Using Ping Lie/Length Chart

Thinking of ordering a couple CBX wedges, one for birthday and maybe one for Christmas, as my family usually asks what I want and my birthday is approaching. Found a good deal on them and can get custom wraps, lengths and lies, so trying to figure out if you measure your wrist to floor dimension with or without shoes, and do you wear the golf shoes you normally play in?

Also, how do you know if you want additional wraps under the grip?

Note: May consider Ping Glide (not 2.0), found a great deal on them, may post another thread on comparing the two, but those don't have the options, just standard lengths/lies.

Thanks

Which lofts are you considering ?
Which model (s) are your current iron set PW and GW, and what length are those wedge (s) ?
Usually, for the higher lofted wedges, player have shaft lengths .5" to .25" shorter than PW length.
For example, a common set up is PW 35.5"
52* 35.25"
58* 35"
And, regarding grip size, players most often maintain the same size for wedges as does have their iron set.

fishn said:

Thinking of ordering a couple CBX wedges, one for birthday and maybe one for Christmas, as my family usually asks what I want and my birthday is approaching. Found a good deal on them and can get custom wraps, lengths and lies, so trying to figure out if you measure your wrist to floor dimension with or without shoes, and do you wear the golf shoes you normally play in?

Also, how do you know if you want additional wraps under the grip?

Note: May consider Ping Glide (not 2.0), found a great deal on them, may post another thread on comparing the two, but those don't have the options, just standard lengths/lies.

Thanks

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I'm always cautious using the static measurements, because I am a very odd exception to them. They can be a decent place to start, but I wouldn't take them as gospel. Length and lie of the club are best obtained for through a very basic fitting with impact tape and a lie board. Of course, if you are 6"6" you are going to need longer, upright clubs vs 5'6" that needs shorter and flatter. Best to get a basic fitting though that can be used for irons and wedges. Lie can also be seen in your divot interaction with the turf, some videos on line about that sort of thing.

Wraps under the grip can be statically measured by gripping the club and seeing the gap between your finger tips and palm. You want them nearly touching or just lightly touching, generally. See the illustration below. Again, this can vary person by person based on desired feel and results through experimentation.

Thanks guys.

DG_1234, I got a set of Wilson C200s from my family for Christmas, 44 PW is 35.75" and 48 GW is 35.5". They are ok on length, but other irons are longer than my old Fat Shaft irons. I was going to either stay at 35.5" for both CBX or maybe drop both down to 35.25" or so. A guy on a CBX post said he had the 48 C200 and thought it played more like a 50, he went with 54 and 58 and liked them. I was thinking of that combo or maybe 52/56, although I have considered getting the Smart Sole S in 58 and getting a 54 in the CBX. Only 60 I ever had was a TaylorMade TP and I never hit it well, so doubt if I go above 56 or 58 with any additional clubs, although I also thought about a 60 in RTX-3 with little bounce for tight lies.

tpluff, thanks, and thanks for the photos, I had no idea there was such a rule of thumb, no pun intended. I will try to check that out later when I try to hit some golf balls in the yards. I found a post about using a Callaway lie label to determine degree of lie, and also thought about ordering a lie board. I have the feeling I need a 1 or 2 degree flat, as I am closer to 5'-6" than 6'-6", but would like to get it close as I can.

Thanks again, guys, may God bless you both.

I'm 5'5" and have 2flat. Works really good for me.

fishn said:

Thanks guys.

DG_1234, I got a set of Wilson C200s from my family for Christmas, 44 PW is 35.75" and 48 GW is 35.5". They are ok on length, but other irons are longer than my old Fat Shaft irons. I was going to either stay at 35.5" for both CBX or maybe drop both down to 35.25" or so. A guy on a CBX post said he had the 48 C200 and thought it played more like a 50, he went with 54 and 58 and liked them. I was thinking of that combo or maybe 52/56, although I have considered getting the Smart Sole S in 58 and getting a 54 in the CBX. Only 60 I ever had was a TaylorMade TP and I never hit it well, so doubt if I go above 56 or 58 with any additional clubs, although I also thought about a 60 in RTX-3 with little bounce for tight lies.

.

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Regarding CBX, I agree with the guy who said the 48* played more like a 50*. The CBX wedges have a cavity back, light shaft etc... and are deigned to produce high trajectory shots with lots of spin. This results in less carry distance than traditional non cavity back , heavier shaft wedges.
Since you now play a Wilson C200 48* GW (35.5*), I think you should consider a 54* and 58* in CBX, Ping Glide, or other brand-model.
The reason I suggest 54* is because with your Wilson 48* GW you already have the green side chip and run covered, and the 48* can be played out at 100 yards as well. A 52* would be too much of a duplication of your 48*. However a 54* will give you the high trajectory soft landing you want from 75-95 yards, as well as some bunker play.
Either the 58* CBX or 58* Smart Sole are good for high trajectory shots from 80 yards and in to green side lobs, bunker shots etc... I like the forgiveness of the CBX sole (from any lie) and I've found the Smart Sole 58* wedge wide sole to be great from just about every type of lie, including bare hard pan.
I am not a fan of narrow sole low bounce lob wedges. I understand these are advertised as "good for firm conditions", but I've found that low bounce lofted wedges have so little forgiveness that if the strike is not excellent the shot result will be disappointing.

Hmmm. I disagree with a lot of the above. More spin than a muscle back?
And carry distance would be based on fitting regardless as there are naturally high spin and naturally low spin players.

JB said:

Hmmm. I disagree with a lot of the above. More spin than a muscle back?
And carry distance would be based on fitting regardless as there are naturally high spin and naturally low spin players.

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In broad terms, today's offered cavity back iron sets are designed to help achieve higher (than muscle back) trajectory shots.
At the highest lofts, for example, 50* to 60*, the perimeter weighting, center of gravity, light shaft weight etc...results in higher trajectory spinning shots that may not carry as far as a traditional 50* to 60* traditional blade style lofted wedge.
A friend of mine recently bought a set of i500's. He loves playing them but after a few rounds decided to take the i500 PW and U wedge out of his bag. He told me "they don't go anywhere", meaning his trajectory was high and soft landing, but well short of his expected carry distance.
I've experienced the same thing with my G700 set's PW, U, and SW, but I have adjusted and now play more club. For example, instead of playing a SW from 100 yards I will play the U wedge.
My G700 set carry distance is tremendous with from 4-9-iron, but I think the design factors which help carry distance in the stronger lofted clubs result in less carry distance with wedges.

Again that’s a fitting issue.
And hollow body is different than that of a cavity back in a number of ways.

Those irons are designed to fly high but spin less. Hence achieve distance. Descent angle is an important numbers there.

Cavity backs are not designed to spin more than a muscle back counterpart. Some thinner options can get close with certain designs.

Thanks guys for the post