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Cutting Down A Driver Shaft

Nippon Shafts
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Guy In Lyon

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If I get a new driver with the "standard" 45.5 inch shaft (graphite, senior flex) can I just take the grip off, hacksaw off 2 inches, and then take in in to have a new grip installed or is there some special "magic" to cutting down a graphite shaft? TIA.
 
Guy In Lyon said:
If I get a new driver with the "standard" 45.5 inch shaft (graphite, senior flex) can I just take the grip off, hacksaw off 2 inches, and then take in in to have a new grip installed or is there some special "magic" to cutting down a graphite shaft? TIA.
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Not in the cutting part. But, you're going to lose a ton of swing weight with two inches removed. You would be loosing about 12 swing weight points. So the club could potentially feel really really light through the swing. But, you may not notice or care. Hypothetically, the shaft could possibly play stiffer as well. But, I don't know how much stock there is in that thought.
 
radiman said:
Not in the cutting part. But, you're going to lose a ton of swing weight with two inches removed. You would be loosing about 12 swing weight points. So the club could potentially feel really really light through the swing. But, you may not notice or care. Hypothetically, the shaft could possibly play stiffer as well. But, I don't know how much stock there is in that thought.
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I read about that and was thinking about getting a few replacement weights for the head. Is there a formula to figure out how much weight to add to compensate for a shorter shaft or is it just buy a variety and try each one to see what feels right?
 
Guy In Lyon said:
I read about that and was thinking about getting a few replacement weights for the head. Is there a formula to figure out how much weight to add to compensate for a shorter shaft or is it just buy a variety and try each one to see what feels right?
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I want to say it's 2 grams for one swing weight point. Just a starting point. Balance point in shafts and grip weight can effect that as well. Getting all of that swing weight back by adding 24 grams isn't really feasible. So, I wouldn't go in thinking you need to go crazy. But, just be prepared to maybe add a little bit of weight back if you can't feel the club head through the swing. Everyone is different though and it may not be something you notice. The static weight of the club won't drastically change all that much. If you're hitting it well after cutting it down, just leave it.
 
So cutting the shaft will indeed drop you 12SW's which is a large amount. I had also read that roughly 2g increases 1sw. However, I had 2 weight kits show last week for 2 different drivers. In both cases, I added 5g of weight and in both cases SW increased roughly 4pts. Both drivers are 44.25inch total club length. my scale is not digital so my measurements are not perfect.

Typically I cut the shaft down 1 inch (6sw) and change the grip to a WINN DRi-Tac lite which is a 23g grip. Standard grip is 50 grams. The lighter grip increases SW by 1 point every 4g lost. So (50-23)/ 4 = 6.75sw.

In your case, you may need to add headweights and go to a light weight grip
 
Guy In Lyon said:
I read about that and was thinking about getting a few replacement weights for the head. Is there a formula to figure out how much weight to add to compensate for a shorter shaft or is it just buy a variety and try each one to see what feels right?
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2g added or taken away from the head is approx 1 swing weight point.

Keep in mind if you add a bunch of weight to the head the shaft is going to now play weaker. So you may want to have the shaft tipped to compensate. This is why 3woods and fairway wood shafts are tipped cause their heads are heavier than a driver head is.

Other options is to add a heavier weight shaft so that you don’t need to add as much weight to the head. about 9g of shaft weight is about 1 SW point. Also lighter grips are swing weight back and Vice versa. Heavier grips reduce swing weight.

As already mentioned some are sensitive to swing weight loss. Others aren’t. Best thing to do is put some masking tape on the grip so that you have to choke down. Try it at the range and if things are ok you might be ok with just lopping 2” off.

Also note that for some, shortening a club 2” is going to reduce your swing speed (not as big of arc). For some though a shorter club could result in more confidence and thus a faster pass at the ball. Also more centered contact will result in more ballspeed vs being all over the face with a faster swing and longer club.

So there is a lot to consider here.

I played the shorter driver game for about 2 years. I finally gave up and now play mine at a finished length of 45” which depending on the oem ususlly is around a manageable D0/D1 swing weight.
 
If you want to see how the club will feel before you start cutting things, just grip down those 2 inches and hit the club. The SW change will be very close to what you will see from cutting it. Of course the grip will be smaller so just be aware of that. After you cut it, I would just get some lead tape and go to the range. Start hitting it and adding tape until you get a consistent strike pattern and ball flight. At that point you can buy OEM or aftermarket weights to hit that number or keep the tape or a combo of both.
 
The best way to tell is with a swing weight scale, or find someone that has one. Sometimes the calcs are a bit off on the charts, but at least a scale gives you a baseline.
 
JB said:
While simplistic, that does not take into account that shaft weight can be placed in different areas.
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Cool. OP is going to "hacksaw off 2 inches". Simplistic seemed fitting.
 
bueshy said:
Cool. OP is going to "hacksaw off 2 inches". Simplistic seemed fitting.
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OP is asking if going the hacksaw route is an okay idea.
Asking before doing seems like a good idea.
 
Why not just choke up 2 inches?
 
My recommendation, get a reputable professional to cut down and install correct grip/weights to get to your desired swing weight or order direct from OEM at desired length. They should adjust at factory to desired SW.
 
Guy In Lyon said:
OP is asking if going the hacksaw route is an okay idea.
Asking before doing seems like a good idea.
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I know opinions will vary, but I would not go the hacksaw route. I like to use power tools that will make a clean and precise cut.
 
I use a hacksaw with fine blade. I tape and mark the shaft with masking tape. I also have my kids help me hold the shaft from moving on my work bench.
 
Hacksaws are fine if you use a very fine tooth blade. I have a cut off wheel, but also use a hobby saw with a fine blade. Tape the shaft and go easy and nothing to it. I also take my belt sander and smooth off a tad if needed.
 
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