We've launched the new forums! Read more here

shaft trimming

SuperStroke
AK jr.

AK jr.

d2 college player
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
1,099
Reaction score
16
Location
TN
Handicap
0.1
this one may be a good one for andy also.

ok so im going to get a new 3 wood eventually, but being an ebay person i am going to get it off of there. problem is, most items either have the stock shaft or a shaft to somebody elses specs. thats no biggy, cuz i could just switch out the shaft. well, going to ebay again for the shaft, there are hardly any fairway wood shafts on there, mostly just drivers. i realize some shafts can be tipped 1-2 inches, but that also strengthens the flex of the shaft. does butt trimming do the same? or does it just cut down on the length
 
It depends on the shaft.



You also need to pay attention to the tip, whether it's a taper or square fit.
 
what is the difference between how the square and taper effect it
 
I'm possibly looking at doing some shaft trimming and extending myself.

If anyone could point me to some quality tutorials and tool suggestions, I'd appreciate it.
 
Tipping shafts has much more affect than but trimming. Wood shafts are parallel tip that come in .335, .350 and .370. You have to pay attention to how much Parallel tip section there is when tipping so as not to screw up the shaft. There are also butt trim only shafts.

Iron shafts come in .370 parallel and .355 taper.
 
ok so for fairway woods if i butt trimmed it like 2 or 3 inches it wouldnt change that much?
 
Great info, thanks!
 
I noticed that Golfworks and Golfsmith have the same shaft trimmer for $10:

STC.jpg


You can buy a graphite shaft blade for another $5.

But Golfworks also sells a cut-off saw for $40:
CSM6.jpg


They make it sound like the blade will cut both steel and graphite:
The GolfWorks High Speed Cut-Off machine will easily cut any graphite or steel shaft. The base plate features an adjustable guide that will allow you to pre-cut the angles on a shaft for a through-bore wood or ironhead. The GolfWorks High Speed Cut-Off Machine is portable and does not need to be mounted to a bench. Note: includes one blade! Portable and lightweight. Uses 6” wheels.
Click to expand...
But if the manual one works fine, I'd rather do that until I determine exactly how much cutting I will be doing. (Still, $15 for manual vs. $40 for electric makes you think.) I'm hoping it will be rare.

And the pipe cutters I see online at Lowes and Home Depot are, like $30.
017197368776md.jpg


For shaft extensions, what kind of epoxy is best?

Are grips worth trying to save? For example, I may trim down a driver with a brand new grip. Same with extending the shaft of an iron.

EDIT: Man, it really sucks having non-standard lengths and lie angles. With my luck lately, I'll suddenly discover I'm actually a lefty too.
 
Watch those tubing cutters, and the cutting wheel in them. There are different grades of cutting wheels for them, some for soft tubing (like copper) and some for hard tubing (like steel)

My tubing cutters are Ridgid brand, left over from my days installing A/C systems.

I use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut graphite shafts (steel too, when I'm feeling lazy) but that's a specialty tool, and takes a HUGE air compressor to run.


I've got a chop saw too, but it's a 14", where that one's a 7".

My next major tool purchase will be a benchtop belt sander, I'm fond of this one from Kalamazoo:

1sk6-2-25.jpg


I can use the sander on one side, and stick a cutoff wheel on the left when I'm building clubs. I'll also use it when I'm fabricating, and fitting hot rod parts.
 
I'd spend the extra for a cutoff saw or you can get an angle grinder for a tad less. I'd avoid the tube cutters for shafts all together as the can ruin both graphite and steel.

Check Harbor Freight, they're usually the best price wise.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top