shaft cutting question

[syndicate559]

I just scored a gently used Amp Cell Offset driver on the bay for my 13-year-old son, who is starting his first year of junior high golf. He's only 5'1" right now, so I'm already thinking I'll need to cut an inch or so off of the shaft. He's playing a mens' set of irons/hybrids and he's able to choke down on the grips a little bit and hit them very well. The driver is the only club I'm really thinking I'll need to shorten up a bit at this point. I bought one with the senior flex shaft. I know that cutting it down will raise the stiffness of the shaft somewhat. Is there anything else I need to consider besides that? I've never cut a golf shaft before, but assuming it's not too difficult to lop an inch off and re-grip. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Hawk]

It'll change the swingweight quite a bit, but I don't know that it'll really matter for him.

 

[ddec]

not difficult but like Hawk said it will change the swingweight. Now for your son that might not be a real issue. If it is you can always manipulate it to get the SW back up.

 

[syndicate559]

It'll change the swingweight quite a bit, but I don't know that it'll really matter for him.

not difficult but like Hawk said it will change the swingweight. Now for your son that might not be a real issue. If it is you can always manipulate it to get the SW back up.

In other words, it's going to make the head feel heavier with the shorter shaft?

 

[Hawk]

The opposite actually.

 

[JonD]

Outside of the aforementioned SW concerns, it's pretty easy. Make sure that you measure twice and cut once! With graphite, I use a couple of tight wraps of masking tape on the shaft that protects your cut line in ~1" in both directions. Then cut with a sharp PVC hacksaw. I've heard that drop saws work well if you have one of those but I've only ever used PVC hacksaws. Good luck!

 

[Hawk]

I think it's 3SW points for every 1/2 inch of shaft.

 

[syndicate559]

The opposite actually.

Interesting. I think you're right, though. It probably won't matter that much and might even be a benefit if it feels a bit lighter.

Outside of the aforementioned SW concerns, it's pretty easy. Make sure that you measure twice and cut once! With graphite, I use a couple of tight wraps of masking tape on the shaft that protects your cut line in ~1" in both directions. Then cut with a sharp PVC hacksaw. I've heard that drop saws work well if you have one of those but I've only ever used PVC hacksaws. Good luck!

Thanks for the tip. That's basically how I've always cut hockey sticks and was figuring I'd do the same thing. Might need to get a new blade for the hacksaw, though...

 

[JonD]

Interesting. I think you're right, though. It probably won't matter that much and might even be a benefit if it feels a bit lighter.



Thanks for the tip. That's basically how I've always cut hockey sticks and was figuring I'd do the same thing. Might need to get a new blade for the hacksaw, though...

Yeah. blades are cheap and the difference is noticeable. The only time I've had one fray on me at all (still wasn't a big deal) was with an older blade.

 

[VA. Vince]

The shaft will be stiffer but you can always add some lead tape to the head to bring the spine and weight back to where he feels comfortable. If that is needed, I do not think it will be.

 

[Golf 'N Gator]

Butt cutting the shaft will not change the flex. Shafts are made to be butt trimmed. With graphite shafts, be sure to wrap the end of the shaft with masking tape before cutting.

 

[Johnny mojo]

If you have a Dremel and a cut-off wheel, that is PRIMO! Use tape as suggested and you will get a good clean cut. If you don't have a Dremel, the hack should work fine.

Good luck