Forged irons and wedges

bathtub.gin

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OK so I have two questions. One. I recently moved from off brand iron cast and quite large to call x tour forged. I'm having issues hitting. When I do connect it puts a smile to my face. Is it just practice to get to where I used to be? Also I only have the x tour PW and a cheap pinemeadow 60*. When I get the 60 working its money but I'm like 50% confident with it. I work on it a lot but not seeing improvement. Should I add a wedge? What degree? Or any drills or tips to perfect my short game?

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OK so I have two questions. One. I recently moved from off brand iron cast and quite large to call x tour forged. I'm having issues hitting. When I do connect it puts a smile to my face. Is it just practice to get to where I used to be? Also I only have the x tour PW and a cheap pinemeadow 60*. When I get the 60 working its money but I'm like 50% confident with it. I work on it a lot but not seeing improvement. Should I add a wedge? What degree? Or any drills or tips to perfect my short game?

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I am also a newbie so I can't offer much help. I apologize for that. But wanted to say awesome username. good luck
 
Thx. Who doesn't love a little phish.

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How the iron is made has nothing to do with how forgiving the iron is.

Callaway Apex is forged and is extremely forgiving. Mizuno also makes some forgiving forged clubs.

However, forged is nothing more than a process. There are clubs out there that are cast that feel (sound) just as good as forged clubs.

As for your question, I am not sure what you are asking. Do you have a 54 or 56 degree wedge?
 
My recollection of Cally Tour X Forged is that they are a muscle cavity iron. That means they are quite a bit more difficult to hit than say, a deep cavity back iron. And what I really mean by that, is that it is more punishing, particularly in distance, to miss the center of the face with a muscle cavity iron than a deep cavity back iron.

As to the wedges, if your PW is 47* or even 46*, you may consider 50 and 54 degree wedges.

~Rock
 
Thx. Who doesn't love a little phish.

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why panic when you can phish?

my freshman year of college I made friends a big pothead hippie guy over a mutual love for playing music and Dave Matthews Band. this guy was a helluva drummer. anyway, he starts asking me to go to concerts with him in Birmingham. the only two I agreed to go were bands I had never heard of before: widespread before houser died, and phish. widespread was good, but phish was insane.


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Lets keep this about clubs guys. Thank you.
 
You moved from a very easy to launch(forgiving) iron to one that takes a very repeatable/consistent swing to be played.

It has nothing to do with them being cast or forged.

The sweet spot on your new irons is much smaller than your old ones and this is why your struggling to hit them.

As for the wedge a 60* is a tough club to be good with for a high capper and takes proper technique as it's not forgiving. Pick up a 54 or 56 and drop the 60. You can probably still find some Cleveland cg16 wedges for sale cheap at golf smith, golf galaxy or online


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Thank you guys. I understood they would be harder when I picked them up. And the cavity is very deep. Like I said. When hit they boom the ball a lot further. So just work on consistent swings and I'll get there? And no I only have two wedges. Right now. Looming in my area for something g decent and cheap. Thinking I'll set up some posts as flags and practice 5 balls on each till I can get them within a certain distance. Its not that the 60 causes a lot of issues. Just determining how big of a swing to use. And yes this is my first season but golf any chance I get and practice almost every day. I actually play very well. Better than a lot at my course just got to work on putting and the birdies will come.

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I took on my titleist 690's (a shallow cavity club) when I was an 18 handicap and to be honest it was a little early at the time, took me about 6 months playing 5 days a week to get on top of them (I was a junior with lots of free summer time!). The plus side is that it exponentially improved my ball striking in the long run.

my tips would be to take a little bit of power out of the swing and really focus on rhythm and timing before building back up. Another slightly random tip... If you live near an empty beach, that is an awesome place to practice your ball striking for these and the 60.
 
I live in Wisconsin in farm country so have a field. Yeah think it was a bit early for the clubs but at 75 bucks couldn't pass it up even if learned and used as trade in. Next season.

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On the wedge side of things you might consider adding something in the 52* and 56* range. 60* is tough to hit and isn't long. You probably have a big gap between it and your PW which is probably in the 46*-48* range. I'm a huge fan of the Wilson Staff FG Tour TC wedges. They perform as well as anything and are relatively inexpensive.
 
good wedges can mean the difference between winning and losing, because they have to be pretty dialed in. a few feet difference means a tap-in or a two-putt. the longer clubs can vary from model to model in yardages, and that doesn't impact the game much. but if you have 32 yards to the pin, hitting it 1 yard more or less will mean a longer putt.

with wedges, the higher lofts, 58 to 60 degrees, are the most difficult to master because the face is so flat, the contact on the ball has to be perfect. there are many increments of degrees like 48,52, and 56, or 48, 54, and 60, but again, the higher lofts are harder to master. in addition to lofts, you need to look at the bounce of the wedge - higher bounce if fluffy lies and soft sand are common in your course, lower bounce for tight lies and hard sand.

it's actually more important to get fitted with your wedges and putter rather than your irons or woods, because in the short game, 12 yards is 12 yards, and there is no more room for error. you can spray all you want with the irons and woods, but if you don't have your wedges dialed in, there's a lot more work waiting for you on the putting green.

i may be the exception, but when i shifted to forged irons i actually hit them better than the cast ones which had bigger heads. for some reason the smaller heads of the forged irons were easier to hit, and i felt confident that they would cut through turf instead of the chunky cast ones i used to have. that said, forged irons need practice.
 
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