How good are cheap clubs? Like $150 cheap.

millsan1

I've figured this game out! Oh wait, no I haven't
Joined
Jul 16, 2018
Messages
3,493
Reaction score
2,687
Location
Eastern PA
Handicap
14?
As you all probably know, non golfers will frequently ask why we get such expensive gear. We reflexively answer, in some flavor, that "Good equipment is better".

When I started 3 years ago, I had recent vintage, new, GI clubs and have played good equipment since then. I do not have anything to compare "Good" vs "budget" equipment to.

To that end, I've been toying with the idea of buying a cheap starter set and gaming it, just to see the difference.

As some know, in the last 3 years, I've worked on my game, and have played myself to a reasonable handicap. I hit the course expecting mid 80s, and can shoot lower and higher, but the average is pretty good.

So now I feel like I am competent enough to give my experiment a try.

Thanks to the Budget Golf super coupon last week, I purchased the cheapest set they had.


With coupon, grand total of $150.

Comes with a Driver, 3W, Hybrid 6-PW and a putter.



Received them yesterday, and today, at lunch, took them to the range.

I opened the box, took off all the plastic, and had an LOL moment when I noticed the driver has "forged" stamped on it.

Anyway. Bought a bucket of balls, and went to it. A few warm up swings with the PW, and off to the races.


The first thing I noticed was the PW and iron heads are HUGE, at least compared to my Apex irons. It was like looking down at a shovel. The grips have an alignment ridge, which I thought a pretty nice touch.

I hit some PW-7I and TBH, these clubs strike pretty well. Certainly they are shorter than my clubs of the same numbers, but the feel was OK and the ball flight was pretty darn good. Interestingly, I was hitting a beautiful draw with all the irons, which is not standard for me. Using the ranged targets and comparing to my averages in my Garmin, the clubs were consistently about 10-15 yards shorter, but worked fine.

Pulled out the hybrid. Hitting off the mat, no issues striking the ball and getting it up. Again, consistently 10-15 shorter than my norm.

Pull the 3W, to hit off the deck, and this is where a little gap started to form. The shafts are pretty flexy, even for my moderate swing speed (low 90s with driver). The 3W struck fine, but was push fading. I adjusted for that, slowed down a touch and was able to put it out there. Here, there was a bigger gap. My 4W is my 200 club. This 3W was 180 at best.

Finally pulled driver. The flex issue really reared its' ugly head. Totally opening at full swing, and developing a beautiful slice. Again, I adjusted my swing, and address to compensate, and the flight was fine. Flew just like my Maverik and F9, just lower and not as far nor as high. This one was a solid 25+ yards shy of my normal drives.

BUT, all in all, I can play with these. I am very confident I can put up a sub 90. We shall see. I think Sunday will be a golf day, and if so, these will be gamed.
 
Last edited:
This is a really cool idea. Does it make any mention of the flex anywhere?
 
This is interesting! Good idea!

"Good quality is not necessarily high quality." _ W Edwards Deming

1600888315267.png
 
This is a really cool idea. Does it make any mention of the flex anywhere?
No, not that I could see. But I can play around it. Basically closing the face at address, and swinging a little easier.
 
Cool idea, very interested in how these work for an experienced player.

A friend of mine recently bought a boxed set of amazon. I had told him I would help him find name brand used clubs but he wanted to get something new. Prior to this year he played once or twice a year and shoots around 100 with a decent swing. He is noticeably shorter with the new clubs and slicing a lot more often and getting frustrated. The driver broke the second time out. He replaced it with a used RBZ and saw a pretty quick improvement with a 10 year old used namebrand club.
 
Finally pulled driver. The flex issue really reared its' ugly head. Totally opening at full swing, and developing a beautiful slice.
Interesting. That sounds like what I may be experiencing with my Walter Hagen T3 driver. When I hit it well, or what I think is well, it's slice city. I mostly got my slice out of my irons weeks ago, and don't slice like that with my woods.

Again, I adjusted my swing, and address to compensate, and the flight was fine.
Would that I were experienced enough to be able to do that.

I had a running debate with one of my best friends. (Sadly, gone these three years.) His position was, being a weekend warrior tool user it made no sense to spend extra for higher-quality tools. My argument was less ability demanded better tools. E.g.: The guy that built our stick-built shed could do amazing things with a lash-up jig, or even freehand, with his beat up old 7-1/4 in. circular saw. Things that take me my sliding table compound miter saw or table saw to replicate.

It's been suggested by one or two posters to my "Conflicted" thread the same may be true of golf clubs?
 
Cool idea, very interested in how these work for an experienced player.

A friend of mine recently bought a boxed set of amazon. I had told him I would help him find name brand used clubs but he wanted to get something new. Prior to this year he played once or twice a year and shoots around 100 with a decent swing. He is noticeably shorter with the new clubs and slicing a lot more often and getting frustrated. The driver broke the second time out. He replaced it with a used RBZ and saw a pretty quick improvement with a 10 year old used namebrand club.
Did he hit it off of a patio paver?

This is pretty cool. I'm interested in seeing the on the course results.
 
This is interesting! Good idea!

"Good quality is not necessarily high quality." _ W Edwards Deming

View attachment 8964957
Whats wrong with trader joe wines? I thought it was pretty good and no hangover when I bought a few bottles lol


But hey, the kirkland goofball were pretty good for the price, so sometimes budget stuff works out!
 
Interesting. That sounds like what I may be experiencing with my Walter Hagen T3 driver. When I hit it well, or what I think is well, it's slice city. I mostly got my slice out of my irons weeks ago, and don't slice like that with my woods.


Would that I were experienced enough to be able to do that.

I had a running debate with one of my best friends. (Sadly, gone these three years.) His position was, being a weekend warrior tool user it made no sense to spend extra for higher-quality tools. My argument was less ability demanded better tools. E.g.: The guy that built our stick-built shed could do amazing things with a lash-up jig, or even freehand, with his beat up old 7-1/4 in. circular saw. Things that take me my sliding table compound miter saw or table saw to replicate.

It's been suggested by one or two posters to my "Conflicted" thread the same may be true of golf clubs?

Sorry about your friend. I think you were both right. To your point, to build your best shed as a DIYer, you need the benefits of a sliding compound miter saw - sort of the super game improvement version of a power saw. To your friend's point, If you are going to undertake such a project once or very infrequently, it probably doesn't affect the quality of your work all that much if your sliding compound miter saw is a Milwaukee from Home Depot or a Chicago Electric form Harbor Freight. Use the saw for ten hours weekly for three years? Different story.
 
Whats wrong with trader joe wines? I thought it was pretty good and no hangover when I bought a few bottles lol


But hey, the kirkland goofball were pretty good for the price, so sometimes budget stuff works out!


My point exactly. Deming's other famous quote was "Quality is fitness for use." Sometimes low price means good quality, and TJ's wines are a terrific value. Some items, and you cited two, punch above their weights on the bang for the buck scale. It wouldn't be served at a state dinner, but it's a very drinkable wine to my unsophisticated palate.
 
They don’t say Northwestern on them do they, lol.

My first set was a starter set from Walmart. They didn’t last long, I learned to swing hard a long time before I learned golf so I probably was in the 125-130 CHS range as an 18 year old. When I dabbled in long drive a few years later I was in the low 140’s.

At any rate, the driver, 3w, and 5w didn’t survive a season. The irons, I only recall breaking one of them but they were terrible.

I retooled as soon as I could afford it and bought decent gear. I usually am a generation or three back, but it’s all decent quality.

Interested in your score Sunday. It’ll be fun to see if you can make the same corrections on the course as you did on the range. Luck!
 
Fun experiment! I recently put together a bag of clubs for my girlfriend—actually her Rogue Draw Driver just showed up and I really want to leave to get it. She had been using her sister’s Wilson complete set that was about 10 years old. Well the GF hit them pretty darn well. When we were on the range testing her new clubs, I tried her Wilson driver. Shorter, lighter, and WAY whippier shaft than what I’m used to, but with one swing I nutted it, and it got out there pretty darn good. She just looked at me curiously, and before she could say anything, I jumped in and said, “no, I need high end clubs because I rarely find the center like I did just there” haha. Those clubs can work though.
 
Driver shaft can be an issue though. My son was using an older TM Speed something or other driver with a stock regular shaft and having a hard time keeping it on the planet. I got a new driver and gave him my Rogue with a stiff Evenflow Blue in it and his driving became much more consistent. For driver I do think that the shaft is much more important than it can be for irons.
 
Driver shaft can be an issue though. My son was using an older TM Speed something or other driver with a stock regular shaft and having a hard time keeping it on the planet. I got a new driver and gave him my Rogue with a stiff Evenflow Blue in it and his driving became much more consistent. For driver I do think that the shaft is much more important than it can be for irons.

I concur. I have played R flex in steel shafted irons for years. If anything they lower flight (good for me) by delofting some by lag created. I hit them better than with a stouter shaft.

I try to pull that off with a driver? Lol. Doesn’t work so well.
 
Did he hit it off of a patio paver?

This is pretty cool. I'm interested in seeing the on the course results.
I'm not sure exactly how it happened, it was a small fracture in the shaft that he was able to play with for the rest of the round. He misses fat sometimes and hits the ground which is probably what caused it.
 
Cool experiment. You'll probably shoot a good score with those. Interested to know the results
 
I saw a YouTube video that Rick Shiels did a while back where he did this too, and the results were surprising.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Glad to see you started this thread, it's already an interesting read just with your first experience with them. (y)
 
Front 9 from the forward tees, 39. Putter is horrible, drivers and 3W are whippy and spicy, but irons work. I usually play whites on this course, but paired with 3 old guys, so here we are
 
Although I think most golf items are over priced just because they're "golf items", I have a few times bought $99-$139 sets of clubs. I needed a set of clubs, because my regular gamers were a few thousand miles a way.

These were complete sets that included a putter, and a bag.

I can honestly say the quality was not there when compared to my regular gamers. Both distance, and accuracy suffered. That said, the cheapie clubs were playable, and served their purpose for me. I was about 5-8 strokes worse with the cheap stuff.

Now, on one occasion, I purchased a woman's set of clubs, on clearance for $70. Shot a 78, and an 80 with them. Go figure.

I bought the woman's clubs with the intent of giving them to my niece who was just getting started with the game.

I think for the golfer who plays just a few times a year, just for the fun of it, with little regards for their scores, less expensive clubs will work just fine.
 
I always figure I can buy top-of-the-line equipment that is a just few years old for the same (or even lower) price as a new, inferior product.

If pros and the best amateurs (notwithstanding the fact that pro gear can be far different than off-the-rack) used these clubs only a few years ago, they still have to be ranked very high re: performance and quality.

My experience with the boxed sets is that they are crap. I would suggest to even the greenest golf beginner to invest in older, top-of-the-line clubs; eBay has thousands of them.
 
Back 9 put up a 44, total 83.

Played from forward tees, so take that fwiw.

Final decision:

You can play these clubs. The driver and putter are the biggest hurts. Driver was really hard to control with the weak shaft.

The putter is just a chunk of metal, and really sends the ball with no feel. The irons played just fine.

Not sure I'm going to game them again, but I played a reasonable round with a set of clubs that cost less than a good wedge.
 
Back 9 put up a 44, total 83.

Played from forward tees, so take that fwiw.

Final decision:

You can play these clubs. The driver and putter are the biggest hurts. Driver was really hard to control with the weak shaft.

The putter is just a chunk of metal, and really sends the ball with no feel. The irons played just fine.

Not sure I'm going to game them again, but I played a reasonable round with a set of clubs that cost less than a good wedge.
A fun experiment for sure.
 
I'm offering these up to anyone else who wants to try the experiment. Free. Just commit to playing one round with them and then pass them on to someone else or a new golfer or whatever.
 
Back
Top