THP Auto Repair Shop

[billyh]

I am not @J.B. Cobb III but that sounds to me to be a control arm link bushing, or sway bar bushing if your truck has one. But either way, it sounds like a bushing related to the control arm connection, which is why you hear it when at the max travel.

@Parrot
That’s where I would start looking. With it being a 2wd truck it sounds like upper or lower control arm bushings more so that sway bar links. Does it do it only with the wheel turned?

 

[YukonLiving]

Welcome to the THP Auto Repair thread! Here you can ask questions and receive answers from certified mechanics. I will also upload videos, general tips, and other great service information. Any other techs/mechanics/instructors please feel free to add content or answer questions too! I know @billyh and @2BFAST should be able to provide a wealth of automotive knowledge!

Bio- @J.B. Cobb III I am currently the night automotive instructor at Cape Fear CC in downtown Wilmington, NC. I teach the 2nd year advanced classes. I also teach the NC Safety and OBD II inspection classes. After growing up restoring old cars and working on tractor-trailers for my parents’ trucking company, I spent 2 years in Nashville, TN attending Nashville Auto-Diesel College where I received an associate’s degree in auto-diesel tech, welding, high performance engines, and business. I was hired by Ford Heavy Duty Trucks as a diesel mechanic and then transitioned into teaching high school and now college. I am a Ford/ASE master tech and have numerous certifications.

Through the school, I have access to tools, service manuals, wiring schematics, OEM publications, etc. If you need any help or have a general automotive question, please post it in the thread and someone will help you!

This is a great idea for a thread! Much appreciated!!

 

[Parrot]

@Parrot
That’s where I would start looking. With it being a 2wd truck it sounds like upper or lower control arm bushings more so that sway bar links. Does it do it only with the wheel turned?

Yes.

 

[WLG1952]

This thread will be very useful for those who use it. Thanks for adding it.

I used a similar thread on another forum. Saved me about $2000.00 for, what turned out to be a simple repair.

 

[ozzman]

I have a 2004 GTO and a full new suspension to install, shocks, springs, poly bushings all around. I have all of the parts and was quoted $1900 for install. Seem reasonable? I know this car is a pain in the ass when you need to lower the rear cradle...

 

[gonyr]

Surprisingly all my vehicles are currently ok. But this is a great idea for a thread. I'm sure I'll be back in here at some point. Thanks for being so generous with your time.

 

[billyh]

Yes.

Without being present I’m still leaning at control arm bushings. If it’s not super troublesome and you don’t need it fixed right now, over the next couple months check uneven tire wear. That’s going to be a pretty dead give away what it could be. With it only happening with the wheel turned it doesn’t seem like a ball joint or anything too serious.

 

[billyh]

I have a 2004 GTO and a full new suspension to install, shocks, springs, poly bushings all around. I have all of the parts and was quoted $1900 for install. Seem reasonable? I know this car is a pain in the ass when you need to lower the rear cradle...

Is that parts and labor or just labor and are they giving you an alignment with that?

 

[GraniteRoost]

This is an awesome thread! Great to have some knowledgeable auto folks on the forum.

 

[ozzman]

Is that parts and labor or just labor and are they giving you an alignment with that?

Labor and I'm pretty sure the 4 wheel alignment

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[billyh]

Labor and I'm pretty sure the 4 wheel alignment

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Ouch. That’s pretty steep. Let me get back to you on some labor times and see if they’re raking you over the coals. Looking at your location I’m not too surprised, but that still seems a bit high, even for Chicago.

 

[ozzman]

Ouch. That’s pretty steep. Let me get back to you on some labor times and see if they’re raking you over the coals. Looking at your location I’m not too surprised, but that still seems a bit high, even for Chicago.

Estimated up to 16 hours of work.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

Ok. I'm gonna try to get through as much as I can tonight. Please bare with me.

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

Ok - This might be fun!
I have a 2017 Chevy Imapla Premier Edition.
Every time I start up, the MyLink Infotainment screen flashes that Program Installed as failed.
It looks like it's trying to do 2 updates because it shows up 4 time.
Car works fine as well as MyLink.

Any idea what this is?
Once I get back in my car, I'll add a screen shot.

View attachment 9034975

What You'll Learn

You’ll learn how Over-the-Air vehicle software updates work and what you need to do to download the software and complete the installation. You’ll also learn your connectivity options and how to accept or decline an update.
How It Works

The basics
• Your vehicle requires Internet connectivity to download and install vehicle software updates. This can be accessed through the vehicle’s built-in 4G LTE connection1, if equipped. Or you may use a secure Wi-Fi® hotspot, such as a mobile device hotspot, home network or public network. Applicable data rates may apply.
• You must have accepted the connected vehicle User Terms and Conditions and Privacy Statement for your vehicle to be eligible for Over-the-Air vehicle software updates.
• Update notifications will be sent to your vehicle, and you can also manually check for them using the infotainment system2.
• There are two steps to getting the update: software download and installation.
• If you have any questions or concerns about a vehicle software update, you can press your blue OnStar®3 button to contact an Advisor or call 888.4.ONSTAR. You may also contact your dealer for assistance.

Software download
• You can continue to use your vehicle normally during a software download.
• Downloads automatically pause and resume if you turn off your vehicle or lose connectivity (e.g., if you pull into a parking garage).
• Download times will vary, depending on the size of an update and your wireless signal strength (4G LTE connection or external/brought-in network).
• You can check the progress of a vehicle software download in the “Settings” menu in your infotainment system. Look for either of the following (steps may vary by vehicle):
• Under the "System" tab, go to the "Vehicle Software" section and look for "Updates."
• Choose "Software Information" and then look for "System Update."
• In some cases, after a download is complete and an Over-the-Air installation is pending, your radio and audio may stay on for up to five minutes after you exit the vehicle; this is normal.

Software installation
• Once a download is complete, you’ll be prompted to install the update the next time you turn your vehicle on or shift it into PARK. You can also choose to be reminded later, schedule or decline the installation.
• If you choose to decline an update, the update will cancel and you may need to take your vehicle to a dealer if you wish to perform the update at a later time.
• You’ll be asked to put your vehicle in PARK and turn off the engine to initiate most updates.
• While an update is being performed, you can’t drive your vehicle and the infotainment system may remain active for the duration of the update. For this reason, park in a safe and secure location before initiating any update.
• Generally, software installation is expected to take 20 minutes or less.
• You’re not required to stay in your vehicle during an update.
• If you leave your vehicle during an update, close your windows and lock your doors. Don’t lock occupants inside.
• It is normal for your infotainment system to remain active during an update. You may also notice one or more system resets during an installation process.
• If you decide to remain in your vehicle, you can check the progress of a vehicle software installation in the “Settings” menu in your infotainment system. Look for either of the following (steps may vary by vehicle):
• Under the "System" tab, go to the "Vehicle Software" section and look for "Updates."
• Choose "Software Information" and then look for "System Update."





There are NUMEROUS tsbs(technical service bulletins) on the 2016-17 Impala! Many have to do with the infotainment/On-Star systems. I found TSB-17-NA-025 that addresses your concern. My suggestion, try to update the system following the videos I uploaded, make sure you have a strong wi-fi connection. If this doesn't fix the concern, I would disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. Be careful, this will reset the vehicle to factory specs and might lock the infotaiment/radio system. Lastly, if none of these fixes your problem, I would take it to the dealership and have them perform the TSB. It only charges 0.6 hours, so it shouldn't be a big strain on your wallet. OR, keep driving it and ignore it!

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

Thanks for starting this thread!

At basically idle speed, when I turn the steering wheel left to the stop, I get a clunk and a feeling like I've driven over something from the right front wheel. It happens in reverse and drive. This is a 15 Tahoe, 2WD.

I need a little more information. First, idle speed? Are we talking sitting still and the vehicle idling 600-1000 rpms? or under 20 mph? 2nd-The clunk only happens when you turn left, but feels like it originates from the passenger side? 3rd- It happens is reverse/drive, what about when the trans is in neutral? I'm trying to narrow down is it front suspension or maybe drivetrain related.

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

@Parrot is the vehicle lifted or modified in any way?

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

@Parrot look at the information in TSB PIT5533C

 

[Luchnia]

Great thread and very considerate to do this!

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

I have a 2004 GTO and a full new suspension to install, shocks, springs, poly bushings all around. I have all of the parts and was quoted $1900 for install. Seem reasonable? I know this car is a pain in the ass when you need to lower the rear cradle...

These are the times to repair the suspension. 6.2 for the front, 7.8 for the back. So, labor wise, you should be around $600 for the front. What did they quote the parts for? $1300 worth?
PARTS AND LABOR
Labor
SKILL
WARRANTY
STANDARD
Overhaul/Rebuild
Front Suspension
One Side
B
0.0
3.2
Both Sides
B
0.0
6.2
Rear Suspension
One Side
B
0.0
4.0
Both Sides
B
0.0
7.8
Lubricate
Chassis, Lubricate
C
0.0
0.7

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

Just because most people do not know how to "properly" jump start a car....watch this video.

 

[Parrot]

@J.B. Cobb III I’ll answer here:

First, idle speed? Are we talking sitting still and the vehicle idling 600-1000 rpms? or under 20 mph? Think backing out of the carport speed or making a 3 point turn speed. Less than 10 mph.

2nd-The clunk only happens when you turn left, but feels like it originates from the passenger side? Y

3rd- It happens is reverse/drive, what about when the trans is in neutral? Haven’t tried it in neutral.

@Parrot is the vehicle lifted or modified in any way?

No lift or modification.

Thanks, my man.

 

[Parrot]

@Parrot look at the information in TSB PIT5533C

Pop, I guess could describe it.

 

[DNice26]

I have a problem I’ll throw out there:

Volvo S80, 2010 V8
In the winter months, when I first start the car I get a whiney sound from the engine that slowly settles as the car warms up. In the summer, there is basically little to no sound. Brought to Volvo and they suspect it is the rack and pinion (spelling?) and told me it would be $7k to fix. No thanks…walked out of there quickly. Local mechanic thinks it could be, may be the power stearing motor or pump.

Any thoughts?

Thank you in advance.

Love the idea of this thread.

 

[Thrillbilly Jim]

Pop, I guess could describe it.

I’m a firm believer in doing the quickest and cheapest thing first, especially if I’m guessing. Torque those bolts that the TSB lists first and let’s see if that helps or not.

 

[Parrot]

I’m a firm believer in doing the quickest and cheapest thing first, especially if I’m guessing. Torque those bolts that the TSB lists first and let’s see if that helps or not.

I may be the least mechanically inclined person on this board. I’m afraid I wouldn’t have any peace of mind that it was done correctly even if I could figure out what the TSB wanted me to do.