Robman7
Active member
Cool thanks, I'm looking older but not super old. We really haven't started completely since we our in lease til February
The Car Shopping Thread
Agent Jay
Grandaddy Alumni
When the time rolls around, if you want additional options, let me know if I can help.
Also, if it's a Ford lease, you might be eligible for an "Early Bird" lease end rebate, HOWEVER you'd only get that if you buy or lease another new Ford. It basically pays off the last 3 months of your lease for you.
Happy to help!
Robman7
Active member
Yeah with the kid on the way, we our just trying to keep monthly cost down and now she pays over 330 a month on a Hyundai that's a lease, so if I get it anywhere lower than 300 or so I would be super happy. Really trying not to lease again but when it comes time, I'll surly ask you some questions
emart2173
#journey2017
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I like the look of the newer explorers. The edge is pretty nice. Couple people from my church have them.
Well, I thought I was going to look at a nice cayenne red 2014 Altima on Sunday, but it was sold before the dealer could get it to the lot that's in the town I live in. So they're sending another 2014, a silver one, for us to test drive. There are 3-4 on the local lot (2013 and 2014 models), but they're all up around 30k miles and are former rentals, I'd prefer one that was off lease. I have to say, working with an Internet sales manager has been an absolute dream so far. Let's see if that continues 
Wake
Active member
I normally enjoy car shopping, but doing it for my wife has been less than fun. We just can't pick one she likes, we thought we had chosen the Kia Sportage, but it's getting replaced in January. No need to pay that kind of price for a vehicle that will be old in 6 months.
Took the whole family today to test drive a 2014 Altima with 20K on the odometer. Former rental, with a black interior you could tell the hard plastic areas were a bit beat up. Plus it was NOT a CPO after I specifically asked if it was. On the good side, the saleswoman we worked with was very nice and no pressure at all. It's a good price, but too many little things plus the lack of being CPO are turning me off.
Test driving a loaded 2013 Sonata tomorrow, this one has 20k as well and IS a CPO. I actually work across the street from a Hyundai dealer but I will never give them sales business after a terrible experience I had with them. Won't mind getting my oil changed there, though.
Oh and today I learned that running credit checks without written permission is illegal. I had asked the saleswoman not to have a check run when they copied my ID since we're doing a lot of test drives, when she told me about it being illegal. Why did I make sure I asked that? See the above comment about the dealer I work across the street from.
Test driving a loaded 2013 Sonata tomorrow, this one has 20k as well and IS a CPO. I actually work across the street from a Hyundai dealer but I will never give them sales business after a terrible experience I had with them. Won't mind getting my oil changed there, though.
Oh and today I learned that running credit checks without written permission is illegal. I had asked the saleswoman not to have a check run when they copied my ID since we're doing a lot of test drives, when she told me about it being illegal. Why did I make sure I asked that? See the above comment about the dealer I work across the street from.
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Picked up my new ride on Saturday. 2015 Toyota Rav4 Limited. Loaded and love it !
mike1950
New member
I spent over 30 yrs in the retail auto business. Salesman, used car manager, new car manager, finance manager.
#1. Do your homework. Check your credit rating. Talk to YOUR bank or credit union. Check local values of cars you are interested in and your trade.
#2. Be reasonable. On the purchased car - why should you get it for a lot less than market value? If trading in - why should you get more than dealer can pay at auction? Is either vehicle is above or below average?
#3. Dealer WANTS to sell. They make no money on walk-aways.
#4. If you plan to keep the vehicle for 4-5 yrs, buy a service contract as long as it is through a national service contract company. Again, check it out. If on a tight budget, a major repair and car payments can break the budget. Price of a service contract is usually negotiable also.
#5. Lease vs purchase. If you expect to have a car payment for the next 15 yrs or so and do not drive many miles, leasing generally gets you more car for the same payment and allows for more frequent trades. Do not lease for long term just to lower payments. Look at less expensive cars. "You don't own the car if you lease ".......you don't OWN it if you finance it either.
#6. You DO get a better deal at the end of the month. Everyone is trying to make bonuses, quotas...etc.
#7. If offered by the dealer, credit life insurance are cheaper for older people and more expensive for younger. Rates are based on 30 yr old purchaser and not job specific. Check your insurance company for rates.
If anyone wants any help, ask me. If you want to argue or flame me, don't bother. Opinions are like butts, everyone has one, some just stink more than others. The above is mine from experience.
#1. Do your homework. Check your credit rating. Talk to YOUR bank or credit union. Check local values of cars you are interested in and your trade.
#2. Be reasonable. On the purchased car - why should you get it for a lot less than market value? If trading in - why should you get more than dealer can pay at auction? Is either vehicle is above or below average?
#3. Dealer WANTS to sell. They make no money on walk-aways.
#4. If you plan to keep the vehicle for 4-5 yrs, buy a service contract as long as it is through a national service contract company. Again, check it out. If on a tight budget, a major repair and car payments can break the budget. Price of a service contract is usually negotiable also.
#5. Lease vs purchase. If you expect to have a car payment for the next 15 yrs or so and do not drive many miles, leasing generally gets you more car for the same payment and allows for more frequent trades. Do not lease for long term just to lower payments. Look at less expensive cars. "You don't own the car if you lease ".......you don't OWN it if you finance it either.
#6. You DO get a better deal at the end of the month. Everyone is trying to make bonuses, quotas...etc.
#7. If offered by the dealer, credit life insurance are cheaper for older people and more expensive for younger. Rates are based on 30 yr old purchaser and not job specific. Check your insurance company for rates.
If anyone wants any help, ask me. If you want to argue or flame me, don't bother. Opinions are like butts, everyone has one, some just stink more than others. The above is mine from experience.
Lots of sound advice in there. Do you have any tips/opinions on buying a car privately?
mike1950
New member
Do your homework. Check www.nadaduides.com, get a mechanic to check it out. $50-75 to a mechanic might save $1000 later on. Check carfax. If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is.
JRod
Well-known member
I just want to point out that I couldn't disagree with #4 more unless it's a service contract through the vehicle manufacturer .
Being in the repair business for the better part of 15 years I have dealt with these companies such as Route 66, wheels, etc.
You pay a fortune for these contracts and they will do anything they can to avoid holding up their end of the bargain. They don't pay for diag, fluids, etc.
I can't count how many times I've seen warranty claims denied due to "lack of maintenance " even with receipts of oil changes , fluid exchanges , etc.
Just my 2 cents .
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mike1950
New member
Very good advice. That is why I said "check it out". I have sold thousands of private company service contracts that were very good. Also have seen some terrible ones.
VegasMav
Cigar Posse Member
Another tip when looking for a new car.
Pick the model of car you like and then once you have a car you like, ask the dealer which car in that model has been aging on the lot the longest. Usually they cut an even better deal on it. I saved about $2500 more this way. Even better to do as close to last day of the month.
Pick the model of car you like and then once you have a car you like, ask the dealer which car in that model has been aging on the lot the longest. Usually they cut an even better deal on it. I saved about $2500 more this way. Even better to do as close to last day of the month.
mike1950
New member
Yep, sorry I forgot that. Dealers want to move older stock due to floor plan interest.
The comments above about stock age are interesting. I test drove a used Sonata today that had been on the lot since early May. When that salesman pulled it up for me, he warned me that the brakes were a bit "gunked up" from sitting for a while. That's got me wondering about how much I could get knocked off the asking price if I decide to go that route.
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mike1950
New member
Used cars might not be floor planned (financed). All new vehicles are floor planned from the factory to the lot. Most continue to be. But, on the Sonata, the value has dropped some since they acquired it. A 60 day old vehicle has had its time on the lot. But in either case, make sure the brake issue is addressed at point of sale.
There's a big difference between some fly by night ripoff company like US Fidelis and a major insurer that offers service contracts like Allstate.
Good points, thank you very much for the info.
I think I'm going to make an offer on the Sonata. The sales rep said they'd usually add $800 to the asking price to have it go through the CPO process to get the full extended warranty & perks that come with that. I negotiate all the time at work, but that's on service contracts, not one off purchases so I'm trying to figure out where to come in on my offer.
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JRod
Well-known member
You know it's funny you mention Allstate. I just had a water pump job on a Chrysler Aspen where they wouldn't cover the thermostat even though you HAD TO change it with the water pump. They also didn't cover the radiator cap or the coolant flush that was required. Willing to risk a customers vehicle over a 9 dollar thermostat and a 6 dollar radiator cap. This was a contract the customer paid close to 2300$ for.
I'm not saying there aren't good options out there but generally speaking I've had terrible dealings with warranty companies unless they are sold through the manufacturer, not the dealership.
mike1950
New member
When I was in the business, we usually had 100% mark up in the service contract. $800 is a fair price for a 3-4 yr one if it with a bona fide service contract company or the manufacturer. It is not motors and transmissions that usually fail. It is power window motors, ps pumps, alternators, a/c compressors, etc. Those $150-300 parts with equal labor. I just paid $410 for a clutch slave cylinder. $75 part, $310 labor plus brake fluid and tax. CHECK IT OUT. Check with local repair shops and see if they have had any dealings with the company.
Wake
Active member
JRod, I'm assuming you fully endorse the CRV and Accord, what about a Nissan Rogue? I know Nissan isn't your favorite, any major known issues with the current (14+ I think) Rogues?
Thanks again Mike. This would be a contract direct through Hyundai for 5 yrs/60k full plus 10 yrs/100k power train. The car is a 2013 with 23k miles on it, former lease with all service done through the dealer.
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JRod
Well-known member
Not enough sample size honestly.
Wish I could help but models that new usually are still within the free service packages and warranty so we obviously don't see them for 3-4 years in service. Unfortunately my buddy at the local dealership just moved back to Phoenix so I don't even have anyone reliable I could call.
Sorry :arrogant:
Wake
Active member
Isn't that the standard Hyundai warranty?
I figured that, thanks anyway.
I'm assuming you would go crv in a heartbeat over Rogue personally?