M2 Driver Adding Weight to Play at Shorter Length

miparman

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Messages
162
Reaction score
18
Location
SE Michigan
Handicap
14
Really wanting to try a M2 but length issues at paramount. I want to play at 44.5". Using a 63 gram shaft and a 63 gram GP CP2 miidsize i know sw at that length is major.
Im losing 8 to 9 points and if my memory is correct it takes approx 2 grams of weight at the head for every point lost. So im needing 18 to 20 grams in the head. Am i correct?
And if so Billy Bobs heaviest weight is only 12 grams. So unless theres heavier ones out there i would assume its hot melt?
Unless someone has some other solutions.
 
M2 Driver Adding Weight to Play at Shorter Length

Are you talking 2016 or 2017 M2 ?
Rear weight on the 2016 is like 1-2g. The 2017 is 8-9g if that helps.

At 44.5 with 65g ish shaft you're gonna need the head to be around 204g to be at a more stock like swing weight of D2.

The M2 head + TM adapter is 199g. So you'd need to add like 5g to get a D2ish swing weight which shouldn't be difficult.

You gotta remember most stock shafts are lighter and counterbalanced to accommodate the long modern shaft lengths.

40ab0ad4df7f302b1b8e31546123fd1d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I play my 2016 M2 at 44.5. It has a kurokage silver Tini 60 shaft with MCC +4 standard grip. I ended up buying the heaviest weight and trimmed it down with a dremel to 7 oz. it comes in around D2.5-3 best I can check myself. Also maybe you could go with a standard size grip and build up with tape to save some weight in the grip end.
 
This is probably a beginner question, but why do you have to attain a certain swing weight when you cut down a driver shaft? Isn't it just lighter than before?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is probably a beginner question, but why do you have to attain a certain swing weight when you cut down a driver shaft? Isn't it just lighter than before?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Swing weight isn't an actual measure of weight, but more of a way to measure the ratio of weight distribution vs length of the club.
When you cut the shaft down you aren't changing the actual weight by very much, maybe a gram. But by shortening the shaft it changes the balance point and feel "swing weight" of the club quite a bit. From what I can find, no certain swing weight is right or better, it really comes down to personal preference and a particular feel one is going for. In order to get that particular feel back in the club after shortening, you have to add/subtract weight typically from the head.
 
Swing weight isn't an actual measure of weight, but more of a way to measure the ratio of weight distribution vs length of the club.
When you cut the shaft down you aren't changing the actual weight by very much, maybe a gram. But by shortening the shaft it changes the balance point and feel "swing weight" of the club quite a bit. From what I can find, no certain swing weight is right or better, it really comes down to personal preference and a particular feel one is going for. In order to get that particular feel back in the club after shortening, you have to add/subtract weight typically from the head.

Ah yes that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. I want to get a new 3 wood shaft but I need it to be shortened a bit. Should I check for a certain swing weight to be achieved or just see how it does once I hit it and then adjust?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ah yes that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. I want to get a new 3 wood shaft but I need it to be shortened a bit. Should I check for a certain swing weight to be achieved or just see how it does once I hit it and then adjust?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As just a garage tinkerer I can't really answer that question with any reasonable amount of experience. Some other more experienced THPers could probably chime in with a better answer. I will say this though, I like my woods to be around a D3 Swing weight, but it's just a personal preference. You may be able to trim your 3 wood down and not even tell a difference. I would have it checked and see what it is now with your current grip and everything and if that feels good Id try to get it back to that swing weight once it is trimmed down. I wouldn't get too worked up over swing weights. It can drive you into a frenzy if you aren't careful.
 
As just a garage tinkerer I can't really answer that question with any reasonable amount of experience. Some other more experienced THPers could probably chime in with a better answer. I will say this though, I like my woods to be around a D3 Swing weight, but it's just a personal preference. You may be able to trim your 3 wood down and not even tell a difference. I would have it checked and see what it is now with your current grip and everything and if that feels good Id try to get it back to that swing weight once it is trimmed down. I wouldn't get too worked up over swing weights. It can drive you into a frenzy if you aren't careful.

Well I really appreciate your input. I'll definitely be mindful of it and I'll just go with what it is at the shorter length and if it seems off, I'll check the swing weight and adjust from there. Thanks for your insights!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Don't forget that adding weight to the clubhead will soften the flex a little. It's not significant if it's just 1/2" but as someone who's shortened dozens of drivers, it will change the flex and launch characteristics of the shaft if you are shortening and inch or more and playing the driver at a D3 or higher swingweight.
 
Ah yes that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. I want to get a new 3 wood shaft but I need it to be shortened a bit. Should I check for a certain swing weight to be achieved or just see how it does once I hit it and then adjust?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As just a garage tinkerer I can't really answer that question with any reasonable amount of experience. Some other more experienced THPers could probably chime in with a better answer. I will say this though, I like my woods to be around a D3 Swing weight, but it's just a personal preference. You may be able to trim your 3 wood down and not even tell a difference. I would have it checked and see what it is now with your current grip and everything and if that feels good Id try to get it back to that swing weight once it is trimmed down. I wouldn't get too worked up over swing weights. It can drive you into a frenzy if you aren't careful.

I have quite a bit of experience with this, so maybe I can provide some insight.

As mentioned, there is no right or wrong when it comes to swingweight. There is also no industry standard, however to give you a point of reference, D2 is a fairly popular swingweight. In my experience, when s.w. gets lighter than D0, it's difficult for most players to sense where the clubhead is at during the swing, which affects your timing and tempo. If it gets too heavy, the club will be harder to swing fast.

A good rule of thumb is 1/2" of shaft length = 3 swingweight points, 1" = 6 points. You don't necessarily need to get the s.w. back up to what it was before the club was shortened, but you'll probably need to increase it at least a little. 2g of weight in the head end of the club = 1 point. Lead tape is a great way to tweak the feel of a club. It's cheap, easy to use, and won't hurt the finish of your club.

For the original question by the OP, if possible I like using a heavier shaft to help keep the s.w. up. 9g of shaft weight = about 1 point, so you'll still need to use some other methods to get back to your desired weight.
 
My 2016 M2 plays at 44.5 with a 70g shaft and a 10g weight in the head. Im not sure on the exact swingweight but it feels just right for me.
 
M2 Driver Adding Weight to Play at Shorter Length

Here is a rudimentary way to roughly check Swingweight. It's how I do mine on my own to get them in the ballpark.

Materials:
Balance point (I clamp a razor blade in my vice)
Marker
Tape measure
Gram scale (more accurate the better)
Rubber shaft vice clamp
Paper
And the chart at the end of this post.

Procedure:
1.) Balance the club on the balance point until it is still and perfectly balanced.
2.) use marker to make a mark on the shaft at the balance point.
3.) use tape measure and measure from the butt end to the mark you made on the shaft )again the more accuracy the better) record this number in inches on the paper.
4.) place the rubber vice clamp on the scale and tare it out to zero.
5.) place the rubber vice clamp on the shaft centering the mark you made in the center of the clamp.
6.) place the club/clamp on the scale and record the weight in grams on the paper.

Now for the math
7.) subtract 14 inches from the first measurement you made and record it on the paper.
8.) multiply the result of step 7 by the weight you recorded in step 6 and record the number on a sheet of paper
9.) refer to the chart below (inch-grams column) for the approximate swing weight of your club.
8d2ed6870bae9ca344df4e484ebd7a29.jpg
 
I have quite a bit of experience with this, so maybe I can provide some insight.

As mentioned, there is no right or wrong when it comes to swingweight. There is also no industry standard, however to give you a point of reference, D2 is a fairly popular swingweight. In my experience, when s.w. gets lighter than D0, it's difficult for most players to sense where the clubhead is at during the swing, which affects your timing and tempo. If it gets too heavy, the club will be harder to swing fast.

A good rule of thumb is 1/2" of shaft length = 3 swingweight points, 1" = 6 points. You don't necessarily need to get the s.w. back up to what it was before the club was shortened, but you'll probably need to increase it at least a little. 2g of weight in the head end of the club = 1 point. Lead tape is a great way to tweak the feel of a club. It's cheap, easy to use, and won't hurt the finish of your club.

For the original question by the OP, if possible I like using a heavier shaft to help keep the s.w. up. 9g of shaft weight = about 1 point, so you'll still need to use some other methods to get back to your desired weight.

My 2016 M2 plays at 44.5 with a 70g shaft and a 10g weight in the head. Im not sure on the exact swingweight but it feels just right for me.

Here is a rudimentary way to roughly check Swingweight. It's how I do mine on my own to get them in the ballpark.

Materials:
Balance point (I clamp a razor blade in my vice)
Marker
Tape measure
Gram scale (more accurate the better)
Rubber shaft vice clamp
Paper
And the chart at the end of this post.

Procedure:
1.) Balance the club on the balance point until it is still and perfectly balanced.
2.) use marker to make a mark on the shaft at the balance point.
3.) use tape measure and measure from the butt end to the mark you made on the shaft )again the more accuracy the better) record this number in inches on the paper.
4.) place the rubber vice clamp on the scale and tare it out to zero.
5.) place the rubber vice clamp on the shaft centering the mark you made in the center of the clamp.
6.) place the club/clamp on the scale and record the weight in grams on the paper.

Now for the math
7.) subtract 14 inches from the first measurement you made and record it on the paper.
8.) multiply the result of step 7 by the weight you recorded in step 6 and record the number on a sheet of paper
9.) refer to the chart below (inch-grams column) for the approximate swing weight of your club.
8d2ed6870bae9ca344df4e484ebd7a29.jpg

Thanks guys for the input. Lots of valuable info here. Ill be doing a little more homework and testing/research as I begin the search for the perfect combo of head and shaft.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top