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New Iron Lofts and Wedges

SuperStroke
Rob Wedge

Rob Wedge

Jersey
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I was putting together a set last night just to kill time and got stuck at wedges with the Cobra AMP Cells . With the faces being so hot and the lofts jacked up I just had no clue where to start with them. I would stay with the AMP wedges but I much prefer a more "Blade" style wedge over a cavity. Like, it you're hitting your PW (44*) with the AMPs say, 145yards, then I would think to keep the yardage gaps accurate you would need a gap wedge in a more traditional wedge that was closer to a 9 iron? I hit traditional lofted 9 iron 135 so is that the loft Wedge I would get? MY HEAD IS SPINNING!
 
I am excited to hear how people have handled this as I will likely be going to a 44* PW this year and seeing a 2 club difference from my current sticks.
 
NJRob said:
I was putting together a set last night just to kill time and got stuck at wedges with the Cobra AMP Cells . With the faces being so hot and the lofts jacked up I just had no clue where to start with them. I would stay with the AMP wedges but I much prefer a more "Blade" style wedge over a cavity. Like, it you're hitting your PW (44*) with the AMPs say, 145yards, then I would think to keep the yardage gaps accurate you would need a gap wedge in a more traditional wedge that was closer to a 9 iron? I hit traditional lofted 9 iron 135 so is that the loft Wedge I would get? MY HEAD IS SPINNING!
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First off, don't worry about the loft on the irons. Only worry about what loft of wedges will properly fill the gaps. They're jacked up, that's today's standard loft for GI irons. One of the down sides to modern GI irons being so much longer is that is hurts your wedge setup if you want traditional blade wedges. best thing you can do is find a combo that works by experimenting. If that means a 46-47* gap wedge, go for it.
 
I would disregard the number on the iron. And focus on the loft of the club, for gapping considerations at least.
 
NJRob said:
I was putting together a set last night just to kill time and got stuck at wedges with the Cobra AMP Cells . With the faces being so hot and the lofts jacked up I just had no clue where to start with them. I would stay with the AMP wedges but I much prefer a more "Blade" style wedge over a cavity. Like, it you're hitting your PW (44*) with the AMPs say, 145yards, then I would think to keep the yardage gaps accurate you would need a gap wedge in a more traditional wedge that was closer to a 9 iron? I hit traditional lofted 9 iron 135 so is that the loft Wedge I would get? MY HEAD IS SPINNING!
Click to expand...

This is why most new sets are coming in 4-AW. Though, for my Rocketbladez which game with a 50 degree AW, I find that I was OK with taking it out of the bag and playing the PW (which i hit 145-150) and my 52* 588, which I hit about 125-30.

It is really a matter of personal preference and what you want your gaps to be and the versatility of each club.
 
If you're going to be buying the irons then I'd wait 'til I got them in hand and see how far I hit them before I bought any wedges. I know with my irons I got the set gap wedge (at 50°) and then use traditional blade wedges from there. I have essentially taken my 4i out and added more wedges based on the juiced up lofts and greater need at the bottom of the bag.
 
What have people found that work for them?
 
Howzat said:
What have people found that work for them?
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When I was testing the RocketBladez I found I would need a 51* "G"W. The reason I'll never move to bulky long GI irons is they go too far. I need two wedges between the PW and SW with them which I do not like.
 
Tape over the AW and get a black marker and mark it PW. Do that all the way down to the 4, and mark it as a 3 iron. Now you are where you were 10 years ago, with 3-PW! Really, like others have said, disregard the numbers on the bottom. Go out, figure out what you are hitting with that club, and then put a piece of tape around the shaft right past the grip, marking the yardage. Use that as your guide to club selection. I do that with my wedges through my hybrids. I read about that in short game bible and it works for me!
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I went on SCORs site and did a fitting with the old AMPS which have the same lofts as the new Cells. Heres what I got.
Based off the 8 iron being a 35* 43° 47° 51° 55° 59°
8* gap between an 8 iron and 9 just seems so odd to me.

And with only 4 SCOR clubs

44° 49° 54° 59°
 
GPNgolf said:
Tape over the AW and get a black marker and mark it PW. Do that all the way down to the 4, and mark it as a 3 iron. Now you are where you were 10 years ago, with 3-PW! Really, like others have said, disregard the numbers on the bottom. Go out, figure out what you are hitting with that club, and then put a piece of tape around the shaft right past the grip, marking the yardage. Use that as your guide to club selection. I do that with my wedges through my hybrids. I read about that in short game bible and it works for me!
Click to expand...

After reading Peltz's short game book I did the same thing. Going to be a pain going back and doing it all over again for the new wedge setup.
 
Considering the AMP Cell's go PW 44*, G 49*, S 56*, L 59* I would think with "traditional wedges" you would want to tighten the gap between your irons and wedges from these specs. The composition of the head in the short irons changes possibly in order to combat this issue?

[h=3]HEAD MATERIAL[/h]
  • 3-7 irons: 431ss body plasma welded to a high strength 17-4ss face, 8-LW: 1-pc 431ss
 
Depends on how you play your wedges. You like to take full swings with everything?

My old CG16s were strong lofted with the PW at 44˚, no set GW offered. So when I was fit for them, the fitter set me up with a 48˚ CG16 wedge (I see what you did there Cleveland) as well. From there, I went 54/60. At this point in my game, I was more comfortable taking full swings than partials, so I eventually went 48/52/56/60. As you can imagine, this makes for a bottom heavy bag, but I was and still am convinced that it was the best plan at the time.

Then last year I decided to drop my 60 in favor of a FW. I also began practicing my wedge shots and became much more confortable with partial swings and 'feeling' distances inside of my full swing 56. As the year rolled on I started to notice that I almost never hit my 52˚, but I hit partial shots with my 48˚ all the time. When I decided to go with a new wedge, I opted for a 50/56 combo and have been there ever since. My full swing distances are as follows (roughly):

9I - 140ish
PW - 130ish
50˚ - 100-110
56˚ - 80-90

I've been very much enjoying this setup as my standard layup attempt is 100 out. This allows me to usually take a pretty full 50˚ swing if I pull it off properly, though if I overcook it, I'm comfortable playing the 50˚ down into the 80s. Anything inside of 80 is usually a 56˚ unless I need to keep it low or hit a long running chip or something.

I've kept the same wedge setup with the move to the i20s, which have a 46˚ PW. I actually hit the i20s pretty dang close to the same distances as the CG16s. Moral of the story (for me anyways) is to worry about distances vs. loft. Hope that helps.
 
Great info JonD, thanks.
 
Yeah, a PING S56 7 iron that I hit was going almost as far as the standard Cobra AMP iron. However, I had graphite in the AMP, so it might have balloned a bit. Still, worry about diastance more than loft. I can hit a 10 degree driver further than a 10 degree iron, I guarantee you
 
Personaly I like to get the gap wedge with the set usually at 50* then find the distance gap I'm comfortable with. I have gone 50, 52, 56 and now I'm at 50, 54, 58. Look at the distance you want to hit not the loft or number on the club. Just what works for me, good luck man.
 
To get around this I had my Rbladez bent 1* weak so my PW is 46 then i 52, 56, 60
My PW goes 135
52 120
56 110
60 80-100
 
Thats some good info Dan. My wedge game is my strong part. Its was keeps me in the mid 80's so I just don't want to screw that part of my game up.
 
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