Chunkylover77
Proud JakeNation Member
LOL I too have felt the shame of the ripped topper
TaylorMade R11 Driver & Fairway Wood Review Thread
LOL I too have felt the shame of the ripped topper
Mark
Active member
Had two of those today. Nothing like having the best toy on the block and not being able to play. Fixed that issue right quick, unleashed the bombs. Boy-o do these things like to lay the smack down. Today I think I hit my longest shot with a 3w, about 270 with a range ball. I also poked a few drives out there. When hit well the sound and feel are very very pleasant.
Was it worth trading my r9 series, absolutely!!!!
Dent
MIA
Well I just got my wrench in from Breeze and I immediately went to the R11 for some ASP and FCT tweaking. Here are some pictures of the ASP adjustments. I apologize for my bad picture taking but here is a sample at address of open and closed, as you can see there IS a difference.
OPEN
CLOSED
One thing I did notice and am very confused about, is the notches on the R11 Tip. I tried to take a picture but it was too blurry. If you look at the black part of your R11 tip you will notice it Reads. STDLOFT - Blank Notch - LOWER - Black Notch - Blank Notch - Blank Notch - HIGHER - Blank Notch - then back to STDLOFT.
When you remove the head and expose the red part of the tip above STDLOFT it reads RH and then the next Blank Notch is blank on the red part and then LOWER reads -1* LOFT the next blank notch is blank again, and then the next blank notch reads UPRT LIE. This blank notch is the only one that says something on the red part of the tip. When I remove the club and put it back on, the R11 head is actually able to fit on these black notch spots and able to screw into place.
Since there is no reading on them, can someone confirm what exactly these blank ones are doing? I am slightly puzzled as to why there is 3 blank ones in a row as well. Can anyone fill me in on this? I assumed you could only put them on the HIGHER, LOWER, STD. Setting but I was wrong.
OPEN
CLOSED
One thing I did notice and am very confused about, is the notches on the R11 Tip. I tried to take a picture but it was too blurry. If you look at the black part of your R11 tip you will notice it Reads. STDLOFT - Blank Notch - LOWER - Black Notch - Blank Notch - Blank Notch - HIGHER - Blank Notch - then back to STDLOFT.
When you remove the head and expose the red part of the tip above STDLOFT it reads RH and then the next Blank Notch is blank on the red part and then LOWER reads -1* LOFT the next blank notch is blank again, and then the next blank notch reads UPRT LIE. This blank notch is the only one that says something on the red part of the tip. When I remove the club and put it back on, the R11 head is actually able to fit on these black notch spots and able to screw into place.
Since there is no reading on them, can someone confirm what exactly these blank ones are doing? I am slightly puzzled as to why there is 3 blank ones in a row as well. Can anyone fill me in on this? I assumed you could only put them on the HIGHER, LOWER, STD. Setting but I was wrong.
Hole~Out~1983
Active member
Well I just got my wrench in from Breeze and I immediately went to the R11 for some ASP and FCT tweaking. Here are some pictures of the ASP adjustments. I apologize for my bad picture taking but here is a sample at address of open and closed, as you can see there IS a difference.
OPEN
CLOSED
One thing I did notice and am very confused about, is the notches on the R11 Tip. I tried to take a picture but it was too blurry. If you look at the black part of your R11 tip you will notice it Reads. STDLOFT - Blank Notch - LOWER - Black Notch - Blank Notch - Blank Notch - HIGHER - Blank Notch - then back to STDLOFT.
When you remove the head and expose the red part of the tip above STDLOFT it reads RH and then the next Blank Notch is blank on the red part and then LOWER reads -1* LOFT the next blank notch is blank again, and then the next blank notch reads UPRT LIE. This blank notch is the only one that says something on the red part of the tip. When I remove the club and put it back on, the R11 head is actually able to fit on these black notch spots and able to screw into place.
Since there is no reading on them, can someone confirm what exactly these blank ones are doing? I am slightly puzzled as to why there is 3 blank ones in a row as well. Can anyone fill me in on this? I assumed you could only put them on the HIGHER, LOWER, STD. Setting but I was wrong.
I believe it is so you can make adjustments for .5* so pretty much they are just in between adjustments instead of going all the way up to higher or all the way down to lower it allows for minor tweaks.
Dent
MIA
That's what I thought, but there are 3 blank notches in a row so I'm questioning....
STD Loft - 0*
Blank Notch - -.5*
Lower - -1*
Blank Notch - ?
Blank Notch - ? - UPRT LIE
Blank Notch - ?
Higher - +1*
Blank Notch - +.5* ?
maybe I am just not thinking clearly, but I'm still not understanding.
Hole~Out~1983
Active member
Im gonna go grab mine and we'll try and figure this thing out.
Dent
MIA
Thanks hole out, I think with 2 brains we can figure this out.
I edited part of that list as well to show where it says UPRT LIE
Hole~Out~1983
Active member
Ok Dent so the way I would see it is this. You have the three blank notche's between higher and lower with the middle one being the upright lie. So from what I would see is that the blank on the right side of the UPRT Lie would be a higher lofted UPRT and the one the left would be a lower lofted UPRT if that makes sense. I could be wrong but that is the way I am interpreting it.
Dent
MIA
That's what I figured, but what initially does the blank one with UPRT Lie do? Is that a matter of adjusting the lie on the club? I thought FCT was just loft?
Hole~Out~1983
Active member
Yeah because it looks like you would have a higher and lower loft on a standard lie and a higher and lower loft with an upright lie.
Dent
MIA
So what does it do to the club when you said to to UPRT LIE? So what you're saying is you have the ability to set it to UPRT LIE +1 and -1?
Hole~Out~1983
Active member
Yeah you can change the lie angle of the club to upright which decreases the angle between the shaft and the club head. Im not sure that it would be a full degree plus or minus adjustment but yes you can clearly have the club set to an upright lie with some degree of loft adjustment it seems.
Dent
MIA
Jeez that brings a whole new level of customization, is there any reason why I would want an Upright lie or should I just stick with the STD, LOWER, HIGHER settings?
Hole~Out~1983
Active member
I think it would just have to be something you might have to experiment with. Im only 5'8" so for me personally I would not benefit from it because it would probably cause the turf interaction of the club to be too heel dominant for me which would cause problems.
Dent
MIA
I don't think I'll bother either, im 2" taller so I don't see any benefit either. Thanks for the confirmation though dude.
10YardDraw
Ex Club Ho
I use to use the Upright lie on my supertri since im 6'0-6'1 and actually liked it allot, it was Neutral Upright Right which was -.5 loft and upright lie, it is 1* im pretty sure. It also helped me take the right side of the course out of play, easier to draw a upright club than a flatter one
Hole~Out~1983
Active member
To add to that though imo opening the face of the club has the effect of putting the toe of the club closer to the ground. So if you like an open face but find that your getting a little to much turf interaction with the toe of the club you could change it to an upright lie to possibly counter that affect.
Mardin
New member
TaylorMade Drivers getting some press in USA Today
TaylorMade Drivers getting some press in USA Today
http://www.usatoday.com/sports/golf/2011-03-24-taylormade-r11-driver_N.htm
TaylorMade Drivers getting some press in USA Today
http://www.usatoday.com/sports/golf/2011-03-24-taylormade-r11-driver_N.htm
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Great little article !! Thanks !
10YardDraw
Ex Club Ho
Very Cool, thanks for the link, i saw it on facebook but didnt want to open it on my phone lol
10YardDraw
Ex Club Ho
Update- I mentioned that i had to use longer tee's with the R11 than i did with the Supertri, well i decided to take a closer look and i guess i had a brain fart or something and i bought 2" instead of the 2 3/4 i played all last year lol, so the same tee's will work i just bought the wrong ones! I measured them and felt like a idiot after i did:clown:
TC
Keg Thrower
Dent, you mentioned that your Ping's are flatter than standard, if I remember correctly? You probably wouldn't want to use the upright lie if I'm correct.
tapatalk: even available for lefties!
Dent
MIA
Staples
Dirtydawg67
Taylormade R11 T3
I played a few more holes yesterday evening with the T3 and took a few pictures. I was trying to capture the ball against the face to show how shallow it is. The T3 does not look like your conventional strong 3 wood. I have been working on trying to keep my spine angle to get some launch on the ball and I have been getting better each time I take it to the course. The fairways are still dormant and fairly tight, but I have still managed to strike the ball well. I am looking forward to warmer weather and the grass to start growing so I can see how the T3 acts off of a lush fairway.
The white crown against the black face is making alignment much easier. With the R9 I was spraying balls either left or right most of the time, but the T3 has gone relatively straight. I really feel like this is due to me knowing exactly where I am aiming. The white seems to calm me and I can really focus on what I am trying to do. It also helps that I have been hitting the T3 better than my R9 from the turf. I always had some form of doubt when I tried hitting the R9 from the fairway, but this hasn't been the case with the T3.
We received some more rain today (I think we have had 6"+ of rain in the past 2 weeks) so I didn't head to the course/range this evening. I plan to head back there tomorrow evening and then play again Saturday before the next rain system moves through. I should have some more info later this weekend.
The setup looks very similar to the R9 3 wood.
I played a few more holes yesterday evening with the T3 and took a few pictures. I was trying to capture the ball against the face to show how shallow it is. The T3 does not look like your conventional strong 3 wood. I have been working on trying to keep my spine angle to get some launch on the ball and I have been getting better each time I take it to the course. The fairways are still dormant and fairly tight, but I have still managed to strike the ball well. I am looking forward to warmer weather and the grass to start growing so I can see how the T3 acts off of a lush fairway.
The white crown against the black face is making alignment much easier. With the R9 I was spraying balls either left or right most of the time, but the T3 has gone relatively straight. I really feel like this is due to me knowing exactly where I am aiming. The white seems to calm me and I can really focus on what I am trying to do. It also helps that I have been hitting the T3 better than my R9 from the turf. I always had some form of doubt when I tried hitting the R9 from the fairway, but this hasn't been the case with the T3.
We received some more rain today (I think we have had 6"+ of rain in the past 2 weeks) so I didn't head to the course/range this evening. I plan to head back there tomorrow evening and then play again Saturday before the next rain system moves through. I should have some more info later this weekend.
The setup looks very similar to the R9 3 wood.
10YardDraw
Ex Club Ho
Nice DD, how is that performing off dead grass? That is the one area i had some problems with the hybrid, it goes through the ground so well it was just cutting through the dead grass to easy and i was hitting it fat out of it.