What are you building? (Club style)

I'm at home with a sick child rather than with some fellow THP'ers at Oak Quarry so I'll probably be posting here in an effort to get my golf fix. I recently put together two clubs. An Adams Super 9031 head which I got on eBay for $10 and paired it with a Kuro Kage Black 80 iron shaft in stiff flex. It was meant for my son but she actually looks great and I'm wishing I had tipped the shaft so it would fit me better. I think I'll try and find the same deal again and make myself one.

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Also I purchased a Callaway 815 3 wood and am pairing it with both a Fujikura F3 Motore and the tester shaft from Project X which is a higher torque version of HZRDUS Red. When I took off the grip the writing said 3.7 torque which is ideal. I love the feeling of 3.5 to 4.0 torque. I tipped it 1 1/4 inches so when it's installed in the head it comes out to 42 3/4" and the Motore is 43". Both shafts look great in the head.

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Put this sucker together today..
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Wish I would've taken "during" pics, but...

i bought a set of Fourteen TC 330 irons to try. They were 4-pw. They are strong lofted and long, as in, the pw is 42* and over 36". They were a good deal. Tried on the range and was reminded how fat soled irons aren't for me. Anyways, I knew I probably couldn't sell them so I decided to reshaft the 7-pw for my wife. Still needed a sand wedge and gap wedge. I had a Yonex wedge head laying around. I then bought a new Taylormade superlaunch approach head that had a broken shaft. I then bought some ladies iron shafts from value golf, and some colored ferrules. I reused some magenta ILines that were in another set that were unused. Thinking bac I should've bought a JDM approach wedge so she would have an all JDM set. Here are the results.

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Wanting to put some new shafts in my CB3s. Looking at CTaper Lite and PX PXi. Both of them are .355, specifically, the PXi is .355 taper tip.

Would it it be okay to use shims? Any specific shim?

And with the CB3s being .370 parallel, can you use a .355 taper shaft in them?
 
Wanting to put some new shafts in my CB3s. Looking at CTaper Lite and PX PXi. Both of them are .355, specifically, the PXi is .355 taper tip.

Would it it be okay to use shims? Any specific shim?

And with the CB3s being .370 parallel, can you use a .355 taper shaft in them?

You should be good with shims. I put CTLs into the Speedblades, that were .370 hosels. Make sure you use .355 ferrules though.
 
Just reshafted my Mizzy Fli-Hi 2i with a TT Black Gold and GP Tour Wrap..
 
Put some DG S300 into 7-GW #StaffProtos and an AXE Excalibur graphite into the 4i. Left the Tour 90 in the 5 and 6.

Should give me somewhat of a poor man's flighted setup.
 
Bought these SMT heads for a deal. I had some left over Nippon 950 HT shafts and various colored ferrules and pulled grips. I figured what the hell.

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Put together some wedges to march with the irons above...

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Okay so I am pondering whether to take my clubs into a Golfsmith, or other pro shop, to have shafts pulled and new shafts put in. My other thought and recommended by 441 was to check into any THPer's in the Ohio region are good at doing the above work. I would also be looking to have a graphite shaft adapter pulled and fitted to different shaft, along with a new adapter placed on a new shaft.

The driver shafts would probably be easier to just take into the shop.

Thoughts? Any Ohio gents out there shafting their clubs on their own?
 
This is a great thread. Started regripping about a year ago, and now want to start tinkering with pulling/installing shafts and adapters. And let the fun begin!
 
I just reshafted a set of irons for a friend. It's the first work I've done for somebody else. I took my time and I'm really happy with the results.
 
Okay so I am pondering whether to take my clubs into a Golfsmith, or other pro shop, to have shafts pulled and new shafts put in. My other thought and recommended by 441 was to check into any THPer's in the Ohio region are good at doing the above work. I would also be looking to have a graphite shaft adapter pulled and fitted to different shaft, along with a new adapter placed on a new shaft.

The driver shafts would probably be easier to just take into the shop.

Thoughts? Any Ohio gents out there shafting their clubs on their own?

Sorry im not in Ohio to help with your reshafting but definitely get the the tips taken off with a proper puller machine, best to get done at the shop. If you are confident putting clubs together is quite easy just need the right adhesive.
 
Yeah so I picked up a heat gun and let it heat the adapter I want to remove from my snapped shaft and that adapter didn't budge.

Call the shop and they want $15 to remove the adapter and $10 to install. Geez oh Petes I need to open my own shop.
 
Yeah so I picked up a heat gun and let it heat the adapter I want to remove from my snapped shaft and that adapter didn't budge.

Call the shop and they want $15 to remove the adapter and $10 to install. Geez oh Petes I need to open my own shop.
Save yourself 10 bucks and just have them pull it and you can put the new adapter on.

But you should do all your irons yourself. It's really easy, just heat, pull, epoxy and you are done. Graphite is a whole other situation. haha
 
Yeah so I picked up a heat gun and let it heat the adapter I want to remove from my snapped shaft and that adapter didn't budge.

Call the shop and they want $15 to remove the adapter and $10 to install. Geez oh Petes I need to open my own shop.
Heat and patience is all you need dude. Especially if the old shaft if already ruined.
 
Save yourself 10 bucks and just have them pull it and you can put the new adapter on.

But you should do all your irons yourself. It's really easy, just heat, pull, epoxy and you are done. Graphite is a whole other situation. haha
. That was my thoughts as well. How much epoxy should be used? Can you put to much on? I've also wondered how far the shaft needs to be seated inside the adapter.

Heat and patience is all you need dude. Especially if the old shaft if already ruined.

The shaft I am trying to take the adapter off was snapped. Think I was heating on high for about 5-10 minutes.

May have them remove the adapter off the shaft I plan on using.


Definitely want to start doing all this work by myself now that I have a bit more time.

Any online sites you two recommend for ferrules?
 
. That was my thoughts as well. How much epoxy should be used? Can you put to much on? I've also wondered how far the shaft needs to be seated inside the adapter.



The shaft I am trying to take the adapter off was snapped. Think I was heating on high for about 5-10 minutes.

May have them remove the adapter off the shaft I plan on using.


Definitely want to start doing all this work by myself now that I have a bit more time.

Any online sites you two recommend for ferrules?
you really can't put too much on. Any excess epoxy can just be wiped off. As far as seating the adapter, just push it until it won't slide and further up the shaft.

Nothing really much more to it.
 
. That was my thoughts as well. How much epoxy should be used? Can you put to much on? I've also wondered how far the shaft needs to be seated inside the adapter.



The shaft I am trying to take the adapter off was snapped. Think I was heating on high for about 5-10 minutes.

May have them remove the adapter off the shaft I plan on using.


Definitely want to start doing all this work by myself now that I have a bit more time.

Any online sites you two recommend for ferrules?
Better to use a little too much than not enough. You can clean off the excess before it sets.

If you can get that adapter pulled, it is really easy from there.
 
Make sure you clean out all the old epoxy from the adapter. It will be easier to do while the adapter is still hot.


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Yeah so I picked up a heat gun and let it heat the adapter I want to remove from my snapped shaft and that adapter didn't budge.

Call the shop and they want $15 to remove the adapter and $10 to install. Geez oh Petes I need to open my own shop.

FWIW, I found a torch takes literally no time at all to do it, the gun takes forever for me (when doing irons).

I'll be making a trip to my local shop tomorrow for an adaptor swap, as much as I hate to do it.... this shop was supposed to close, and was really hoping to snag a bunch of equipment when it was closing.
 
Pulled the head off the White Damascus 5CS and now have a black chrome stepless shaft curing.
 
A backweighted and CB MXM 7.

Just need the putter to get here so I can put it together.
 
Yeah so I picked up a heat gun and let it heat the adapter I want to remove from my snapped shaft and that adapter didn't budge.

Call the shop and they want $15 to remove the adapter and $10 to install. Geez oh Petes I need to open my own shop.

If you have a head for the adapter on the snapped shaft, just put the head on and heat so you can get some better leverage to spin it off... I realize you wouldn't do this on a good shaft but you should be able to get it this way... A few months ago I traded a Rogue silver for a Rogue black and when the black got to me, it was completely split in two pieces... All I could do was save the OEM Titleist adapter and thats how I got it off. Using it on a Proforce V2 now.
 
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