go Mitchell. Same as used in the best fitting centers. Same as used on tour vans. Built to last a lifetime and I have tried everything else and the cheap stuff always fails to measure the same.
 
Mitchell is great stuff and I can't imagine you'd be disappointed in it, but if you start looking at a loft and lie machine, don't rule out the True Blue. It's beautiful and high quality.
 
My opinion is that DIY is the best choice, even regarding reshafting irons. Irons are the easiest, you just gotta have a good source of heat. I always do it myself. I appreciate a man who values good quality. Steel is more affordable, but iron is what you need. For warming the ferrule I use a heat gun. For me it's much handier and easier to use. Don't forget to use protective glasses and leather gloves!! I did it without gloves one, luckily I still have skin on my hands, hahaha. Every tip I learned was over the internet thetoolscout.com and ever since I reshafting has become my hobby. I should make a business of it, shouldn't I??
 
Last edited:
JB said:
I also want to add. The machines cost more, but if you can afford to go Mitchell, go Mitchell. Same as used in the best fitting centers. Same as used on tour vans. Built to last a lifetime and I have tried everything else and the cheap stuff always fails to measure the same.
Click to expand...
Mitchell is good, but just as in golf it is way way more about the archer than the arrow. I have seen plenty of screw up measurements on a Mitchell because the person doing it, either didn't know what they were doing or were just bad at it. Golfworks and golf mechanics stuff is every bit as good and just as exact when used by a good club maker. Calibrate the unit every so often and you are good to go.
 
Well, well, well.

This is getting dangerous. I've got a swingweight scale, a shaft puller, and assorted other bits for re-shafting delivered over the weekend.

Who knows where this is headed o_O
 
GraniteRoost said:
Well, well, well.

This is getting dangerous. I've got a swingweight scale, a shaft puller, and assorted other bits for re-shafting delivered over the weekend.

Who knows where this is headed o_O
Click to expand...
Sounds like it is headed towards fun.
 
GraniteRoost said:
Well, well, well.

This is getting dangerous. I've got a swingweight scale, a shaft puller, and assorted other bits for re-shafting delivered over the weekend.

Who knows where this is headed o_O
Click to expand...
If it turns into a side hustle let me know :LOL:. Like Golf and Ski, and thankfully they were able to "fix" it, but they cut my Masters Edition LinQ from the event 2" short 😢. I think I'd trust you as much if not more
 
thewilderside said:
If it turns into a side hustle let me know :LOL:. Like Golf and Ski, and thankfully they were able to "fix" it, but they cut my Masters Edition LinQ from the event 2" short 😢. I think I'd trust you as much if not more
Click to expand...

You've got to be kidding me. That is a crime. I think I'm actually mad for you. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot 🤮
 
GraniteRoost said:
You've got to be kidding me. That is a crime. I think I'm actually mad for you. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot 🤮
Click to expand...
Wish I was. I picked it up and went to take some swings and was like oh $*&# what have I done. They put an extension in it to bring it back to standard Callaway length but it definitely shakes my confidence in their abilities.
 
GraniteRoost said:
Well, well, well.

This is getting dangerous. I've got a swingweight scale, a shaft puller, and assorted other bits for re-shafting delivered over the weekend.

Who knows where this is headed o_O
Click to expand...
nice, I've been slowly building out my budget club building set up.

I think a more purpose built clamp/vise and 1" belt sander are going to be next on the list.
maybe some sort of mount/stand for the vise and shaft extractor.
 
Cutoff blades - if I put a cutoff blade in my 10" chop saw, no question that shaft is getting chopped. However, it that too much speed, am I going to splinter the crap out of composite shafts? Seems like this should work fine, especially if I wrap with tape before cutting?

www.homedepot.com

DIABLO 10 in. x 3/32 in. x 5/8 in. Metal Cut-Off Disc DBD100093L01F - The Home Depot

Diablo's 10 in. x 3/32 in. x 5/8 in. Metal Cut-Off Disc provides superior performance and increased productivity. Featuring an aluminum oxide blend, the disc quickly grinds through material and offers
www.homedepot.com

1615223438507.png
 
PS - Mods this thread might belong in the Club Building forum more than the Shafts forum if you are so inclined...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top