I seriously admire what your doing here. I would like to reshaft some clubs some day, but am a bit stand offish right now with my lack of knowledge. Nice job though by the way!
Learning to Re-shaft Clubs at Home
- Thread starter
- #27
I appreciate the kind words. I'm not the handiest person in the world, so I can relate to your reluctance. I don't want to spend the money on all the tools that are probably necessary to do this correctly, but the existing club work was so bad, I'm not sure it mattered. As you can tell in the posts above, the folks here have been quite helpful. Swing weight remains a mystery to me and I haven't done anything with that. From what I've read, it has something to do with creating a consistent feel of the club head throughout the set. I'm sure it's necessary, but it requires a scale and the knowledge of when to add them. As @JonD mentioned, I can always add some lead tape once I learn a bit more.
As it turned out, the project has been a success so far. I cut the shafts down this morning, blew some grips on, and took some full swings. The epoxy seems to have set ok and I like the budget shafts I put on. I don't know if epoxy failure can occur later (???) but it was a satisfying result.
Regarding the length.... Forgive me if I use the wrong terminology, but the lie on these Mizuno heads are flatter than others. When I was originally fitted, I was hitting on the toe side of the sole - something like 1.5°. Instead of bending the cast heads, the fitter increased the shaft length something like .5" more than the set standard. In addition to the flatter-than-normal lie angles, the standard club length of these is shorter than some other manufacturers. So if I'm understanding this (and I may have it completely wrong) it was kind of a double-whammy in regards to my swing and static measurements (t-rex arms). When I cut these two shafts, I went by the Maltby lengths and added .25" beyond Mizuno's standard length...
Mizuno 850 Specs:
Maltby specs:
Here are the finished clubs:
Well done man, very nice!
- Thread starter
- #29
I finished the rest of the set this evening and took some swings into the net... no flying club heads to report. The project was a lot of fun and I'm pretty happy with the results.
1. Measuring and trimming the shafts was kind of a pain. I liked using the pipe cutter because of how clean and accurate it was, but it took forever. So I put a cutting disc on an old table saw and used that. While much faster, those cuts required cleanup with a file and I didn't like the lack of control. Not sure if the rpms are too low on a table saw compared to that of a grinder????
I'm leaning towards buying a larger, higher quality pipe cutter for any future clubs.
2. I'm really second-guessing my decision to not worry about swing weight prior to putting the heads on. The more I read about this, the easier it is to understand the concept. I don't even need a swing weight scale as there are online calculators that can help determine swing weight with just a kitchen scale and ruler.
I watched a THP video on swing weight and the idea is that I should measure the swing weight of the club I hit the best, then adjust the weight of the others in the set to match it. At this point, I'll have to use lead tape to add or subtract throughout the set.
My next project involves a new 6 iron head matched up with a Nippon N.S. Pro 8950GH shaft. The plan is to compare this club to the 6i from my Mizuno set. If I like it more, there may be more club making in my future.
I can't help but feel like I'm going down a series of rabbit holes with this hobby. Even though she's very supportive, I recognize that look of concern on my wife's face.
Spring can't get here fast enough.
1. Measuring and trimming the shafts was kind of a pain. I liked using the pipe cutter because of how clean and accurate it was, but it took forever. So I put a cutting disc on an old table saw and used that. While much faster, those cuts required cleanup with a file and I didn't like the lack of control. Not sure if the rpms are too low on a table saw compared to that of a grinder????
I'm leaning towards buying a larger, higher quality pipe cutter for any future clubs.
2. I'm really second-guessing my decision to not worry about swing weight prior to putting the heads on. The more I read about this, the easier it is to understand the concept. I don't even need a swing weight scale as there are online calculators that can help determine swing weight with just a kitchen scale and ruler.
I watched a THP video on swing weight and the idea is that I should measure the swing weight of the club I hit the best, then adjust the weight of the others in the set to match it. At this point, I'll have to use lead tape to add or subtract throughout the set.
My next project involves a new 6 iron head matched up with a Nippon N.S. Pro 8950GH shaft. The plan is to compare this club to the 6i from my Mizuno set. If I like it more, there may be more club making in my future.
I can't help but feel like I'm going down a series of rabbit holes with this hobby. Even though she's very supportive, I recognize that look of concern on my wife's face.
Spring can't get here fast enough.
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Good thread and good job on your build. I am feeling inspired over here.
I finished the rest of the set this evening and took some swings into the net... no flying club heads to report. The project was a lot of fun and I'm pretty happy with the results.
1. Measuring and trimming the shafts was kind of a pain. I liked using the pipe cutter because of how clean and accurate it was, but it took forever. So I put a cutting disc on an old table saw and used that. While much faster, those cuts required cleanup with a file and I didn't like the lack of control. Not sure if the rpms are too low on a table saw compared to that of a grinder????
I'm leaning towards buying a larger, higher quality pipe cutter for any future clubs.
2. I'm really second-guessing my decision to not worry about swing weight prior to putting the heads on. The more I read about this, the easier it is to understand the concept. I don't even need a swing weight scale as there are online calculators that can help determine swing weight with just a kitchen scale and ruler.
I watched a THP video on swing weight and the idea is that I should measure the swing weight of the club I hit the best, then adjust the weight of the others in the set to match it. At this point, I'll have to use lead tape to add or subtract throughout the set.
My next project involves a new 6 iron head matched up with a Nippon N.S. Pro 8950GH shaft. The plan is to compare this club to the 6i from my Mizuno set. If I like it more, there may be more club making in my future.
I can't help but feel like I'm going down a series of rabbit holes with this hobby. Even though she's very supportive, I recognize that look of concern on my wife's face.
1. Definitely get a better pipe cutter. Doesn't need to be super fancy but not one of those little ones that are just big enough to get the job done. Makes the cuts much more cleanly and should only take a few series of a turns tightening as you go. I use a dremel cutoff wheel for graphite shaft trimming. For steel though if you stick to the mechanical pipe cutter, you shouldn't need as much cleanup.
2. First set of irons I reshafted, I did swing weight after the fact and I'm glad I did. Allowed me to find a weight I really like, which was luckily the most head heavy iron in the set. I would recommend at least a cheap swing weight scale. I have this one: https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-economy-swingweight-scale/p/vswc/ . Makes getting the SWs as close as possible a little easier. Especially since yours will probably be a bit all over the place. Make sure the table/bench you use it on is level and it should be close enough for government work.
If you do decide on a SW and one/some of your irons is already heavier than that, you can remove the grip and add lead tape to the butt to lower the SW points. As you've already found out it's definitely a little bit of a rabbit hole, but it's a fun one. I've also found that I'm more OCD about appearance than some of the fitters around here, so I prefer the look when I do it myself. Enjoy!
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- #36
Thanks for the advice @JonD. I did price pipe cutters and the one I have is for copper. They make some for thin steel tubing which I think would be ideal. I will definitely invest the $25 for one of those if I continue to work on this. Same with a swing weight scale. I just want to make sure it's a hobby I won't get bored with after this winter.
BTW, I think being OCD is important when it comes to this stuff. Unfortunately, I need to be a bit more conscientious when it comes to details.
I weighed and measured my set this morning. I haven't yet bought a swing weight scale but there's a calculator that will give that if you weigh the entire club and then measure the balance point from the butt. This is what I came up with...
Not sure how accurate this is. If I measured them again, I'd probably come up with slightly different numbers. It doesn't seem to take much to change the swing weight significantly. The gap wedge is high because it is close to the same length as the PW. Was supposed to be .25" shorter, but I think it's closer to .125".
My plan for this upcoming season is to leave the 4i and 5i out of the bag. I have a 4h that I hit about the same distance as a decent 5i swing, and am waiting for a new 3h to arrive.
As for the wedges, I almost never take a full swing with these clubs so I'm unsure what how the heavier swing weight will matter. But I have the lead tape and will experiment by applying it to the butts as you've suggested. I think I read where a lot is needed to counter the weight????
Just for grins, here are the graphite shafted clubs in my bag (I did not re-shaft these clubs)...
Of these clubs, I have the most confidence in the 5w. In fact, that may be my favorite club in the entire bag.