Dry fitting iron head - how tight?

manhattan01

Active member
Joined
Jan 30, 2014
Messages
528
Reaction score
140
Location
Surrey, BC
Handicap
RCGA 9.8
Was just dry fitting a pulled iron head onto a graphite shaft. How tight should it be? I'm finding it really snug. The graphite shafts were pulls (professionally) thanks.
 
you should be able to insert all the way without having to slam it down with all your weight

anything more than a strong tap and you should sand out the hosel a little

also make sure you're not trying to put parallel .370 tips into taper .355 heads
 
Last edited:
You might want to check the tips to be sure there is no residual epoxy from the pull. Even done professionally, this can happen,( this would cause it to be "out of round" and would not fit properly). If there is, lightly sand the epoxy away and you should be all set.
 
Cool. Yeah both head and shaft are .370. there was residual epoxy but I sanded it off. I didn't want to sand it too much but I'll do a bit more. I can get the head on and off with some back and forth twisting motion but not sure I feel comfortable doing that on a graphite shaft.
 
Cool. Yeah both head and shaft are .370. there was residual epoxy but I sanded it off. I didn't want to sand it too much but I'll do a bit more. I can get the head on and off with some back and forth twisting motion but not sure I feel comfortable doing that on a graphite shaft.

You don't want to twist graphite shafts if you can help it. When working with graphite shafts I like to get what I call a slip fit. Essentially you should be able to insert the shaft straight into the hosel and have it nearly bottom out with hand pressure. This leaves room for epoxy to bond the shaft into the hosel and lets you set the shaft fully with a couple good taps. I set the shafts fully by holding the head and tapping the handle end of the shaft onto a piece of carpet on my shop floor. There's always more than one way to do it but this method has worked well for me.
 
Back
Top