Long driver shaft build tips?

Karl

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Looking to try building a shaft longer than 46" playing length to try. I hit my rogue 70 well at 46. Any tips? Is adding a 2" but extension to a 45 much different than an uncut shaft?
 
Is adding a 2" but extension to a 45 much different than an uncut shaft?
No, not in my opinion.
I would prefer a whole shaft but I add extensions all the time without any issues.
However, if you are using a grip weight such as on a Superstroke Putter it doesn't work with extensions.
 
No, not in my opinion.
I would prefer a whole shaft but I add extensions all the time without any issues.
However, if you are using a grip weight such as on a Superstroke Putter it doesn't work with extensions.

Any preference for lighter vs heavier shaft or counterbalanced?
 
Looking to try building a shaft longer than 46" playing length to try. I hit my rogue 70 well at 46. Any tips? Is adding a 2" but extension to a 45 much different than an uncut shaft?

Just go with a graphite or plastic extension and cut the part that goes into the shaft as short as possible to save on weight gain. I only insert about 1 inch of the extension into the shaft, with epoxy. Between the epoxy, grip tape and the grip, you should have no issues keeping it in place. If it doesn't work out adding the length, just warm it a little and pull it.
 
I had a shaft lengthened to 48" playing length and after two rounds the results are promising. It has eliminated the occasional pull hook. I'm getting easy distance and good contact. Will likely try to get an uncut shaft to compare.
 
IMO: Build no heavier than D3 SW to get same flex around (D2.5 cool). You might have to go 0.5 to +1 face angle closed. Put S1 to 3 o clock or 12 to firm the profile up (logo down or up), since it will play softer and lag, or tip it 1/2in too. Cally's have high hosel and require more tipping, or get one flex more
 
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IMO: Build no heavier than D3 SW to get same flex around (D2.5 cool). You might have to go 0.5 to +1 face angle closed. Put S1 to 3 o clock or 12 to firm the profile up (logo down or up), since it will play softer and lag, or tip it 1/2in too. Cally's have high hosel and require more tipping, or get one flex more

S1 to 3 oclock or 12? What does that mean?
 
S1 to 3 oclock or 12? What does that mean?
Overanalysis is what it means. Especially with today's shafts and their production quality.
 
Update. Played driver at 48" today and figured out for my swing to do less lower body rotation and more shoulder and arm to avoid blocks and get the face square. Hit some straight bombs.
 
A graphite extension more than accounts for itself by extending the length of the club. C.P. the flex characteristics of that part of the shaft covered by the upper third of the grip are inconsequential. "Gripping up" may "soften" the flex; but only marginally and proportionally. The longer the shaft, the stiffer the tip section must be to maintain stability. I think that, at present, we are pushing the limit. Unless we stretch the par 5's out beyond 800 yards; who needs to hit the ball more than 270 or so?
 
A graphite extension more than accounts for itself by extending the length of the club. C.P. the flex characteristics of that part of the shaft covered by the upper third of the grip are inconsequential. "Gripping up" may "soften" the flex; but only marginally and proportionally. The longer the shaft, the stiffer the tip section must be to maintain stability. I think that, at present, we are pushing the limit. Unless we stretch the par 5's out beyond 800 yards; who needs to hit the ball more than 270 or so?

I have the extension on a project x lz blue. It is tip stiff and has a thick but section. Seems to work well although I haven't built any others to compare it to.
 
S1 to 3 oclock or 12? What does that mean?


Find the spine and locate it to the away from the target or at 3 o clock. s1 is spine 1 or the dominant stiff side of the shaft. Every shaft is different many have dominant spines that do matter. FWIW I have NEVER seen a shaft without a spine to some degree. The best shaft extension is a cut section of another shaft as its the lightest option to reduce counterbalancing. Take it to a clubmaker, get flex cpm measured first, then you will see the loss in flex with a dry build, from there spine it to get the firmest side you can out of the profile with Flo. Again I recommend S1 3 o clock...usually logo down
 
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Overanalysis is what it means. Especially with today's shafts and their production quality.

I have to disagree to keep content correct for the readers.

Here is 2016 Aldila Rogue i/o 70x far from radial consistent... the same shaft as the OP
http://vid919.photobucket.com/albums/ad35/hamish333/002_zpseb3gba09.mp4

I have a roller bearing spine finder that measures flex at the same time, not many clubmakers have these, and the new digital ones are very expensive...been using it 20+ years. Most of today's shafts vary flex when rotated. Usually 1-2 points (4 points between flexes). Some don't so much but they are rare!. NEVER seen a round one. Best I have seen is a Miyazaki JDL which was designed for adjustable hosels...they made that pretty darn round, again most are not especially type 1 shafts . Worst lately was a real deal Fujkura 757 Evo TS. UST try to weed them out by etching tour spx on the rounder ones, and they cost more $. Just measured a Aeroburner 50g stiff...it was 270cpm...that's start of double x flex!, bet the .350 tip has a lot to do with that.
 
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I have to Disagree to keep content correct...I have a roller bearing spine finder that measures flex at the same time, not many clubmakers have these, and the new digital ones are very expensive...been using it 20+ years. Most of today's shafts vary flex when rotated. Usually 1-2 points (4 points between flexes). Some don't so much but they are rare!. NEVER seen a round one. Best I have seen is a Miyazaki JDL which was designed for adjustable hosels...they made that pretty darn round, again most are not especially type 1 shafts . Worst lately was a real deal Fujkura 757 Evo TS. UST try to weed them out by etching tour spx on the rounder ones, and they cost more $.
Here is 2016 Aldila Rogue i/o 70x
http://vid919.photobucket.com/albums/ad35/hamish333/002_zpseb3gba09.mp4
You'll have to excuse me if I go with what I have learned directly from the people who design the shafts. You have your way, thats cool, I'm glad you believe in it, but I believe it's overanalysis.
 
Update. Played driver at 48" today and figured out for my swing to do less lower body rotation and more shoulder and arm to avoid blocks and get the face square. Hit some straight bombs.


That is the main issue with long builds is getting the face square to the ball. You have a good lite head. Japan club builders are very good at long length set ups, 47 builds are common, mostly I see lighter heads to attain low SW with a closed face angle. Try +1 D setting, and try all sides of the shaft (4). I have made a few and I find there is no need to hit, but smooth swing/turn, or even more time in the transition at the top of the swing to allow for all the mass/weight to catch up square at impact. Sure if you go after it (old swing) blocks and pushes all day. Reminds me of Rocky Thompson and the Killer Bee Driver that was a long production model. If you re-shaft look for a lite x-stiff or stiffer shaft, high bend point, preferable boron or high strength materials, cheaper option buy the Cally Speeder 665x on the bay cheap then extend that, or buy it with the GBB head and ditch the R-Moto weight, then slide the rear weight to draw position.
 
That is the main issue with long builds is getting the face square to the ball. You have a good lite head. Japan club builders are very good at long length set ups, 47 builds are common, mostly I see lighter heads to attain low SW with a closed face angle. Try +1 D setting, and try all sides of the shaft (4). I have made a few and I find there is no need to hit, but smooth swing/turn, or even more time in the transition at the top of the swing to allow for all the mass/weight to catch up square at impact. Sure if you go after it (old swing) blocks and pushes all day. Reminds me of Rocky Thompson and the Killer Bee Driver that was a long production model. If you re-shaft look for a lite x-stiff or stiffer shaft, high bend point, preferable boron or high strength materials, cheaper option buy the Cally Speeder 665x on the bay cheap then extend that, or buy it with the GBB head and ditch the R-Moto weight, then slide the rear weight to draw position.

So the GBB head is lighter than the XR16 head? I am normally on the low end of stiff flex but you are recommending x flex with long builds? What about grip size, bigger or the same?
 
So the GBB head is lighter than the XR16 head? I am normally on the low end of stiff flex but you are recommending x flex with long builds? What about grip size, bigger or the same?

I was referring only about the Cally oem 665x its really a S+, from my testing and limited online feedback, and I thought this at 48 would work, plus they are all over e-bay cheap with a tip and grip too, all you have to do is lengthen it. You have lengthened the stiff 2 1/4 inches, my bet its cpm/flex is closer to regular at your length of 48, and 'perhaps' the profile is not staying with you or lagging in the down swing with your usual down force. Can you upload a video of your swing at a LM? Its important to know your desired CPM and stick close to that regardless of length. GBB will be lighter with the weight behind R-Moto removed, think its about 4-5g, however not sure your head weight.
Go with a full cord grip they are a tad heavier and this will counterbalance the head, or lower SW, thus make it a bit easier to square, if you want mid size cord then perhaps with no tape and it will be in between std/mid size yet have mid size weight. IMO go with Lamkin as their rubber is softer, lasts longer and resists going hard with age. Sounds like you are enjoying those bombs!, there addictive at 48inches...its a whole new flight many have not seen, unless your behind a tee box at a tour event. I have not messed with one at 47 in years, mainly I was spraying balls, however shafts today have changed...I may tinker! there is on par 5 fw bunker I need to fly like the old days...thanks for posting
 
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I was referring only about the Cally oem 665x its really a S+, from my testing and limited online feedback, and I thought this at 48 would work, plus they are all over e-bay cheap with a tip and grip too, all you have to do is lengthen it. You have lengthened the stiff 2 1/4 inches, my bet its cpm/flex is closer to regular at your length of 48, and 'perhaps' the profile is not staying with you or lagging in the down swing with your usual down force. Can you upload a video of your swing at a LM? Its important to know your desired CPM and stick close to that regardless of length. GBB will be lighter with the weight behind R-Moto removed, think its about 4-5g, however not sure your head weight.
Go with a full cord grip they are a tad heavier and this will counterbalance the head, or lower SW, thus make it a bit easier to square, if you want mid size cord then perhaps with no tape and it will be in between std/mid size yet have mid size weight. IMO go with Lamkin as their rubber is softer, lasts longer and resists going hard with age. Sounds like you are enjoying those bombs!, there addictive at 48inches...its a whole new flight many have not seen, unless your behind a tee box at a tour event. I have not messed with one at 47 in years, mainly I was spraying balls, however shafts today have changed...I may tinker! there is on par 5 fw bunker I need to fly like the old days...thanks for posting

Go for it. The main benefit is I can get the ball out there with not much effort and just focus on hitting the ball square. I can be all over the place with a standard length driver.
 
I think I may try a build with an axe tour swd50 uncut. It is light 49 g and has a stiff tip.
 
This is for sure the way I'm going now. Never drove the ball straighter. Will continue to tinker with different shafts but keeping the playing length at 48 ".
 
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