We've launched the new forums! Read more here

pulling a graphite shaft

Nippon Shafts
P

putterSRT11

New member
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
84
Reaction score
0
Handicap
11
hey guys, I am trying to pull a graphite shaft using a shaft puller. Its a nike SQ11 three wood and Ive tried a heat gun on high setting for a few minutes which didnt do it and then I tried a butane torch for a few minutes and it still wont budge. Its a hydraulic puller, Have any of you guys had this problem?
 
putterSRT11 said:
hey guys, I am trying to pull a graphite shaft using a shaft puller. Its a nike SQ11 three wood and Ive tried a heat gun on high setting for a few minutes which didnt do it and then I tried a butane torch for a few minutes and it still wont budge. Its a hydraulic puller, Have any of you guys had this problem?
Click to expand...
I would make sure you are heating with the butane torch (my preferred method) all the way around the hosel and from the top of the hosel to the bore depth, if you miss some epoxy it won't budge. You should hear a cracking noise, which is the epoxy breaking away from the shaft, then pump the puller a few times to release the head from the shaft. Some OEM's use generous amounts of epoxy...

EDIT: be sure to remove the ferrule before using the puller. just melt it off (takes 1 quick second with the torch) and then use a hook blade utility knife to cut it off.
 
I recommend NOT using a butane torch on graphite, but that's just me and personal preference, based on fear of damaging the graphite. I have never used a shaft puller, but I can't imagine it slowing down the process like you are describing. Sounds to me like you are not heating up the epoxy to a point it will break down. I used a heat gun, on the highest setting, working all the way from the top of the hosel down, all the way around. Don't spend too much time in one area or you could deform the hosel. As the previous post said, you will hear the epoxy crackle and you might even see a little bit of smoke from the epoxy heating up. That is usually my signal to move on and heat elsewhere, while applying small amounts of pull on the shaft. Good luck.
 
I use a torch and as long as you apply even heat without torching one spot the shaft won't melt.
 
JeffReedMO said:
I recommend NOT using a butane torch on graphite, but that's just me and personal preference, based on fear of damaging the graphite. I have never used a shaft puller, but I can't imagine it slowing down the process like you are describing. Sounds to me like you are not heating up the epoxy to a point it will break down. I used a heat gun, on the highest setting, working all the way from the top of the hosel down, all the way around. Don't spend too much time in one area or you could deform the hosel. As the previous post said, you will hear the epoxy crackle and you might even see a little bit of smoke from the epoxy heating up. That is usually my signal to move on and heat elsewhere, while applying small amounts of pull on the shaft. Good luck.
Click to expand...


I agree on NOT using a torch on graphite. A heat gun should do the job. It is a matter of getting the heat to the right spot with just the right amount of pressure from the shaft puller. This can be tricky on some heads. Best left to a professional if it does not happen quickly the first time.
 
yea its ok if I ruin this shaft, its a stock piece of crap, but Ive been using the hydraulic puller with some pressure on the head and going all around the head with heat. Bought a butane torch and have been using it on the head, used it for probably around 5 minutes and the head wouldnt budge. The butane torch finally broke on me. Then I used my heat gun for about 8 minutes and still the head wont budge. Ive had some strings of melted epoxy come down but no smoke. Ive had pressure on the head the entire time Ive heated it and moved it around to get even heat to every part around the head. I think the manufactures used cement, lol. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
putterSRT11 said:
yea its ok if I ruin this shaft, its a stock piece of crap, but Ive been using the hydraulic puller with some pressure on the head and going all around the head with heat. Bought a butane torch and have been using it on the head, used it for probably around 5 minutes and the head wouldnt budge. The butane torch finally broke on me. Then I used my heat gun for about 8 minutes and still the head wont budge. Ive had some strings of melted epoxy come down but no smoke. Ive had pressure on the head the entire time Ive heated it and moved it around to get even heat to every part around the head. I think the manufactures used cement, lol. Has anyone else had this problem?
Click to expand...

Yeah. The Mizuno I did for my Dad was a pain in the arse. It sounds to me like you are not heating the epoxy enough to break it down. 8 minutes with a heat gun isn't going to do the trick. I stick in one spot for about a minute or two, moving the heat gun up and down the hosel, never staying in one spot for too long. After a minute, I move where I am applying the heat. I basically break the hosel down into fifths and if you are working on the top side of the hosel first, move the bottom half after you get down. I had the heads off my Cleveland wedges in about 3 minutes using this method with a heat gun on high.
 
JeffReedMO said:
Yeah. The Mizuno I did for my Dad was a pain in the arse. It sounds to me like you are not heating the epoxy enough to break it down. 8 minutes with a heat gun isn't going to do the trick. I stick in one spot for about a minute or two, moving the heat gun up and down the hosel, never staying in one spot for too long. After a minute, I move where I am applying the heat. I basically break the hosel down into fifths and if you are working on the top side of the hosel first, move the bottom half after you get down. I had the heads off my Cleveland wedges in about 3 minutes using this method with a heat gun on high.
Click to expand...


hmm, well I just tried it on highest setting on heat gun, and did the method you described. I heat it for a little over 20 minutes and still the head wont come off. Is it time to bring out the propane?
 
putterSRT11 said:
hmm, well I just tried it on highest setting on heat gun, and did the method you described. I heat it for a little over 20 minutes and still the head wont come off. Is it time to bring out the propane?
Click to expand...

Or a sledge hammer? LOL. I don't know man. Like I said, just don't heat the hosel for too long with the torch, or you could deform the hosel, and that's not good going forward. I have seen numerous heads end up on the Bay with deformed hosels and NOT selling.
 
Removing any graphite shaft

Removing any graphite shaft

putterSRT11 said:
yea its ok if I ruin this shaft, its a stock piece of crap, but Ive been using the hydraulic puller with some pressure on the head and going all around the head with heat. Bought a butane torch and have been using it on the head, used it for probably around 5 minutes and the head wouldnt budge. The butane torch finally broke on me. Then I used my heat gun for about 8 minutes and still the head wont budge. Ive had some strings of melted epoxy come down but no smoke. Ive had pressure on the head the entire time Ive heated it and moved it around to get even heat to every part around the head. I think the manufactures used cement, lol. Has anyone else had this problem?
Click to expand...
Its so easy if you are not too bothered about the old shaft you dont need any heat at all just remove the ferrule (as previously advised) and then hacksaw it off, you lose about 20mm of the shaft so you could use it for a fairway wood. then drill out the remaining piece as they are all standard diameters on irons (except for 'fatshaft' ) use an 8.5 mm drill wrap the head in a towel and hold it in a clamp then drill out after you have cleared this then use heat to destroy the epoxy then clean out the remainder (as it will turn almost to powder) and there it is, I agree with other posts that you have to persevere in heating the epoxy to destruction especially if you have to pull a steel shaft,
Dont try drilling these STEEL suckers out as they are quite brittle and the drill snags terribly and might twist you arm off :alien2:
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top