When Xcaliber is brought up in conversation, the brand can elicit responses all over the map, some good, some not so good, but the constant is the man behind the brand knows his stuff. Robin Arthur has been in shaft design from the beginning and has his name on some of the most successful creations of all time. He founded Xcaliber around the basis of doing something different and outside the box, but still high performing and accessible. Have there been ups and downs? Sure. But it would appear that a solid direction is finally on the horizon, which is welcome news.
There is no better example of that than the company’s Rapid Taper iron shafts. We have reviewed the initial version, the 75, here on THP, and since that time the company has created 85g and 95g iterations as well. Constantly, the feedback has been nothing but impressive, so when Xcaliber announced they were releasing a 105g version of the Rapid Taper, we just had to get our hands on them.

Quick Take
This is the weight range which could open all the doors for Xcaliber if they can get the product into the hands of golfers. The Rapid Taper 105’s are everything their 75, 85, and 95 gram siblings are, and then some. Outright performance through efficient energy transfer which brings impressive potential of not just ball speed, but launch, playable spin, and accuracy.
The Rapid Taper Concept
While I have touched on the design principles behind Rapid Taper in past articles, this deserves going over once again for those new to the fray, and with a 105g option, I believe there will be a lot of new interests in Rapid Taper.

The premise behind the Xcaliber Rapid Taper is built around how a bullwhip works through the build-up, flow, and release of energy. Much of that is due to the shape and taper of the bullwhip, from being thicker at the handle and rapidly tapering to the end. More important to emphasize is the Rapid Taper is a design that Arthur and company worked on and tweaked for over 7 years. First culminating in a wedge design, the concept proved its worth in testing which led to the Rapid Taper implementation into 75, 85, and 95 gram iron offerings.
Most important? In all significant testing, including ours here at THP, the design has been validated time and again. So, do the new Rapid Taper 105 iron shafts perform like their counterparts? Read on to find out.

Xcaliber RTI105
As has been the case with all other Rapid Taper iron shafts from Xcaliber, their testing has shown ball speed gains from 2 to 5 MPH pretty much across the board. Previously, in the RTI75 and RTI95 that I worked with, I saw results within, and in some cases exceeding, that. One thing that always stuck on my mind with those previous tests was that they were much lighter than I played at the time, and while stability wasn’t an issue, lighter can mean faster.
So, enter the RTI105, and a weight I am much more familiar with. In fact, over the past year I have made it an effort to get into that 105-115g range as much as possible and away from the 120g+ designs I continually fit into. Add to that, the desire to be in graphite with as much golf as I play with my review and coaching jobs, and there was a lot to be curious about here.

While the 105g weight is well established via the name, these are .370 parallel tip graphite iron shafts with a 5.5” tip section and the set I have been working with are “stiff” flex, which according to Xcaliber covers the gamut of 100-125 MPH driver swing speeds. While that is an impressive range of speeds, testing has backed that up for the company, and it is also worth remembering as a parallel design which requires tipping through the set, you can alter that to dial that fitting range in even more.
For this review I installed the shafts into Titleist T100S irons in 5-GW, and yes, with them being .370 there was some additional prep done to make the install possible. Beyond that, they were tip trimmed to standard recommendations and butt cut to my fit playing length. As for testing, I put the RTI105’s through their paces both on the course as well as on a Foresight launch monitor for data collection that you will see through the rest of the article. Rather than focus on a single club, however, I thought the most thorough way to dive into performance would be to look at 5, 7, 9, and GW specifically.

Visually, the Rapid Taper design remains one of the most unique looks out there. While it isn’t anything new for graphite iron shafts to look a bit different, the taper here, and how quickly it takes place, is something new compared to any other option out there. But rest easy, at setup the look is not off putting where the shape goes, and thankfully there are new graphics coming (pictured earlier) which are considerably toned down from the previous version and on a matte black body it should be much more accepted.

To the meat and potatoes though, these are good, quite good. As you can see through the data, there was a lot to like for me. The T100S are very familiar irons and coming from slightly heavier steel in them, I anticipated a speed jump, but what I saw was right around 3 MPH of additional ball speed comparatively for each club I recorded data.

All in all, I saw better launch, more playable spin numbers, excellent peak height and decent angles as well. Mix all that up, and I saw a notable jump in carry numbers too. However, both on course and monitor it was the efficiency of the RTI105’s and how they achieved all these things that stood out to me. While both the 75 and 95 held up fine for me in the past, the 105g weight proved to be a better weight fit and/or comfort.

On course, I pressed hard to test the playability of the setup. Putting them in a more compact players cavity was done with a specific reasoning, the T100S profile is built to do it all, and the shaft must either compliment or accentuate that. I was able to flight the ball up and down along with carving out shapes that were necessary for the shot in front of me. That is the ultimate test I can throw at a setup, and more proof in my mind that Xcaliber truly does have something potentially special here with the Rapid Taper design.
Now, can they get out of their own way and get them into the hands of golfers to try? That might just be the real test for Xcaliber. What do you think of the Rapid Taper design? Are they something you would seek out to try? Let us know on the THP Community as well as the comments below!
For more information on this line or any of the Xcaliber products, check out their website here.
The Details
Availability: July 2022
Price: $44.99
Flex: R, S
Tip: .370 w/ 5.5” Parallel
Weight: 105g
980×425
[QUOTE=”GolfATXAtty, post: 11111108, member: 64369″]
Hey [USER=1579]@Jman[/USER], I’m trying to build a driving iron and currently play 114 gram steel shafts in my irons. Do you think this 105 option would be too light?
[/QUOTE]
I think you’d enjoy it, honestly, I’ve had the most fun with them in the long irons and particularly my utilities!
[QUOTE=”Jman, post: 11111141, member: 1579″]
I think you’d enjoy it, honestly, I’ve had the most fun with them in the long irons and particularly my utilities!
[/QUOTE]
That’s what I wanted to hear. Thanks!
[QUOTE=”GolfATXAtty, post: 11111108, member: 64369″]
Hey [USER=1579]@Jman[/USER], I’m trying to build a driving iron and currently play 114 gram steel shafts in my irons. Do you think this 105 option would be too light?
[/QUOTE]
Remember the 105 is a raw weight but you will be giving up very little in a driving iron.
Stupid fun, so worth the experiment
[QUOTE=”kiwichris, post: 11111453, member: 57426″]
Remember the 105 is a raw weight but you will be giving up very little in a driving iron.
Stupid fun, so worth the experiment
[/QUOTE]
Yeah its more of an experiment. Just having some fun and I recall reading [USER=1579]@Jman[/USER]’s review awhile back so figured I’d give this shaft a go.
[QUOTE=”GolfATXAtty, post: 11111459, member: 64369″]
Yeah its more of an experiment. Just having some fun and I recall reading [USER=1579]@Jman[/USER]’s review awhile back so figured I’d give this shaft a go.
[/QUOTE]
I have them all the way from 5i through 62*, amazing shafts
These are the 115s but I had a blast making these for an IG guy @birdogey [ATTACH=full]9139318[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]9139320[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]9139322[/ATTACH]
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11117922, member: 32373″]
These are the 115s but I had a blast making these for an IG guy @birdogey [ATTACH type=”full” alt=”IMG_20221201_230417_897.jpg”]9139318[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=”full” alt=”IMG_20221201_230143_018.jpg”]9139320[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=”full” alt=”IMG_20221201_230134_112.jpg”]9139322[/ATTACH]
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE]
Those look great Popeye! Do you typically go graphics up on those?
[QUOTE=”Tenja, post: 11118279, member: 68067″]
Those look great Popeye! Do you typically go graphics up on those?
[/QUOTE]
Yes I do. Though they will play just fine in any orientation. There is a factory marked stable plane that is usually where the label is printed.
I like the logo up on these.
I have a 6i head that needs an RT shaft in it
[QUOTE=”shanewu, post: 11120571, member: 38120″]
I have a 6i head that needs an RT shaft in it
[/QUOTE]
DM me, let’s talk
I still can’t seem to pull the trigger on these. Really enjoyed the feeling of them but I already launch the ball high with recoil 94 F4 and these certainly did just that as well.
I think I’m going to give these a try and see what happens
I just picked up an 8,9 and PW ZX7 to experiment with. I wanted the PW to replace the ZX5 AW I have I am going to bend it two degrees week. I am thinking of trying the 95g of these. It is partially a trial to think about reshafting my T100s which have M120s in them that I have come to realize are too heavy.
The old version of these are on sale for $20 a shaft any reason not to go with those for my experiment? Anything I need to think about. I know these are .370 vs .355 but I will sand them down a bit. I may start a new thread asking for advice. I have a shaft puller but no swingweight scale I may have to pick one of those up.
Don’t sand them down to fit. They will snap. I see it a lot.
Thanks for this review, [USER=1579]@Jman[/USER] . Getting one of these to build a driving iron for Christmas. Can’t wait to share my feedback with y’all!
[QUOTE=”Typhoon, post: 11151195, member: 24954″]
Don’t sand them down to fit. They will snap. I see it a lot.
[/QUOTE]
I have heard the opposite from people here. I am not going to ream the heads out so I may have to look at something else. [USER=1579]@Jman[/USER] what did you do when you reshafted your T100s?
[QUOTE=”Typhoon, post: 11151195, member: 24954″]
Don’t sand them down to fit. They will snap. I see it a lot.
[/QUOTE]
I’ve got 250+ rounds on mine, it’s fine to sand them if you go slow.
[QUOTE=”Chef23, post: 11151336, member: 48542″]
I have heard the opposite from people here. I am not going to ream the heads out so I may have to look at something else. [USER=1579]@Jman[/USER] what did you do when you reshafted your T100s?
[/QUOTE]
They’re sanded. I also sanded for every review I’ve done on them, if you go slow and carefully, it’s fine.
[QUOTE=”Jman, post: 11151385, member: 1579″]
They’re sanded. I also sanded for every review I’ve done on them, if you go slow and carefully, it’s fine.
[/QUOTE]
How do you sand them?
[QUOTE=”Chef23, post: 11151451, member: 48542″]
How do you sand them?
[/QUOTE]
Slowly. Lmao
I use my sanding belt, but, I’ve done it a lot over the years.
If I was advising someone new who didn’t want to bore out the heads (which is also easy with a hand reamer) then I would use a dremel at low speed to remove a tiny bit at a time. The thing is, you have to keep the shade moving, you also need to realize it’s really only the last 1/4” that need to be .355, above that is .370
[QUOTE=”Typhoon, post: 11151195, member: 24954″]Don’t sand them down to fit. They will snap. I see it a lot.[/QUOTE]This is SO NOT TRUE.
A shaft that is built in a factory to .355 is made on a mandrel. That final taper is not done on the mandrel. The material is run past where the tip would be. It’s cut to size, and then the taper is sanded to finish. It’s like a pencil sharpener. Then the rest of the shaft is sanded to the final size. It then goes to paint. The final finish is applied along with cosmetics. So, a club builder or a consumer is simply doing a process that is done to every single .355 graphite shaft. The taper is very small. 3/16″ is all the taper covers. It goes from .355 to .370 in that space. Remove too much material and get a sloppy fit.. sure you could get a tip failure.
I have never had a customer return with a shaft that broke in the hosel
… Ever.
I have personally converted well over a thousand shafts over the years.
So, your statement is not remotely true.
As for reaming. I prefer not to remove weight from a head. Sure, you can do it, but I prefer converting a shaft to preserve swing weight.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11151728, member: 32373″]
This is SO NOT TRUE.
A shaft that is built in a factory to .355 is made on a mandrel. That final taper is not done on the mandrel. The material is run past where the tip would be. It’s cut to size, and then the taper is sanded to finish. It’s like a pencil sharpener. Then the rest of the shaft is sanded to the final size. It then goes to paint. The final finish is applied along with cosmetics. So, a club builder or a consumer is simply doing a process that is done to every single .355 graphite shaft. The taper is very small. 3/16″ is all the taper covers. It goes from .355 to .370 in that space. Remove too much material and get a sloppy fit.. sure you could get a tip failure.
I have never had a customer return with a shaft that broke in the hosel
… Ever.
I have personally converted well over a thousand shafts over the years.
So, your statement is not remotely true.
As for reaming. I prefer not to remove weight from a head. Sure, you can do it, but I prefer converting a shaft to preserve swing weight.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE]
It’s not that much weight. I believe I lost maybe a gram on my 223’s.
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11151728, member: 32373″]
This is SO NOT TRUE.
A shaft that is built in a factory to .355 is made on a mandrel. That final taper is not done on the mandrel. The material is run past where the tip would be. It’s cut to size, and then the taper is sanded to finish. It’s like a pencil sharpener. Then the rest of the shaft is sanded to the final size. It then goes to paint. The final finish is applied along with cosmetics. So, a club builder or a consumer is simply doing a process that is done to every single .355 graphite shaft. The taper is very small. 3/16″ is all the taper covers. It goes from .355 to .370 in that space. Remove too much material and get a sloppy fit.. sure you could get a tip failure.
I have never had a customer return with a shaft that broke in the hosel
… Ever.
I have personally converted well over a thousand shafts over the years.
So, your statement is not remotely true.
As for reaming. I prefer not to remove weight from a head. Sure, you can do it, but I prefer converting a shaft to preserve swing weight.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE
I wouldn’t say “ not remotely true”…?. I work in a shop and we get them. Maybe you do a real good job at it but a lot of people out there don’t.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=”Typhoon, post: 11152283, member: 24954″]
[/QUOTE]
So you are getting graphite shafts that are breaking inside the hosel?? Not above?? Because I have fixed a half dozen steel shafts that have broken just above the hosel this year.
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11152293, member: 32373″]
So you are getting graphite shafts that are breaking inside the hosel?? Not above?? Because I have fixed a half dozen steel shafts that have broken just above the hosel this year.
[/QUOTE]
Yup, sheared off at the hosel and you see sometimes the sanded tip prep above the hosel under the ferrule and it’s like a ridge… not. Smooth transition. Same with driver shaft adapters with someone sanding a .350 to fit into a .335 adapter.
I tell people not to do it themselves… but… as you know?
I am an absolute novice at this, but I think the important difference in what the last 5 or 6 posts are saying is that you can sand to fit, but only taper the last short portion (3/16″ or ¼”) of the shaft that needs the taper. And not any more. If you are up into the hosel that’s way too far.
This is what I understand anyway, and what I will be doing on the taper tip (edited: rapid taper) shafts that UPS has on their way to my doorstep.
Just have to decide if I “need” to pickup that 30″ belt sander from Harbor Freight or not.
[QUOTE=”Tenja, post: 11152850, member: 68067″]
I am an absolute novice at this, but I think the important difference in what the last 5 or 6 posts are saying is that you can sand to fit, but only taper the last short portion (3/16″ or ¼”) of the shaft that needs the taper. And not any more. If you are up into the hosel that’s way too far.
This is what I understand anyway, and what I will be doing on the taper tip shafts that UPS has on their way to my doorstep.
Just have to decide if I “need” to pickup that 30″ belt sander from Harbor Freight or not.
[/QUOTE]
You nailed it. Anyone going up enough to make a ridge doesn’t understand the actual difference between taper and parallel tips and believes in 355 the whole tip must be that size.
[QUOTE=”Tenja, post: 11152850, member: 68067″]
I am an absolute novice at this, but I think the important difference in what the last 5 or 6 posts are saying is that you can sand to fit, but only taper the last short portion (3/16″ or ¼”) of the shaft that needs the taper. And not any more. If you are up into the hosel that’s way too far.
This is what I understand anyway, and what I will be doing on the taper tip (edited: rapid taper) shafts that UPS has on their way to my doorstep.
Just have to decide if I “need” to pickup that 30″ belt sander from Harbor Freight or not.
[/QUOTE]
Or course you need that belt sander. Doesn’t everyone.
[QUOTE=”bbutler, post: 11152998, member: 56070″]
Or course you need that belt sander. Doesn’t everyone.
[/QUOTE]
that’s does it, yes, buying it this week.
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11151728, member: 32373″]
This is SO NOT TRUE.
A shaft that is built in a factory to .355 is made on a mandrel. That final taper is not done on the mandrel. The material is run past where the tip would be. It’s cut to size, and then the taper is sanded to finish. It’s like a pencil sharpener. Then the rest of the shaft is sanded to the final size. It then goes to paint. The final finish is applied along with cosmetics. So, a club builder or a consumer is simply doing a process that is done to every single .355 graphite shaft. The taper is very small. 3/16″ is all the taper covers. It goes from .355 to .370 in that space. Remove too much material and get a sloppy fit.. sure you could get a tip failure.
I have never had a customer return with a shaft that broke in the hosel
… Ever.
I have personally converted well over a thousand shafts over the years.
So, your statement is not remotely true.
As for reaming. I prefer not to remove weight from a head. Sure, you can do it, but I prefer converting a shaft to preserve swing weight.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE]
Do you sand in hosel area to scuff paint so epoxy adheres better
[QUOTE=”Tenja, post: 11153005, member: 68067″]
that’s does it, yes, buying it this week.
[/QUOTE]
Have one in my shop in the box just got this exact reason.
[QUOTE=”bbutler, post: 11153006, member: 56070″]
Do you sand in hosel area to scuff paint so epoxy adheres better
[/QUOTE]
Yes the entire shaft area inserted into the hosel is scuffed. I then scuff above the hosel where the ferrule will sit. It helps the ferrule from walking up the shaft, but not fool proof.
When doing a .355 conversion it’s, sand then rotate in hosel. You will see the high spots. Lightly sand the high spots and test again. I like a fit that when dry the head almost sticks to the shaft when fully inserted.
[QUOTE=”bbutler, post: 11153006, member: 56070″]
Do you sand in hosel area to scuff paint so epoxy adheres better
[/QUOTE]
You prep the entire tip section as normal. Only extra material removed beyond that is at the very tip to achieve the 355 diameter.
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11151728, member: 32373″]
This is SO NOT TRUE.
A shaft that is built in a factory to .355 is made on a mandrel. That final taper is not done on the mandrel. The material is run past where the tip would be. It’s cut to size, and then the taper is sanded to finish. It’s like a pencil sharpener. Then the rest of the shaft is sanded to the final size. It then goes to paint. The final finish is applied along with cosmetics. So, a club builder or a consumer is simply doing a process that is done to every single .355 graphite shaft. The taper is very small. 3/16″ is all the taper covers. It goes from .355 to .370 in that space. Remove too much material and get a sloppy fit.. sure you could get a tip failure.
I have never had a customer return with a shaft that broke in the hosel
… Ever.
I have personally converted well over a thousand shafts over the years.
So, your statement is not remotely true.
As for reaming. I prefer not to remove weight from a head. Sure, you can do it, but I prefer converting a shaft to preserve swing weight.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE]
I have not had any issues on my SMS so far but I also haven’t used them for an entire season yet.
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11153029, member: 32373″]
Yes the entire shaft area inserted into the hosel is scuffed. I then scuff above the hosel where the ferrule will sit. It helps the ferrule from walking up the shaft, but not fool proof.
When doing a .355 conversion it’s, sand then rotate in hosel. You will see the high spots. Lightly sand the high spots and test again. I like a fit that when dry the head almost sticks to the shaft when fully inserted.
[/QUOTE]
You might want to tell people how to get a clean ferrule to hosel fit. We’d get the .350 ferrules with a large OD and they’d either look like a “bucket hat” on a .335 hosel or they did some kind of awful sanding/acetone job to eliminate the ridge.
[QUOTE=”Typhoon, post: 11153114, member: 24954″]
You might want to tell people how to get a clean ferrule to hosel fit. We’d get the .350 ferrules with a large OD and they’d either look like a “bucket hat” on a .335 hosel or they did some kind of awful sanding/acetone job to eliminate the ridge.
[/QUOTE]
It’s easy, soak the 355’s in warm/hot water and go straight to the shaft to seat them.
[QUOTE=”Tenja, post: 11153005, member: 68067″]
that’s does it, yes, buying it this week.
[/QUOTE]
Check out the orange one that is sitting next to it with a disc sander on the side. Goes on sale for about the same price as the green one.
Sanded mine down with some 1000 grit boron belts off Amazon. One belt will last barely for a set but it doesn’t remove much at a time, which is nice.
Have fun!
[QUOTE=”J4U, post: 11155959, member: 10934″]
Check out the orange one that is sitting next to it with a disc sander on the side. Goes on sale for about the same price as the green one.
Sanded mine down with some 1000 grit boron belts off Amazon. One belt will last barely for a set but it doesn’t remove much at a time, which is nice.
Have fun!
[/QUOTE]
timely, as I’m going there at lunch time. I was considering one with the side disc. I could see that being handy.
[QUOTE=”J4U, post: 11155959, member: 10934″]
Check out the orange one that is sitting next to it with a disc sander on the side. Goes on sale for about the same price as the green one.
Sanded mine down with some 1000 grit boron belts off Amazon. One belt will last barely for a set but it doesn’t remove much at a time, which is nice.
Have fun!
[/QUOTE]
got a link to the belts you use?
[QUOTE=”Tenja, post: 11155961, member: 68067″]
timely, as I’m going there at lunch time. I was considering one with the side disc. I could see that being handy.
[/QUOTE]
Getting the disc platform square with pad is a pain, but can be done with small washers under the support braces. You’ll understand if you get that one.
Have fun in the toy store!
For Belts they sell what’s called a Linnen belt. It’s perfect for doing hosels.
[QUOTE=”Popeye, post: 11159256, member: 32373″]
For Belts they sell what’s called a Linnen belt. It’s perfect for doing hosels.
[/QUOTE]
Already have one on the way
I can’t remember if I saw this or not in the thread, but how does this 105 shaft compare to the MMT 105?
[QUOTE=”Typhoon, post: 11162777, member: 24954″]
I can’t remember if I saw this or not in the thread, but how does this 105 shaft compare to the MMT 105?
[/QUOTE]
More launch here, similar spin, MMT plays more stout to flex. Much better feel here, also, more ball speed.
Rapid tapers arrived yesterday. Just wanted to add the new graphics make these shafts look VERY good. I am seriously impressed.
[QUOTE=”Jman, post: 11162814, member: 1579″]
More launch here, similar spin, MMT plays more stout to flex. Much better feel here, also, more ball speed.
[/QUOTE]
Thank you Jman! It was what I was hoping to hear based on things I’ve read. I just wanted to ask someone decent who I know has actually hit them both. I like MMT ok, it just doesn’t have a lot of snap to it. Lacking in the feel department as far as what I was hoping to feel. I could use a little higher decent angle because of the lowish spin. Sounds like these would fit the bill. I’ll have to grab one to try.
[QUOTE=”Typhoon, post: 11163290, member: 24954″]Thank you Jman! It was what I was hoping to hear based on things I’ve read. I just wanted to ask someone decent who I know has actually hit them both. I like MMT ok, it just doesn’t have a lot of snap to it. Lacking in the feel department as far as what I was hoping to feel. I could use a little higher decent angle because of the lowish spin. Sounds like these would fit the bill. I’ll have to grab one to try.[/QUOTE]
I too was interested in these vs MMT 105. I haven’t hit them yet but looking at P790 and those are offered.
I’m a recoil guy. I do like these new graphics on the RT quite a bit. I haven’t had an exact like to like experience yet with RT but so far they seemed similar to feel and launch of my recoils. I couldn’t feel much difference. That said the RT shaft I was using was shorter than my recoils.
I picked up a few of the close outs in 95g regular flex. The chart said stiff flex are for 100 mph+ driver speeds and I am at 93-95. I have a couple of expirements to put them in. I picked up a 8-PW ZX7 and I will put at least one in my T100s probably the 7i to get some numbers compared to my ZX5s with Steelfiber.
Santa left me one of these for my 3 iron build! Can’t wait til it’s complete.