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Bridgestone JGR Irons Preview

SuperStroke
baddog said:
Recent posts are missing the point on JGR Hybrid Forged on iron numbering, lofts and shaft lengths.

The number one thing is the JDM iron numbering. This is how they like their numbering in Japan and Bridgestone refuses to have alternate stamping for other markets like the USA. I never thought this would bother me, but I continue to find it irksome. If Mizuno can alternate market stamp, no reason Bridgestone cannot do it either. So a 7 is a 6 on USA scale.

So first, compare your JGR HFs 7 iron to your 6 iron, not your 7. That's a 1/2" of shaft difference and a few degrees of loft right there. Beyond that, in comparison to my JPX EZ Forged (which would no longer be considered strong lofted), the lofts are generally stronger still and the shafts at least a 1/4" longer. My JGR 9 is almost a JPX 7 in loft, and my PW1 sits in the middle between my JPX 8 & 9.

I made a chart with lofts and distances I hit with both sets. What I've found that work's the best is to look at each iron as one iron stronger plus. E.g., a JGR 7 is really a 6+ or strong 6. Of course the PW2 is really a PW in loft, so that's the only club I don't play as strong.

FYI, the set AW which most will not have is amazing. It looks completely different then the rest of the set. Narrower sole with no cavity or vibration plate, just a one piece forging with an extended flange. A must get if you have the JGR HFs.
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Then is this why the Epic Star irons are almost 1 club stronger across the board than the standard Epic lofts? I guess it makes some sense but weird when you have PW1/PW2/AW. I actually really liked the lofts on Ben Hogan clubs, or just go to numbers. Make it 3-11I or 4-12I. Would make it simpler for my pea brain.
 
mancest said:
Then is this why the Epic Star irons are almost 1 club stronger across the board than the standard Epic lofts?
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The Stars were originally JDM only according to TourSpec. A 20.5° 5 iron is insane; so is the Star pricing; obscene!
 
baddog said:
The Stars were originally JDM only according to TourSpec. A 20.5° 5 iron is insane; so is the Star pricing; obscene!
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I thought my 23* 5I in the Cobra Ones was crazy, but it made sense with the shorter shaft... 20.5* at that length is really like a 3I
 
Anyone still playing these? My hack self is contemplating. Anyone try to shorten, or did you leave it alone. Thanks!
 
kuyaariel said:
Anyone still playing these? My hack self is contemplating. Anyone try to shorten, or did you leave it alone. Thanks!
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Still playing mine and I did not alter them - They are so sweet when you hit them flush - Like Butta'
They plenty of forgiveness to them as well.
 
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thanks!
 
baddog said:
Recent posts are missing the point on JGR Hybrid Forged on iron numbering, lofts and shaft lengths.

The number one thing is the JDM iron numbering. This is how they like their numbering in Japan and Bridgestone refuses to have alternate stampings for other markets like the USA. I never thought this would bother me, but I continue to find it irksome. If Mizuno can alternate stamp, no reason Bridgestone cannot do it either. So a 7 is a 6 on USA scale.
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I fully understand this and did when I owned JGRs. I also owned another JDM set that was stamped the same way. The non-American numbering system is in part why I sold both sets. Like you, I found it "irksome" particularly when I hit the ball over the back of the green because I thought I'd pulled a 7 when I really pulled a 6.

Yeah, it's just "add one" but I have enough things to think about on the course. I don't need the hassle of one more because of a stupid stamping on a golf club. I'm sure if I played enough rounds with them, I'd eventually get used to it.

Having said all of this, the JGRs are a really good and unique set of clubs. They look good, sound good, and perform well.
 
What was the other JDM set you owned?

ryebread said:
I fully understand this and did when I owned JGRs. I also owned another JDM set that was stamped the same way. The non-American numbering system is in part why I sold both sets. Like you, I found it "irksome" particularly when I hit the ball over the back of the green because I thought I'd pulled a 7 when I really pulled a 6.

Yeah, it's just "add one" but I have enough things to think about on the course. I don't need the hassle of one more because of a stupid stamping on a golf club. I'm sure if I played enough rounds with them, I'd eventually get used to it.

Having said all of this, the JGRs are a really good and unique set of clubs. They look good, sound good, and perform well.
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Man, I'm seriously considering these. Maybe reshaft with DGR400's I have laying around, make it half an inch shorter, add some lead at the end to compensate for the swingweight... What do you guys think?
 
kuyaariel said:
What was the other JDM set you owned?
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Maruman Shuttles. The Shuttle is the single best 5 iron I have played, but the further down one went in the set, the larger the head's got, and the less I liked them. If they were all as good as that 5 iron though, I'd still be playing them, regardless of what was stamped on them.
 
ryebread said:
Maruman Shuttles. The Shuttle is the single best 5 iron I have played, but the further down one went in the set, the larger the head's got, and the less I liked them. If they were all as good as that 5 iron though, I'd still be playing them, regardless of what was stamped on them.
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You mean 4i ;)
 
I'm bumping this to the top because I've had several recent conversations about these clubs. If you are looking for a really good looking SGI set and don't mind subtracting one from the number stamped on the sole, then these are about as good as it gets.

I've had these in the Recoils, but now have them in the stiff Zelos 8. I surprisingly (given my history of graphite shafted irons) prefer the Zelos.

I'm also bumping this for two additional reasons:
1) The supply is drying up. Prices on them are moving back up. If you want a set, then pick them up.
2) The replacement seems to be the HF1s. Those are considerably more expensive, but seemingly offer less "tech" (no undercut slot, no TPU insert). The looks are a preference thing, though I will admit the new model looks awesome. The JDM stamping issue exists in the HF1s as well.
 
erock9174 said:
Definitely not offended in any way.
To answer your question about ease of use. I have hit the JGR 7i against my Altitude 7i. Given the JGR is 3/4' longer and 5* stronger the Altitude was much easier to hit for me, others mileage may vary.
I have also hit the JGR 8i which is more comparable to my Altitude 7i and those were near equal.

I am a data driven guy being an Auditor by day.
I dug up the specs of some of SGI irons on the market.

All are pretty similar other than the JGR being an outlier. I wouldn't even call the JGR as having jacked lofts.
I understand the term "jacked lofts" to mean a club is built with a pretty common length but the loft is less by a degree or two.
I would classify the JGR as being mismarked. Lets face it, the JGR 7i at 26* and 38" is a strong 6i in most sets both in loft and shaft length.
Like I said in my original post, I understand this so if I were to ever game the JGR's I would start my set at a 7i instead of at my normal 6i and I'd be fine with that.
But as I were testing them I'd be hitting the JGR 8i against all the other 7i's on the market to get a more comparative analysis.

--------Altitude------Gmax---------JPXHD----------Bertha OS--------JGR
7iron-- 31*/37.25"---30.5*/37"----32*/36.75-----30*/37.25"-----26*/38"
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Looks like the Rogue X irons are in the same "Boat" as the JGR's when it comes to lofts
Interesting the club length is more like the other compared irons.

#7 27° 37.125"
#8 31.5° 36.50"
 
markm778 said:
Looks like the Rogue X irons are in the same "Boat" as the JGR's when it comes to lofts
Interesting the club length is more like the other compared irons.

#7 27° 37.125"
#8 31.5° 36.50"
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Haven't spent much time digging into the Rogue X info. But I would agree with your thoughts.

My G700 6i at 26* is getting close to the point of not having enough descent angle to stick to greens. That is the same issue I had when gaming the XR Steelhead 6i on the course. Unless I bounced it on it was not holding.
The added distance is nice and all but the lower spin and launch angle could hurt some in the longer irons.
 
In the end, I am increasingly convinced that the most important things for irons are:
- Consitency of landing location
- Desent angle
- Consistent gaps

Get those three things and the rest takes care of itself. The other specs, stamping, etc. are all pretty arbitrary. I also suspect that most amateurs (myself included) would score better if they had a “carry” cheat sheet and picked their club accordingly.
 
Nice set of all hybrids...Adams did that some years back...these look better than the Adams. I bet they hit really well.
 
GolfLivesMatter said:
Nice set of all hybrids...Adams did that some years back...these look better than the Adams. I bet they hit really well.
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I've had a number of hybrid based sets from Adams, including ones with the transitional hybrid clubs. The JGRs are quite a bit nicer clubs both visually, but also in sound and feel.
 
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