For those that don't have twitter, here's a picture of my beauty!
Good lord that club is amazing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Callaway Big Bertha Alpha 816 Double Black Diamond Driver Preview Thead
Good lord that club is amazing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Evok
Don't worry, Be happy!
O M F G!!! Dude thats like ridiculously amazing. My two favorite colors! Absolute beauty Kang, hope you crush it!For those that don't have twitter, here's a picture of my beauty!
kc720
Active member
I'm hitting the black 6.5 about 15 yds further and the yellow is bit more prone to leave out right.... I don't know if that's the heavier weight and the lower torque of the yellow making that difference or the actual shaft characteristics differences... I really want a 65g yellow hzrdus to find out. The 75g yellow will probably get cut down for my 816 fairway
For those that don't have twitter, here's a picture of my beauty!
Having spent much of my life, including k-12 and graduating from college in Wisconsin , I really like the color scheme!
My GBB is getting out performed by a XR Pro driver with a Graphite Design AD Di6x, but maybe if I change the color......
Evok
Don't worry, Be happy!
Ah I see. Either way the combo looks so damn sexy lol would be a total win if the yellow 65 performs so you can keep that look.
kc720
Active member
Yeah. That's my train of thought and I've resorted to twitter begging lol
ProZoneGolf
Clubmaker/Fitter
Here is my set up. I used a fiberglass alignment stick as my core then wrapped lead tape to my preference height on the stick.
Many 816 DBD players like core up, however I feel its a tad too high for me as I impact near center, not above in the crown area, this results in a too solid feel and my flights are strong and traj is down. Like wise the OEM core down it feels too low, like hitting a cream puff and the ball trajectory jumps high quickly.
I play this custom made core in the heal tape down, but its not as low weight as the OEM gravity core. The fiberglass stick has a bit more weight than the Cally lightweight plastic so there is some more weight above the tape than OEM, but less overall with the amount of tape I applied.
I did try two fiberglass sticks in both ports and got neutral to slight push right flights that were low, as it was more front weighted. This would be good for high spin, high ball/traj players.
Keep in mind the shaft I am using is the Rogue 70x rip i/o tech which is a low/mid shaft. I may switch to a mid launch like my UST Elements Fire 6F5 (71g)
For me being a draw swing, low ball hitter, 105mph, fast tempo hitter, the best set up was this and lead tape on the pear, (please excuse my pear test tape application), which I will replace with washers under the cally weight, soon as I get to Lowes hardware for the right sizing to fit in the port.
This basically reduced the heavier weight (IMO: too heavy) lower in the heal and stopped my draws to 'big draws' and added more MOI / peak height / solidness to impact to drives with rear weighting added in line with center. Kinda like my 815 DBD
Don't cut the fiberglass stick too short, buzz it down to fit tight with the screw cap contacting it to tighten before the last thread 1/2 turn. Bevel the ends to match the OEM core...Bingo now your set to wrap some tape. If you don't have a swing weight scale buy one or go by feel. Opt for the heavier feel long as you can get it around to impact, if not peel a inch of tape off heal or toe side depending on your flights.
I did make some up on a 3D printer however the material was weak. I do have the CAD spec's and may get aluminum made. for now its my alignment stick a tad shorter!
Cheers
The only other adjustment I did was to pull the shaft, to remove the ferrule and back the shaft out 1/4 inch. The ferrule weighs 1 SW point! and its high in the heal :bad:
I was a tad firm at 270cpm & now down to 268. This will help me get launch up more with a softer tip, and no ferrule binding the shaft to the sleeve by another 1/2 inch of rigidity. Now I am at 46 D4 with more distance. Or cut it off and add inch lead tape to the rear pear were its could add benefit to impact. Just like tip weights they are of no benefit, put the needed weight behind the ball.
Many 816 DBD players like core up, however I feel its a tad too high for me as I impact near center, not above in the crown area, this results in a too solid feel and my flights are strong and traj is down. Like wise the OEM core down it feels too low, like hitting a cream puff and the ball trajectory jumps high quickly.
I play this custom made core in the heal tape down, but its not as low weight as the OEM gravity core. The fiberglass stick has a bit more weight than the Cally lightweight plastic so there is some more weight above the tape than OEM, but less overall with the amount of tape I applied.
I did try two fiberglass sticks in both ports and got neutral to slight push right flights that were low, as it was more front weighted. This would be good for high spin, high ball/traj players.
Keep in mind the shaft I am using is the Rogue 70x rip i/o tech which is a low/mid shaft. I may switch to a mid launch like my UST Elements Fire 6F5 (71g)
For me being a draw swing, low ball hitter, 105mph, fast tempo hitter, the best set up was this and lead tape on the pear, (please excuse my pear test tape application), which I will replace with washers under the cally weight, soon as I get to Lowes hardware for the right sizing to fit in the port.
This basically reduced the heavier weight (IMO: too heavy) lower in the heal and stopped my draws to 'big draws' and added more MOI / peak height / solidness to impact to drives with rear weighting added in line with center. Kinda like my 815 DBD
Don't cut the fiberglass stick too short, buzz it down to fit tight with the screw cap contacting it to tighten before the last thread 1/2 turn. Bevel the ends to match the OEM core...Bingo now your set to wrap some tape. If you don't have a swing weight scale buy one or go by feel. Opt for the heavier feel long as you can get it around to impact, if not peel a inch of tape off heal or toe side depending on your flights.
I did make some up on a 3D printer however the material was weak. I do have the CAD spec's and may get aluminum made. for now its my alignment stick a tad shorter!
Cheers
The only other adjustment I did was to pull the shaft, to remove the ferrule and back the shaft out 1/4 inch. The ferrule weighs 1 SW point! and its high in the heal :bad:
I was a tad firm at 270cpm & now down to 268. This will help me get launch up more with a softer tip, and no ferrule binding the shaft to the sleeve by another 1/2 inch of rigidity. Now I am at 46 D4 with more distance. Or cut it off and add inch lead tape to the rear pear were its could add benefit to impact. Just like tip weights they are of no benefit, put the needed weight behind the ball.
Last edited:
Den60
New member
I want to preface this to say I am not the target player for this driver. I had a fitting last Saturday and hit the G-30, the XR, the GBB and my driver. The G-30 didn't work for me at all, heavier club but to me the weight feels all in the head. The XR and GBB all were longer than my Bio-Cell but not more accurate. My fitter brought out the 816 DBD and told me that this is supposed to be for low handicap players, which I am not but I am pretty accurate with my driver. I hit the hell out of this club. I'm not sure where everything was set but he had the weight at the toe. My typical miss with the driver is near the toe so I think the weight out there helps mitigate that miss. With this club my ball speed was 3-4 mph faster than the XR and GBB. That is a hell of a difference. My backspin was between 2300-2900 on all my hits which was lower than the other clubs. He couldn't remember the side spin but it was definitely less than what I was getting with the other Callaways - my shots were straighter where I was pulling the other Callaways. My carry was 15 yards longer than the nearest (though the DBD was set at 10[SUP]o [/SUP]whereas the others were at 9.5[SUP]o[/SUP]). I still launched it a bit on the high end of optimum but lower than my Bio-Cell.
The DBD felt heavier than the other Callaways but unlike the G-30 the weight felt more distributed and balanced to me. My fitter told me the shaft was 9g heavier than the other Callaways. I liked the way it felt in my hands and the fitter thought the heavier shaft helps me.
So with the numbers being better across the board and the fact that I liked the way the club felt in my hands and during my swing I bought it even though I'm not supposed to be "good enough" to hit it. But then again, engineers will say bumblebees shouldn't be able to fly. I should be picking this up later this week.
The DBD felt heavier than the other Callaways but unlike the G-30 the weight felt more distributed and balanced to me. My fitter told me the shaft was 9g heavier than the other Callaways. I liked the way it felt in my hands and the fitter thought the heavier shaft helps me.
So with the numbers being better across the board and the fact that I liked the way the club felt in my hands and during my swing I bought it even though I'm not supposed to be "good enough" to hit it. But then again, engineers will say bumblebees shouldn't be able to fly. I should be picking this up later this week.
Having experimented a bit more with the 815 at the weekend, I am curious to try hitting this and see if it can improve on what I saw when I changed the gravity core to the up position in the 815, specifically how much of a difference it can actually make if I have a day like I did on Sunday when I was hitting more shots above the centre of the club with a few towards the toe
I wasn't using a launch monitor, it was just eye-balled at the range, but I felt like I was getting much better strikes and distance with the gravity core up apart from a few where I hit low on the face. With all of the possible adjustments, little obvious differences like this are reinforcing how important it is to be fitted to find the best combination for your swing and I definitely want to get a fitting for a driver
I was wondering the exact same thing myself??
I wasn't using a launch monitor, it was just eye-balled at the range, but I felt like I was getting much better strikes and distance with the gravity core up apart from a few where I hit low on the face. With all of the possible adjustments, little obvious differences like this are reinforcing how important it is to be fitted to find the best combination for your swing and I definitely want to get a fitting for a driver
I was wondering the exact same thing myself??
ProZoneGolf
Clubmaker/Fitter
No...its just changing weight around. This cannot be done during a Tourney round or DQ
---------------------
I have been testing a UST Attas Elements Fire 6F5 x tipped 1/4 inch. Its a nice performer. I am getting med high draws with my own core heal. I will say if you draw the ball its 'key' to have a high launch, as the low draw / thin draw misses go no where. At least with loft clicked up you have the chance to get height and can play the shot out to the right and have it come back to fw decent long.
I got less of a straight push with my core toe side, so I just lined up left center of FW and that fixed the push to land in FW, felt weird ar first. Partly because the Fire shaft kicks a tad more, and is 266cpm vs Rogue 268cpm. So a softer shaft and core toe side is a good long combo, All with 3 strips of of lead tape on the pear. Then I tested two fiberglass core sticks in both ports to balance it, flights were straight, solid and down a bit.
Then NO CORE all lead tape at the rear, sideways around the pear crown line, this took more strips of tape (5) however the performance was very good, the ball got up high flatlined and carried for what seemed the biggest carries yet. The drives were BIG and long. The forgiveness was more (obviously) with all the weight at the rear. I feel I had the most smack on the ball. By then it was getting dark at the range, tomorrow I will game 18 with all lead on the rear pear / no core
Last edited:
ProZoneGolf
Clubmaker/Fitter
I drove the best today with NO CORE!...all lead tape around the pear. 9 out of 11 Fw's hit
My buddy who has been playing with me the last 5 days, and seen all the flights, said Wow! your swinging it better...actually I was more tired, and felt I was not as strong as yesterday.
The ball was 'hotter' it was moving out hard!, drives were longer, dispersion was much much straighter, trajectory was up with the Rogue 70x to medium and climbing to a nice height, but still penetrating and rolling out (not far today with wet Fw's) which the Rogue does at 78g/x. Its now a very accurate set up, reminding me of 757x evo dispersion in my 815
Also at the range prior the Attas elements fire 6f5x was driving mid high flatlines one after the other, Straight bombs! I will play this shaft on short tight courses
Finally I am not trying to create/play a shot; draw, anti-push etc with my set up...to suit the core weight position. I can swing harder 100% going straight
I shot 73 with one birdie, missed 6 putts, mainly all pars. It was tee to green in regulation with the driver setting up many approach shots
By the end of the round the last two drives I was swinging a lot harder and going longer! it was ropes with the extra effort/turn/finish
I played a local course that I like, know whats long on each hole and I was past some spots in wet conditions...some plug wet mud balls that did not release
IMHO: Ditch the core, get a lot straighter flights, and more weight/mass behind the ball/impact, IMO; the core tubes in the head do add some front weight by design anyway. It plays like a D2 on steroids.
That's it for now...I am dialed in, besides a 661 EvoII on the want list
Tip: place the lead tape slightly off center on rear pear with a bias to toe / heal side a bit, to counter any 'slight' draw/fade you have...enjoy!
This is a good spot between low sole plate and rear pear crease. Pick up a roll at Golfsmith $10
My buddy who has been playing with me the last 5 days, and seen all the flights, said Wow! your swinging it better...actually I was more tired, and felt I was not as strong as yesterday.
The ball was 'hotter' it was moving out hard!, drives were longer, dispersion was much much straighter, trajectory was up with the Rogue 70x to medium and climbing to a nice height, but still penetrating and rolling out (not far today with wet Fw's) which the Rogue does at 78g/x. Its now a very accurate set up, reminding me of 757x evo dispersion in my 815
Also at the range prior the Attas elements fire 6f5x was driving mid high flatlines one after the other, Straight bombs! I will play this shaft on short tight courses
Finally I am not trying to create/play a shot; draw, anti-push etc with my set up...to suit the core weight position. I can swing harder 100% going straight
I shot 73 with one birdie, missed 6 putts, mainly all pars. It was tee to green in regulation with the driver setting up many approach shots
By the end of the round the last two drives I was swinging a lot harder and going longer! it was ropes with the extra effort/turn/finish
I played a local course that I like, know whats long on each hole and I was past some spots in wet conditions...some plug wet mud balls that did not release
IMHO: Ditch the core, get a lot straighter flights, and more weight/mass behind the ball/impact, IMO; the core tubes in the head do add some front weight by design anyway. It plays like a D2 on steroids.
That's it for now...I am dialed in, besides a 661 EvoII on the want list
Tip: place the lead tape slightly off center on rear pear with a bias to toe / heal side a bit, to counter any 'slight' draw/fade you have...enjoy!
This is a good spot between low sole plate and rear pear crease. Pick up a roll at Golfsmith $10
Last edited:
kc720
Active member
Currently have the 816 paired with lz50 handcrafted 7.0. Playing it at 9° s/n and core low heel. With hzrdus black 6.5 I am getting a lower flight and more roll. Bit wet conditions currently and im enjoying the higher flight and more carry
How much different is the Rogue I/O vs. the Rogue 60 Silver? My ball speed is similar or a tick slower than yours and I've always struggled to get my spin below 2600-2700.
I play the Tour Green x flex in my 2Deep and my XR Pro 4 wood. I also have the GBB and XR Pro driver and 3 shafts that I've been trying to decide which I like best: the Rogue Silver 60 x, Tour Green 65 x, and AD Di 6x. So far I like the Tour Green with the XR Pro head combination the best, maybe because I've been playing the Tour Green for a while now. I'm seriously thinking about getting a 816 DBD because of the double gravity cores and all the good reviews I've been hearing. I'm a sucker for new drivers!
kc720
Active member
I didn't notice much difference from rogue silver 70g stiff to rogue io 70g stiff. Same with 60x in both versions.
ProZoneGolf
Clubmaker/Fitter
I can say with out a doubt the Fujikura Speeders 757 Evo TS x flex was much better than my Rogue 110msi 70x i/o. I had two 757's and played both in my 815 dbd
My buddy is crushing a 757x evo in a Adams XTD ti Driver right now
The accuracy was even/close with both, however I had to find one side / Flo of the Rogue to get it...roping.
The 757 evo was smoother, less harsh, not that the Rogue is that bad either
757 was longer..I think by 5-10y, I think Fujikura has the HIT technology, were Rogue is a typical Aldila shaft with good materials for dispersion trajectory, but 757 cranks them further out.
The TS was just a hair too stiff for me and I am looking at the non TS or 661 Evo II
As for spin I think I was 1800-2100 with 757, so I was at N+1 (11.5) deg loft in the head, have not been to LM with Rogue yet
Actually I think the Speeder 7.1 x is a great shaft.
Ordered a Titleist 915 D2 driver head 12 deg, (when I was getting frustrated with the bias core weight) that I will set open and drop the rogue 70x shaft in. I am looking for more LA mainly and forgiveness, not that 816 is that bad...I am willing to lose 10y for for more consistency, I always wanted to try D2 so its just a experiment. However I am hitting straight with 816/Rogue70x and getting good roll. LM will decide pro's cons
----------------
Today I slapped another inch of lead tape on the pear and drove more solid, I am getting used to 78g / 46 / d4...so I guess I am at D4.5 and still getting it around ok...
My buddy is crushing a 757x evo in a Adams XTD ti Driver right now
The accuracy was even/close with both, however I had to find one side / Flo of the Rogue to get it...roping.
The 757 evo was smoother, less harsh, not that the Rogue is that bad either
757 was longer..I think by 5-10y, I think Fujikura has the HIT technology, were Rogue is a typical Aldila shaft with good materials for dispersion trajectory, but 757 cranks them further out.
The TS was just a hair too stiff for me and I am looking at the non TS or 661 Evo II
As for spin I think I was 1800-2100 with 757, so I was at N+1 (11.5) deg loft in the head, have not been to LM with Rogue yet
Actually I think the Speeder 7.1 x is a great shaft.
Ordered a Titleist 915 D2 driver head 12 deg, (when I was getting frustrated with the bias core weight) that I will set open and drop the rogue 70x shaft in. I am looking for more LA mainly and forgiveness, not that 816 is that bad...I am willing to lose 10y for for more consistency, I always wanted to try D2 so its just a experiment. However I am hitting straight with 816/Rogue70x and getting good roll. LM will decide pro's cons
----------------
Today I slapped another inch of lead tape on the pear and drove more solid, I am getting used to 78g / 46 / d4...so I guess I am at D4.5 and still getting it around ok...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- Moderator
- #367
How are you guys enjoying the DBD?
I've got mine back in the bag for the Matrix Speed Rulz review and it never really ceases to amaze me just how much ball speed you can get off the face of this beauty. I striped four drives DEAD straight with it tonight and am excited to see if that continues.
I've got mine back in the bag for the Matrix Speed Rulz review and it never really ceases to amaze me just how much ball speed you can get off the face of this beauty. I striped four drives DEAD straight with it tonight and am excited to see if that continues.
- Thread starter
- Moderator
- #368
Sorry I didn't get to your question early TB! I think with the skill you portray, the DBD will be an excellent offering for you. That said, I'm a bit shocked that you are gaming the Ad Di6x with spin issues. I tried that shaft along with a couple others in that profile and found the tip section to be too soft to manage spin.
Rather, I'd encourage you take a look at stiffer tip profiles.. The Miyazaki Kusala Black (amazing), the Oban Devotion 7, and even the RIP i/o tipped Rogue. I like it because it shares a similar tip profile from the RIP which was stupid stout. It keeps the spin down by design without the cost of reasonable loading.
I've played four 9s with it. I like the good swings. It is an absolutely perfect ball flight. Looks like a good golfer swung the club. I tend to miss high on the face, it's weird because it feels like crap (scientific term) up there. However, I've heard my partner's reactions, and they go crazy. I kind of shrug because I know it was missed.
I definitely need to put the core in the heel and up. That sounds sublime.
- Thread starter
- Moderator
- #370
I'm currently in the toe and up. The contact quality is wildly better for me as that's my primary point of contact. I'll take the extra couple hundred RPMs.
kc720
Active member
I've had the dbd in the bag for quite a while. With hzrdus black 6.5 at 10° it's marvelous. With lz50 handcrafted 7.0 at 9° just as good. Had lots of rain and have soft conditions here so I've had the lz50 in the bag (other than today) and I've enjoyed mid/low spin high launch bombs. I play core low/heel as that provides best results for me. It's a serious battle for the top spot in my bag currently. This, m1, and soon king ltd
It's fun. I think with the weight up makes it fun to square one up and get more weight behind the ball. But on the misses, the little extra spin helps make the result playable.
- Thread starter
- Moderator
- #373
What's the biggest difference between HZRDUS and LZ?
kc720
Active member
Hzrdus is lower spin and launch. More uniform loading of the shaft from tip to butt, pretty stiff throughout, yet not at all harsh. The lz loads much more in the middle as the tech suggests, and launches higher at 9° than hzrdus at 10°. I think the combination of lighter shaft and the lz tech is providing more head speed which translates into ball speed. I could game either and not miss a beat though
kc720
Active member
Interesting how different people people feel about their misses. The thing I like the most about the dbd is that when I miss I get the knuckles that goes 240 to 250 but stays in play rather than the ball that carries far but offline. For ex. I had a m1 460 in play today and I had a couple bad swings that went 280ish but ob. With the dbd I think those would have had better chance at staying in play