BluesManDan
Active member
Short explanation:
The basic idea is figure out what club gives you equal carry and roll. Add or remove loft by changing clubs to get less or more roll out based on where you want to land it.
LONG explanation with too much detail:
I had been struggling with my chipping, and so have worked on it pretty hard, and have come up with a method that is pretty accurate, though not exactly simple. It's simple to do, but not simple to explain. I wish I could show you, but like I tell my 2 year old, I have to use my words... It's choosing the right club based on the ratio of carry to roll at particular distances. I started with the "Rule of 12" (youtube it) but I found that difficult to work with, since I don't have a 12 iron, and the ratio of paces and roll wasn't the same at different distances. It's 1:1 at 20 paces, but if you're at 10 paces it's half that, and at 40 paces it's twice that... So here's my modified approach. NOTE: I use a putting-like stroke for chips, no matter what club I'm chipping with.
1. Pace off the distance of the chip from the ball to the hole (or the point where the shot would need to die if uphill/downhill)
2. Divide by 2, and pace back towards the ball to find the middle point. (20 paces total? 10 paces back is the middle point)
My 52* GW has a 50/50 carry to roll ratio for me. At 20 paces, the 56* rolls one pace less. My PW rolls one pace more, 9i 2 paces more, 8i 3 paces more, etc. Your impact position may be different than mine, and a different club will be the one that carries/rolls 50/50 on a 20 pace shot. You have to find which club does that for you. Could be a PW (10 iron) or a SW (12 iron). Mine is a GW (11 iron).
3. Now, once you've found the midpoint, count your paces from the midpoint to where you want the ball to land (usually a few feet onto the green just past the fringe). How many paces separate the MIDPOINT and the LANDING SPOT?
4. You'll typically take one club more for each pace you take to that carry spot. This works in a 1:1 ratio at around 20 paces.
So, let's say I have a shot, and pace it off to the hole... it's 22 paces. Okay. Pace back to the midpoint... it's 11 paces. Now I pace to my landing spot a few feet on the green, and it's 3 paces from the midpoint. Subtract 3 from the GW: PW, 9i, 8i. I'll chip an 8 iron onto the green.
That's the basic Rule of 12 method, modified to a rule of 11 because of the changes in club lofts in recent years. The GW is my 11 iron, the PW is a 10 iron. Then you're into the regular 9 iron, 8 iron, so forth.
NOW this part is important: The one step to one club measurement, regarding the paces that separate the midpoint and the landing spot, only works at 20 paces. Clubs roll out more compared to your pace when you get further away, and less when you get closer. 1:1 works at 20 paces. 1:2 at 40 paces. 1: 1/2 at 10 paces. And in between those for 15 or 30 paces.
So when I count the pace from the midpoint to the landing spot, I have to alter my gait or use some math to figure the club I need to use. NOT for pacing the whole distance, and NOT for pacing to the midpoint, but ONLY for pacing from the midpoint to the landing spot.
In English that means...
For my gait, a 20 pace shot (45 feet), I use a full length step when counting from the midpoint to the landing spot.
But on a 40 pace shot, there is a one club change for every 2 paces when counting from the midpoint to the landing spot.
On a 10 pace shot, it's reversed, there is a 2 club change for every one pace (one club for every half pace) -- from the midpoint to the landing spot.
SO...
Let's say I have a shot, and I pace from the ball to the hole, and I count 40 paces. I pace back to the midpoint... it's 20. Easy. Now I count paces to my landing spot, and it's 10 paces. What club do I choose? If I subtracted 10 from the GW, I'd use a 1 iron (a 3 wood in loft), and it would roll too far, probably off the green. Since it is 40 paces, it will roll twice as much as my pace. Take 10 and divide by 2... 5... That gives me a 5 club difference... which subtracted from the GW gives me a 6 iron. That will work. If it's MORE than 20 paces total, I have to figure on more roll compared to my pace.
Now let's reverse it:
Let's say I have a shot, and I pace it off to be 10 paces total. The midpoint is 5 paces back. Now I pace to my landing spot, and it's 3 paces. What do I do? If I just subtract 3 from the GW, I get an 8 iron, and it won't roll ENOUGH to get to the hole. At 10 paces, it will roll half compared to 20 paces. So, I need to multiply by 2. 3x2=6. Subtract 6 from the GW... that'll be a 5 iron.
If it's a 30 pace shot, I don't multiply by 1.5 as I pace toward the landing spot, I just take bigger steps than normal. And if it's a 15 pace shot, I don't multiply by .75, I just take a slightly smaller step than normal.
Once you get outside 40 paces, it's no longer a chip, but a pitch, and the roll is going to shrink a LOT because of spin and angle of descent (so there's a point of diminishing return), so you can't figure on ratios, or at least I haven't figured out how to.
The basic idea is figure out what club gives you equal carry and roll. Add or remove loft by changing clubs to get less or more roll out based on where you want to land it.
LONG explanation with too much detail:
I had been struggling with my chipping, and so have worked on it pretty hard, and have come up with a method that is pretty accurate, though not exactly simple. It's simple to do, but not simple to explain. I wish I could show you, but like I tell my 2 year old, I have to use my words... It's choosing the right club based on the ratio of carry to roll at particular distances. I started with the "Rule of 12" (youtube it) but I found that difficult to work with, since I don't have a 12 iron, and the ratio of paces and roll wasn't the same at different distances. It's 1:1 at 20 paces, but if you're at 10 paces it's half that, and at 40 paces it's twice that... So here's my modified approach. NOTE: I use a putting-like stroke for chips, no matter what club I'm chipping with.
1. Pace off the distance of the chip from the ball to the hole (or the point where the shot would need to die if uphill/downhill)
2. Divide by 2, and pace back towards the ball to find the middle point. (20 paces total? 10 paces back is the middle point)
My 52* GW has a 50/50 carry to roll ratio for me. At 20 paces, the 56* rolls one pace less. My PW rolls one pace more, 9i 2 paces more, 8i 3 paces more, etc. Your impact position may be different than mine, and a different club will be the one that carries/rolls 50/50 on a 20 pace shot. You have to find which club does that for you. Could be a PW (10 iron) or a SW (12 iron). Mine is a GW (11 iron).
3. Now, once you've found the midpoint, count your paces from the midpoint to where you want the ball to land (usually a few feet onto the green just past the fringe). How many paces separate the MIDPOINT and the LANDING SPOT?
4. You'll typically take one club more for each pace you take to that carry spot. This works in a 1:1 ratio at around 20 paces.
So, let's say I have a shot, and pace it off to the hole... it's 22 paces. Okay. Pace back to the midpoint... it's 11 paces. Now I pace to my landing spot a few feet on the green, and it's 3 paces from the midpoint. Subtract 3 from the GW: PW, 9i, 8i. I'll chip an 8 iron onto the green.
That's the basic Rule of 12 method, modified to a rule of 11 because of the changes in club lofts in recent years. The GW is my 11 iron, the PW is a 10 iron. Then you're into the regular 9 iron, 8 iron, so forth.
NOW this part is important: The one step to one club measurement, regarding the paces that separate the midpoint and the landing spot, only works at 20 paces. Clubs roll out more compared to your pace when you get further away, and less when you get closer. 1:1 works at 20 paces. 1:2 at 40 paces. 1: 1/2 at 10 paces. And in between those for 15 or 30 paces.
So when I count the pace from the midpoint to the landing spot, I have to alter my gait or use some math to figure the club I need to use. NOT for pacing the whole distance, and NOT for pacing to the midpoint, but ONLY for pacing from the midpoint to the landing spot.
In English that means...
For my gait, a 20 pace shot (45 feet), I use a full length step when counting from the midpoint to the landing spot.
But on a 40 pace shot, there is a one club change for every 2 paces when counting from the midpoint to the landing spot.
On a 10 pace shot, it's reversed, there is a 2 club change for every one pace (one club for every half pace) -- from the midpoint to the landing spot.
SO...
Let's say I have a shot, and I pace from the ball to the hole, and I count 40 paces. I pace back to the midpoint... it's 20. Easy. Now I count paces to my landing spot, and it's 10 paces. What club do I choose? If I subtracted 10 from the GW, I'd use a 1 iron (a 3 wood in loft), and it would roll too far, probably off the green. Since it is 40 paces, it will roll twice as much as my pace. Take 10 and divide by 2... 5... That gives me a 5 club difference... which subtracted from the GW gives me a 6 iron. That will work. If it's MORE than 20 paces total, I have to figure on more roll compared to my pace.
Now let's reverse it:
Let's say I have a shot, and I pace it off to be 10 paces total. The midpoint is 5 paces back. Now I pace to my landing spot, and it's 3 paces. What do I do? If I just subtract 3 from the GW, I get an 8 iron, and it won't roll ENOUGH to get to the hole. At 10 paces, it will roll half compared to 20 paces. So, I need to multiply by 2. 3x2=6. Subtract 6 from the GW... that'll be a 5 iron.
If it's a 30 pace shot, I don't multiply by 1.5 as I pace toward the landing spot, I just take bigger steps than normal. And if it's a 15 pace shot, I don't multiply by .75, I just take a slightly smaller step than normal.
Once you get outside 40 paces, it's no longer a chip, but a pitch, and the roll is going to shrink a LOT because of spin and angle of descent (so there's a point of diminishing return), so you can't figure on ratios, or at least I haven't figured out how to.
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